The TPMS matching process is outlined below:

Set the parking brake.
Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the engine off.
Press and hold the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter's LOCK and UNLOCK buttons, at the same time, for about five seconds to start the TPMS learn mode. The horn sounds twice indicating the TPMS receiver is ready and in learn mode.
Start with the driver side front tire. The driver side front turn signal also comes on to indicate that corner's sensor is ready to be learned.
Remove the valve cap from the tire's valve stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire's air pressure for about eight seconds. The horn chirp, can take up to 30 seconds to sound. It chirps one time and then all the turn signals flash one time to confirm the sensor identification code has been matched to the tire/wheel position.
The passenger side front turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side front tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5.
The passenger side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5.
The driver side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5.
After hearing the single horn chirp for the driver side rear tire, two additional horn chirps sound to indicate the tire learning process is done. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF.
If no tires are learned after entering the TPMS learn mode, or if communication with the receiver stops, or if the time limit has expired, turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF and start over beginning with Step 2.

Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label.
Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.

Holy Moly. Lol

When would you need to do this anyway?

Holy Moly. Lol

When would you need to do this anyway?

Anytime you change a wheel/tire from its original position, such as when you rotate them.

Ohh... Okay, I did not think of that.

The TPMS matching process is outlined below:

Set the parking brake.
Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the engine off.
Press and hold the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter's LOCK and UNLOCK buttons, at the same time, for about five seconds to start the TPMS learn mode. The horn sounds twice indicating the TPMS receiver is ready and in learn mode.
Start with the driver side front tire. The driver side front turn signal also comes on to indicate that corner's sensor is ready to be learned.
Remove the valve cap from the tire's valve stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire's air pressure for about eight seconds. The horn chirp, can take up to 30 seconds to sound. It chirps one time and then all the turn signals flash one time to confirm the sensor identification code has been matched to the tire/wheel position.
The passenger side front turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side front tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5.
The passenger side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5.
The driver side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5.
After hearing the single horn chirp for the driver side rear tire, two additional horn chirps sound to indicate the tire learning process is done. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF.
If no tires are learned after entering the TPMS learn mode, or if communication with the receiver stops, or if the time limit has expired, turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF and start over beginning with Step 2.

Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label.
Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.

Is this in the owner's manual? How are we supposed to know this? Better yet, how would any mechanic know to do this after rotating the tires??

wow...i never thought it would take less time to rotate the tire then to reset the sensor.

Is this in the owner's manual? How are we supposed to know this? Better yet, how would any mechanic know to do this after rotating the tires??
Yes, it is in the user manual, starting on page 5-56. Dealer Mechanics should know about it but don't expect others to know. You would not want other low-pay (such as Sam's club, etc..) mechanics to touch them any way. They likely will mess them up.
Even if you don't re-match them, it should not be a big deal. There are only 4 tires. If the alarm comes on, you can just check all of them.

wow...i never thought it would take less time to rotate the tire then to reset the sensor.

You can follow these steps in 10 minutes easily. It sounds worse than it is :)
Dealer would do it even faster, they have a special device for matching.

I did my first rotation tonight! took about 45 min. using hand tools. No problems reseting the sensors. Easy as pie!!!!!!

Strange, I Rotated my tires at 6,000 Miles. Never did this. Now I have 10,400 Miles and no lights. And mine does read the actual pressure in each wheel.
Escapemax

Strange, I Rotated my tires at 6,000 Miles. Never did this. Now I have 10,400 Miles and no lights. And mine does read the actual pressure in each wheel.
Escapemax

I don't see how this is possible. Are you sure the wheels are not mixed up in the readout? I.e. your LR is shown as RL for instance?

Guess it doesnt matter as long as all the wheels are set to the same pressure.

it does matter, as the vehicle has to know what tire is in which position, unlike most manufacturers, you have to do a complete procedure on these vehicles, as it only has 1 receiver, as in some manufacturers use independent receivers for each wheel, and they do not have a procedure to relearn positions, it does it automatically in some cases.

if you have the vehicle thinking the tires are set in position, say you rotate the tires and now the RF has a leak, well that tire was in the right rear before rotation, and now it has a leak, but the vehicle thinks its in the right rear, because the vehicle was never reset to have the tire positions learned.

easiest way to tell is with a tech 2 and the kent moore tool for the TPM systems. you can diagnose systems relatively easy with both tools.
it gives you the ability to view which sensor is in each wheel, by providing individual TPM sensor ID's unique to each wheel and vehicle. if you have a system that is suspect to have an issue with the system, you can verify that the vehicle knows where each tire is placed, it will display the ID information on the tech 2 for each individual wheel, and which position they are in.

Lets say my dealer rotated my tires and I don't know if they did this procedure. I assume its ok to do it myself even if I would in effect be doing it over again??

Lets say my dealer rotated my tires and I don't know if they did this procedure. I assume its ok to do it myself even if I would in effect be doing it over again??

Yes, it's absolutely ok.

Lets say my dealer rotated my tires and I don't know if they did this procedure. I assume its ok to do it myself even if I would in effect be doing it over again??

If you're not sure if the dealer did it, you can either do it yourself, or do a test by letting pressure out of, say, the left front, then checking the DIC (driver information center) to see if it matches.

My dealer skipped the step, so I performed the reset procedure and it went fine. My only issue was that the blinkers didn't indicate which wheel to do, so I had to just follow the instructions without that additional aid.

Got the 2nd tire rotation yesterday and reset TPMS. It worked great as usual. Just for curiosity, I paid some attention to the turn signals this time as there have been some complaints that the signals did not come on. The signals did come on for me. They flashed only one time very quick after the chirp sounded (about 1 sec or less). So you have to pay close attention to recognize it. As stated in other thread, this turn signal flash is obsolete because you already know the tire order needs to be done.

