Hey everyone 1st post!!!

Well my question is regarding the gauge lighting in my new Malibu! First off I love this car!! Anyway when I get in my car in the morning after sitting out all night I notice that the gauges dont light up all the way..but after a lil while they will eventually brighten all the way. I always check my knob and it is always turned up all the way. Has anyone else noticed this? Also I do have interior leds...do these pull battery power during the night?? My windows are also tinted so I'm wondering whether or not enough light is coming in? And also If the gauges are auto dimming at night or what the deal is. Someone please help..It really bothers me..I love the way the gauges look when fully illuminated. Thanks!!

During the day they will fully iluminate, once the car's photocell senses low light it will turn on the headlights. When the Auto lights are on the gauges seem to dim quite a bit, or at least what seems to be quite a bit during the day. A perfect amount at night because at full illumination those things are bright!

Anyways, welcome to the forum. I see you have filled out your sig and profile info too, very helpful to do so. Congrats on the car, enjoy your stay and do post often.

Ok so the photocell probably just hasnt detected the light when I get in the car in the morning?? Is that why it is so low?? Because the car is usually parked in a shady spot. Also is there anyway to disable this??

Ok so the photocell probably just hasnt detected the light when I get in the car in the morning?? Is that why it is so low?? Because the car is usually parked in a shady spot. Also is there anyway to disable this??

Right! After driving off into a well lit area the auto lights will shut off and the dash fully illuminates.

There is a way to disable the photocell. Sort of permanent but it will give you full control over your lights. You would need a 1K (1000) ohm resistor, 1/2 watt (available at radio shack for 99 cents a pack). You access the photocell wires, expose the wires and solder the resistor to both wires (this puts a load on the photocell) and it will trick the car to think there is daylight (regardless if there is or not).

http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp15/silveradodude74/Untitled-6.jpg

Ok sweet!! I really appreciate it..it was beginning to worry me. I put the interior LEDS in and began then I began to notice the gauges in the AM. I was worried the LEDS were messing with the electrical system. My leds still stay glowing a little too..do you think this is a problem..do you think this pulls alot of power from the battery at night??

You put in some sort of aftermarket LED lighting? And they stay on (dimmly) during the night?

Yeah aftermarket in the map and dome..and they stay on very dim.

I've heard about that, I have no idea why they do that. I'm sure they won't be draining the battery dry anytime soon but it is something you might want to check out. There are a few members here who have swapped out OEMs with LEDs. Check this thread periodically over the next few days, give em a chance to chime in and see what they say.

Nice well thanks alot!! You were a great help!!

Your welcome. Glad to help out.

Welcome aboard! As for the LED's staying on, you most likely need to add resistors to them. Or try some others. I have them, and they do not stay on.

As for the gauges being dim, you said you park in the shade. Are you sure your headlights aren't coming on? That would make them dim and once they sense more light when they turn off the gauges would get brighter.

Here's a new wrinkle. Today I was driving while it was very overcast but not dark enough for my lights to be on until I got nearer the rainy area. When it started to rain I turned on my wipers, then later turned them down to intermittent. When the wipers are on for a period of time (15 seconds, 30 seconds, a minute - I'm not sure) that forces the headlights to turn on regardless of outside lighting. While my wipers were still on and the sky was getting brighter the dash lights suddenly went to full brightness, and yet the headlights were still on.

So it seems that the brightness of the dash lights is dictated by ambient light, not just that the headlights are on. Otherwise the dash would have remained in its dimmed state with the headlights on, but they went to full brightness.

Seems to fit the evidence, don't you agree? I guess the way to test it fully is to manually turn on the headlights in the daytime and see if the dash lights dim. (Dang, I wish I had thought of that earlier! Now I gotta wait 'til tomorrow.)

So, based on that conclusion (if indeed it's a reasonable one!), if the headlights turn on due to ambient light decreasing to the point that they do so, then the dash lights will also have a signal from the ambient light sensor to be dimmed. But, if the lights are on because the wipers force them to turn on (engineered for safety, I'd guess), then the dash lights will be fully bright or dimmed for evening use based on the ambient light sensor.

