Now actual mileage here- not estimated on the trip thingie.
I have been getting about 23-24 MAX on my 4 cyl.

Have you seen a increase as it breaks in?
How about you v6 people? your actual combined average....

I guess I am interested in teh V6 mileage- is it much off of my low ass 4 banger mileage...;)

Now actual mileage here- not estimated on the trip thingie.
I have been getting about 23-24 MAX on my 4 cyl.


First, my "trip thingie" has been very close to manual calculations.

Second, if you had any steady highway trips on which you only got 24......then something is drastically wrong or you need to slow down A LOT. ;)

My wife drives it mostly. It looks like she is getting about what you report around town for mostly short trips.

My only highway check got about 33.

For me, I have the 2010 Bu' LS. Currently at 24K miles..I have an APP on my android that I use to calculate mpg. I enter updates at every gas-up. Gallons, Price/gallon, current odom. reading. It is a nice app. It also has reminders setup for oil, filters etc.. too.

As of this mornings fuel fill-up it states I am getting 23.076 mpg. This is ALL city driving. I am normally in the range of 20-24 mpg, according to the app and the dash info is fairly close to that.

well I use an Android app called aCar that will allow me to enter in the mileage, gallons and price /gal.

I have a 6 cyl and on my recent trip from NY to Outer Banks, NC, I averaged about 27mpg. This is with 3 people in the car and a trunk full of luggage. The highest I ever peaked was 28.8 mpg.

In the city, it is a different story. Average about 15-18 mpg. My lowest was 12.2 mpg. I must of had a lead foot that week.

I average about 25 to 27 MPG with mixed city and highway driving. Highest I ever got was 33MPG on a trip from TN to Tupelo, MS. I had two passengers both weighing over 200lbs each and some gifts. The lowest I ever got was about 22 MPG due to a lot of city driving that week, lead foot, and a lot of idling.

well I use an Android app called aCar that will allow me to enter in the mileage, gallons and price /gal.

I have a 6 cyl and on my recent trip from NY to Outer Banks, NC, I averaged about 27mpg. This is with 3 people in the car and a trunk full of luggage. The highest I ever peaked was 28.8 mpg.

In the city, it is a different story. Average about 15-18 mpg. My lowest was 12.2 mpg. I must of had a lead foot that week.



That is were the MPG are awful, City/town driving! I have seen mine go way below the 17 MPG Rating for city! You need to do a little highway driving to get up to the 17MPG. GM had got that totally wrong! Sometimes I think I get as good gas mileage with my F-150 truck around town! My highest peak was 27 MPG highway but briefly and was more like 24-25 on average. Note: "I am thinking that I might have lost 1 MPG with my Goodyear TripleTreds”. Some have seen 30-33 MPG on the highway but I have never seen that on my V6 even with my OEM LS-2 tires!

I love my V6 but it is nothing to brag about, Power or MPG! Average for today's cars!

4 cylinder Engine Malibu.............

i'm a little over 1000 miles here, and I'm averaging 31MPG.

I drive 14 miles to work every day, 2 redlights. Rural town driving between 45-55mph.

I've drove (3) 100 mile round trips highway @75mph.

I drive conversative. RPMS nver over 2,000. I rarely pass other people.


That is were the MPG are awful, City/town driving! I have seen mine go way below the 17 MPG Rating for city! You need to do a little highway driving to get up to the 17MPG. GM had got that totally wrong! Sometimes I think I get as good gas mileage with my F-150 truck around town! My highest peak was 27 MPG highway but briefly and was more like 24-25 on average. Note: "I am thinking that I might have lost 1 MPG with my Goodyear TripleTreds”. Some have seen 30-33 MPG on the highway but I have never seen that on my V6 even with my OEM LS-2 tires!

I love my V6 but it is nothing to brag about, Power or MPG! Average for today's cars!

i'm a little over 1000 miles here, and I'm averaging 31MPG.

I drive 14 miles to work every day, 2 redlights. Rural town driving between 45-55mph.

I've drove (3) 100 mile round trips highway @75mph.

I drive conversative. RPMS nver over 2,000. I rarely pass other people.

You guys must have ALOT of stop and go, or have lead foots!



If I am correct, 1LT Malibu has a 4 cylinder not a V6!!;)

edited post for clarity...(4cyl)

I just replied to the last comment in the thread (which was 08chevymalibultz's)

The Thread Title doesn't specify engine type.


If I am correct, 1LT Malibu has a 4 cylinder not a V6!!;)

If I am correct, 1LT Malibu has a 4 cylinder not a V6!!;)

And I think they come both ways. ;)

Anyhow, I don't see anything he said that implies that HE has a 6.

My bad. I didn't specify I had a 4cyl.

And I think they come both ways. ;)

Anyhow, I don't see anything he said that implies that HE has a 6.

And I think they come both ways. ;)

Anyhow, I don't see anything he said that implies that HE has a 6.




NO, your correct Ken but he did reply we must have a lead foot! Since he was comparing his mileage with a 4 cylinder VS. our V6!

My highlight quote was pertaining to the V6 not the 4! I don’t believe the 1LT has a V6 option!

It does not really matter!

I was not projecting this to you or him to begin with, anyways but you are always welcome to make/give an opinion!

Thanks!:)

And I immediately corrected my comment to reflect that I had a 4 cyl.

and retracted the "leadfoot" comment.

So, all is corrected, all is accurate, and lets move on.


NO, your correct Ken but he did reply we must have a lead foot! Since he was comparing his mileage with a 4 cylinder VS. our V6!

My highlight quote was pertaining to the V6 not the 4! I don’t believe the 1LT has a V6 option!

It does not really matter!

I was not projecting this to you or him to begin with, anyways but you are always welcome to make/give an opinion!

Thanks!:)

Agreed! I am not here to play baby games OR to get into any piss match with anybody! "Not punt intended"!

my wife and i moved from central iowa to western idaho and we
averaged 35.3 mpg at 70 mph during our trip. the malibu 2lt
has 7000 miles on it now and all around driving in and out of town
it gets 30 mpg. not bad for a 4 cyl. i love this car and so does my wife.

Welcome MalibuPaul2011........Just gotta love that Red Jewel Tintcoat, don't ya?

my wife and i moved from central iowa to western idaho and we
averaged 35.3 mpg at 70 mph during our trip. the malibu 2lt
has 7000 miles on it now and all around driving in and out of town
it gets 30 mpg. not bad for a 4 cyl. i love this car and so does my wife.

my wife and i moved from central iowa to western idaho and we
averaged 35.3 mpg at 70 mph during our trip. the malibu 2lt
has 7000 miles on it now and all around driving in and out of town
it gets 30 mpg. not bad for a 4 cyl. i love this car and so does my wife.


Must agree, The color of your Malibu is sharp looking!:D 35.3 mpg, that is great!

Lets see some REAL pics of that beautiful car (instead of a stock photo)...
:D:D:D

my wife and i moved from central iowa to western idaho and we
averaged 35.3 mpg at 70 mph during our trip. the malibu 2lt
has 7000 miles on it now and all around driving in and out of town
it gets 30 mpg. not bad for a 4 cyl. i love this car and so does my wife.

I'm about to turn 45k on my 1LT WITH V6 and 4-spd trans. I usually average around 27mpg mixed, mostly highway (roughly 75mph). Worst I have ever figured at the pump was 24mpg...

