Hello new to the forum, We bought a 2009 ls in august great car. My wife wanted a remote start system for her birthday, so she got it, now I have been searching for a schematic for the car to install the system. Not sure on which diagrams i would need for sure, but would like to have all i could(for future use as well) all help is appreciated....

Hello new to the forum, We bought a 2009 ls in august great car. My wife wanted a remote start system for her birthday, so she got it, now I have been searching for a schematic for the car to install the system. Not sure on which diagrams i would need for sure, but would like to have all i could(for future use as well) all help is appreciated....

Welcome to the forum!

I can put you in touch with the schematics. Since this is your first post I'd like to encourage you to post some pics (at least one) of your car, and maybe put one in your sig like some of us do.

Were you aware that (for a price) the dealership can get a factory remote start installed for you and it works with the car? (Unless that's what she already got, but it sounds like it's an aftermarket one.) Would you be willing to share what brand or model of RS you got? Is it a two-way? (Had one - it was great!)

I have used products from BullDog Security and they offer wiring charts for many vehicles. Here is a link to their site that tell you the what wires do what and what colors they are.

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/diagram.asp?ModelID=20072&MakeID=54&link=Bulldog

sorry, its not much just a 2009 ls, with titanium interior. We bought it because someone pulled out in front of my wife with her 2002 impala ls and totaled it, sucks 2 payments until it was paid off. Our rental was a white lt with black interior 4 cyl 6 spd, LOVED it and so we bought this one, its not the 6spd we wanted but it only had 12k miles and everything else we found in the area had 28k or more miles on it. The kit is aftermarket, i didnt even bother with calling the dealership to see if they would install one, i just figured it be a outrageous price. I got the Autopage C3-RS730 LCD, it is a 2 way and has an alarm. The alarm wasnt much needed but I want to install headrest monitors because we have two young girls. I frequent another forum for fullsize gm trucks and they all said autopage is a good brand so thats what lead me to that. sorry lots of writing heres a couple pics...

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/2168/img0990z.jpg
http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/775/img0994m.jpg

Wow, I like! Thanks for the pics!

And don't worry, that wasn't a lot of writing - it was an easy read and enjoyable. The '09 I traded was a 2LT, black, with all-black interior. Loved the car but wanted one with more than one color. But it was still my first one, so seeing yours brings back good memories.

Here's a link to my DropBox file for the schematics to the 2008 Malibu. It can be used for the 2009 as well. The only difference I found was the turn signal repeaters in the front fenders were features found only on the '08 models and discontinued after that. The rest of the wiring was right on every time I modified mine, and I did a lot!

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4191695/08_chevy_malibu_complete.pdf

I sure hope you stick around the site, learn more, and offer your insights.

I plan to stick around. I hate the titanium interior, with 2 young ones things show up real easy. i loved the cocoa/cashmere interior and i have always been a big fan of black in anything. Id like to add a couple things like the chrome hubcaps(the ltz 18s are just to pricey) painted mirrors, ltz grille and i found some chrome strips for the center pillars, not sure how they would look though and tint the windows a little bit, paint the front bowtie demold the rear trunk lid, and of course the ltz foglights look great but looks like a i need a whole new front clip for them? not sure.

ooo yea i found some black leather stock covers on ebay a while back for cheap and almost bought them, so maybe i will keep my eye out on something in the future as well

i almost forgot thanks for the diagrams, VERY helpful

My pleasure!

I have the cocoa/cashmere interior and I really like it! I'd love to trade someone who has the chrome LTZ wheels for my painted ones but that's never gonna happen. The LTZ foglights don't require an whole new front clip, just the fog filler panels and the lights. Then your option is to either install the factory switch and PAY the dealership to program the BCM to recognize, or put in your own switch and relay for a lot less money!

ive been looking over this thing, and watching videos on youtube, wow this is nuts. One video did a mustang gt and most every plug all the wires went to one place or another and so on seemed pretty simple but looking over the schematics it dont seem that way. Another big thing is that it looks like most of the wires are gonna have to be added to.

That's part of the fun - wiring! I say that 'cuz I enjoy wiring, always have.

The schematics show wires running all over the place, but what you'd want to do is find out if most of the connections are at one BCM or another, or if you can split them up into groups that go to specific areas of the car, like one out under the hood, one to the BCM at the console, etc. Then physically lay out the wires on the floor (garage, front room) until you've identified where all of them are going, or if you're not using certain ones. That way you can group the wires of the RS and make your connections easier to figure out.

You'll need a hood switch, possibly a brake switch, a neutral switch, and some others depending on your options. On the 'Bu the "brake switch" is actually not a switch, so to mimic one you can find the brake light (under hood fuse box) and either use the 12V output as your trigger or have it operate a relay then use its contacts as your switch. (A relay is safer because you're not endangering the stock circuit.) For a neutral switch you can possibly use the P and N lights on the shifter to energize a relay - use diodes to join both inputs to one side of the coil.

The hardest part, IMHO, will be to get around the PassKey to start the car. Once that's accomplished you're all set. I'd start with finding how to energize the right systems so that the car will be ready to run, then have a switch wired to act as the cranking signal to see if it starts and runs.

You've probably already thought through this, though. I hope it turns out well. Post up any questions that arise or discoveries that might help us out.