If that's true then I'd suggest not putting the resistor in parallel with the sensor (sorry elcomp) as that will keep the dash lights at full brightness even at night, a situation that will drive you blind. (Sorry, couldn't resist the pun. ;)) When the dash lights are at full brightness the dimmer control on the dash won't affect them, at least in the daytime. However, if the headlights are on then it might intervene, but that would take testing it by doing the resistor mod. Catch 22, eh?

Here's a new wrinkle. Today I was driving while it was very overcast but not dark enough for my lights to be on until I got nearer the rainy area. When it started to rain I turned on my wipers, then later turned them down to intermittent. When the wipers are on for a period of time (15 seconds, 30 seconds, a minute - I'm not sure) that forces the headlights to turn on regardless of outside lighting. While my wipers were still on and the sky was getting brighter the dash lights suddenly went to full brightness, and yet the headlights were still on.

So it seems that the brightness of the dash lights is dictated by ambient light, not just that the headlights are on. Otherwise the dash would have remained in its dimmed state with the headlights on, but they went to full brightness.

Seems to fit the evidence, don't you agree? I guess the way to test it fully is to manually turn on the headlights in the daytime and see if the dash lights dim. (Dang, I wish I had thought of that earlier! Now I gotta wait 'til tomorrow.)

So, based on that conclusion (if indeed it's a reasonable one!), if the headlights turn on due to ambient light decreasing to the point that they do so, then the dash lights will also have a signal from the ambient light sensor to be dimmed. But, if the lights are on because the wipers force them to turn on (engineered for safety, I'd guess), then the dash lights will be fully bright or dimmed for evening use based on the ambient light sensor.

If that's true then I'd suggest not putting the resistor in parallel with the sensor (sorry elcomp) as that will keep the dash lights at full brightness even at night, a situation that will drive you blind. (Sorry, couldn't resist the pun. ;)) When the dash lights are at full brightness the dimmer control on the dash won't affect them, at least in the daytime. However, if the headlights are on then it might intervene, but that would take testing it by doing the resistor mod. Catch 22, eh?

How did you know if the headlights were still on if the dash was fully illuminated? Did you exit the car and see em on along with the running lights, not the DRLs?

I disabled the Autolight feature in my Silverado. The only time I don't have control over the headlights is when the wipers have turned on (after being on for 30 seconds IIRC), the headlights turn on for safety reasons. I think the photocell can only distinguish between daylight and low light, turn on headlights because there isn't enough light out or leave em off because there is enough daylight. Hard for me to believe it will "decide" whether or not to fully illuminate the dash depending if it is very dark or kinda dark. Does that make sense?

How did you know if the headlights were still on if the dash was fully illuminated? Did you exit the car and see em on along with the running lights, not the DRLs?
Good question! I always had such a difficult time trying to figure out when the lights were on. If I wasn't sure I'd have to get out and run alongside the car to see. Man, let me tell you, I was really winded trying to keep up at 50 mph! Actually, I have a small red LED in the sunroof/dome light overhead console to let me know when they're on. I installed it originally to indicate when the fog lights were on, but later put another one in the instrument cluster bezel then repurposed the overhead one to indicate when the headlights are on.