I drive 80+ miles a day, and I am quite pleased with the mix of power vs fuel economy of my car... I was very tempted to get a 2LT with the 3.6L, but couldn't beat the deal on this one. Wife wouldn't even let me test drive a 4-cyl. She knew I would never be happy with it.

I'm about to turn 45k on my 1LT WITH V6 and 4-spd trans. I usually average around 27mpg mixed, mostly highway (roughly 75mph). Worst I have ever figured at the pump was 24mpg...

I drive 80+ miles a day, and I am quite pleased with the mix of power vs fuel economy of my car... I was very tempted to get a 2LT with the 3.6L, but couldn't beat the deal on this one. Wife wouldn't even let me test drive a 4-cyl. She knew I would never be happy with it.



I think you made the right decision! The 3.6L won’t get you 27mpg mixed and the newer 1LT Models don’t have the V6 option at all, unless you can find a used one that was an rental / fleet model! Eventually no V6 will be available Period, Maybe the new SS model?

When I was looking at the Malibu, I was debating on the 4 VS. V6! I was concerned / wanted something with decent gas mileage but I was told by one of the salesman that he had the I4 as his own personal vehicle and wish he had got the V6 since he thought the car was too heavy for the I4! “Lack in power”

My wife had said the same thing, told me to get the V6 knowing I would dislike the 4 cylinder despite the gas savings!

If there was a option “Engine” some were between the I4 & V6, I may have went that route instead of the V6 option! A I4 with a Turbo would have been a nice option!:)

I have the 4cylinder 6speed and I'm thinking something could be wrong...

on trips, cruising about 75mph, I am getting somewhere around 22-26 depending on the weight of passengers/luggage. When driving to and from work, its mixed driving and I get about 25mpg.

I have never seen anything remotely close to 30, let alone 33 or 35. Should I be concerned and taking it in to be checked out?

hey greg4malibu i posted a new pic of our 2011 malibu2 lt for you
check my avatar or the new posted pic file to view. thanks for the welcome.

Dear gillespie85,

If you feel that the fuel economy that you are experiencing with your Malibu is not correct and you are concerned about it, then I do recommend that you take the vehicle in to have it checked out.

Here is some information that might be helpful with your situation; as I am sure that you are aware of there are many things that factor in the type of the fuel economy one gets with his or her vehicle.

Tire pressure will play a part in the fuel economy of any vehicle. One of the major contributors to poor fuel economy are under inflated tires. Tires low with pressure create drag that the vehicle’s powertrain must overcome, wasting dollars in fuel. Not only will proper inflated tires help with fuel economy but it can also cut down on the wear of the tire. This can decrease your costs per mile.

A vehicle that has a dirty air filter can’t efficiently draw air into the engine. This restriction forces the engine to expend energy to "breathe" wasting fuel in the process. Change recommendations are found in your vehicle Owner’s Manual.

Always use the proper viscosity oil in your engine. Oil that has a higher than required viscosity will create more drag on the internal components of the engine causing more work for it, especially when cold. Each Owner’s Manual contains information on the proper type of oil for your vehicle. Look for the "starburst" symbol on the front of the bottle, and the SM rating on the API circle on the back label. If you are in doubt, stop by your dealer for an oil change, and any other services required. NOTE: GM Vehicles DO NOT require additional engine oil additives. Some additives may cause harmful effects to the internal seals and additionally void the terms of your vehicles New Car Warranty.

Some fuel manufacturers provide gasoline advertised as Top Tier Detergent. These fuels are preferable when and where available. They help to keep your fuel injectors and intake valves free of deposits. Clean engines provide optimal fuel economy, performance and reduced emissions. When Top Tier fuels are not available, consider a bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, P/N# 88861011 (in Canada, #88861012), at oil change time which will remove intake system and injector deposits. GM does not recommend any other fuel system cleaner. Note: DO NOT confuse Top Tier Fuels with Higher Octane (Plus/Premium Grade Fuel) commonly sold at most all gas stations. Plus and Premium fuels are required in some high performance GM vehicles. However, they do not necessarily represent higher detergency present in TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.

Is the Check Engine/SES light on? When this light is on, the vehicles On-Board diagnostics computer has noticed that something is wrong. GM vehicles have many sensors that the computer uses to both control and sense actual fuel usage. When the computer lights the Check Engine/SES light it has lost some ability to run efficiently. This may result in increased fuel consumption, increased emissions, and/or drivability concerns.

Of course the fuel economy is going to vary from driver to driver. Our driving habits will have an effect on the fuel economy of our vehicles.

Avoid leaving unnecessary items in your trunk. It takes power to move increased weight and that means more gasoline consumption and reduced performance. While the change may be slight, multiplied by thousands of miles, it all adds up.

I hope this information might shed some light on things for you.

Michelle, Chevrolet Customer Service

Dear gillespie85,

If you feel that the fuel economy that you are experiencing with your Malibu is not correct and you are concerned about it, then I do recommend that you take the vehicle in to have it checked out.

Here is some information that might be helpful with your situation; as I am sure that you are aware of there are many things that factor in the type of the fuel economy one gets with his or her vehicle.

Tire pressure will play a part in the fuel economy of any vehicle. One of the major contributors to poor fuel economy are under inflated tires. Tires low with pressure create drag that the vehicle’s powertrain must overcome, wasting dollars in fuel. Not only will proper inflated tires help with fuel economy but it can also cut down on the wear of the tire. This can decrease your costs per mile.
Tire Pressure is set per what is displayed in the door jams

A vehicle that has a dirty air filter can’t efficiently draw air into the engine. This restriction forces the engine to expend energy to "breathe" wasting fuel in the process. Change recommendations are found in your vehicle Owner’s Manual.
Brand New K&N air filter put in car 7,000 miles ago

Always use the proper viscosity oil in your engine. Oil that has a higher than required viscosity will create more drag on the internal components of the engine causing more work for it, especially when cold. Each Owner’s Manual contains information on the proper type of oil for your vehicle. Look for the "starburst" symbol on the front of the bottle, and the SM rating on the API circle on the back label. If you are in doubt, stop by your dealer for an oil change, and any other services required. NOTE: GM Vehicles DO NOT require additional engine oil additives. Some additives may cause harmful effects to the internal seals and additionally void the terms of your vehicles New Car Warranty.
Mobil 1 changed every 5,000 miles, same weight as what is recommended in manual

Some fuel manufacturers provide gasoline advertised as Top Tier Detergent. These fuels are preferable when and where available. They help to keep your fuel injectors and intake valves free of deposits. Clean engines provide optimal fuel economy, performance and reduced emissions. When Top Tier fuels are not available, consider a bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, P/N# 88861011 (in Canada, #88861012), at oil change time which will remove intake system and injector deposits. GM does not recommend any other fuel system cleaner. Note: DO NOT confuse Top Tier Fuels with Higher Octane (Plus/Premium Grade Fuel) commonly sold at most all gas stations. Plus and Premium fuels are required in some high performance GM vehicles. However, they do not necessarily represent higher detergency present in TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.
Purchased the fuel treatment that is sold from the dealer for these cars, ran it with a full tank of gas 4,000 miles ago

Is the Check Engine/SES light on? When this light is on, the vehicles On-Board diagnostics computer has noticed that something is wrong. GM vehicles have many sensors that the computer uses to both control and sense actual fuel usage. When the computer lights the Check Engine/SES light it has lost some ability to run efficiently. This may result in increased fuel consumption, increased emissions, and/or drivability concerns.
No check engine light on

Of course the fuel economy is going to vary from driver to driver. Our driving habits will have an effect on the fuel economy of our vehicles.

