Every oil change i use a different oil just to see which one out of all of them work the best. For this oil change i am using royal purple. I didnt look to see if this is compatible with my car, do you think it is?

and also, i got it in 10w-30. Do you guys use that or the 5w?

Royal Purple is one of the top brands in the extended drain interval application. The current consensus on http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ appears to be that even most dino oils are good enough for the factory drain interval. 10W30 tends to be on the thicker side than 5W30 when warmed up and thus may be better for the summer months. It really depends on how much viscosity improvers they add to achieve the desired rating. Less viscosity improvers actually means more stable oil over its life.

Can't really top his reply^^^ He knows his oil. Me i use Royal Purple at 10w-30. That is during summer time here in SoCal. When sitting in traffic at a slow pace i'd like an oil thats litter more thicker then 5W. When winter rolls in i have them pour 5W back in. Basically i do 6 months at 10W and 6 months at 5W.

Every oil change i use a different oil just to see which one out of all of them work the best. For this oil change i am using royal purple. I didnt look to see if this is compatible with my car, do you think it is?

just wondering....how are you determining which one out of all of them worked the best?

Like when there was penzoil it didnt have the quickness as the valvoline, and at like 5 grand it would stutter. So no more penzoil i figure.

Like when there was penzoil it didnt have the quickness as the valvoline, and at like 5 grand it would stutter. So no more penzoil i figure.

No way oil of the same viscosity could make that notable of a difference, unless there is an issue elsewhere.

Some people claim that certain oils are better/worse for valve tapping and/or piston slap. Given that one xW30 oil may be slightly thinner or thicker than another of the same nominal viscosity rating, I don't really have reason to doubt. Also, an oil's viscosity will change over its life. After mulling over the whole problem of PCV, blow-by, and oil mist in the intake, I think mc's 5K-RPM stutter is actually plausible.

Ya' know... it's not really good for the car to be switching oils all the time. Pick one brand/type and stick with it... and once you go full synthetic NEVER go back to dino oil. You can never get all the oil out of the engine when you change it... so your car now has oils of several different types moving around inside it, not a very pretty picture.

My preferences for synthetic oil, after reading into all the specifications of the oils, would be Amsoil 5W-30 or 0W-30 extended interval and Schaeffer's which is comparable to Amsoil. Valvoline would come third since it come out on top for being easily purchased almost anywhere. I haven't heard too many good things about Royal Purple, but it is better than, I know this will start an argument but it is my opinion, Mobil 1. I had so many issues with burning Mobil 1 in my ram so I switch to Schaeffer's and had absolutely no issues. Honestly, I refuse to run Mobil 1 anymore after comparing everything. Bob is the oil guy is a great site to learn all about different oils.

Yeah i just completely flushed it a couple times...but im hoping with royal purple itll perform nicely.

call me a skeptic...and certainly not the most knowledgeable gearhead on here....but the idea of constantly switching motor oils just doesn't have much appeal for me. BITOG is a great resource, so I choose a good oil based on that and stick with it.

and....some of the flushes out there would NEVER go in my motors.

Some people claim that certain oils are better/worse for valve tapping and/or piston slap. Given that one xW30 oil may be slightly thinner or thicker than another of the same nominal viscosity rating, I don't really have reason to doubt. Also, an oil's viscosity will change over its life. After mulling over the whole problem of PCV, blow-by, and oil mist in the intake, I think mc's 5K-RPM stutter is actually plausible.

Some different oils helping a valve tick or something like that makes sense. If one oil, of the same viscosity is making the car "stutter" at a certain rpm, something else is wrong or it's a placebo effect. The oil would have to be MUCH thicker to do that, even then doubtful. Oil is a lubricant and to cause something like that the oil would have to be VERY old and broken down.

I ran my Cobalt SS purely on Mobil 1, as was dealer reccomended. I also had the dealership perform all the services and oil changes exactly as called for in the owner's manual. Never had a lick of trouble out of that car in the 4 years that I owned it.

With the Malibu I'm going to stick with whatever regular oil the dealer uses. It's been serviced at dealers its whole life and I'm certainly not going to go changing things at 36xxxx miles. The engine is well broken in by now... and if it ain't broke don't fix it.

I have heard mixed reviews from numerous Cobalt SS and Corvette owners on the Royal Purple products. Some swear by it, and some won't touch it with a 10' pole. IMO these cars aren't racers and the engines aren't being run in a high enough state of tune to warrant the extra expenditure for a "performance" motor oil. If you are taking your car to the strip or autocross course every weekend or like to do some after-hours street racing you might see some gains... but I seriously doubt that covers anyone here. With most of my driving the engine never sees over 4000RPM, so I'll save the money on expensive oils and have a few more brews on the weekend instead.

EDIT: The "oil mist in the intake" you are seeing is from the crank-case vent line that is being dumped back into the intake. At high RPMs the air blows out of the crank case and carries some oil with it. It is part of the emissions control system and the amount is so small that is really won't hurt anything.

The Cobalt SS does the same thing. If you really don't like it, take off the hose and put a little metal mesh filter over the opening instead. Plug the hole in your intake with a rubber cap and off you go, problem solved. Don't use a paper or cloth filter b/c the oil can eventually soak it and become a fire hazard.

EDIT: The "oil mist in the intake" you are seeing is from the crank-case vent line that is being dumped back into the intake. At high RPMs the air blows out of the crank case and carries some oil with it. It is part of the emissions control system and the amount is so small that is really won't hurt anything.

The Cobalt SS does the same thing. If you really don't like it, take off the hose and put a little metal mesh filter over the opening instead. Plug the hole in your intake with a rubber cap and off you go, problem solved. Don't use a paper or cloth filter b/c the oil can eventually soak it and become a fire hazard.

Uh oh, this is becoming too much like a BITOG thread.:D Okay, I do understand Silver's skepticism. But, I actually find mc's 5K-RPM stutter plausible. As oil ages, it sheers down and becomes thinner and thus more volatile. Of course, the loss of volatile compounds eventually makes it thicker, tar-like. I'm thinking that there's a point where the volatile compounds escaping as oil mists combined with excessive blow-bys (from the thinner oil film on cylinder walls) will interfere with the combustion process at high RPMs, arguably depending on the condition of the motor. Perhaps the particular Pennzoil oil mc used had poor sheering characteristics, perhaps it was from a bad batch, perhaps he picked up a jug that someone returned filled with another, cheaper oil. Since I was not there in person, I can only go by what mc says happened.

Well ive had royal purple in it now for the past couple days, and i am not switching to anything but the royal.

Ya' know... it's not really good for the car to be switching oils all the time. Pick one brand/type and stick with it... and once you go full synthetic NEVER go back to dino oil. You can never get all the oil out of the engine when you change it... so your car now has oils of several different types moving around inside it, not a very pretty picture.

Wow, your post is so full of wrongness and old school way of thinking that it's not even funny. Do you still believe in the 3mo/3000 mi OCI?

A) Use whatever oil you want it's not going to hurt a thing.
B) Synthetic to dino and dino to synthetic doesn't matter. Why is it okay to switch from dino to synthetic but not the other way around? Kind of silly logic when you think about it. I went from dino to Synthetic on my Grand Am with no problems and I went from Dino to Synthetic to Dino on my Mazda. No issues whatsoever.