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High Mounted Stop Lamp Intermittent issue Solved!

24K views 41 replies 11 participants last post by  Nexus1155 
#1 · (Edited)
I had intermittent issue with my HMSL for 2-3 years. It worked on and off. I was trying to remove it one time but it came back to work when I was in the middle of the process. So I knew that something was loose. This time the problem persistent so I decided to remove and troubleshoot the issue. I was able to light up the lamp with a 9v battery and simulated the issue.
What I found was the 2-prong male connector at the stop lamp was loose. Apparently when the female wiring connector move, it triggered the issue. So my solution is to wedge the female connector to the housing with toothpick. This seems to work as the lamp no long went on and off when I moved it.
Please see the picture for the solution and the video below for the test
New video by Ho\a Nguyen

UPDATE: This is the update after one year and a half of this post. The toothpick jam failed 6 month later. I had to redo it, using a piece of plastic, which has lasted for a year as of this time. So use other material more resisting to deterioration to temperature and time, such as plastic or metal. Good luck (07/2016).
Quick update (02/2021): Last fix is still working strong. So use plastic material for your wedge
 

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#4 · (Edited)
Electrical tape did not work in my test. Tried that and it failed the test. The source of the issue is the loosing male connector of the lamp. The small gap between the wiring connector and the lamp connector housing allows the movement to the loosing lamp male connector. That gap is where I put the tooth pick, to prevent that movement.
Here is the video on the test
https://goo.gl/photos/cByMWjVgwWhTJUjM9
 
#3 ·
I notice in the second image that the retainer on the CHMSL is missing, presumably the result of your hands, but that is probably not part of the original cause, right?

Interesting that you found it buried at the light itself after so many years and miles of aggravation! Thanks for sharing. If this ever happens to another owner, whether Gen7 or other generation, this could be very helpful.
 
#5 ·
I notice in the second image that the retainer on the CHMSL is missing, ....
I removed that retainer to check if the hot and cold female had anything wrong. Also attempted to remove the wiring from the housing but did not have the tool. I put the retainer back later.
 
#6 ·
Great post! My 08 has an intermittent as well. I have seen that it's a pain to get to the lamp. Although I don't know the exact procedure to get access, I will attempt this soon. I saw another Malibu on the road with no light as well (coincidence? Not!). Anyhow, thanks for the post.
 
#7 · (Edited)
yes I believe this is a common issue, not unique to my case.
It is not hard. But it needs some patience and care. After took it out three times, I become familiar with the procedure and did it in a matter of 10 minutes or less to get the lamp out. But the first time, it took me more than 2 hours.
The PITA for me was disconnecting the wiring connector to take out the whole Rear Trim Panel. That took me more than 30 minutes because the connector was stuck very badly. I have a weak hand, and had to operate in a small space.

The PDF procedure file is attached.
NOTE: To avoid draining down the battery (as i did), turn off the Dom light or disconnect the battery.
Here is the high level of the steps
1. Remove the Rear Seat Cushion: just grasp the bottom and pull it up. Take it out of the car. (Page 4 of the PDF)
2. Fold the Rear Back Seat Cushion down. You might want to put some clothes between the cushion and the Seat frame, to avoid getting the seat back cushion dirty when it was folded down. It bears your weight because you have to seat on it to work.
NOTE: there is no need to take out the Back Seat Cushion. Just fold them down.
3. Remove the Left and Right Rear Corner upper Garnish Molding: Pull outward from the top, then pull its front side upward, and slide it forward to get it out. There is a rubber to hold it, called “tether”. Just unlock that “tether” to take it out. (Page 1 of PDF)
5. Unscrew the Rear Seat Back bolt: 4 of them. (Page 2 of PDF)
6. Pull out the metal bar the above 4 screws hold, to access the two plastic retainer that that hold the Rear Windows Shelf Trim Panel. These retainer are at the lower left and right corner. (Page 5 of the PDF). Just use a Flat head screw driver to pry them out.
7. The Lower left and Lower right corner of the Trim panel are locked by a plastic molding tab. Pull that Tab out, then lift up the corner of Rear trim panel to unlock it. This is the tricky step.
8. Disconnecting the wiring connector to the lamp. The connector is located driver side. Lift up the Trim panel driver side, you will see it. You need to pry up the lock tab with a small screw driver when pulling out the connector. This is a step took me 30 minutes because the connector was stuck very hard.
9. Slide the Seat Belt thru the gap of the trim panel, to unattach it from the panel (Page 5 of PDF)
10. After that, you will be able to take the Rear Trim Panel out. Just lift it up and move it forward. (Page 6 of the PDF)
11. There are three screw to hold the lamp to the Trim Panel. Remove these 3 screws the lamp will come out. (Page 6 of the PDF)
When I have a chance I will post some pictures that I took.Good luck
 

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#9 · (Edited)
Hi hoahai,

What an awesome post!

You saved my day. I followed your instructions and everything went OK.

Goods explanations of the steps with pdf sheets.

I did what you did to repair the trouble, a little piece of wood in the connector secure with electric tape and the trick is done.

Thank's a lot. Several dollars saved by this post.
 
#10 ·
I have an intermittently functioning center high mount brake light too... works whenever it wants. Dealer said to replaced the wirings and the entire lamp. I read somewhere, that there is a recall for this. But, they said my VIN is not included. I wish they'd be more specific in isolating the issue.

