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Remote Start/keyless entry problems. '05 malibu

60K views 27 replies 18 participants last post by  mfgorilla 
#1 ·
Greetings all,

Yes, yet another remote start problem thread.
I've been searching around the forum and just read a lot of posts about remote start issues but can't find the info Im looking for.

Looking at getting an '05 malibu LS cheap from a friend who sells used cars, It has a factory installed remote start setup (listed in the options on the window sticker); however the the lock/unlock & remote start buttons on the key fob don't work.

The remote trunk release works sometimes when really close, as does the panic button but nothing else no matter how close to the car. There are 2 key fobs for it and they both do the same thing. The power locks work normally from the DS door. No SES light, etc. Everything else works except this.

All of the power lock and remote start options are enabled in the D.I.C.

I've heard such things as the fob module going bad/ maybe a fuse but I would imagine other things wouldn't function if it were a fuse. Has anyone heard of this specific problem? or have more ideas as to what the prob is?

Thanks in advance for any help
 
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#4 ·
I replaced the battery (cr2032) in the one fob and now it stopped working. Im guessing these have to be programed somehow? (the manual just says to replace the battery, it mentions nothing of reprogramming)

The other still works with the panic button and truck release only.

I double checked the 7.5amp, Remote keyless entry fuse in the trunk and it is good.
 
#5 ·
When I changed batts on our fobs, Wife's fob stopped working soon afterwards. Found that the solder points on the battery bracket came loose. I soldered them back (really easy if you've ever done any soldering).

15 mins and it was as good as new.

You shouldn't have to reprogram the fobs after a battery change.
 
#27 ·
Curious: does the fob depend on the points where the battery bracket is connected (that is, does the bracket conduct electricity from the battery? My thought is no because the contact point seems to be underneath the battery, but I'm not an electrician, so...)? If the battery were held in place with the contact point in some other way, would the key fob work (new battery, cleaned the circuit board with electrical grade 2-propanol, all other points seem connected)?

(If you haven't guessed, I'm having the same problem with my key fob; I have a 2010 Chevy Cobalt.)
 
#8 ·
J894 - The first time I replaced the battery in one of my FOB's I noticec that the clip that holds the battery to the ckt. board actually came loose from the board. Fortunately I have a good soldering iron and was able to tack it back down and make the connection. On my 2nd FOB I noted that the solder joint was cracked, not completely broken. Therefore when the FOB was snapped back together it made contact and worked intermittantly. By 'reheating' the cracked solder joint I got the 2nd FOB working again. These seem to be very low quality devices...for something that sells for ~$100 + programming.
 
#9 ·
just wanted to update this thread with a question

I had a similar problem with the battery bracket being broken (looking at positive side of battery the right connector was completely out of it solder joint) I reflowed the solder and I have the same results: trunk and panic work, locks do not with the acception of holding down the unlock button and only the drive door unlocking

this is in my 2007 Malibu LT with only 32,500 miles

any sugegstion beside having a dealer look at it?
 
#11 · (Edited)
You probably need to press unlock once for driver door only, second time to unlock all others. On mine I can program it through the DIC to do that or just unlock all on first press. I have it on two presses.

I used to work as a locksmith and we sold and programmed the remotes as well as transponder keys, etc. One thing you can check is to disassemble the fob. It simply snaps apart. Remove the battery, then the circuit board, then the button membrane. With the battery out (Important!) use warm water and a little dish detergent on a soft or medium toothbrush and clean the fingers where the buttons make contact. Rinse while rubbing with your finger to get any left over detergent off. They get dirty when they're in pockets or around food fights. Then clean the black buttons on the underside of the membrane. Dry completely. No moisture. Period. When dry, reassemble and test. Doesn't cost but a few minutes and works most of the time. This method works on wireless phones and other membrane-style circuits, too. Just be careful to keep from reassembling and powering up with any moisture present.
 
#10 ·
I had my remotes go bad. Some of the buttons stopped working. I guess its a problem with a lot of the newer GM remotes. After a while the buttons wear down or something. If your lock button doesnt work then your remote start won't work either since you need to lock your car twice with the remote to initiate the remote start feature. I ended up fixing my remote by buying a fix for it at keylessfix.com . Still working great. By the way. If you have any check engine lights on then your remote start is also automatically disabled by the car.
 
#12 ·
remote was dead, was replaced under warrenty...

but excellent tips for other readers!

BTW, key blanks from "usautolock" on ebay are crap... not oem, and 2 seperate "chips" failed to program, even had dealer go over the car, factory key programed fine
 
#13 ·
First off, thanks for all of the posts - they helped solve most of my problems. I'm down to just one left...hopefully I can get a few more tips to finish this up!

