Hi all

New to forum.. I have a 2004 LT that is used as are spare car so it sits for days or weeks on end.. I just replaced the battery 2 days ago and today went to move it and was completely dead... so I jumped it and drove around for alittle bit.. came back home let it sit for an hour, opened hood and put my amp meter on the positive side. Started pulling fuses.. I found one drawing quite a bit.. Fuse 19 a run relay underhood fuse panel.. so far I only notice that it controls blower for ac/heat.. Has anyone run into this problem or have a suggestion on why the blowers is drawing power with no key in ignition?

Thanks

See if you can find the relay or relays (some cars use more than one) that run the AC/blower motor. The contacts might be fused together, or the spring on the coil might be weakened to the point that it can no longer turn the circuit off. If you pull it (or them) and the problem goes away, then the fix could be as simple as replacing it (or them) with new.

what happens is i'll pull fuse 19 (30amp) out of panel under hood and go and start car. all displays work and i can adjust the digital climate control and everything works as normal with the exception of the blower not working. As soon as I pop the fuse pack in the blower works. when car is off and fuse is in I'll hear a humming noise from back of firewall and draws constant amps. I'll try a couple of relays with fuses out and see how that works.

I hope its not blower what a pain to take dash apart.

thanks

A 30A fuse? It's probably not the blower motor itself, then. I'd work backwards and see which relay powers (or, is it powered by) fuse 19 and then which circuit energizes that particular relay. It may well be the relay itself like DrivenDaily said.

what happens is i'll pull fuse 19 (30amp) out of panel under hood and go and start car. all displays work and i can adjust the digital climate control and everything works as normal with the exception of the blower not working. As soon as I pop the fuse pack in the blower works. when car is off and fuse is in I'll hear a humming noise from back of firewall and draws constant amps. I'll try a couple of relays with fuses out and see how that works.

I hope its not blower what a pain to take dash apart.

thanks

Sounds very much like the relay(s) is the issue. Keep digging! If there has been too much current but not enough to blow the fuse then the motor or wiring may also be at fault, so beware of just replacing the relay if that is what you find.

@Starship - appreciate the support! :)

You need to service the battery cables if not buy new ones for it. Those years of Malibus (Nbodys) have a lot of electrical problems because of poor battery power.

No follow up to original problem
Has the issue been resolved?
I have the same yr car with exactly same problem, drawing over 4 amp with the car off.
Removed run relay fuse #19 and car working without it, of course no air conditioner.
I don't agree with the battery cables change recommendation.
I am looking to check the blower resistor, which seems to be most guilty party, but have problem taking out blower cover which is under glove box.
Two clips right in front under glove box pops easy, but there is one in the back that I looked and can't see how to release without breaking.
Any help for removing cover and feed back on original problem if a solution was found appreciated
After owning the car for 6 yrs and having this problem, I did some internet search and found out that is really a lemon car w/ gm refusing to have any recall until some people get killed
Most worrysome problem steering column, which I had 3 replacement so far

I am looking to check the blower resistor, which seems to be most guilty party, but have problem taking out blower cover which is under glove box.
Two clips right in front under glove box pops easy, but there is one in the back that I looked and can't see how to release without breaking.

Would this drawing http://cid-54465800aad91b49.office.live.com/self.aspx/pub/HVAC.GIF help you visualize the location of the fastener? Also, if you fill in your vehicle information in the user CP, we may be able to look you up diagrams that are specific to your vehicle.

Thanks starship
It helped a bit, it was just a pull down clamp
Looked so easy afterward
Pulled the module out, don't know why people call it resistor pack.
Is anything but a resistor pack.
It is a signal controller which internally contain diodes and amp
Checked it out looks good but going to replace it anyway, has a pin going directly to 12 volts. which more than likely route cause of problem

Hmm, Is there a part number on that piece, because you may be looking at something else? Like I said earlier, if you let us know the details like what year and trim level or engine size, auto/manual A/C, etc., we may be able to pull you up wiring diagrams.