Well, its still not installed, most of it seems well fairly easy, untill i get to the alarm/safety part of it. My biggest question right now is, and excuse me im not sure how to word this well, there are 2 heavy guage, fused red power wires. The diagrams i got on how/where to connect wires all show just one 12volt constant connection. The manual says and ill quote

remove the 2 20a fuses prior to connecting these wires and do not replace them unstill the satellite has been plugged into the control module. these wires are the source of current for all the circuits the relay satellite will energize. they must be connected to a high current source. since the factory supplies (+) 12v to the key switch that is used to operate the motor, it is recomended that these wires be connected there. Note: if the factory supplies two separate +12v feeds to the ignition switch, connect one red wires of the sattelite to each feed at the switch.

So im taking it that, i only need to connect one wire and not both? do i have this right? both wires run along side each other and are in the same pigtail but plug into the module at different spots, if that makes sense.

Well, its still not installed, most of it seems well fairly easy, untill i get to the alarm/safety part of it. My biggest question right now is, and excuse me im not sure how to word this well, there are 2 heavy guage, fused red power wires. The diagrams i got on how/where to connect wires all show just one 12volt constant connection. The manual says and ill quote

1 remove the 2 20a fuses prior to connecting these wires and do not replace them unstill the 2 satellite has been plugged into the 3 control module. these wires are the source of current for all the circuits the relay satellite will energize. they must be connected to a 4 high current source. since the factory supplies (+) 12v to the key switch that is used to operate the motor, it is recomended that these wires be connected there. Note: if the factory supplies two separate +12v feeds to the ignition switch, connect one red wires of the sattelite to each feed at the switch.

So im taking it that, i only need to connect one wire and not both? do i have this right? both wires run along side each other and are in the same pigtail but plug into the module at different spots, if that makes sense.

By the numbers indicated above:
1. The 2 20A fuses are on the new RKE device? (Remote Keyless Entry)
2. The satellite is what?
3. The control module is what?
4. A source of high current on the car can be found at the BCM / fuse box that is under the front right side of the console. Pull the cover off from the passenger side to find it. If you need battery (hot at all times) or some other switched power, you can probably find it there.

Pretty sure I read a thread on here that stated that the dealerships were installing remote starts for around the mid $200's.

So im taking it that, i only need to connect one wire and not both? do i have this right? both wires run along side each other and are in the same pigtail but plug into the module at different spots, if that makes sense.

You definitely need to connect both red wires. It is just saying that if the car happens to have two ignition wires that you should connect one red wire to one ignition wire and the other red wire to the other ignition wire. It takes quite a bit of juice to crank the starter...

well i emailed the company and asked for a diagram for the malibu, SUCCESS, they emailed a diagram that told me where to connect every wire in the kit, where the wire is in the car and the color. Still though it doesnt show anything about connecting both red wires.
heres what it says

Battery RED/WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
FOR HIGH CURRENT APPLICATIONS GO TO THE BCM (RED/BLACK) OR THE BATTERY

so should i connect one to the bcm red/black wire and one to the red/white wire at the ignition?

Pretty sure I read a thread on here that stated that the dealerships were installing remote starts for around the mid $200's.

Im pretty sure that was to program the car for it if you had the remotes. They way i understand it is that the cars come with it already installed, you just have to buy the remote and get it programmed. BUT i also believe that this was only on ltz and some lt cars, not the ls, mines the ls

well i emailed the company and asked for a diagram for the malibu, SUCCESS, they emailed a diagram that told me where to connect every wire in the kit, where the wire is in the car and the color. Still though it doesnt show anything about connecting both red wires.
heres what it says

Battery RED/WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
FOR HIGH CURRENT APPLICATIONS GO TO THE BCM (RED/BLACK) OR THE BATTERY

so should i connect one to the bcm red/black wire and one to the red/white wire at the ignition?

Now that's good service! They got back to you quickly and got you what you needed. What brand of RKE do you have? Did you buy it from the manufacturer or a reseller?

The way I would understand their instructions is this: If you intend to hook up any accessories to the RKE's outputs that draw high current, then use the larger wire at the BCM. I would just use the BCM wire regardless. That way you don't need to splice into any harness. The BCM should have a terminal available with constant battery voltage, and others with switched power, and all you need to do is plug it/them in. You may need to use an Add-A-Circuit for other switched inputs, but it's still just plug-in, not splice-in.

The way I prefer to hook things up is to have an isolation device. That's just fancy talk for a relay. If I need to operate any accessories with a device like your RKE and they draw more than a couple of amps, I have the RKE operate the coil of the relay and let the contacts of the relay switch the heavy current load. That way the RKE simply needs to have enough power to turn on a coil that draws less than a dash light and is isolated from the heavy current of the accessory. It protects the RKE from damage. If the accessory shorts out it'll take a hit on the extra relay and fuse (fuse on the input lead) and keep the RKE safe. Cheap insurance.

Remote starters have relays built into them. There is no need to further isolate it. Your Autopage has one power wire that has a 3 amp fuse to power the remote starter "brain," which triggers the built in relays. The two red wires with the 20 amp fuses are used to supply the current for the relays. The output of these built in relays then feeds the starter and ignition wires.

This is definitely a "High Current" application. You could either connect both of these to the red/black wire at the BCM, or better yet, run a new cable (probably 10 gauge) directly from the battery (seperately fused near the battery of course) to connect all four 12 volt inputs to.

It sounds like this particular system is designed to be grafted onto unnatural places. Am I the only one who thinks this is just nuts? I'd hate to be the hapless techie who has to fix some obscure electronics problem later. And, way too many problems nowadays are electronics.