Looking to buy an 07. Questions about door locks, wipers, and AC.. - Chevy Malibu Forum: Chevrolet Malibu Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
CMF Rookie Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 3
Looking to buy an 07. Questions about door locks, wipers, and AC..

My wife has a 2004 Sable that is falling apart. Funds are low and we are looking at purchasing a 2007 LT with 125K miles on it. They are only asking $2,500 and it seems in good shape for the most part, especially if I can get by with just a few hundred in repairs. Engine and transmission sound fine. It drives well. It's been sitting for a few months so they are letting me drive it for a couple of days to see how it is running. I drove it about 50 miles today and the computer is showing 35ish mpg at 70mph and averaging about 24mpg around town so it seems to be doing well. The Sable only gets us 16mpg around town and less than 20mpg on the highway. The Malibu recently had difficulty starting and they replaced the starter, ignition, and ultimately the fuse box. It has a couple of issues, 2 minor and 1 more so.

1: The power door locks all lock when put in gear and unlock when put in park. That makes it appear that the lock actuators work. The problem is that nothing happens when using either of the lock switches on the front doors. Is it likely that it's both switches? Or is there some type of fuse or something that would affect only the switches but the locks themselves work. There are no fobs to test with.

1a: What's the best way to get new fobs? Looks like it needs to be programmed by the dealership and can't be done by myself, correct?

2: The wipers work on low, med, and high, but I can't seem to get the intermittent wipers to work. I'm guessing that the intermittent wipers are engaged when the lever is stationary (the wipers are off) and the end is twisted. Pushing the button on the end of the lever does engage the wipers and the jets. Seems like it is only the intermittent wipers having a problem. Is that some sort of relay?

3: The AC only blows cold when the car is idling. The owner says they've had it in the shop and the freon levels are good. The compressor is loud and has a loud rattling sound when engaged but it doesn't appear to have any visible vibrations. If I start driving along the air gets humid and stops blowing cold. If I stop the car, it seems I have to turn the air off and back on for it to start working again. While idling it'll blow very cold at all blower speed settings. While driving turning the air off and back on doesn't seem to help, only at idle. It feels as if maybe its low on freon and when driving the pressure changes and it goes wonky but the shop apparently already checked it. I may need a shop to look at this anyway since I don't have any way to evacuate the freon but do you guys have any ideas?

Thanks for any info that can be provided.
crazyhandpuppet is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 03:13 AM
Administrator
 
DrivenDaily's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Indiana
Posts: 13,025
Garage
Re: Looking to buy an 07. Questions about door locks, wipers, and AC..

Those are interesting issues and you seem to have explained them quite well. I'm not a tech, just a DIY like most folks, but I'm not afraid to modify my car, which means I've had to learn a few things about it that I otherwise wouldn't have. Plus I've learned a lot from the folks on here, too.

The only Malibus I've actually owned and worked on are my 3 Gen7 models: 2009, 2011, and 2011. (Flood loss on the 1st 2011. ) That said, my ideas below are just that, ideas. I hope they help.

1. Since the actuators work when the gear selector tells them to then the locks themselves are not the issue. Based on the Gen7 schematics, both door lock switches are wired to the BCM (body control module) on individual terminals, then inside the BCM they are joined into one input to the computer itself. The BCM takes the input and sends the lock/unlock signal to the doors. Depending on trim level and/or personalization settings, the driver's door can be unlocked separately from the other three doors, such as when using a key fob.

It's very possible that it's both switches. There's actually a third switch that many overlook - the driver's outside door lock! See if using that makes the doors lock and unlock. If so, then you probably just need to take the two switches out of the doors and overhaul them. It takes attention to detail and some time, plus you have to be careful when disassembling them so that you don't drop something, and you want to observe how they're assembled so you can put them back together and have working switches. If that's not in your wheelhouse then you might try finding some in a junkyard.

1a. I'm not sure about programming key fobs. In some years, possibly yours, they can be programmed by using the ignition key and going through a series of quick steps. In other years it takes a trip to the dealership or someone with a Tech2 scanner. Search this site and/or wait for others to chime in with more info.