Avoid leaving unnecessary items in your trunk. It takes power to move increased weight and that means more gasoline consumption and reduced performance. While the change may be slight, multiplied by thousands of miles, it all adds up.
Only items in trunk is a jacket, football, and california sweeper

I hope this information might shed some light on things for you.

Michelle, Chevrolet Customer Service

see the above answers

GREAT! Looks just like mine! Hope you are enjoying it!


hey greg4malibu i posted a new pic of our 2011 malibu2 lt for you
check my avatar or the new posted pic file to view. thanks for the welcome.

I have the 4cylinder 6speed and I'm thinking something could be wrong...

on trips, cruising about 75mph, I am getting somewhere around 22-26 depending on the weight of passengers/luggage. When driving to and from work, its mixed driving and I get about 25mpg.

I have never seen anything remotely close to 30, let alone 33 or 35. Should I be concerned and taking it in to be checked out?

me too almost exactly- avg bout 23-26max. tires are all good, 3k miles on it....
i dont place a lot of faith in a mechainic doing much here unless there is a tranny/engine computer update or something- but its not like they will call ya to let you know...

still think a turbo diesel in this car would be the perfect engine

see the above answers

2 items you might want to consider reviewing for the sake of your car.

1. The tire pressure on the placard might be too low, causing premature tire wear and with it, lower fuel mileage. I run mine at 36 front / 34 rear. On trips I bump the fronts to 38. The ride on my Hankooks is much better than on the stock Eagle LS2's, both in comfort and performance. Some will say that 38 or even 34 is too high. The info on the tire sidewall says not to inflate past a certain pressure (probably 44 psi) when cold. I'm not only well below that, I continually check my car and my tires. If they exhibit any signs of wear I check the pressure and set it as needed.

2. Mobil 1 is not a bad oil, but for about the same price you can get oil that performs better. Take a trip over to BobIsTheOilGuy.com and read what they say. It'll give you some info. If you still use Mobil 1 that's not bad, since it IS synthetic, which is better than conventional. The biggest thing you want is oil that pumps quickly at a cold start, when most engine wear occurs.

In response to your earlier concern, I have the 3.6 V6. I recently came back from Washington, DC, with 2 passengers and a trunk full of baggage. It was over 500 miles. On the tankful that I used between Maryland and Kentucky I averaged 29.46 mpg for the 405.9 miles, all while running at about 75-80. The path is full of hills and mountains, too. So if you aren't getting 30 (or more!) with an I4 you need to check on some things.

Do you use cruise control?
Do you use the brakes a lot to slow when traffic starts to clog?
Do you (or does your trans) shift down when climbing hills?
Did the trip(s) require you to carry passengers and/or luggage or heavy items?

These are just a few things beyond car maintenance that can affect mileage.
CC helps a lot!
Brakes throw it away.
Downshifts can rob a lot.
Heavy loads affect mileage negatively.

I'm sure I'm not telling you anything new, but how much attention do you pay to getting the best mileage possible while driving? If you really work at it then that's a good thing, since you're probably maximizing what you can attain from your car. That means it may need service. On my trip above I was really working at getting above 30, but I also wanted to stay at 75-80, which is about 5 more than I usually do. Those 5 probably cost me about 2-3 mpg (based on my '09 experience), and so that means I could have save about 1.5 gallons, or $6. Sounds like I made a reasonable trade.

I would also suggest chucking the K&N. Just run a good dry filter like Wix. I run them on my carb'd engines, but I've seen first hand the gremlins they create with MAF, which I'm assuming the I4 uses.

2 items you might want to consider reviewing for the sake of your car.

1. The tire pressure on the placard might be too low, causing premature tire wear and with it, lower fuel mileage. I run mine at 36 front / 34 rear. On trips I bump the fronts to 38. The ride on my Hankooks is much better than on the stock Eagle LS2's, both in comfort and performance. Some will say that 38 or even 34 is too high. The info on the tire sidewall says not to inflate past a certain pressure (probably 44 psi) when cold. I'm not only well below that, I continually check my car and my tires. If they exhibit any signs of wear I check the pressure and set it as needed.

2. Mobil 1 is not a bad oil, but for about the same price you can get oil that performs better. Take a trip over to BobIsTheOilGuy.com and read what they say. It'll give you some info. If you still use Mobil 1 that's not bad, since it IS synthetic, which is better than conventional. The biggest thing you want is oil that pumps quickly at a cold start, when most engine wear occurs.

In response to your earlier concern, I have the 3.6 V6. I recently came back from Washington, DC, with 2 passengers and a trunk full of baggage. It was over 500 miles. On the tankful that I used between Maryland and Kentucky I averaged 29.46 mpg for the 405.9 miles, all while running at about 75-80. The path is full of hills and mountains, too. So if you aren't getting 30 (or more!) with an I4 you need to check on some things.

Do you use cruise control?
Do you use the brakes a lot to slow when traffic starts to clog?
Do you (or does your trans) shift down when climbing hills?
Did the trip(s) require you to carry passengers and/or luggage or heavy items?

These are just a few things beyond car maintenance that can affect mileage.
CC helps a lot!
Brakes throw it away.
Downshifts can rob a lot.
Heavy loads affect mileage negatively.

I'm sure I'm not telling you anything new, but how much attention do you pay to getting the best mileage possible while driving? If you really work at it then that's a good thing, since you're probably maximizing what you can attain from your car. That means it may need service. On my trip above I was really working at getting above 30, but I also wanted to stay at 75-80, which is about 5 more than I usually do. Those 5 probably cost me about 2-3 mpg (based on my '09 experience), and so that means I could have save about 1.5 gallons, or $6. Sounds like I made a reasonable trade.

will crank up the PSI a couple pounds- but the downshifting thing- its one of the BIG differences i noticed going from my v6 impala to the 4 banger malipoop. The thing shifts ALOT. probably from being underpowered- you 6 probably has enough oooph to not have to shift as much.
Say it again- a turbo 4 in this car would be ideal- not sure why the US hasnt picked up on TDI like europe...

21.5 mix of city and highway

I have a 2011 LTZ 4cyl auto, average 20.2.

And I feel this is pretty good. My commute is only about 2 miles each way. And in that two mile there are 4 stop signs, two lights, and most of it has a speed limit of 15 or 20 mph. so everyday I basically crawl from stop to stop. pretty much perfect conditions for a hybrid or electric car. getting the mpg that I do is nice considering that my daily drive is horrible for fuel economy.

My commute is only about 2 miles each way.

Have you considered a bicycle......or a scooter ?? Some of them get around 70-80 mpg.