Anyway, I'll have to do it myself... though, this thread seems helpful. Update you soon. Thanks
 
#12 ·
There is a recall related to that brake light, but have nothing to do with the light. It has something to do with the BCM module. Here is the link to the recall procedure. You might want to try it first.

It is very simple. Also if your cruise control does not work, that indicates the issue is at BCM. I actually had this BCM issue . When that occurred, my cruise control did not work either.

If all the stop lamps do not work, then check the STOP Lamp relay #49 in the fuse box under the hood.
If all that are checked ok, the problem is likely at the lamp. Take your time to try the procedure. The whole day if you need to. It is low risk. but can take time, depending on your skills.

You did not say how much the dealer quoted for the job. But I would bet it is something between $400 - $600. The lamp itself costs about $150. The labor is 2 hours. so it is worth trying..

good luck
 
#16 ·
Well I'm on round 2 on my center brake light and here's what I found on mine.
Mine was intermittent, depending on temperature it would work, not work or be dimly lit. IE would work when car was cold but would stop working after interior warmed up.
On pulling out the light assy. and taking it apart I found what they call cold soldier joints on where the tin connector plates that the LED's are mounted on are attached to the printed circuit board that hold the power dropping resistors.
Using a lower heat pencil type soldier iron I re-soldiered the connections. So far, so good. I had the stick on the brake pedal and was in the rear seat playing with the 2 connectors and the wiring and by slightly flexing the light assy. I found my issue.
I would recommend this repair for the electrically savvy person, it may be too intense for the unskilled.
Being the light assy. is at least a $80 part I was gonna make the attempt on solving my issue or doing a cheaper retro fit.
If my repair doesn't hold up I'll post back.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I was on my round 2 yesterday. I opened up the assembly but could not find a way to remove the board and the led lights. Attached are the pictures. Can you circle where you soldered the connections?

I still think that the problem is at the connection of the 2 prongs to the board. I would have resoldered them if I had been able to remove the board. I ended up doing the same thing. Just wedge the connectors with 2 plastic toothpick. Will see how long they would go this time.

I agreed that retrofitting would be a good permanent solution. Just keep the assembly housing, find an after market 12v led light like the below, and retrofit it in there.
White LED License Plate Light (9) LED
 

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#18 ·
I previously soldiered the connector prongs but it didn't help. I just ground away some of the plastic housing for access. I originally posted that as a cure.
That's when on the second attempt I found the bad joints on the printed circuit board where the tin led array connects to the board. Those can be soldiered easily from the ''green'' side of board. If you look closely at the board joint you may see a tiny gap in the soldier joint.
Wedging the connector just flexes the board so the array to board joint makes contact IMO. That's why I had the stick on the brake pedal so I could sit in the back and play with the wiring and the light assy. .
I can't access your pics on my laptop to circle anything (not on my home desktop) but you will see where the shiny "tin" led array prongs go through and connect to the green board.
Mine has been fine since my last posting.
 
#20 ·
This is a follow up on my last repair.
So far, so good. HMSL is working fine through spring temperature variations from sub freezing to 60 deg. temps.
Before the last repair attempt it would fail, now it's working fine so the cold soldier joints on the tin LED array to green board joints where my problem like I posted previously.
 
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#21 ·
Glad to know that. I will live with my mickey mouse wedging solution until it stops working.. then I will open it up for that major surgery or a retrofit
 
#22 ·
I just got the time today to tackle this job. The instructions in this post are spot on and I did find the connector at the LED PCB assembly seems to be the culprit, and it definitely is not the LED assembly. I just jammed a 22awg piece of wire in between the connector and the housing. Thanks again for this.
 
#23 ·
Glad it worked for you and thanks for the feed back.
I think the connection was getting loose over the time and the problem can come back because when we slam the trunk, it shocks that weak spot. When the trunk struts worn out the impact become much worse. I just replaced trunk struts. It costs only $20 for the pair. Would recommend everyone to do that if your trunk struts become weak. I think that would help this fix lasts longer.
 
#24 ·
Dealer was going to charge $400+ to replace light here also. I had same intermittent problems. I cut a little piece of drinking straw, jammed it in, and used a little bit of tape to the housing. It seems to be working. This is a defect and needs to be under some bulletin.
 
#25 ·
Thanks a million hoahai. I had the same problem and came across your post. Used your guide to remove necessary mouldings and such and found the connector to the LED assembly to be loose as described. I inserted a couple of wooden toothpicks and taped over them to prevent them from coming out. Brake light has operated as designed since this repair without any interruption whatsoever. I still don't know why GM didn't issue a recall as I believe it would fall under a safety hazard requiring corrective action.
 
#26 ·
Why, it's simple!

NHTSA was founded by an ol' hillbilly, so he included a clause in the department's charter that allows for DIY (aka "hillbilly") fixes to exclude the necessity of a recall. That thar fellar was one-a them "Good Ol' Boys" from down in tha hollar! ;)
 
#29 ·
Here's a follow up on my post #18 repair of almost a year ago.
Zero issues in temps from 100 deg. to -25 deg. . High mount brake light has been flawless since soldering the tin connector/mounts.
I even had the package shelf off to change out the rear speakers in between and no issues.
 
#31 ·
Please let us know how it turns out! I have found that you usually get what you pay for. "Cheap" is cheap for a reason. It may turn out to be a good item, but it's more likely something that will fail long before you'd like it to.
 
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