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Old 11-19-2012, 01:20 PM   #51
DrivenDaily
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Default Re: How-to: Remove door panel and install aftermarket door lock actuator (an $8 fix!

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Old 11-20-2012, 08:27 AM   #52
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Default Re: How-to: Remove door panel and install aftermarket door lock actuator (an $8 fix!

Thank you for sharing your update, Boomdog15. I’m glad you were able to get this resolved.

From my family to yours, we hope you have an amazing Thanksgiving.

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Old 01-25-2013, 10:56 AM   #53
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Default Re: How-to: Remove door panel and install aftermarket door lock actuator (an $8 fix!

Dear Boro or other members,

I have read your "How-to" to remove the door panel of my malibu 2009.
I've use it to remove the led in the interor door handle. I've tried to remove the cable who came from door latch to the interior panel but i was unable to. I did not want to break anything on the door panel. I was able to remove the door handle led even if the cable was there.

Could you give me more info about this part, do i have to pull very hard o the attach of the cable to remove it?
Do i need o twist the connector that hold the cable with plier to remove it?

Because i will need to disamble the interior door one more time. The door speaker is broke.

Thanks in advance and excsue my english.
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Last edited by Lessy2009; 01-27-2013 at 02:03 PM. Reason: wrong spelling
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:37 PM   #54
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Default Re: How-to: Remove door panel and install aftermarket door lock actuator (an $8 fix!

just completed this fix on my rear passenger door and was not as hard as i was thinking it would be...thanks to the op for the write up
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Old 04-30-2013, 03:41 PM   #55
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Default Re: How-to: Remove door panel and install aftermarket door lock actuator (an $8 fix!

Great How-to!!! I used this to fix my left rear door, although it worked opposite the other doors until I switched the wires. I'd recommend checking it before you solder/crimp those connections, there must be some differences in the actuators out there!
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:41 PM   #56
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Default Re: How-to: Remove door panel and install aftermarket door lock actuator (an $8 fix!

I just replaced my actuater on my front passenger side. First thing was the wiring in my door didn't match the description. I had two tan wires. I of course picked the wrong one the first time. Then I got it to work put everything back together and I realize that the lock is working the opposite of how it is supposed to. When I push the lock button it unlocks and vice versa. Is this just the actuated wired back wards?
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:18 PM   #57
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Default Re: How-to: Remove door panel and install aftermarket door lock actuator (an $8 fix!

Yeah you probably just got the wires switched around. ..I did that too when I did mine
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:29 PM   #58
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Default Re: How-to: Remove door panel and install aftermarket door lock actuator (an $8 fix!

Yep, reverse the polarity of the wires.

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Old 10-06-2013, 03:42 PM   #59
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Default Re: How-to: Remove door panel and install aftermarket door lock actuator (an $8 fix!

Just followed this DIY to replace the actuator on my 2009 Malibu LT - right rear door. Thanks to Boro and everybody who commented and provided further guidance on this thread. Great directions and pictures, took me about 3.5 hours, which included having to reverse the wiring to sync it with the lock/unlock operation. I failed to verify it was in sync when testing the door before I crimped my wires together - rookie move. Damn near was ready to put the panel back on before seeing it was working opposite the other doors - whew! Luckily had plenty of wire length to spare so just cut the wires again, reversed the green and black and recrimped. Btw - I didn't solder the wires together - I just bought butt connectors at Radio Shack and some extra 18 gauge wire which worked perfectly. Total cost $17 - $10 for actuator, $7 connectors/wire. Thanks again!
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Old 10-27-2013, 08:39 PM   #60
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Lightbulb Re: How-to: Remove door panel and install aftermarket door lock actuator (an $8 fix!

I was quite excited to come across this great post a few weeks back. While I don't have the Malibu, I do have a Buick LaCrosse, that is built like all the other GM vehicles of this era and use the standard mechanism for the lock actuator. I was frustrated at hearing the parts prices $129 and $119, as I needed both rear door actuators to get fixed. Both kicked out on me within two weeks of each other.

I was able to document my process with a few pictures that I can share with the forum here and regardless of the GM vehicle, it can usually be repaired in a similar manner with the great after-market actuators. I actually splurged and purchased a 4-pack for under $18.00, including shipping from that big auction site.

The process for removing the door panel is similar, but should be reviewed first and I found some tips on the Web, as well as videos in my search, too.

With the inside door trim removed, I located the tan and grey wires. I then cut the wires and installed the actuator. Mine had to be oriented a bit different than the one on the Malibu as my door lock button is towards the front of the door on the LaCrosse.

In this image, I've labeled the arrows #1, #2, and #3.

The door insulation had to be trimmed (arrow #1) a bit in my case to allow for the mount of the actuator. Arrow #2 indicates how I positioned the actuator on the inside door of my car. Arrow #3 shows how I used the clamp provided with the actuator to connect the arm from the new actuator to my existing rod for the door lock mechanism. In my case, the actuator "pulls" the rod when engaged.



If the image doesn't appear, here is the link to the image in my gallery:
http://www.chevymalibuforum.com/foru...pictureid=4146

Here is a picture of the inside of my door trim. I had to remove a bit of the styrofoam foam block in order to allow for room to mount the actuator. Also, I had to snip one of the plastic tabs off so it didn't protrude into the area where the actuator was to be placed.



If the image doesn't appear, here is the link to the picture in my gallery:

http://www.chevymalibuforum.com/foru...pictureid=4154


I can't thank those who have contributed towards the effort - especially the original poster. I'm thankful that we don't have to open our wallets to replace parts that could very well only last us one year.
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