I get 20.2 with the 3.6 on a 5 mile one way back road trip to work. Never had it on a good long run yet for highway mileage. Driven Daily's response at the bottom of page 3 is good. Sure run the tire pressure up a few pounds, all you'll lose is a little ride quality, more harsh, and if you go too high you'll start wearing the center out of you tires. To get good mileage, you need to drive for it, that means easy away from a stop. If you're going to crank it out like a street race and then want good fuel economy, keep dreaming. As far as taking it to the dealer or any other mechanic, what is it you want them to do? There are no adjustments, everything is computer controlled. If there's no check engine light, most likely there's not much to say. Additives are not going to do much more than drain your wallet. Any increase will be very insignificant maybe not readily noticeable even. Look at your driving style. Are you riding the guys bumper in front of you, on and off the gas all the time? Be honest with yourself, I really don't care, I'm not buying your fuel. Every time you press that gas pedal, you're opening that fuel injector for a longer time, kind of like the old school accelerator pump on a carburetor. Steady cruise, the injector pulse width is lower, less fuel used. Watch your instant fuel economy reading while you drive and adjust your driving style to get the best economy on that gauge. Some of us on this forum probably remember the old fuel economy gauges on cars back in the 70's, same idea with instant fuel economy reading. Another thing is don't let it idle to warm up or for any unnecessary long idle time, waiting for the spouse at the store or whatever for example. Good or bad fuel economy has as much to do with the 'loose nut' behind the wheel as anything else. Post that follows is a GM bulletin that mirrors most of what Michelle said earlier.

#05-00-89-072B: Fuel and Oil Additives - Facts and Myths/Maximizing Fuel Economy - (Jun 17, 2008)


Subject: Fuel and Oil Additives - Facts and Myths/Maximizing Fuel Economy



A Statement About Fuel Economy
As gasoline prices have increased, the consumer has shifted priorities to become increasingly concerned with fuel consumption. GM is presently proud to offer over 30 cars in the U.S. with EPA highway estimates of at least 30 mpg. In Canada, vehicles are rated for fuel consumption in liters per 100 kilometers. GM offers over 20 vehicles in Canada that consume less than 7.0 L/100 km on the highway. The information below contains reasonable and prudent advice for your dealership and the consumer to get the most from every gallon or liter of gas.


WHAT NOT TO DO: Engine and Fuel Additives, Alternate Fuels, and "Miracle" Products
Various unproven products with claims to improve vehicle fuel economy have been reported ranging from magnets that align molecules to chemical combustion improvers.

Most products claiming to provide benefits are based on unsubstantiated claims. Those that do present "scientific" results generally either have too little supporting data to be conclusive, have not conducted experiments in a controlled fashion, or cannot be substantiated by anyone else but the product's manufacturer.

The U.S. Federal Trade Commission summarizes results for products tested by the federal government at www.ftc.gov/bcp/edu/pubs/consumer/autos/aut10.shtm. A review of the list shows that the majority did not work, and for those that showed some effect, the benefit was too small to be cost effective.

Harmful Ideas That May Damage Your Vehicle and Increase Emissions
One more recent poor idea to improve fuel economy that should not be attempted is to blend either kerosene or diesel fuel into gasoline. Why? Both kerosene and diesel fuel are distillate fuels meant for use in compression ignition engines, not spark ignition engines. They have very low octane and since they are heavier (higher density) than gasoline, they will cause heavy engine deposits and degradation of engine oil.

Notice: Never put Kerosene or Diesel Fuel in your Gasoline Engine vehicle. This may result in inconsistent performance and permanent damage to your vehicle that is not covered by your New Vehicle Warranty.

Chemicals that are normally used as solvents also should not be used. These include acetone, ketones, and methanol. These solvents can be incompatible with your vehicles rubber or sealing components, and may dissolve the vehicle’s paint finish. In the case of methanol, corrosion of metal parts in the fuel system also may occur.

Notice: Never use acetone, ketones, or methanol additives in your vehicle. Some of these solvents may damage or corrode your fuel system. They are also very damaging to the painted surfaces of the vehicle if spilled.

Damage to vehicle components that result from non-approved or aftermarket additives and devices are not covered under the terms of the New Vehicle Warranty. The only fuel additive currently approved by GM is GM Fuel System Treatment Plus, P/N 88861011 (in Canada, #88861012).


WHAT TO DO: Maximizing Fuel Economy/Minimizing Costs
The best fuel economy possible is the direct result of proper maintenance and good driving habits. Listed below are GM's recommendations to achieve the best mileage possible. The first group are things to consider for your vehicle, while the second are tips relating to your driving habits.

Vehicle Considerations:


• Tire Pressure - One of the major contributors to poor fuel economy are under inflated tires. Tires low on pressure create drag that the vehicle’s powertrain must overcome, wasting dollars in fuel. Always keep your tires inflated to the proper pressure as shown on the vehicle placard. This not only serves to increase gas mileage but cuts down on tire wear, further decreasing your costs per mile.

• Air Filter - A vehicle that has a dirty air filter can’t efficiently draw air into the engine. This restriction forces the engine to expend energy to "breathe" wasting fuel in the process. Change recommendations are found in your vehicle Owner’s Manual.

• Proper Viscosity "Starburst" Rated Oil - Always use the proper viscosity oil in your engine. Oil that has a higher than required viscosity will create more drag on the internal components of the engine, causing more work for it, especially when cold. Each Owner’s Manual contains information on the proper type of oil for your vehicle. Look for the "starburst" symbol on the front of the bottle, and the SM rating on the API circle on the back label. If you are in doubt, stop by your dealer for an oil change, and any other services required. Most current GM vehicles are equipped with oil life monitors to further assist on the "when" to change your oil. (Aveo/Wave/Optra/Epica currently do not have oil life monitors).


Notice: GM Vehicles DO NOT require additional engine oil additives. Some additives may cause harmful effects to the internal seals and additionally void the terms of your vehicles New Car Warranty.


• Top Tier Fuels - Some fuel manufacturers provide gasoline advertised as TOP TIER DETERGENT GASOLINE (Chevron, Conoco, Phillips 66, Shell, Texaco, Entec Stations, MFA Oil Company, 76, Somerset Oil, Aloha Petroleum, Tri-Par Oil Company, QuikTrip, and Kwik Trip) in the U.S. and (Petro-Canada, Chevron, Shell, and Sunoco ) in Canada. These fuels are preferable when and where available. They help to keep your fuel injectors and intake valves free of deposits. Clean engines provide optimal fuel economy, performance and reduced emissions. When Top Tier fuels are not available, consider a bottle of GM Fuel System treatment PLUS, P/N# 88861011 (in Canada, #88861012), at oil change time which will remove intake system and injector deposits. GM does not recommend any other fuel system cleaner.


Important: DO NOT confuse Top Tier Fuels with Higher Octane (Plus/Premium Grade Fuel) commonly sold at most all gas stations. Plus and Premium fuels are required in some high performance GM vehicles. However, they do not necessarily represent higher detergency present in TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.



