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Variable Valve Timing Solenoid P0014 P0013

81K views 53 replies 22 participants last post by  ChevyMalibu509 
#1 ·
My engine light kept going on and off randomly. I could tell the car wasn't running smoothly while the engine light was on. I brought it over to my friend's shop for diagnostics. Pulled codes P0014 and P0013. Part was a bit over $50 and labor around $230. Luckily I have a warranty that covered it (minus my $100 deductible).

Also had the BG44K fuel additive done, hoping maybe that would also help with mileage. Meh - still getting the same mileage. Anyway, definitely not that happy with the Malibu so far. It's my first car, I've always had trucks and SUV's and came to the car for the "advertised" gas mileage. With Edmunds showing 25/37 MPG and I do most of my driving on the freeway - I'm consistently getting 25 - 26 mpgs. I stayed away from AWD cars for the mileage - but this gets worse than a lot of AWD cars out there. I don't drive with a lead foot (that's why I have a motorcycle). Other than that - the interior and ride seem nice, but not happy with this purchase thus far.
 
#2 ·
Hey man, the 2013 Malibu LTZ is rated 22/34 mpg, with a 26 mpg combined rating. Your car sounds like it's working exactly as advertised.

The 2013 "Eco" with the eAssist mild hybrid system was rated 25/37 mpg, and the 2014-2015 Malibu 2.5L with start/stop and intake valve lift control are rated 25/36 mpg.

*Edit* Why did you pay a deductible for repairs? A 2013 Malibu should still be fully covered by GM's bumper-to-bumper warranty.
 
#5 ·
I'm pretty sure the GM warranty is transferrable, so the dealership you bought your car from took your money. This should have been covered by the powertrain warranty if I'm not mistaken, 5 years/100,000 miles. You probably could have gotten it done free at a Chevy dealer.

As far as your mileage, everyone estimates their driving style differently, but if you're getting 25-26 mpg you're pretty much right on the money for combined driving, IMO, especially in the winter. Reset your average speed and average MPG when you fill up a tank of gas and let us know what both of them say.

The easiest proof of fuel economy would be a road trip come spring time. Reset your avg MPG and see what the car does at 65-70 mph for a long distance.
 
#7 ·
My car has already been to the dealer twice to have that replaced. Hope it wont continue to be an issue..
 
#10 ·
There are two VVT solenoids, intake and exhaust. Are you sure they had to replace the same one twice? That seems extremely unlikely.

It didn't take long because it's a super easy repair. I did my girlfriend's 2.4L solenoids as a pair in less than half an hour outside in 20 degree weather.
 
#12 ·
same part number on the paperwork, but they didn't specify. Ironically its in there now for a bad O2 sensor....
 
#13 · (Edited)
These solenoids often come out of the engine covered with debris. Where this debris comes from I don't know. Someone posted pics of a VVT solenoid that had the wings of an insect stuck to? Removing this crud and re-installing the old valves will sometimes cure the problem.

The VVT solenoid valves are usually covered by the 100,000 mile power train warranty.
 
#15 ·
There are probably a dozen places you can buy online if you google those part numbers. I bought the Cobalt actuators off Amazon, they have a surprisingly good automotive section.
 
#18 ·
The actuators are pointed out as part 24 near the top of the illustration.



Here's an image from an ebay listing. All GMs VVT actuators look relatively similar, this is no exception.

 
#17 · (Edited)
Called my local dealer the solenoids are $53.00 each, but wouldn't tell me the part #'s. I asked to then verify What I have above and was told those aren't for my 13 2LT with the 2.5 engine. I think I will just remove and clean them and see how that goes.

According to this Chevy Dealer here are the new #'s:

12662736 solenoid
Malibu; Intake

12662737 - solenoid
Malibu; Exhaust

http://parts.ganleygm.com/showAssem...ne=51990&ukey_trimlevel=108431&modelYear=2013

Amazon here:
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/New-Genuine-GM-Valve-Part/dp/B00YWAY3Z2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1440795998&sr=1-1&keywords=12662736[/ame]

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/New-Genuine-GM-Valve-Part/dp/B00YWAXTVG[/ame]
 
#20 ·
This and the even better question, how to get it back on? I was able to get one of the connectors off (intake solenoid) with a moderate prying with a flathead on the valve cover but it was near impossible to get back on. It was hard enough to get off that I was expecting a positive action in getting it back on. However, every attempt to snap it on and a simple tug would take it off again (unlike the initial prying effort needed). No amount of thumb pressure (even unto pain) would get it to snap on again. Well, I eventually broke it. :eek: Does anyone know how these connectors work? There must be a simple way to release them from the solenoid and getting them back on without breaking them. And can they be replaced? Any guess at the procedure?

(Please help!) Right now, it's held in by friction so it's not likely to hold long. You might ask why did it get to this point? The car threw a code (P0013) and it's only a little over three years old. I was hoping to clean the solenoid connectors, clear the code and see if the solenoid was really failing before I replaced it. The good news is that it hasn't thrown a code yet even with the friction held replacement but I need to fix the connector. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

-Rocky
 
#21 ·
OK, I think I see where I went wrong. I saw the video on youtube on how to replace the solenoids (I'm sorry I don't have the link since I'm at work and youtube is blocked) but if you search on replacing the variable timing solenoid, you can probably find it. In short, if you pinch the top of the connector across the short dimension of the oval and then pry it off gently, it comes off easily and will snap back on when re-installed. My guess is that it was broken earlier when I pried the connector off the solenoid so that it was not going to click nicely when re-installed. So, no matter how much I pressed on it, it wasn't going to stay on.