I have my DRLs running on the front turns now instead of the headlights. I favor the turns over the heads for several reasons. A) I won't be burning out the more expensive bulbs as quickly. B) Amber is more visible during full or reduced daytime lighting (see quote below)

Quote taken from the following source:
http://ec.europa.eu/transport/road_safety/vehicles/doc/consultations/drl_all_quality_enterprises_llc.pdf

Significant evidence from multiple sources confirms that AMBER DRL technology has distinct advantages and
superiority above and beyond current headlight or white light DRL technology. Seven reasons this technology is
the future of proactive motor vehicle dayt ime collision avoidance:
· Photometric comparative studies emphatically prove AMBER lighting has superior visibility when compared
to all other vehicular signal lighting colors. Experts explain this is true because the human eye is more sensitive to
the middle visible light wavelengths like AMBER, and perceives these colors as being brighter for the same
amount of radiant energy.
· Most DRL effectiveness studies are based on low beam headlights, and findings show that the poorest
performing options, such as low beam headlights, are probably ineffective on bright days and only marginally
effective on all but dull days [Paine & Fisher {US -1996}, & Paine {AU-2003}].
· GM’s own studies {SAE study #203 -01-2072} show their similar -acting turn signal DRLs to be superior to
the other 5 known white light DRL types that GM has used on vehicles since 1990 (including full power low
beam headlights). AMBER turn signal DRLs offer a reduction in collision rates that are 1.4 times more effective
than the next best white light DRL type, and are 5.4 times better than the least effective DRL type.
· AMBER DRLs are proven by Australia’s leading DRL expert to counteract a ‘latitude effect,’ in which white
light’s daytime effectiveness diminishes the closer one is to the Earth’s equator.
· AMBER or yellow light is one of the most visible of all the colors in the light spectrum; it is conspicuous in
all lighting conditions and can be seen from the farthest distances.
· All motor vehicles already possess vastly underutilized AMBER front turn sig nals as a natural resource; these
are simply waiting to be harnessed for daytime safety and bad weather purposes.
· Where headlights are center -aimed at the ground 40 to 50 meters ahead, turn signals are pointed at the other
driver’s eyes and typically have a wider-angle output than headlights or white light DRLs.
The sixth bullet point above is just sales talk and I don't think it's a good enough reason to choose amber over white. It's included to ensure that I've made a complete quote rather than a partial one.

I disabled the Autolight feature in my Silverado. The only time I don't have control over the headlights is when the wipers have turned on (after being on for 30 seconds IIRC), the headlights turn on for safety reasons. I think the photocell can only distinguish between daylight and low light, turn on headlights because there isn't enough light out or leave em off because there is enough daylight. Hard for me to believe it will "decide" whether or not to fully illuminate the dash depending if it is very dark or kinda dark. Does that make sense?
Another very good question. Last night when I posted this I was trying to logic out how the sensor is used by the car. Well, daylight has finally arrived so I went out and conducted a few tests.

1) I started the car and let the headlights operate automatically. Even though it was light out, it was still "dark" enough that it turned on the headlights. I parked the car with the front aimed toward the sunrise (overcast today) and it took about 10 minutes before the headlights finally turned off, and so did my LED indicator. While they were on I turned the dimmer control and adjusted the dash lights, which is normal. After they turned off I turned the dimmer up and down, and like normal the dash lights stayed at full brightness.

2) I squirted a little washer fluid and set the wipers to intermittent. After about half a minute (sorry, no stopwatch) the headlights turned on, as did my LED indicator, and the dash lights remained at full brightness. When I operated the dimmer there was no effect on the dash lights. I turned off the wipers and about half a minute later the headlights turned off as well. Dash lights remained at full brightness.

3) I turned on the headlights manually at the MFS: dash lights stayed at full brightness, no effect when operating the dimmer.

I was gonna test this anyhow, and I'm really glad to see that you're also interested in how the systems in our cars function. It lets us know how to make changes and cause them do what we want instead of being surprised.

If installing a resistor across the leads of the sensor causes the system to see the sensor as having full daylight, then that signal will inevitably tell the dash lights to be at full brightness as well. That's just logic, not empirical data, but it seems to follow how the system functions as indicated above. Of course, I've been called a mindless twit before, so maybe this logic isn't so logical. ;)

Does that make sense to you also or do you think that it will operate differently? Based on how your Silverado works it sounds like there's a difference between them and the ones in our Malibus. Of course I could also be off-base big time!