Important: For additional information regarding Top Tier fuels and availability, please refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 04-06-04-047G for U.S. or 05-06-04-022D for Canada.
Notice: E85 FUELS: Only vehicles designated for use with E85 should use E85 blended fuel. E85 compatibility is designated for vehicles that are certified to run on up to 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline. All other gasoline engines are designed to run on fuel that contains no more than 10% ethanol. Use of fuel containing greater than 10% ethanol in non-E85 designated vehicles can cause driveability issues, service engine soon indicators as well as increased fuel system corrosion. See Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-04-035C for additional information.
• Use the Recommended Grade (Octane) Fuel

Purchasing higher than required octane fuel is a waste of money. Using higher octane fuels in a vehicle that only required regular unleaded fuel will neither increase performance nor improve gas mileage. In all cases refer to your owners manual and ONLY use the octane rated fuel recommended for your vehicle.
Important: In high performance GM vehicles that DO require Premium (91 octane or higher) fuel, you MUST use fuels of at least this octane. Use of lower octane fuel may result in reduced performance, knocking, and/or permanent engine damage not covered under the terms of the New Vehicle Warranty.
• Check Engine/Service Engine Soon Light - Is the Check Engine/SES light on? When this light is on, the vehicles On-Board diagnostics computer has noticed that something is wrong. GM vehicles have many sensors that the computer uses to both control and sense actual fuel usage. When the computer lights the Check Engine/SES light it has lost some ability to run efficiently. This may result in increased fuel consumption, increased emissions, and/or driveability concerns.
• Spark Plugs - Even though most current GM vehicles have 160,000 km (100,000 mi) service intervals for spark plugs, if your vehicle is at that point in its life, have the spark plugs changed to assure proper running and continued efficient, trouble free operation. Refer to the applicable Maintenance Schedule for spark plugs service intervals on Chevrolet Aveo, Optra, Epica, Pontiac Vibe, Wave and Saturn Astra.
Changes In Driving Habits:
• Slow Down, Drive Smoothly - Avoid quick/full throttle acceleration from a standstill in town and high cruising speeds on the interstates. While the optimum MPG for highway cruising speed varies from vehicle to vehicle, faster is almost always worse. If your vehicle is equipped with a Driver Information Center that displays Instant Fuel Economy, select that read out and vary your cruising speed while on the highway. The display will change continuously with uphill and downhill sections but you should quickly be able to identify on level ground the speed range that your vehicle does the best in.

• Empty Your Trunk - Avoid leaving unnecessary items in your trunk. It takes power to move increased weight and that means more gasoline consumption and reduced performance. While the change may be slight, multiplied by thousands of miles, it all adds up.

• Avoid Extended Idling - There is no need to idle your engine till it reaches operating temperature. Idling wastes fuel.

• Combine Trips - Your vehicle uses much more fuel when the engine is cold. This is especially true in the winter months when the engine will take the longest to warm up. Combine errands or trips so that the vehicle only needs to warm up once to encompass many different stops.

GM does not recommend any other fuel system cleaner.

Excellent information.....but they just HAD to sneak this one in there. :rolleyes:

Only available at a GM dealer at a much inflated price and appears to be just Techron with a different label, which is available at any auto parts store......or even WalMart.

Everybody should read that post......ALL of it.
Likely almost everybody will learn something from it.

Let me clarify the post just prior to this one. GM does not recommend any other cleaner for a very good reason. Most of them do nothing but empty your wallet. Sure there are other good products out there but do you really expect GM or any manufacturer to test how well they work? The GM cleaner #88861011 IS Chevron Techron to the best of my knowledge. The GM bottle treats 20 gallons, whereas most of the Chevron Techron you buy elsewhere is good for 14 gallons so that justifies some of the additional cost. I witnessed the Techron for myself over 10 years ago, there was an old bulletin for misfires in the old R motor found in late 90's trucks. The fix was dumping a bottle of the then current part number in the tank and letting it run for a while. I did just that and in the period of a half hour run time, the misfire cleared itself just by dumping that stuff in the tank. Since then that is all I'll use. It works, I saw it. The curent product, part number above also is supposed to have a chemical in it to keep the fuel level sender from getting corrupted which has been a big issue the last ten years or so. Do as you wish but I'd recommend using a Top Tier fuel if at all possible in your area. A list of suppliers can be found here, http://www.toptiergas.com/ . A bottle or two of the Chevron detergent won't hurt either but Top Tier fuel use may lessen or eliminate the need for additional products.

Have you considered a bicycle......or a scooter ?? Some of them get around 70-80 mpg.

i have thought about that more than once. its a shame to blow so much fuel on such a short drive. but... I have twin boys (4yo) and part of that drive is taking them too and from day care. some days its nice enough to walk but in the winter its been too cold for them and in the summer I'm not keen on walking 1.5 miles in 90* heat with 80% humidity and two wild children. so for now i deal with the fuel. on the hwys around here the malibu kicks ars. the speed limit is 55 on most of the highways around here (Scott AFB, IL) and at that speed the DIC is showing 40-42 mpg and the engine looks to be turning about 1400RPM IIRC.

i have thought about that more than once. its a shame to blow so much fuel on such a short drive. but... I have twin boys (4yo) and part of that drive is taking them too and from day care. some days its nice enough to walk but in the winter its been too cold for them and in the summer I'm not keen on walking 1.5 miles in 90* heat with 80% humidity and two wild children. so for now i deal with the fuel. on the hwys around here the malibu kicks ars. the speed limit is 55 on most of the highways around here (Scott AFB, IL) and at that speed the DIC is showing 40-42 mpg and the engine looks to be turning about 1400RPM IIRC.



That should change all thoughts of the V6 VS. I4 as for mileage! Who would want a bicycle or a Scooter with those MPG?:rolleyes:

Let me clarify the post just prior to this one.

Yes, I'm a cynical old man. ;)

Remind me again what the advantage of "top tier" fuels is supposed to be.
It is hard to figure that there is any significant difference when there is only ONE wholesale depot in my area and ALL of the tank trucks fill up there.

And yes I agree that most aftermarket additives are mostly snake oil.......but not all. You need some experience and a little research to know the difference. Then there are "top tier" fuels where the advantage is better "additives"............????

Not wanting to start an arguement, just pointing out that there is little "black and white"; most is grey.

Well, first place I would have gone was the website I gave but for those that hate to click the mouse button too much, here you go. There's one picture you won't see in this bulletin, a picture of an intake valve, of course the one using top tier fuel is cleaner. If this isn't enough for you, you can go to www.toptiergas.com and click around a little. On the right side of the page is a history of top tier gas which if you click it, I know more work, but that opens another window to a page from Union 76 and three short, pretty much useless videos. Cynical seems to be a trait most people have a lot of anymore. Some is justified, some is just because that's the 'in' thing to do. Personally see it as black and white and not a lot of gray here. I use mid grade or premium fuel and no additives, there isn't a top tier retailer close by or I'd run that fuel. I also don't have fuel injectors that clog due to deposits. Those that choose to run the cheapest thing that resembles fuel get what they pay for and get to clean their injectors one way or another. You can pay me now or you can pay me later. Used to be an advertising phrase for those too young to remember from Fram oil filters. Sure it runs on 87 octane fuel, the fuel isn't the issue but the level of detergent is. The higher grades seem to have higher detergent levels or different detergents. I have no proof of that however it sure seems that way as most cars requiring the higher octane fuel, Corvette comes to mind, don't seem to have the frequency of injectors getting becoming restricted that average cars do. From a performance stand point most cars you wouldn't know the difference from regular to premium as the octane rating has nothing to do with performance, the higher octane rating is a more stable fuel, less prone to pre-ignition or 'pinging'. If there's no pre-ignition on 87 octane fuel, a higher octane rating won't do anything. The vehicles today use a knock sensor to 'listen' for pre-ignition. The ECM will retard timing to lessen Ping if the sensor picks it up, however usually the amount of timing taken away is small. The octane rating of the fuel has nothing to do, to my knowledge, with the level of detergency.

Did it again, here you go.