Now that I know what I should have done, can someone offer suggestions on how to replace the broken connector? AC-Delco part number for the connector? RockAuto has a multipurpose connector PT2904 (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4654461&cc=1501855&jnid=545&jpid=0) at $63 that looks like it might work but there's no telling for sure. Do you think it will work?

Any offered help will be appreciated. Thanks.

-Rocky
 
#23 ·
...

Now that I know what I should have done, can someone offer suggestions on how to replace the broken connector? AC-Delco part number for the connector? ...
OK, here's some info for those whom it may help. The connector part number for the Variable Timing Solenoids, at least for the 2.4L 4-cyl is ACD# PT2796 or GM# 13587320, which is the same part as the cam position sensor connector. However, if you can, keep the light gray locking tab off of the old one because it does not come with the new part (it should come off the old one pretty easily). I took it off the old one, installed the new connector and snapped in the locking tab from the old, broken one. Once installed, the locking tab snaps down preventing the release tab from being pressed. Neglecting the patching of the wires, it looks like new.

The instructions that come with the part are somewhat cryptic pictograms, no doubt used to avoid having to pay someone to write instructions and a raft of translators. The pictograms basically depict the process of using the included junctions and crimping the wires. Instruction 5 of 6 after the physical crimping looks like a cross between "use this tool" which looks like a soldering iron and "coat the junction with this stuff". The coating looks more like tape than a liquid or anything. The junction completely encloses the wire connection but I wrapped it in electrical tape anyway.

The new connector doesn't quite have the hold of the original because when I pried the old one off, apparently I removed some of the raised plastic on the solenoid that grips the connector and causes the positive click and hold. However, there's no risk of it popping off like the old broken one - it's a firm hold.

Curiously, even though I now know how to get the connector off, I tried to get the original one off of the exhaust solenoid (the one I didn't break). It still does not want to come off no matter how much I press on the release tab. I pried more than gently while pressing on the tab (and more than the guy on the youtube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Dkdd287AKg who shows you how to do the repair) and it does not want to come off. Since the solenoid repair is covered under the powertrain warranty, I'm not going to press my luck but I may just interrogate the tech that has to do the repair on the vehicle.

Anyway, I hope this info helps someone.

-Rocky
 
#24 ·
mraki - I'm glad you sorted out your situation, but realize you're posting part numbers, videos, and questions for the gen 7 (2008-12) Malibu in a thread for the gen 8 (2013-15). The engines are 100% different.

You'll get much better help next time if you post in the gen 7 section.
 
#30 · (Edited)
@KingBean870

I replaced these myself a few months ago. It's only one screw that holds them together. It's best to change both at the same time. If you're facing the engine with cover off, it's on the top front and back of the engine. The one in the back is a little more difficult to take off. The hardest part is the clips where the wire connect. Those are a little tricky. But make sure you lube the solenoids putting them in. On the chart number 19 is the VVT solenoid.

Actually the pic is too small here is the link of the chart:
http://www.gmpartsdepartment.com/pa...cleid=408766&diagram=NB1030&diagramCallOut=21
 

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#35 ·
@KingBean870

I replaced these myself a few months ago. It's only one screw that holds them together. It's best to change both at the same time. If you're facing the engine with cover off, it's on the top front and back of the engine. The one in the back is a little more difficult to take off. The hardest part is the clips where the wire connect. Those are a little tricky. But make sure you lube the solenoids putting them in. On the chart number 19 is the VVT solenoid.

Actually the pic is too small here is the link of the chart:
2013 Chevrolet Malibu Parts - GM Parts Department: Buy genuine GM auto parts & aftermarket accessories at wholesale prices.

@Fonzi_718 how did you get the clamps off?
 
#38 ·
What engine do you have 2.0L, 2.4L or 2.5L? Did you install a GM part? What part number did you install? Did you clear out your trouble codes? I will be doing my 2.5L soon and so it is concerning that you did the replacement and your car is running worse. Can you elaborate more on how the car is acting after the change of the exhaust variable valve timing (vvt) solenoid?
 
#40 ·
Yesterday, I received a letter from GM/Chevrolet (I have a 2013 2.0L) regarding this problem. They are extending the warranty repair coverage of this problem on the 2.0L and 2.5L engines to 10 years or 120,000 miles. If the problem has already been fixed and payed for by the owner, reimbursement for the repair is being offered. Check with your dealer.
 
#42 ·
So my 2013 LT was doing the same thing. P0013 and P0014 intermittently. I was about to change the solenoid, but someone in another forum with a different car had a problem with a sensor that kept going bad and only got resolved after an oil change.

So I decided to try this before spending on a new solenoid. I figured that a solenoid could get stuck from dirty/old oil gunk much like lifters sometime do. So I put about 1/2 a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase to see what happened.

I have used MMO to get valves and lifters unstuck in old engines, so I gave it a try. I cleared the codes and used the car as normal. The engine light and codes came back that same night, but I was already too tired and decided I would clear the codes the following day. I drove the car with the engine light during the day and was supposed to clear the codes in the evening. But on my way home from work the light just turned off all by itself. It has been a whole week and the light has not come back on. To me that means that the engine needed some cleaning and gunk was getting the solenoid stuck.

I'll come back and post if the issue reappears, but I think it's fixed. So invest a couple of dollars in a bottle of MMO and save yourself the trouble of a dirty engine.
 
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