make it so your fog lights stay on when turn brite lights on - Chevy Malibu Forum: Chevrolet Malibu Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-04-2011, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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make it so your fog lights stay on when turn brite lights on

i have a 2011 and want the fog lights to stay on when hit the brties does anyone know how to do that
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-04-2011, 12:15 PM
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Re: make it so your fog lights stay on when turn brite lights on

If you're willing to do some wiring I can help you. Can you read a schematic and/or design a circuit, or do you just need to know what wires?


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Lost: '11 LTZ RJT V6 / A6 in flood at 44K miles

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-04-2011, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Re: make it so your fog lights stay on when turn brite lights on

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Originally Posted by DrivenDaily View Post
If you're willing to do some wiring I can help you. Can you read a schematic and/or design a circuit, or do you just need to know what wires?
oh yeah i can read a schematic yes if u could tell me how to do it would be great thanks
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-05-2011, 06:15 AM
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Re: make it so your fog lights stay on when turn brite lights on

Well, then, you're in luck! Here's a link to the schematics for 2008 Malibus. Very few changes and they'll be self-evident.

Link to my DropBox 2008 schematics

If you need further guidance just holler!


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V6/A6, Red Jewel Tintcoat / Cocoa-Cashmere, Sunroof

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Traded: '09 2LT Black Granite Metallic V6 / A6 at 20,058 miles
Lost: '11 LTZ RJT V6 / A6 in flood at 44K miles

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-05-2011, 10:51 AM
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Re: make it so your fog lights stay on when turn brite lights on

So, I just got done with playing around with an idea inspired by how I did this on my old ram. This will require some fine tuning to make it safe which I think can be accomplished by a fused jumper wire.

Anyways, what I did was ran a jumper wire from one relay to another. I ran the wire from pin #30 of the low beam relay to pin #87 on the fog light relay. Both of these are in the underhood fuse block, relay #36 for the fog lights and relay #38 for the low beams.

The end result was the low beams come on and so do the fog lights and vice versa. They function as normal with automatic lights too. Although, instead of the BCM commanding the fog lights off with the high beams on, they stay on only because power from the low beam relay provides power to the fog light relay to keep them on. I had this same thing done on my truck with no problems for years and it is easily reversible.

The only thing I am not sure of is if there will be any downsides on this car, which is where I ask for others opinions regarding doing it this way. If there is no problems then this takes a couple minutes to do.

09' Malibu LTZ with brick leather interior
4 cyl w/6 speed auto
Silver Ice Metallic paint

Mods: PTM bow ties, grill, washer nozzles, and fog light trim
-20% tint
-MTX600XD, 2 12" Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1, 4 gauge stinger wire, Pioneer 7800MP CD player
-5000K HID headlights and 3000K fog lights
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-Blacklight overhead console LED's
-Painted and polished factory aluminum wheels



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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-05-2011, 03:53 PM
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Re: make it so your fog lights stay on when turn brite lights on

The only real downside I see is that #30 and #87 are the high-power contacts. So making the low beam relay run the high power to both the low beams and the fogs you're possibly overworking the contacts.

I just checked the schematic and there's a better way around this. The high and low beam relay coils have a constant +12V on one side and are switched with ground, whereas the fogs have a constant ground with a switched hot. All we'll need is one diode. Use a fairly large one for rectifying so it'll last a long time without issues. This modification will use the power from the headlights to signal the fog light relay instead of turning on the fog lights themselves. The reason for the diode is to prevent the fog light signal from trying to run the low beam light bulbs. You'll blow a fuse and be scratching your head!

The way the coils are arranged in the fuse box it's possible to reverse them and have them work properly. So with the following steps you'll be able to use the +12V when the lows are on to switch on the fogs.

Terms:
N.O. - Normally Open
COM - Common (moving contact)

1. Pull the fog relay. Notice that it's marked with 4 contact numbers: 87 is N.O., 30 is COM, 85 and 86 are the coil. These are standardized around the world.

2. Check for a constant +12V with the fog light switch off. In the other corner diagonally is the terminal going out to the actual lights. Mark those two corners as the high-amperage (but still 12V) terminals.

3. Turn the key on and turn on the fog light switch. Check the remaining two corners. One will be a constant ground. With the fog light switch on the last one will be the switched +12V signal. Mark that one as the one we want.

4. Turn off the key.

5. Pull the low beam relay. Check each corner as above. Two will be constant +12V. One will appear as a ground and that is the lights. The last one should be open.

6. Turn on the low beams. Check the last one that should have been open - it should now be a ground as well. If not then use the markings on the coil to determine which two terminals are the coil. Remember that you're looking at it upside down.

7. Once you determine which ones are the coil terminals, mark the one identified as the lights.

8. Using the diode, hook it up so the BANDED end goes to the marked terminal on the fog lights (see step 3) and the other end to the marked terminal on the low beams (see step 7).

9. Test for proper operation.

Now, if you wanna get real frisky you can add a switch. A simple on-off switch will enable or disable the automatic function you just added by interrupting the connection between the two terminals. Using a 3-position (on-off-on) switch will allow you to control the fogs with the key or other +12V signal of your choice. For the 3-position switch the COM will be the NON-banded end of the diode. One of the remaining two will be the low beams, and the other will be the +12V circuit of your choice.


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'11 LTZ, born Aug 2010, Fairfax, KS

V6/A6, Red Jewel Tintcoat / Cocoa-Cashmere, Sunroof

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Traded: '09 2LT Black Granite Metallic V6 / A6 at 20,058 miles
Lost: '11 LTZ RJT V6 / A6 in flood at 44K miles

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