2. In Gen7 models, the intermittent position sends a reduced-voltage signal to the BCM on the exact same wire as Low and High. Additionally, High sends a signal to the High-Only wiper relay under the hood to provide full power to the wiper motor. If we exclude High, then on Int and Low the BCM receives the signal on the same wire. Low goes through one resistor and Int goes through as many as five additional resistors, which the BCM interprets as your choice of delay interval. So, if you can find the terminal on the BCM and carefully test it for voltage you should be able to determine if the voltages are getting there for Int or not. If they are and the wipers never pause then I'd say it's a BCM issue. If the voltages are not getting there then I'd say it could be the wiper switch/stalk itself.

3. It almost sounds like the clutch is slipping and can't keep up with engine speed. Once the engine slows it's able to regain some purchase on the compressor. The noise, though, is disconcerting. It could be the clutch or it could be an idler pulley. Or it could be something altogether different.

Those are my thoughts. I hope some of them help.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

'11 LTZ, born Aug 2010, Fairfax, KS

V6/A6, Red Jewel Tintcoat / Cocoa-Cashmere, Sunroof

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Mods: WeatherTech mats,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
::
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



Traded: '09 2LT Black Granite Metallic V6 / A6 at 20,058 miles
Lost: '11 LTZ RJT V6 / A6 in flood at 44K miles

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DrivenDaily is offline  
post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
CMF Rookie Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 3
Re: Looking to buy an 07. Questions about door locks, wipers, and AC..

Thanks for the quick reply!

1. I didn't know if the Malibu unlocked/locked the rest of the doors from drivers door lock but I've already tried that and it doesn't seem to do anything. I've tried single twisting and double twisting but the locks don't do anything. If none of those work, are you saying it's the BCM?

1a. I've called the dealership. They are quoting $40 per fob to program and something like $60 per fob to purchase. If I got 2 fobs I'm looking at around $200. If I purchase the fobs online and have them program them then I'm around $100.

2. I can trace it out, I suppose. With all of the electrical work just done on this car, if I find it is sending voltage to the BCM, am I in for a big problem with this costwise? I've never priced BCM work. $2,500 isn't a good price for a car that needs a couple thousand in repairs, you know?

3. I checked freon levels today by purchasing a can of freon with a reusable gauge which hooks to the low pressure side (I think) and charging hose for $17. It was under 60 degrees outside (ah, Florida winters) and the charts didn't have anything below that so I can't really say what was what for certain. What I do know is that at idle and the AC full blast the needle was in the blue "good" territory. When I revved then engine up to 2,500rpm for a minute or so and then went back to check it had increased pressure up into the yellow "warning" territory. Since it was so cold outside it was always blowing cold air so I can't tell if it stopped blowing cold air or not. I waited a couple of minutes with it at idle and it stayed up in the yellow area and didn't come back down into the blue. Does that help?
crazyhandpuppet is offline  
 
post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 06:35 AM
Administrator
 
DrivenDaily's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Indiana
Posts: 13,025
Garage
Cool Re: Looking to buy an 07. Questions about door locks, wipers, and AC..

It stands to reason that if you use the schematics that apply to your actual year and model, you'll be sure to have the most accurate info possible. To that end, if you click on the link below you can view and/or download schematics for free, but "free" comes with ads and other nuisances. I've tried it and it isn't that bad.

CLICK HERE

For the following I am referencing the schematics for my Gen7.

1. Not necessarily the BCM. The wire from the door to the body could be damaged. I'd suggest finding the wire/terminal at the BCM and seeing if a ground will cause them to lock. The BCM connector is "X1" on the drawing but labeled "J1" on my BCM. Yours is very likely the same. The terminal numbers are 66 (driver's switch) and 67 (passenger's switch). Both wires are listed as Wht. If your connector layout is different or the terminals don't have the same colors of wires, be extra cautious.

To try to unlock them at the BCM, use the same terminals and apply a ground going through a resistor. The problem is I don't know what value resistor to use or what actual voltage is being seen by the BCM, but it's safe to say it's a very small value. You might try unplugging one switch and then putting an ohmmeter across terminals A and C (since B is for switch illumination) to see what the value is. On second thought, if you get an actual value across A and C, why not just run a pair of jumper wires? Connect ground to "A" and connect "C" to the BCM. If it suddenly starts locking and unlocking the doors then the wiring is the whole issue!