#04-06-04-047I: TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Deposits, Fuel Economy, No Start, Power, Performance, Stall Concerns) - U.S. Only - (Aug 17, 2009)


Subject: TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Deposits, Fuel Economy, No Start, Power, Performance, Stall Concerns) - U.S. Only


Models: 2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) (U.S. Only)

2003-2010 HUMMER H2 (U.S. Only)

2006-2010 HUMMER H3 (U.S. Only)

2005-2009 Saab 9-7X (U.S. Only)




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to add model years and additional sources to the Top Tier Fuel Retailers list. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-06-04-047H (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System). In Canada, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-04-022F.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A new class of fuel called TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is appearing at retail stations of some fuel marketers. This gasoline meets detergency standards developed by six automotive companies. All vehicles will benefit from using TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline over gasoline containing the "Lowest Additive Concentration" set by the EPA. Those vehicles that have experienced deposit related concerns may especially benefit from the use of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.





(1) Intake valve: 10,000 miles with TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline
(2) Intake valve: 10,000 miles with Legal Minimum additive




Gasoline Brands That Currently Meet TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Standards
As of August 1, 2009, all grades of the following gasoline brands meet the TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Standards:

• Chevron

• Chevron-Canada

• QuikTrip

• Conoco

• Phillips 66

• 76

• Shell

• Shell-Canada

• Entec Stations located in the greater Montgomery, Alabama area.

• MFA Oil Company located throughout Missouri.

• Kwik Trip, Inc. in Minnesota and Wisconsin and Kwik Star convenience stores in Iowa.

• The Somerset Refinery, Inc. at Somerset Oil stations in Kentucky.

• Aloha Petroleum

• Tri-Par Oil Company

• Turkey Hill Minit Markets

• Texaco

• Petro-Canada

• Sunoco-Canada

• Road Ranger located in Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Missouri, Ohio and Wisconsin

What is TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is a new class of gasoline with enhanced detergency. It meets new, voluntary deposit control standards developed by six automotive companies that exceed the detergent requirements imposed by the EPA.

Where Can TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Be Purchased?
The TOP TIER program began on May 3, 2004 and many fuel marketers have joined the program and have introduced TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. This is a voluntary program and not all fuel marketers will offer this product. Once fuel marketers make public announcements, they will appear on a list of brands that meet the TOP TIER standards.

Where Can I find the Latest Information on TOP TIER Fuel and Retailers?
On the web, please visit www.toptiergas.com for additional information and updated retailer lists.

Who developed TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards were developed by six automotive companies: Audi, BMW, General Motors, Honda, Toyota and Volkswagen.

Why was TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline developed?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline was developed to increase the level of detergent additive in gasoline. The EPA requires that all gasoline sold in the U.S. contain a detergent additive. However, the requirement is minimal and in many cases, is not sufficient to keep engines clean. In order to meet TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards, a higher level of detergent is needed than what is required by the EPA. Also, TOP TIER was developed to give fuel marketers the opportunity to differentiate their product.

Why did the six automotive companies join together to develop TOP TIER?
All six corporations recognized the benefits to both the vehicle and the consumer. Also, joining together emphasized that low detergency is an issue of concern to several automotive companies.

What are the benefits of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline will help keep engines cleaner than gasoline containing the "Lowest Additive Concentration" set by the EPA. Clean engines help provide optimal fuel economy and performance and reduced emissions. Also, use of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline will help reduce deposit related concerns.

I use mid grade or premium fuel and no additives, there isn't a top tier retailer close by or I'd run that fuel. I also don't have fuel injectors that clog due to deposits.

The octane rating of the fuel has nothing to do, to my knowledge, with the level of detergency.

Didn't you just talk yourself around in a circle ??

Octane rating and detergency level are two different things. Octane rating is described pretty well here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating does not mention anything about detergent. You can also read more about gasoline here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline where I believe you will also see there is no corrolation bewtween octane rating and detergent levels. I also said this, The higher grades seem to have higher detergent levels or different detergents. I have no proof of that however it sure seems that way as most cars requiring the higher octane fuel, Corvette comes to mind, don't seem to have the frequency of injectors getting becoming restricted that average cars do. What is it about the higher grades of fuel that makes it at least seem that they don't cause injector deposits to form like lower grades of fuel? Five, six years ago, it seemed all I did somedays was injector flushes. A customer would come in and have a misfire or a fuel trim code and when an injector balance test was done, flow rates were different among the injectors on that engine. Injector pulse width or on-time is controlled by the ECM but is, on most engines, the same for all cylinders. That is not necessarily the case especially on the Duramax Diesel for instance. So for a given pulse width the injector that flows less fuel in the balance test will deliver less fuel than is being anticipated by the ECM and the injector that is flowing more fuel will deliver too much fuel. This can and did happen on the same engine, some too lean and some too rich. Clean the injectors, clear the codes and problem solved. The number of Corvettes that this happened to was much lower than other vehicles that were 'fine' on 87 octane fuel. TopTier fuel was pretty new on the scene back then. In the past couple of years, the number of injector flushes that were NEEDED has decreased significantly. Somewhere along the way something changed. Different refining process, more or different detergent, don't know. Some people think Top Tier gas is a marketing ploy, you're a cynical guy by your own admission. Got any proof that there's no difference? I be glad to see someone prove it's a hoax. Honestly, I don't see your circle but if you do, that's fine.

I almost always fuel up with Top Tier brands.

As someone quoted (Rodents) the old Fram commercial, "You can pay me now or you can pay me later." I remember it and I'd wager that plenty others do as well.

Anyone who wants to spend more than what is required is allowed to do so with no comments from others. What I believe is being questioned is whether there is actually any validity to using Top Tier fuels. I strongly believe that they work better than the Mom 'N' Pop stations, but if it's a choice of Mom 'N' Pop or walking, I ain't walkin', that's for sure! I just don't routinely use them, as insurance against deposits forming.

So, the issue is, "Do TT fuels exist, and do they do as advertised?"

I vote that they exist and work.

********

PS - I use 89 octane in my V6. It performs better than 87, and I haven't detected any improvements with 93 using my trustworthy Butt Dyno.

As of today:

17.1 MPG.

It hurts.

I'm getting 15mpg per dic. I do mostly city driving. sadly this is no where near the 22 city. I have a 4 cyl -6speed.

Still AVERAGING 30.7 MPG (mostly hwy). Mostly use Kroger fuel because I get $1.05 off per gallon (use my Kroger 123 rewards card for an extra $.05/gallon!) of 87 octane in my 4 cylinder, 4 spd auto. No issues. :D
I love this car!

I have been averaging between 19-23 mixed city and hwy, BUT, its also been 105 F plus for over a month, its just starting to cool off, and my mileage IS getting better...slowly, strictly hwy it is closer to 28-31. A/C all the time and a heavy foot makes for gas-go-bye-bye-faster.. :)

Mostly use Kroger fuel because I get $1.05 off per gallon

That's a typo, right ??
Or maybe on a very limited number of gallons ??

I drive very little(3000 mi.)in the past year It is also the worst driving you can do for milage, start, drive a mile , stop. The car never heats up properly and the trips are in a town that has traffic lights that cause you to stop at almost every one.My one mile trip to the post office has five lights and I usually catch every one. The DIC has never been reset and I average 16.7 MPG.

