I was wondering about how many miles I should put on my new Malibu 2.4L before doing my first oil change.I changed the oil in my 2006 HHR at about 2000 miles and found metal chips in my oil filter.I would like to get Mobil 1 synthetic and K&N oil filter in this baby ASAP.Let me know what you guys think.

I've heard that a lot of car 'enthusiasts' change theirs between 1 and 3 thousand miles. I tend to go to 3000, then follow the DIC (Mobil 1 full synthetic too). My new Bu isn't over 1500 yet, so almost halfway there..

Why disregard the Oil Life System? It's based on engine use and is recommended by the manufacturer.

Why disregard the Oil Life System? It's based on engine use and is recommended by the manufacturer.

On my 04 Grand Prix it seems the oil life monitor would let me go almost 10,000 miles between changes, which I thought was pretty extreme. I try to shoot for between 5 and 6K miles for an oil change.

On my 04 Grand Prix it seems the oil life monitor would let me go almost 10,000 miles between changes, which I thought was pretty extreme. I try to shoot for between 5 and 6K miles for an oil change.

As much as I trust the Oil Life System and as much as I disagree with the every 3000 mile oil change interval, I would never go beyond 5 to 6K either. If the Oil Life System allows you to go much longer than that, I would fear a build up of condensation in the oil from lack of engine use.

Does Chevy use a special "Break-in Oil"?

If you follow the maintenance schedule you'll never exceed 12 months without a change anyway- for those who don't drive enough that the OLS asks for a change any sooner. The interval is OLS or every 12 months, whichever is earlier. But I've made it a habit to change the oil by 3000 miles for every new vehicle, simply because of wear / breakin, and things I've read saying that this is the period where contaminants show up in a new vehicle.

I'm a believer in changing it at least by 6000. I like to change it myself, where's the oil filter on this baby??

Quick question..just picked up the oil filter and found it is not the normal filter with the metal outer casing...how do i change the filter on this sucker? Do i need a special tool or will it be fairly obvious once i get under the car?

The oil filter is on top of the motor just back of the oil dipstick,it has a 1 1/4 size plastic nut on top of the cover.It`s a real breeze to change it you`ll see.Check out the filter you`ll probably see metal chips in there.

Talked to my dealer and they said do the first at 3,000 which seems a bit much for a first - but I should be okay with that, right? What kind of damage could the metal chips do in the oil, if any real serious problems...

I just didn`t like the thought of those chips floating around in the oil I guess.Maybe I`d rather be safe than sorry.

Sorry for the dumb questions cause i haven't seen it yet...am i still trying to pour any oil in the new filter before i am trying to install it? i am guessing not but again, have never seen an oil filter like this before?

You don`t have to pour oil on the new filter just install it and screw on the plastic cover add the oil to the crankcase and you`re all set.Go with 4 to 4 1/4 quarts first then start the engine and check for leaks,then shut down the engine let it sit for a couple of minutes then check if you need more oil,don`t overfill.

thx..i appreciate the tips...

Went thru the first oil change..couple of things...when staring at the oil chamber, i noticed a pre-drilled hole that seemed deep with no screw in it? Did anyone else see that? Just wondering if i am missing a screw...

Also, i was able to get the oil filter cap off but struggled with the wrench because it was too big to manipulate in the small space..is there a tool made specifically for that type of cap?

btw, I have a black granite 2LT, 4 cylinder..so far so good...i just changed the oil at 2100 miles and saw a ton of metal pieces in the filter...glad i changed it..

I bought a 1 1/4 inch wrench and cut it down to a workable size and it works fine.As for the hole I think it`s OK the way it is.I`m still not sure about those metal chips in there.

i am full of dumb questions...i wasn't able to reset my Oil Life..i assumed it would work similar to the other items on the display panel such as MGP, Trip, etc... but when i brought oil life up and used the reset on the steering wheel it did nothing... what is the trick?

You have to press and hold the 2 bottom buttons together,then release after a couple seconds,then you can scroll to oil reset with the second button,then press the bottom button to reset and you`re all set,I hope this helps.