2007 Chevy Malibu LS

Background:
Keyless entry stopped working. I took it apart, soldered the metallic battery bracket back on (it had broken off), got a new battery, and cleaned off the rubber & rear-side electrical contacts with isopropyl alcohol. Each thing had a positive effect: soldering got it to partially work, a new battery made it more consistent, and the cleaning made it much more consistent.

The big problem now: the lock button doesn't work at all. It never worked when we bought the car used 1 1/2 years ago, but I figure I'm on a roll. I looked over the circuit board and didn't see any obvious broken contacts.

Any ideas on how I could fix this?

Thanks!
 
#15 ·
a lil old of a thread I know. But I just fixed my two keyless remotes for my 06 'bu LT with remote start.

I found a few vids on youtube on the easy and mostly free way to fix these gm keyless remotes. Basically, clean the rubber and gold contacts with rubbing alcohol on a q-tip. Then super glue small piece of tin foil to the rubber fingers that would touch the gold button contacts when you push a button. Mine had 5 including the remote start. I folded the tin foil twice, making 4 layers, for each button. I got all the buttons back to the same working state they were when I got the car in 08!! And my remote start distance is good too!!

Not bad for free. I did check out the keylessfix.com website, and it looks like an awesome product for not much money too.

Did the same thing for my 05 Trailblazer LT's one remote I have. Still pondering whether to buy another new keyFOB and key, as wife and I are tired of sharing one ;)
 
#16 · (Edited)
BINGO! misterhyde hit it on the head with the tin foil.

Since this thread is the first thing google pulls up I figure I'll add a post for posterity.

The reason these fobs tend to stop working is that rubber doesn't conduct electricity. It is usually the most used buttons that go first. The underside of the rubber remote button is supposed to have a conductive layer that shorts the little gaps between the circuit board's gold contact fingers.

However, the conductive coating doesn't stick to the rubber very well at all and after a few hundred button presses, each of which scrapes the conductive coating against the board, the conductive coating gets worn off the underside of the button creating a sporadic contact patch and with a few more hundred presses you end up with a seemingly dead button because there is no more conductive coating and your just pressing rubber against the circuit board. (Note that cleaning the underside of the button may actually remove more of the coating making the problem worse, though dirt will hinder conductivity as well.)

Even a new fob will eventually develop the same issues - and is expensive. I have had six of these fobs all develop this same problem.

The hands down best, cheapest, and most reliable fix is to simply take a single thin piece of aluminum foil cut it to be smaller than the button's foot print and glue it to the underside of the rubber button. Silicone, Super glue, Rubber cement, phlegm, or anything else that even slightly sticks to rubber should work for this. You just need something metallic/conductive to touch across the circuit board's contacts for it to register a button push.

If the foil is too thick it can make the fob a bit touchy where almost no pressure will cause it to transmit. I personally would rather have it work too well, than not at all.

Since the panic button almost never gets used, it in turn almost always still works. If your fobs panic button doesn't work its probably something else. Either not paired, dead battery, or I have also had one with a loose battery clip aswell and re-soldering the clip is the way to go for fixing that issue.

Hope that helps someone.
 
#20 ·
BINGO! misterhyde hit it on the head with the tin foil.
Years and YEARS of experience tells me that the tin foil step is not needed in about 95% of the cases. TV remotes are made the same way. Most low end cash register key pads use a similar technology.

For things that human beings touch with their hands, the enemy is body oil.
Not a joke.

A thorough cleaning with alchohol and a Q tip usually is all that is needed......but you need to clean the contact point on the circuit board AND the little conductive rubber pads that make contact too. Some low pressure compressed air helps with the cleaning. Sometimes two passes are necessary.

Those things really don't wear out from "normal" daily useage.
Cash registers, OTOH, that get thousands of pushes in a day actually can wear out over a few years time.
 
#19 ·
Coltonis,

That was a great post! Thanks for coming by and sharing that bit of insight.
 
#22 ·
Buy new rubber keypads on ebay; I tried the foil pads, helped, but the solution for me were new
GM REMOTE KEY KEYLESS FOB REPAIR REPLACEMENT BUTTON PAD CHEVY BUICK PONTIAC

these are $4.99 with free shipping from mickeyjo 123; Item number: 200724254051

remotes now work better than new!
 
#25 ·
I have had the Button Pad from keylessfix.com in my remote for 2 years now and the thing still works as good as ever. :) :) I took it out the other day to see if it looks worn or anything. It looks the same as it did when I first installed it. It has lasted longer then the new remote that the car came with. For $10 it makes a lot more sense then trying to superglue some foil to the buttons (which i tried before i got the keylessfix pad)

My friend bought the same keylessfix pad at the GM Dealership. Apparently they are stocking them too.
 
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