Still AVERAGING 30.7 MPG (mostly hwy). Mostly use Kroger fuel because I get $1.05 off per gallon (use my Kroger 123 rewards card for an extra $.05/gallon!) of 87 octane in my 4 cylinder, 4 spd auto. No issues. :D
I love this car!

That's a typo, right ??
Or maybe on a very limited number of gallons ??

Nope. Kroger advertises that if you spend over $1000 in a period of time (it's a month I think) and save up all the points, when you fill up you'll get $1.00 per gallon off.

The extra nickel comes from using the Kroger card to pay for it.

But it's also not Top Tier gas - see another thread for that discussion.

:oThat's a typo, right ??
Or maybe on a very limited number of gallons ??

No typo. You are limited to 35 gallons per purchase. I usually fill up twice a month

My LTZ is currently averaged at 20.5, if I really try.. I can increase it but with my addiction to driving faster than average, that only lasts one trip to work. Then again that's what I get for getting a 6 cyl

My LTZ is currently averaged at 20.5, if I really try.. I can increase it but with my addiction to driving faster than average, that only lasts one trip to work. Then again that's what I get for getting a 6 cyl



That is very possible to average about that in your area, give or take! Route 1 & 2 is pretty flat and route 78 going to the beach is very flat. The ride on I95 is also a decent ride in that particular area. I am sure you have seen it lower in other area’s! Hit any hills, prolong idling or do any around town driving, forget it! The average / MPG drops fast!

4 cyl. LTZ - 4 months old. 21-22 mpg -mostly city driving.

Nope. Kroger advertises that if you spend over $1000 in a period of time (it's a month I think) and save up all the points, when you fill up you'll get $1.00 per gallon off.

:o

No typo. You are limited to 35 gallons per purchase. I usually fill up twice a month

I figured there was a substantial "requirement" to get that.
That's what I was really trying to find out with my question.

So you are saying that you spend enough at Kroger in a month to get that $1.05 off every time you fill up.....about every two weeks ??

I figured there was a substantial "requirement" to get that.
That's what I was really trying to find out with my question.

So you are saying that you spend enough at Kroger in a month to get that $1.05 off every time you fill up.....about every two weeks ??

On low months I usually get one trip with $1.05/gallon off, and the second trip with about $.50/gallon. This month with Krogers offering double and 4x times the points on some products, I will get $1.05/gallon both times. I bring extra containers of gas in the trunk to "maximize" my savings ;)

I bring extra containers of gas in the trunk to "maximize" my savings ;)

Now there's a man with good common sense !! :)

Your family must use a TON of groceries.

Just did a round trip from Chicago to Dayton and got 33.9 on one tank of fuel. Mostly ~65mph, cruise, no AC, no drafting tricks... just slow an steady with the LS. Seeing about 23-25 around town. <2k miles so far.

If any of you are up for an experiment.http://www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-91206/ I tried this on my 92 Camaro last year and got a best of 27mpg on cruse control, not running the air. This was in a car that previously could average 24/25 mpg or less on a good day. It also greatly lowered the numbers when I had it tested last April from the previous test two years earlier, and here in California that's a biggy. Be forwarned the thread is 50 pages long but worth the info.

If any of you are up for an experiment

Getting some positive results from adding "upper cylinder lube" doesn't surprise me much.......on a 10 year old engine. I've used Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in the past to free stuck rings and know some people who swear by it in older engines.

I would suggest, however, that if you expect any measurable improvement in a near-to-new engine, you probably will be disappointed.

I only read the first post in the linked thread......and was somewhat skeptical when he said that the current gas was crap because "it's too dry".
And then went on to imply that the oil he puts in the gas somehow removes the water that the ethanol attracts (where does the water go ???) :rolleyes:

I think we have yet another case of self-appointed Internet experts, creating another urban legand.......but it certainly shouldn't hurt to try it out. Just make careful measurements before and after......and beware of the "placebo effect". ;)

And the final test, for me anyway, is: IF this stuff or this idea is SOOOOO good, why isn't every car maker and gas company doing it already ???

Getting some positive results from adding "upper cylinder lube" doesn't surprise me much.......on a 10 year old engine. I've used Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in the past to free stuck rings and know some people who swear by it in older engines.

I would suggest, however, that if you expect any measurable improvement in a near-to-new engine, you probably will be disappointed.

I only read the first post in the linked thread......and was somewhat skeptical when he said that the current gas was crap because "it's too dry".
And then went on to imply that the oil he puts in the gas somehow removes the water that the ethanol attracts (where does the water go ???) :rolleyes:

I think we have yet another case of self-appointed Internet experts, creating another urban legand.......but it certainly shouldn't hurt to try it out. Just make careful measurements before and after......and beware of the "placebo effect". ;)

And the final test, for me anyway, is: IF this stuff or this idea is SOOOOO good, why isn't every car maker and gas company doing it already ???I fully understand your skepticism, however I caught the thread long before the 50 pages it currently is and read every post. I like you thought "Ya Right" until I tried it myself. As in my previous post the Camaro's mileage was an improvement, and no its not a new car or newer technology, but your probably not aware that the Thirdgens in California have a real uphill battle passing smog. If my car passed with better numbers two years later than the previous test and I did nothing to it other than drive it and put this oil in the gas, its worth every bit of effort it takes. I only offered it as information, personally if you don't want to try it in your car that's fine by me. No offense taken. But on the off chance that someone else my want to try it, I posted the information.

2011 LTZ with I4 6 speed. Picked it up last week. 575 miles as of today. My first tank of gas was 23.72mpg actual calculation. Mostly city driving. Current tank is more highway and DIC is showing 26mpg right now with about 1/4 tank to go. I definitely expected higher, but from other posts, I guess this is normal.

Once you break it in you can probably expect a bit more. Using CC will also yield better numbers, but you're probably already using it.

Using CC will also yield better numbers, but you're probably already using it.

Why would calculating your gas mileage in CC's make any difference ?? :confused:

;)

So......what IS this CC that you are referring to ?

Some of the posts here throw around acronyms like everybody knows what they are........and I suspect that often is not true.

So......what IS this CC that you are referring to ?

I took it to mean cruise control.

V-6 with a little over 1000 miles....Highway was at 31 with a manual calculation with the DIC in sync with same results. Combined city (but mostly highway on that tank) was 26. I assume city only will yield 23, but I won't know until a few days.

I just got back. I drove from Knoxville, TN, to Louisville, KY. Wow, what a trip! Literally. It was 234.8 miles between gas stations. I know it wasn't anywhere near a full tank but this is great news!

On the way down to Tail of the Dragon on the border of TN and NC I drove approximately the speed limit (posted 70) and the DIC was indicating 29-31, but then I drove the Dragon a couple times before filling and it dropped to showing 28.4 and the calculated was 26.506. That still isn't bad considering the V6 is rated 26 hwy by the EPA.

On the trip back (above) I chose to drive 60 instead of 70-75. The DIC said 36.5 when I filled it with 6.453 gallons, which calculates to 36.386 mpg!!! Wow, eh? My "old" '09 3.6 got almost that a couple times but this is just fantastic. The mileage of a 4-banger and the power of the 6.

OK, yes, to get that I had to drive a little slower than usual, but it just goes to prove that it's possible. I might do 65 next time and see how that works out.

I just got back. I drove from Knoxville, TN, to Louisville, KY. Wow, what a trip! Literally. It was 234.8 miles between gas stations. I know it wasn't anywhere near a full tank but this is great news!