Yeah its not as hard as it sounds... Thanks for the info.

This seems like a whole lot of work for nothing. Is it absolutely necessary? I am getting mine rotate this Friday and I am not sure if I want to go to the trouble to do all of this lol.

If the dealer rotates them they're also supposed to reset it. If they don't (like mine did last time) take it back in and ask them to finish the job.

This seems like a whole lot of work for nothing. Is it absolutely necessary? I am getting mine rotate this Friday and I am not sure if I want to go to the trouble to do all of this lol.

If you don't you won't have accurate readings and it might set off the warning light. I have done it, it really takes like 5 min, easy.

I'm not sure if I am getting it done at the dealership, because I am getting an oil change at the same time. But just incase I do get it done there, how do you tell if they have done it or not?

Check the DIC for current readings, then let air out of one tire, about 2-3 psi, then check the DIC again. If the tire you took it out of is what shows as having lost the pressure then you're good. If not...

Kinda reminds me of my last "service" at Bob Hook Chevrolet on Bardstown Road here in Louisville, KY. (Not to be confused with a shop who cares.) They changed the oil, rotated the tires, and checked off all the little inspection boxes. I had to take it back to have them reset the OLM and the TPMS.

Oh, and that wasn't the worst of it. They left filthy prints all over the front of the hood and the door, and burned a quarter tank of gas to go nowhere! I took pictures before the service as a precaution since I'd been getting really tired of buying gas after every "service"! After I got the car back (and, yes, this is the service where they also damaged my door while performing warranty "service" that I posted in another thread) I took the pictures and my Garmin in to the general manager and proved to him that my car had been running for over 90 minutes and been moved only 0.7 mile! Then I showed him the picture of the gas gauge and the DIC Avg MPG - the picture showed over 1/4 tank of gas and 18.0 MPG. After the "service" it showed nearly empty and 16.2 MPG. Hmmmm, can you connect the dots? They did, then they told me to never come back. What???? Well, with such lousy service as that I don't want to anyhow!

Oh, and that wasn't the worst of it. They left filthy prints all over the front of the hood and the door, and burned a quarter tank of gas to go nowhere! I took pictures before the service as a precaution since I'd been getting really tired of buying gas after every "service"! After I got the car back (and, yes, this is the service where they also damaged my door while performing warranty "service" that I posted in another thread) I took the pictures and my Garmin in to the general manager and proved to him that my car had been running for over 90 minutes and been moved only 0.7 mile! Then I showed him the picture of the gas gauge and the DIC Avg MPG - the picture showed over 1/4 tank of gas and 18.0 MPG. After the "service" it showed nearly empty and 16.2 MPG. Hmmmm, can you connect the dots? They did, then they told me to never come back. What???? Well, with such lousy service as that I don't want to anyhow!

I remember reading your post. I hope you reported them to everyone you can, from the BBB to your mom. That's just down right dirty BS. Dealers like that are a bad image for GM and Chevrolet.

Not yet, but that option is on my list of planned events. Thanks for the support!

I just did the re calibrated the TPMS using the directions given, and it really was easy. Low and behold it was in the manual as well (as one response stated). My tire gauge and the monitor reading ae still different, but I am hoping that after I drive it it will correct itself.

Yeah, my manual tire gauge always shows about 2 psi lower than what the dash shows for some reason. I'm not sure which one to trust?

Oh, and that wasn't the worst of it. They left filthy prints all over the front of the hood and the door, and burned a quarter tank of gas to go nowhere! I took pictures before the service as a precaution since I'd been getting really tired of buying gas after every "service"! After I got the car back (and, yes, this is the service where they also damaged my door while performing warranty "service" that I posted in another thread) I took the pictures and my Garmin in to the general manager and proved to him that my car had been running for over 90 minutes and been moved only 0.7 mile! Then I showed him the picture of the gas gauge and the DIC Avg MPG - the picture showed over 1/4 tank of gas and 18.0 MPG. After the "service" it showed nearly empty and 16.2 MPG. Hmmmm, can you connect the dots? They did, then they told me to never come back. What???? Well, with such lousy service as that I don't want to anyhow!

This sort of issue needs to be directed to the Chevrolet Regional District Manager. You may not get any personal satisfaction, and may never know what happened, but I guarantee somebody will get spanked.

In most states, a business has a right to refuse service to people with cause. But, any car manufactuer is going to very concerned with a Dealership that refuses service to one of their cars especially if that car is under warranty whether or not the service in question is warranty related.

Thanks for the great information above. I cut down the right rear (Eagle LS2) during the week. Big slash in the sidewall. The two rears weren't in great shape anyway. Had the rear two replaced locally and the TPMS sensors were backwards. RR reading the LR and LR reading the RR. I checked here and still wasn't confident.

I called my friend who is a mechanic at a local Chevy dealer and asked him if he had a reset tool at home. He said the tool they use at work sends a signal to the car and isn't a magnet. He went on to say that he'd never had luck using a magnet and I should just "run around my car".

It was fun, worked the first time. I may replace part of my morning workout with a daily reset of the TPMS. Happy New Year.

Strange, I Rotated my tires at 6,000 Miles. Never did this. Now I have 10,400 Miles and no lights. And mine does read the actual pressure in each wheel.
Escapemax

It's not that the sensor can't be read, which as you know by your experience it is being read. It's that, let's say the DIC says 'left front tire is low' but the tire the vehicle 'thinks' is the left front is really the left rear. The DIC will indicate LF tire pressure low instead of the correct tire, in this case the LR. There are individual 'serial numbers' to each sensor and all you're doing is relearning which serial number is where.