Hello and nice to be here first off. I have not found one yet so this is an unfortunately lengthy how-to for installing lowering springs on your gen 7 malibu. I tried to make few assumptions about a persons ability, so there are little things in here that I found made the install go a little easier. The suspension on this car is very easy to work on in my opinion but still expect to set aside a day to finish should problems arise. Just go slow and take your time and if you have a person to help all the better. Also, I used Eibach springs kit #38103.140. Whatever you use, the install should be close to the same.
Edit: Apologies I lost a bit more picture quality than I thought, if you need anything clarified just ask and I will try to help best I can.
Legal disclaimer: I am not forcing anyone to do this, working on your own vehicle is stupid and will result in death of you and probably anyone around you. I do not accept responsibility for anyone attempting this work, and do can not claim anything to be accurate. If you are not confident doing this by all means take it to a professional shop.
That over let's begin.
Gen 7 Malibu lowering springs install
Tools needed:
Ratchet or two
13/16” deep well socket
3/4” deep well socket
1/2” deep well socket
18mm deep well socket
18mm box wrench or second socket
10mm deep well socket
8mm deep well socket
Hammer
Pliers
Pry bar/ strong screwdriver etc.
*Impact gun (though you may get away without it if you can compress spring fully, this has been the only way I’ve seen to make sure the top strut nut actually tightens down on mount)
*18mm ratcheting box wrench (if sway bar end link nut just spins ball stud)
P.B. Blaster etc.
Strut spring compressor and matched socket for operating tool, mine was 24mm but there are several kinds out there depending if you own or rent from AutoZone etc.
Jack, preferably with a cup or plate style mount
Time: 1.5-12 hours
Here's what you begin with
Rears
Step 1 Jack up vehicle and support with jack stands.
Step 2 Remove wheel (3/4” deep well socket for lug nuts).
Step 3 Place jack under rear lower control arm perpendicular from car position and raise until just touching behind knuckle.
Step 4 Attach at least one spring compressor on spring to keep it from popping out. (bolt head pointed down for obvious reasons if using the two-part style compressor)
Step 5 Remove lower control arm bolt and nut, one, that’s all there is easy right? (18mm socket and 18mm box wrench). There is going to be some wiggling and possible hammering here; but if you’re gentle adjusting the jack height (having jack perpendicular keeps control arm from wanting to go too far left or right here) you should be able to wiggle the bolt right out.
Step 6 Slowly lower jack and control arm assembly and pull jack away.
Step 7 To remove spring push down on lower control arm (I used my foot) and pull top of spring first toward you careful not to damage any brake lines and pull it up over lower spring perch. Try to get the lower rubber isolator to come off with spring it makes it all the easier.
Step 8 Remove isolators if they didn’t come out with spring.
Rear spring comparison: factory left vs. Eibach right
Step 9 To install new lowering spring place smaller rubber isolator on top of spring trying to line up where spring terminates with the mark left in the isolator where previous spring ended. I used Eibach and they were short enough that there was no need to compress them to easily get them in place, but you can use the compressor if you feel safer here. If you do, just be sure that they/it will not end up hitting underneath the car. Repeat with the larger lower isolator, making sure it doesn’t fall off. Fun part, get top of spring pushed onto it’s mount, and while holding it in place use foot to push down on lower control arm while you slide bottom of spring/isolator over the little spring mount nub. Reposition jack underneath lower control arm slightly forward of where knuckle will go perpendicular to car. (makes biggest difference here)
Step 10 Raise control arm until knuckle bolt hole and control arm bolt holes line up. Adjust jack/knuckle until you can get the bolt (18mm) back in, bolt head goes toward front of car, nut faces rear. Hammer gently into place if needed. Tighten nut and bolt.
Step 11 Replace wheel.
Step 12 Repeat for other side lower vehicle to ground and the rear is finished.
Edit: Apologies I lost a bit more picture quality than I thought, if you need anything clarified just ask and I will try to help best I can.
Legal disclaimer: I am not forcing anyone to do this, working on your own vehicle is stupid and will result in death of you and probably anyone around you. I do not accept responsibility for anyone attempting this work, and do can not claim anything to be accurate. If you are not confident doing this by all means take it to a professional shop.
That over let's begin.
Gen 7 Malibu lowering springs install
Tools needed:
Ratchet or two
13/16” deep well socket
3/4” deep well socket
1/2” deep well socket
18mm deep well socket
18mm box wrench or second socket
10mm deep well socket
8mm deep well socket
Hammer
Pliers
Pry bar/ strong screwdriver etc.
*Impact gun (though you may get away without it if you can compress spring fully, this has been the only way I’ve seen to make sure the top strut nut actually tightens down on mount)
*18mm ratcheting box wrench (if sway bar end link nut just spins ball stud)
P.B. Blaster etc.
Strut spring compressor and matched socket for operating tool, mine was 24mm but there are several kinds out there depending if you own or rent from AutoZone etc.
Jack, preferably with a cup or plate style mount
Time: 1.5-12 hours
Here's what you begin with
Rears
Step 1 Jack up vehicle and support with jack stands.
Step 2 Remove wheel (3/4” deep well socket for lug nuts).
Step 3 Place jack under rear lower control arm perpendicular from car position and raise until just touching behind knuckle.
Step 4 Attach at least one spring compressor on spring to keep it from popping out. (bolt head pointed down for obvious reasons if using the two-part style compressor)
Step 5 Remove lower control arm bolt and nut, one, that’s all there is easy right? (18mm socket and 18mm box wrench). There is going to be some wiggling and possible hammering here; but if you’re gentle adjusting the jack height (having jack perpendicular keeps control arm from wanting to go too far left or right here) you should be able to wiggle the bolt right out.
Step 6 Slowly lower jack and control arm assembly and pull jack away.
Step 7 To remove spring push down on lower control arm (I used my foot) and pull top of spring first toward you careful not to damage any brake lines and pull it up over lower spring perch. Try to get the lower rubber isolator to come off with spring it makes it all the easier.
Step 8 Remove isolators if they didn’t come out with spring.
Rear spring comparison: factory left vs. Eibach right
Step 9 To install new lowering spring place smaller rubber isolator on top of spring trying to line up where spring terminates with the mark left in the isolator where previous spring ended. I used Eibach and they were short enough that there was no need to compress them to easily get them in place, but you can use the compressor if you feel safer here. If you do, just be sure that they/it will not end up hitting underneath the car. Repeat with the larger lower isolator, making sure it doesn’t fall off. Fun part, get top of spring pushed onto it’s mount, and while holding it in place use foot to push down on lower control arm while you slide bottom of spring/isolator over the little spring mount nub. Reposition jack underneath lower control arm slightly forward of where knuckle will go perpendicular to car. (makes biggest difference here)
Step 10 Raise control arm until knuckle bolt hole and control arm bolt holes line up. Adjust jack/knuckle until you can get the bolt (18mm) back in, bolt head goes toward front of car, nut faces rear. Hammer gently into place if needed. Tighten nut and bolt.
Step 11 Replace wheel.
Step 12 Repeat for other side lower vehicle to ground and the rear is finished.