On the way down to Tail of the Dragon on the border of TN and NC I drove approximately the speed limit (posted 70) and the DIC was indicating 29-31, but then I drove the Dragon a couple times before filling and it dropped to showing 28.4 and the calculated was 26.506. That still isn't bad considering the V6 is rated 26 hwy by the EPA.

On the trip back (above) I chose to drive 60 instead of 70-75. The DIC said 36.5 when I filled it with 6.453 gallons, which calculates to 36.386 mpg!!! Wow, eh? My "old" '09 3.6 got almost that a couple times but this is just fantastic. The mileage of a 4-banger and the power of the 6.

OK, yes, to get that I had to drive a little slower than usual, but it just goes to prove that it's possible. I might do 65 next time and see how that works out.

Cruise Control on or manually accelerating to achieve your 36.38? I know (or believe) you can achieve better by letting off the accelerator just like CC (cruise control) driving downhill but NOT accelerating uphill (unlike CC). :confused:

I used CC most of the time. On some of the steeper hills I knocked it into N and noticed the tach was still around 1600 rpm. But I also noticed the DIC's numbers inch upward. After getting to the bottom of the hill and letting it get to about 62 I pulled it back into D and hit Resume.

Uphill I left it in CC. I was already going slower than most traffic. (Can ya believe I was actually passing people??? :)) If there had been so little traffic that I could have drifted up, put it in M to hold 6th, and feathered the throttle, I would have done that, too. But I didn't want to be a hazard to navigation any more than already going slower.

I agree with your statement about not accelerating uphill. All you have to do is stay in top gear to achieve the best mileage, but also stay out of the fuel enrichment. On the old carburetors there was a fuel enrichment valve that would kick in when the load was heavy - detected by vacuum level. Not sure how this electronically-controlled engine does it but I'm sure there's a means of detecting it and enriching it.

Bought my 2011 LTZ 4 cyl. in Aug. Currently have 1900 miles. My mix of driving is probably 60% city/40% hwy. Avg. speed is usually 33mph. Avg MPG has been around 24 MPG. Last fill-up, I had a bit more highway driving and I ran Super Unleaded. MPG went up to 25.7MPG with 258 miles driven.

I've read many posts and it seems my experience is better than sum, but it's still not what I was expecting based on the sticker (26 MPG avg). I have been driving with the "instant MPG" and watching it closely to make sure I'm easy on the pedal. What I have found is that I can be driving in town at 40mph and it will show 16mpg instant mileage. If I let up on the accelerator and then ease back into it, it goes up to 28-30mpg. Not sure why the tranny won't reset on it's own. Probably has to do with all the postings about tranny concers and the tight shifting parameters.

As the car continues to be "broken in", I'm truly hoping that MPG's will increase.

I ran Super Unleaded.

If I let up on the accelerator and then ease back into it, it goes up to 28-30mpg. Not sure why the tranny won't reset on it's own.

Using high octane fuel in your engine does nothing........except take money out of your pocket; honestly.

Until you get the chance to do some extended highway miles, you aren't really going to know if your engine is "normal" or not. It seems that a LOT of people who drive mostly city miles are disappointed that they don't make the sticker estimated average. It would appear then that it is "normal" for the car and the problem is with how they estimate the "average" for the sticker.

As far as the shift points for the tranny, what you are seeing is pretty common for a LOT of cars. You can't please everybody and still being in 5th (or 4th even maybe) around 40 MPH is a compromise to help please those who would complain that the car "has no power" if it were to shift sooner.

@txbatman90, have you looked up the fuel economy information for your vehicle on fueleconomy.gov? This site has some great information about the fuel economy and things of that nature.

Michelle, Chevrolet Customer Service

My wife and I have identical 2010 Malibu LTZ's with the V6 engine. Both of us have about 10 mile round trips to work each day, she in one direction and me in the other, and it is stop and go city driving. One or the other gets a weekend highway trip to see my dad.

The average mileage for both of these is hitting around 21 - 22 combined mpg.

On a couple of long road trips, one to Florida from central VA, and the other to the Eastern Shore, we hit nearly 30 mpg. The Florida trip actually got a little better mpg even though our speed average was close to 70 on the interstates, while the trip to the ES our speed average was closer to 60.

BTW, these are manually calculated and I attempt to make sure the car is filled to capacity each time I fill up. The DIC mileage was within 1 mile of the manual calculation.

Not too shabby! If I ever get out that way again I'd like to roll on over to your place and make your neighbors wonder if they make them in any other color! ;)

As you can see from my posts earlier mine is getting about what you're reporting. And at 60 I was truly impressed with 36.4!

As cooler weather has arrived, I'm finding the mileage dropping what with (minimum) warmups to clear the windshield and all. This is the calculated result for October without any highway driving:

Date Miles Gallons Mileage
10/9 208 9.4 22.1
10/16 174 7.6 22.9
10/23 140 6.1 23.0
11/5 294 13.5 21.8
Totals 816 36.6 22.3

I have the '11 malibu ltz 4 banger n im getting 26 miles gallon at a steady speed of 80mph on the highway, city im getting 24 a gallon....b4 i started going faster i was getting 33-35 a gallon going 65-70mph....driving more efficiantly in the city will help to just dont get heavy on the gas pedal n keep things smooth and ur gas mileage will go up no problem...also i have a k&n air filter and custom exhaust which helped very small amount giving me alot more air flow...hope this was some help to u

I've only had my used '11 Malibu 2.4 A6 for a short time now, but with about 450 miles I've put on since buying, the DIC is showing 27.5 mpg. I drive a mix of hwy (65 - 70 mph) and city (30 - 40 mph). Haven't actaully figured it out on my own yet, but that's probably pretty close.

Interesting side note - Right after I bought the car, I filled up at the nearest grocery store gas station. The DIC was showing about 26.5 mpg for that tank full. After the second fill up at a normal gas station, the DIC quickly went up to 27.5 mpg and has stayed there. Anyone noticed a difference like that when using different qualities of fuel?

It could also be your driving style and/or where those miles were driven.

On the 3.6 there are 2 octanes that give noticeably different results: 87 and 89. It appears by all accounts that 93 is simply a waste of money since the design of the engine and the programming of the ECM can't profit from its use.

It's also been mentioned on here and other sites that Top Tier fuels are better at keeping your fuel system components cleaner than Mom-N-Pop brands. One site even had an idea that I liked. The poster said he used one brand of fuel for all the miles on one oil change then switched to another brand during the next one. I don't recall if he used 2 or 3 brands, but his logic seemed reasonable. He mentioned that different brands have different recipes for their additive packages, and all additives leave residues. While one brand will clean certain deposits and leave its own, another brand will clean some of those deposits and leave others. As he rotates the brands he expects to keep removing most of the deposits regardless of their sources and keep his system as clean as possible without any other additives needed.

In my area we have Shell and BP for the major brands. We used to have Chevron but they pulled all their stations out of Kentucky. I rarely use brands that aren't Top Tier no matter where I am.

something that might help you as well that is also very important is to use fuel injector cleaners, wait til your tank is almost empty then pour one in and gas up til full for best results, I use gumout brand followed by lucas brand,,,im not real sure how often you should use this but i do it every 3,thousand miles roughly, it'll clean out your fuel tank from the deposits that cud be robbing you some miles, i find it worked well for me