Sidebar: I found the profile page and updated mine to indicate year, submodel, and color. There wasn't enough room to spell out metallic but everyone should get the drift.

Your right. I shouldn't have doubted you on whether the headlights were on or not (I forgot you didn't have regular DRLs), my mistake and I apologize. I should have known you are more aware of whats going on with your Bu than most.:o

Even though these GM vehicles do have similar technology in them doesn't mean they are identical in features. Now that you have done some testing I can believe that the photocell can distinguish what the lighting conditions are and choose to light the dash at full illumination or at a lower adjustable illumination (for nighttime driving). A huge difference between my Silverado and Malibu are that while the vehicles are on, the dash illuminates on the Malibu (I think because the gauges are so hidden and it would be difficult to see them unless the lit up) and they do not in my Silverado. A feature I would love to have in my truck! I have a hard time seeing the gauge cluster sometimes, I have all the windows tinted so the interior gets pretty dark sometimes.

Sidebar: I found the profile page and updated mine to indicate year, submodel, and color. There wasn't enough room to spell out metallic but everyone should get the drift.

It was already lengthened for more room (some names get long) but I think your ok.

A simpler way is to just manually turn off auto-lamps every morning if it's causing you problems.. just twist the light control down to disable auto lights for the duration of your vehicle being on.

elcompaLalo, no need whatsoever to apologize! I was in no way offended by anything you've siad. I only hope that my post didn't offend you, or anyone else for that matter.

And I'll bet you have a quick and dirty way to fix those dash lights already built into your Silverado! See if you have a separate fuse for the dash illumination. My old '97 Pontiac did, as did several older 80's and 90's vehicles I've owned.

The one you're looking for will probably be a 4A fuse. Usually it's energized only when the dash is lighted. Go down to the auto parts store and get an Add-A-Circuit. The way it works is you remove the fuse and plug this in its place. It has room for two fuses: one is the fuse you just took out (it ends up just being physically relocated) and the other is a new fuse for a new circuit.

Well, what we do is repurpose this little device (like I've done in my 'Bu!!) to let you redirect what circuit gets what. Proceed this way: Turn on the parking lights and check to see that the dash lights are lit. Pull the 4A (I'll say it's a 4A just for the sake of this how-to - it may be different) fuse out. Check to see that the dash lights are no longer lit. If pulling the 4A turns them off then we can use this method. If not, stop here and send me a PM so I can dig into it more.

Next, with the 4A pulled out, the dash lights no longer lit, and the parking light switch on, use a test light to see which contact of the fuse supplies the 12V and which side is "dead". The "dead" side goes to the dash lights. Remember this side, and let's call it "E". Turn off the parking lights.

The device (Add-A-Circuit) has a wire coming off of it for one of the contacts in the new circuit. The other contact is wired to the one on the same end as the relocated original circuit. The wired contact we'll call "W" and the other one we'll call "D". Put the 4A fuse into the new circuit, then plug the device into the original fuse location so that D plugs into E. Find a source of 12V that's live only when the key is on, then wire it to W. Done.

CAUTION!!! Make sure you don't put a fuse into the spot on the device for the relocated original fuse, as that will restore normal operation but also (WARNING!!!) feed 12V during parking light use through both 4A fuses to whatever is wired to W, or whatever 12V is wired to W will feed through both 4A fuses to the rest of the headlight circuit. This might cause one or both fuses to expire, or worse, some damage to another system.

What you should end up with is dash lights that illuminate all the time that the key is on, and parking lights that light up only with the switch or the sensor.

Again, when using the device in this manner you will put a fuse in the new circuit only and permanently NOT use the relocated socket. (Just covering myself legally.)

DISCLAIMER: Anyone who uses part or all of this tutorial does so at their own risk. I am in no way responsible for any damage of any kind, whether to individuals living or deceased, equipment, or loss of income. And Elvis is dead.

LOL.......no offense whatsoever.

Sweet! You always put these darn things into perspective, thanks DrivenDaily. I'll mess with it later today.