- - - > I looked at my schematics to see if it might be possible to use the shifter's switch to lock or unlock to the doors but it is like the rest of the car: computerized. That means that there is not a simple switch that sends the signal. Instead, it tells the BCM that it's in Park, but the personalization menu has the final word. In my car I have the choice of unlocking when placed in Park or when turning off the ignition. I have mine set to the latter. So, no workaround on the Gen7.

1a. Be careful purchasing the fobs online. Certain models, years, and trim levels may use a specific fob ID number. Getting the wrong one could cost more in the long run. Not saying not to buy online, just use due diligence and some research to possibly save a C-note.

2. On the BCM, the wiper switch signal is on connector "X2" (aka "J2"), terminal 57, color Gry. Unplug the wiper switch wherever it's convenient and test it for varying ohm values. If you test the switch itself, use terminals D and E. Low and High will be identical on terminal "E", and "D" is where 12V battery power is supplied. Move the lever to Int and watch the ohm reading. As you move through the different Int delay settings the ohm value should change. If it doesn't then either you're not testing the correct terminals or the Int function has somehow stopped working. If that's the case then a new wiper switch/turn signal stalk may be just the ticket!

3. Not sure what to say with outside temps that low, but it sounds like you've done as much as you can until warmer weather (or a heated garage) comes your way.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

'11 LTZ, born Aug 2010, Fairfax, KS

V6/A6, Red Jewel Tintcoat / Cocoa-Cashmere, Sunroof

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Mods: WeatherTech mats,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
::
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



Traded: '09 2LT Black Granite Metallic V6 / A6 at 20,058 miles
Lost: '11 LTZ RJT V6 / A6 in flood at 44K miles

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DrivenDaily is offline  
post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
CMF Rookie Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 3
Re: Looking to buy an 07. Questions about door locks, wipers, and AC..

Finally got the quote back from the mechanic. $1,100 to fix the AC. He says the compressor is "lazy" and needs to be replaced. It's a new compressor "kit" that includes other things besides the compressor like the condenser and filter I think. Something like $550 in parts and $550 in labor. He says it all needs to be done to have any kind of warranty on the compressor. If I were to do the labor myself, could I get away with doing just the compressor or do the other things need to be swapped as well? How hard would it be?

I did an AC overhaul on my old 89 LeBaron back in high school. I swapped out all the parts under the hood myself and it never seemed to run the same again so I'm a little tepid. I feel like it's just 4 bolts to remove the pipes, remove the serpentine belt, unplug and dismount the compressor from the car. Installation would be the reverse. Then how much Freon do I need and do I also need to put in PAG oil? I never knew if I got that right when I did the work back on the LeBaron. I ask because I can get the compressor w/clutch from Advance Auto for $300 after codes and tax (PN: T98271) and Freon for like $20-$30. Any ideas or am I way off?
crazyhandpuppet is offline  
post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 03:05 PM
Administrator
 
DrivenDaily's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Indiana
Posts: 13,025
Garage
Re: Looking to buy an 07. Questions about door locks, wipers, and AC..

I would consider doing it myself if it was gonna cost me $350, which could end up saving me $750 so long as everything went okay. One of the issues with AC systems is being able to flush the entire system of any junk that may have gotten into it, and being able to pull a complete vacuum on it. Once that's accomplished it would seem that adding Freon should be the last step.

Now, those savings don't include the parts you're not installing that are included in the estimate above, or does it?


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

'11 LTZ, born Aug 2010, Fairfax, KS

V6/A6, Red Jewel Tintcoat / Cocoa-Cashmere, Sunroof

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Mods: WeatherTech mats,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
::
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



Traded: '09 2LT Black Granite Metallic V6 / A6 at 20,058 miles
Lost: '11 LTZ RJT V6 / A6 in flood at 44K miles

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DrivenDaily is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy Malibu Forum: Chevrolet Malibu Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Radio/ door locks Rrhmj23 General Discussion (Generation 8) 9 04-23-2016 09:56 AM
Door locks ajackson75 Problems/Service Issues/Troubleshooting (Generation 7) 7 12-05-2012 02:40 PM
Malibu door locks. hjlint Problems/Service Issues/Troubleshooting (Generation 7) 9 05-08-2012 09:46 AM
Please Help! door locks will not work. ZACHDAVIS Do It Yourself Maintenance (Generation 7) 0 03-16-2009 01:44 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome