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Need Steering Intermediate Shaft and Left Front Strut

17K views 7 replies 7 participants last post by  chevyguy8893 
#1 ·
Dealer says my 2008 Malibu LS with 47K on it needs a intermediate steering shaft and a left front strut.

Are these hard to do?

Being a decent backyard mechanic with access to a lift, I would like to try to do it myself.

Any advice?

Thanks,
 
#2 ·
struts are hard to do, i did it once with a cheap spring compressor someone loaned me without telling me it had issues and nearly killed myself in the process. it is possible, but unless you really know what you are doing and have someone to help you that knows what they are doing, then do not do it. also i recommend that you replace struts in pairs, front pair, rear pair. access to a lift would help alot. also you need a alignmnet right away to prevent uneven tire wear

as for the intermediate steering shaft, what is exactly wrong with it? is it worn and need to be replaced or does it need to be lubed up. on impalas and monte carlos and other Wbodys i know it looses lube and starts to make clunking sounds. lubing it is easy. removing it is easy on the wbody and might not be hard looking at my brothers 4cyl malibu

Alan
 
#3 ·
Exactly, if it's just making a clunking sound don't replace it just yet. Pull the lower half away from the upper half and grease the heck out of both ends and put it back together and see if it goes away. I have to do this to my Silverado every six months or so, if it needs it or not.
 
#5 ·
I know this thread is a little old but is this the lower and upper halves your talking about? And I also wanted to note that we have %100 plastic gas pedals. Wtf to that!
The piece of interest is the shaft going through the firewall. Yours is the old style, replaced by a painted shaft which is much more quiet. The plastic gas pedal, yeah, okay it's plastic. There is some incredibly durable/strong plastic made which is lighter and just as durable as metal in uses such as this. I can't say I've ever seen one break in normal use. Intake manifolds have been plastic since the 90's on some engines.
 
#7 ·
i know its strong stuff. i just thought it was funny that it was all plastic. i just came from a TJ Wrangler so this is a little different for me. so this newer shaft? is it just something i have to get from the dealer? is there a was to make this one quieter? because it seems to pop at least twice every time i turn the wheel on acceleration or heavy breaking or bumps turning that is. and what year did they start with the new shaft? so i know what part to order. and i appreciate all the info.
 
#8 ·
There is a lube kit available from the dealer that you remove the shaft from the steering column and lube the intermediate shaft. This is the cheaper method, but the noise will come back probably within the year after lubing it. Although, a new intermediate shaft is over $100 and, for some, can be a pain to install. If you try lubing DO NOT spin the steering wheel with the intermediate shaft disconnected.

Condition 1

Some customers may comment on a clunk noise heard and felt in the steering wheel while driving at slow speeds and turning. The clunk noise may appear to be directly in front of the driver. Hitting a bump while turning can produce the clunk noise. Sometimes the noise may be duplicated when the vehicle is sitting still and the steering wheel is turned 90 degrees in either direction before initially centering the steering wheel. The clunk noise may be caused by a slip/stick condition between the inner and outer components of the intermediate shaft.

Correction 1

Lubricate the intermediate shaft with steering column shaft lubrication kit, P/N 26098237.
1. From inside the vehicle, remove the instrument panel insulator panel – left side panel to gain access to the intermediate shaft.
2. Remove the intermediate shaft to steering column attachment bolt.
3. Remove the intermediate shaft from the steering column.
4. Extend the intermediate shaft all the way. Using the intermediate shaft grease kit, P/N 26098237, inject the grease into the gap between the inner shaft and the outer shaft as you are collapsing the shaft. This will draw the grease into the shaft.
5. Cycle the shaft up and down several times to distribute the grease.
Important: Remove original thread locker material from the bolt and apply Loctite® 242 (or equivalent) to the threads of the bolt and reinstall intermediate shaft bolt.
6. Install the intermediate shaft to the column.

Tighten
• For electronic power steering, tighten the bolt to 49 N·m (36 lb ft).
• For hydraulic power steering, tighten the bolt to 62 N·m (46 lb ft).

7. Wipe off any excessive grease on the intermediate shaft to avoid damage from drips on the carpet.
8. Install the instrument panel insulator panel – left side.
9. Verify that the noise is no longer present.


If lubing doesn't work then the intermediate shaft can be repositioned on the steering gear. This can be tricky and if you don't feel comfortable doing something like this I would just take it to a shop. In the end it always seemed like I replaced the intermediate shaft. Also, I believe they only sell the new design shaft anymore.

Condition 2

There may be interference between the clamp and the steering gear input shaft. The clamp is beveled and if forced down on the input shaft too hard, it may cause a loose fit with the intermediate shaft to input shaft joint.

Correction 2

To correct this condition, perform the following steps:
1. Remove the intermediate shaft pinch bolt at the steering gear end.
2. Install a new bolt, GM P/N 07845238, but do not tighten the bolt at this time.

3. Pry the clamp up using a pry bar to position the bolt into the upper part of the groove as shown above. This will position the clamp off the bevel.
4. While keeping the clamp in the upper position, tighten the bolt.

Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 49 N·m (36 lb ft).
5. Verify that the clunk noise is no longer present.
 
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