So I'm thinking it might be or maybe the connector needs to sprayed down. For the longest time, it's always gone down and up a little slower than the other three (they go up at the regular speed). Well last night, I went to put up my front two windows. Now it had rained for maybe a minute if that and the door panels were a little wet, the seats and carpet were dry. As I went to put them up, the driver front went up a little slowly and the passenger front window wouldn't go up at all at first. After playing with it for a little while, it went up, but very slowly. So today, I went to put my windows down and they went down no problem, like normal. So I played with the passenger window a little and it would go up and down no problem a few times until the fourth time it wouldn't go then it did after a couple more times. Other than that, both windows are fine. Could it be just from the water or should I look at the connection and clean it with the connection spray? The entire time, I used the switch on the driver door to put the windows up. Ladies and gents?

I've actually seen this caused by dirty or worn switch contacts. I came across my friend at the laundromat one Sunday morning and he said he had to reach across to the passenger side switch to raise that window. With just a few hand tools I took his master switch assembly out of the driver's door, opened it up, cleaned the contacts, bent them just a tad, and put it all back together. Voila! Power windows as they were meant to be.

You could be suffering from a similar issue. Disassembling the master switch assembly isn't hard, but you have to be very careful to observe where things come from so you can put them back. Prying open the ears on a plastic body is also a little tricky, but care and patience wins the day.

Your windows are designed so that both legs coming from the motor go to the switch and at rest both contacts are grounded. Then, when you select either up or down the appropriate leg is energized, leaving the other grounded and thus completing the circuit. If the contacts are pitted or burned, or worse if they're warped from excessive amperage, then you might be able to swap them around with another window's components. If not then examine and clean the contact surfaces very carefully (delicate pieces!) and check for proper alignment.

One other issue that could be happening is the motor's gearbox (probably plastic gears like they've been using for decades now) might be stripped or severely worn. In this case, replace with new or find some good ones at the junk yard.

The motor brushes could also be compromised, especially if you've been operating them a lot at reduced speed. The lower voltage coming through the switches (if that's true) means that at the same wattage, the amperage will increase, possibly making them burn up or pit more quickly.

The switch operates a relay. I would have to look in the factory service manual but it may tell the BCM to operate the relay. Anyway it could just be the relay. Its most likely in the fuse panel on 1 side of the dash or the other. The cover identifys them. Try switching it with one of the rear ones and see if that moves the problem to the other window.

Actually the switch does tell the BCM to operate the window relay. When the temp door servo went out I hooked my laptop up and accessed the BCM. One of the functions I could operate from the laptop was the windows. So the switch only sends a signal to the BCM. It tells the relay to power the window. Anyway all should be the same except the drivers as that is auto down. Try a relay from one of the rear windows and if the problem moves to that window replace the relay. If not it may be the motor or even the switch or BCM. If the door switch has the same effect its the BCM or the motor. The BCM just grounds the relay so it should either work or not work. It should not effect the speed. I would check the relay first as it is easy and cheap. The relay contacts do get pitted as windows draw a lot of power. That would explain the slow movement and sometimes it works and sometimes not. Living in western Washington we don't worry about window problems as it never stops raining long enough to roll them down.

Actually the switch does tell the BCM to operate the window relay. When the temp door servo went out I hooked my laptop up and accessed the BCM. One of the functions I could operate from the laptop was the windows. So the switch only sends a signal to the BCM. It tells the relay to power the window. Anyway all should be the same except the drivers as that is auto down. Try a relay from one of the rear windows and if the problem moves to that window replace the relay. If not it may be the motor or even the switch or BCM. If the door switch has the same effect its the BCM or the motor. The BCM just grounds the relay so it should either work or not work. It should not effect the speed. I would check the relay first as it is easy and cheap. The relay contacts do get pitted as windows draw a lot of power. That would explain the slow movement and sometimes it works and sometimes not. Living in western Washington we don't worry about window problems as it never stops raining long enough to roll them down.

I'm truly curious about this! I've worked on a number of different car windows, Fords, Chryslers, and GMs. I've never seen relays operate the windows. I'm not saying it ain't so, but I'm also finding it quite hard to accept this new information. Can you direct me to a schematic of this so I don't go and stick a foot in my mouth?

Every other car, older than the '03 you have and the OP is working on, and my '09 'Bu, have heavy gauge wiring to the switches and down to the motors. If the '03 is different then I'd be obliged if you'd help me learn about this curious evolution that seems to have been deleted in newer models.

OK I got the GM manual out. You are right this car has A basic system. Its my truck that the BCM controls the windows. That makes sense as the Malibu is a low to mid range car and would not be offered with remote controlled windows. That is an option on my truck although I don't have it. I think its more common on the GMCs or Caddys. I knew I had played with the windows on one of our vehicles but was wrong about which one. I scanned the schematic but its to big to attach here. If the OP needs it you can pm me an email and I will send it to you. I should have looked in the manual before I posted.

The door lock solinoids are individually controlled by the BCM. It obviously needs to know the state of the individual locks for security. I think duramax was having a bad day.:(

No the truck is BCM controlled. I just thought it was the Malibu as its the only one I have had BCM problems with. I looked in the truck manual and it is BCM controlled. There is an optional input for the key fob to open or close all windows.

Okay, our posts went into one of those race conditions. I was responding to DrivenDaily's post #5.

@ duramax: Thanks! That's good info for me to put in my tool box - your truck has a remote option and it would require 2 relays per window.

@ Starship: On the 'Bu there is an output for the driver's door unlock, and 2 for the other 3 doors. On the schematic it just shows the outputs on the BCM, but I'd wager there are relays inside to run the lock motors. One for the driver door unlock, one for the other 3 doors' unlock, and one for the all-doors' lock. Unless the car isn't optioned with driver's private remote unlock, in which case I'll bet that the BCM has one less relay along with the non-options for certain other things.

On the 'Bu there is an output for the driver's door unlock, and 2 for the other 3 doors. On the schematic it just shows the outputs on the BCM, but I'd wager there are relays inside to run the lock motors. One for the driver door unlock, one for the other 3 doors' unlock, and one for the all-doors' lock. Unless the car isn't optioned with driver's private remote unlock, in which case I'll bet that the BCM has one less relay along with the non-options for certain other things.

D'oh! I was thinking my ION (only 2 door lock solenoids). Guess who was having a bad day after all?:o

Thanks everyone for the detailed information. The window seems to be fine now, but I'll check all the connections and clean them and make sure everything is alright. Other than this little problem, the car is running great.