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Turbo or Supercharger kits for a 2010 V6 3.6 L

40K views 27 replies 12 participants last post by  MonkeyRench 
#1 ·
I've been looking everywhere, but I can't seem to find an entire kit, if they even exist. Installation of something like that is a bit over my head, but if its out there I'll just have a shop install it. Also a supercharger kit would be fine too, but again I would just have a shop install everything.
i'm kinda done messing with these new vehicles. It's a 2010 LTZ with the 3.6 V6 if that helps. Thanks for any input.
 
#3 ·
they are hard to find because they don't exist. Can it be done? yes. but there is a limited amount to be gained. the tranny is only rated for 300 HP. Not even to mention the thousands it would take to get it done..

but hey, i would love to see it done
 
#6 ·
maybe we need a forced induction/got boost forum on here. every fifth post is where do i find a turbo or supercharger? not a lot of good information from veteran users either. suggesting that users buy a new car neither answers the question nor informs the rest of us. any car can be made to be quick. some of us enjoy a "sleeper."
 
#15 ·
suggesting that users buy a new car neither answers the question nor informs the rest of us.
That answer does both.

The proper answer is: If you have enough money, almost anything is possible.

Since most people are not in that situation........because if they were, they probably wouldn't have a Bu in the first place.......it informs you that it is not practical for much of anybody.

It also informs you that the money that you do have could be better spent on something else.
 
#8 ·
adding forced induction to a car that was not designed for it is never cheap, but i don't believe he asked for a price quote. while the aftermarket may not support a premade turbo kit, piecing together your own "kit" will in all likelihood provide you with better parts and greater understanding. an ebay turbo kit is never the answer.

are you familiar with how turbocharging or supercharging works? what is the horsepower goal for the car? or is there a performance benchmark youre shooting for? 13s? i would suggest dyno runs before to get a baseline and after any changes are made to see gains.
 
#9 ·
Do you have any recommended parts suppliers, or conversely, ones you'd recommend staying away from?

Is a dyno a prerequisite or would a couple runs at the local strip suffice well enough?

With the 3.6 rated at 252 HP (not sure if it's BHP or crankshaft) approx. how much boost would it take to raise it to around 300-325?
 
#11 ·
I guess I should answer that with BHP, as I understand it, is brake horse power and I've always understood that to mean it was measured at the wheels (brakes). But that could have been misinformation I've been carrying around these many years.

My biggest concerns would be: can the engine handle the increased stress and still have a realistic expectation to live a long time?, and can the trans handle it? At least the V6 trans has clutches where the I4 has spacers. It's set up for the extra ~100 HP of the V6.

John Force I definitely am not, but I can has dream? ;)
 
#13 ·
I had forgotten that "little" detail. I would have to stack a number of head gaskets or do some serious engine mods to be able to boost it very much.

I looked up BHP. I had it wrong on several levels. BHP is "boiler horse power", which is different from bhp, "brake horse power". bhp is where a De Prony brake is used on an engine's output shaft (crankshaft) to load the engine and keep it at a predetermined speed, then the horse power is calculated based on the results. As you mention, dynamometers are the current technology employed. They measure it at the wheels and account for drivetrain losses that the bhp method would not.
 
#17 ·
it's not simple, lets all give up easily!

to the people questioning expense, what is a reasonable amount to spend to properly set up a car for forced induction when it wasn't originally designed that way?

what makes you think selling a late model domestic family car is a smarter financial decision?
 
#18 ·
what makes you think selling a late model domestic family car is a smarter financial decision?
I'll discuss this. But please, don't take this as being harassing or argumentative!

OK - if what you want is a fast car, it makes more sense to have a car that starts off fast and build it up.

In addition, if it's your Daily Driver, rule #0 on Daily Drivers is - Don't Mess With The Daily Driver.

You want to play, it's better to have a play car.

Unless you happen to have a job that not showing up for a week or more because you're waiting for a part to show up is acceptable.











Didn't think so.

I'm not so much saying sell it as buy ANOTHER car to play with, personally.

Now, that's my viewpoint. Your mileage may vary. Tax, Title, License Extra. Resultes May Not Be Representative Of Actual Results. Paid Commercial Actor. Batteries Not Included. Warning: Peanuts may contain nuts.

RwP
 
#19 ·
You forgot
  • Professional Driver on Closed Course
  • Do Not Attempt At Home
  • Does not apply to vehicles sold new for use in California
;) ;) ;)
 
#21 ·
I saw the J1349 Certification on the chart. If I read right that means it's 252 to the wheels, right?
 
#23 ·
Dang, just when I thought they'd publish something that meant something! To owners like me, what it plants at the wheels is what's important. Yeah, crankshaft power is a good number to have, but you still have to conjure up some sort of percentage lost in the process of transmitting it to the wheels.

I guess if I really need it that bad I'd have to take it to a dyno and get strapped in.
 
#25 ·
The way they do it is the best. So you know what the engine makes, not what it loses via the drivetrain. Plus, IF they ever did wheel ratings it would be a pain as a manual would get a different number from an automatic. As would two and four wheel drive, different gear ratios, etc...

The very AVERAGE drivetrain loss to use is about 20% for automatics, 15% for manuals and dual clutch like gearboxes. You will find that some cars are over rated, others under.
 
#24 ·
Most automatic transmissions lose around 20% on the way to the wheels. I'd guess the 'Bu probably puts down 200-202 fwhp.
 
#26 ·
The best thing accomplished by J1349 is most likely a standard to compare one engine to another provided of course that all engines in the comparison are using numbers generated by J1349 correction. There are calculators to correct the figures to more obtainable temperature and humidity levels as I think I read somewhere J1349 uses 0% humidity. Not very attainable east of the Mississippi.
 
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