New guy here, i'm in the market for a new LTZ in the coming months but as I was reading this post got a lot shivers going down my back :eek:, as a former aircraft mech and backyard mech when ever I get a new car my schedule for oil changes is 500,1,000 and then 3,000 miles or 3 months thereafter, all those metal chips floating around in your oil is doing no good to that engine and that's not to say that all the those micro size chipsthat your filter can't catch are playing havoc with the internals(bearings,rings,seals) to spend that much money on a car and then neglect the oil is well, Crazy :rolleyes: Like the old Fram commercial said "Pay a little now or a lot Later" ;)

My dealer has told me 3,000 is fine for the oil change - should I ignore what the dealer says and bring the car in at 1,000 - which will be in about 2 weeks at the pace I'm driving. How much harm could those metal chips do to the engine if I wait until 3,000 like they say - very torn here....

I plan on changing the oil at about 1K. Is it overkill - you bet[borderline absurd]. The filter does a fantastic job of capturing the metal flakes[chips is in overstatement]. I change new motorcycles at less than 50 miles[dirt] less than 100 miles[street] - so I can install a magnetic drain plug.

As I stated before all that metal in your oil is not good:( as for Dealer's :rolleyes: I remember back in the 70's they recommended that you change your oil filter every other oil change :eek: To keep your car running at it's best oil changes are a must and frequent, and Synthetic oil is a waste of money in my opinion, a regular 3mo/3'ooo mile schedule is your best bet.;)

anyone know where to get a wrench for the oil filter?...you need a short one with a 1 1/4 mouth...i bought one but it wasn't ideal....

I use a 6 point 1/2" drive socket with a long extension and ratchet to change my daughters Cobalt and Saturn oil filters, just pop off the engine cover and there it is real easy ;)

And find the cheapest tools at any Auto Zone,Kragens,Pep Boys or autoparts store. :D

i didn't thnk about popping of the engine cover..not a bad idea...

i didn't thnk about popping of the engine cover..not a bad idea...
That's what these Forums are all about. Everybody helps where and whenever they can.

I have the 2.4L.... i don't think i can take over the engine cover without screwing something up...is that what everyone else did? there is a lot of stuff connected to it...

Anyone have any luck finding a magnetic engine oilpan drainplug? Sounds like it is something I would like to do. Seeing I haven't put any miles on it yet.

Ken

The chips I found in the oil filter were not steel ,they were aluminum,they don`t stick to a magnet,but it would be a good idea for the drainplug to catch any steel pieces.

2 things:

First, the aluminum flakes are typical wear metals over the course of the first oil change or two because of the casting process/cylinder ring mating process. If there weren't flakes, I'd be more concerened. You are all finding them suspened in you oil filter... exactly where they are supposed to be. That's what the filter is for.

Second, magnetic drain plugs are beneficial, but not in this case. Obviously, they won't grab the aluminum from the break in process. But, as the car gets older, they WILL grab other wear metals from your rod bearings, piston rings, etc, etc, etc. They are cheap insurance. If you start to notice a buildup of excess metal shavings, then you know SOMETHING inside your engine is wearing from metal/metal contact.

What viscosity oil is recommended in the Malibu 2.4L engine? Would a 5w20 work? I am some Penzoil Platinum Synthetic leftover I wouldnt mind putting in.

Got the first oil change for my Bu 08 2LT a week ago. It was at 3300 miles. The job was pretty easy comparing to the Sienna 04 and Civic 96 I also own and do oil change by myself. I did struggle a little bit with the oil cap but it is just the first time learning curve. Next time it will be a lot of easier. I was using a small adjustable wrench I bought from Walmart for 9 bucks. I use the ACDelco oil filter which I bought from the dealer. I did not see any chips or flakes in my oil filter. Not sure that is normal. One thing I don't like about the oil pan: it looks very cheap with some very small hair like cracks along the corner (where the bottom and the upside meet). It looks like a recycle part to me. At first I was scared when found them as I thought it might be defect! But I looked around to the other metal parts and I saw them too! I hope they are just cosmetic and won't develop to real cracks when the car gets old!

Got the first oil change for my Bu 08 2LT a week ago. It was at 3300 miles. The job was pretty easy comparing to the Sienna 04 and Civic 96 I also own and do oil change by myself. I did struggle a little bit with the oil cap but it is just the first time learning curve. Next time it will be a lot of easier. I was using a small adjustable wrench I bought from Walmart for 9 bucks. I use the ACDelco oil filter which I bought from the dealer. I did not see any chips or flakes in my oil filter. Not sure that is normal. One thing I don't like about the oil pan: it looks very cheap with some very small hair like cracks along the corner (where the bottom and the upside meet). It looks like a recycle part to me. At first I was scared when found them as I thought it might be defect! But I looked around to the other metal parts and I saw them too! I hope they are just cosmetic and won't develop to real cracks when the car gets old!


Those are casting scars from when the oil pan (or most metal casted parts for that matter) was pulled out of the mold. Lots of cars I've had has them. My old Honda had them all around the oil drain hole. Made me paranoid it would crack when I tightend it. 180K later it was still fine. Don't worry about it.

I had the dealer change my oil at 2100 miles so I'd have the receipt, but I also told him to NOT reset the computer. I want to see how many miles it goes before it 'thinks' I need to change the oil. I'm sure I'll have it changed again before the computer tells me to do it.

So far, I'm at 3,000 miles with 78% oil life left :eek:

I am considering switching to full synthetic at the 'recommended' oil change interval, then following the maintenance schedule after that. My driving is 98% highway, 40 minutes each way, at easy 50-65 mph. Full Syn should be fine for 10k changes under those conditions, AND, it's guaranteed by Chevy :p

Those are casting scars from when the oil pan (or most metal casted parts for that matter) was pulled out of the mold. Lots of cars I've had has them. My old Honda had them all around the oil drain hole. Made me paranoid it would crack when I tightend it. 180K later it was still fine. Don't worry about it.
Thanks, "impacted". You make me feel better. I did not see something like that on my Sienna 04 and Civic 96.

I had the dealer change my oil at 2100 miles so I'd have the receipt, but I also told him to NOT reset the computer. I want to see how many miles it goes before it 'thinks' I need to change the oil. I'm sure I'll have it changed again before the computer tells me to do it.

So far, I'm at 3,000 miles with 78% oil life left :eek:

I am considering switching to full synthetic at the 'recommended' oil change interval, then following the maintenance schedule after that. My driving is 98% highway, 40 minutes each way, at easy 50-65 mph. Full Syn should be fine for 10k changes under those conditions, AND, it's guaranteed by Chevy :p
I don't think it will do any thing different. The computer program probably calculates your oil life based on your driving pattern, which I think is your average speed, mpg and your mileages. I don't think it can sense your oil! If you read the manual, you will see it says that if you miss resetting your OLS, you should change your oil in the next 3000 miles and reset it. That how simple the OLS is!

I don't think it will do any thing different. The computer program probably calculates your oil life based on your driving pattern, which I think is your average speed, mpg and your mileages. I don't think it can sense your oil! If you read the manual, you will see it says that if you miss resetting your OLS, you should change your oil in the next 3000 miles and reset it. That how simple the OLS is!

I wouldn't exactly say it's simple- it takes into account drive time (how warm the engine gets), rpms, speed, etc. in a fairly complex (and according to other info I've read about it- pretty accurate) formula to determine when you need to change your oil. So if your driving conditions are more harsh than someone else's, your OLS will indicate the need to change sooner. My own driving is mostly highway, trips 30+ minutes long, very little stop and go, very little high rpm (racing stoplight to stoplight), and my car's system read well over 12000 miles between changes. GM covers themselves by telling you to go by the OLS recommendation or 12 months, whichever comes first, so you'll never go more than a year anyway.

The OLM is a great invention. Have been using the OLM on my Corvette and Tahoe with no problems. The Vette gets tracked 10 to 12 days per year with up to 3 hours of wide open throttle operation per day and I also drive it up to 4K miles per year. During the December to March time frame it usually only sees 300 miles of driving. Since its factory fill is Mobil 1 it gets one oil change per year. Usually the OLM reads in the 30 to 40 range.

The Tahoe which I use to tow the Vette to the track sees about 12K miles per year and uses dino oil. Using the OLM has dropped the number of oil changes from 4 to 3 per year.

Bill

I use synthetic oil in all my vehicles - an 07 Corvette Z06, an 08 Malibu LTZ 4cyl w/6 auto, an 06 Honda Civic, and an 05 Ranger Ext. cab. Good oil, good insurance. The Vette, Malibu, and Truck don't get driven enough to get an oil change during the year - change out once a year no matter the miles. In the Honda I go by the gauge and change when it tells me to, normally between 7 and 8K. Running the new Mobil 1 mileage oil in the Malibu. When I sell the Honda, the truck miles will pick up and take its place.

Advance Auto has a nice socket especially for the oil filter canister on our motors. Says its for the 2.2 motor, but works perfect on ours. Around $10. Found out about it on this forum. Highly recommend it. This car is the easiest I own to change the oil.