My stepdaughter's Malibu wouldn't start. I tried jumping with my car with no luck. A guy in a big pickup with heavier jumper cables tried and we got it started. However, a mile from the house, the car died. We got it into a parking it, and the next morning I pulled the battery to have it tested. It was bad, so I replaced it. The car started finem, so I drove it to Advance Auto and had it tested again, just to be safe and make sure everything was okay. Specifically, I wanted to make sure the alternator was good. The battery, alternator and starter tested good.
However, the next day, the car wouldn't crank again. I was out of town, so we had to get the car towed to the house, which is where it is now. I tried pulling the codes, but my reader didn't see any. When I turn the key to the ON position, all the lights come on and go off. The only lights that stay on are the battery, check engine and theft lights. When I try to start the car, the theft light goes off. I can hear the fuel pump prime, but the engine doesn't offer to crank. Complete silence.
Is it more likely to be a bad starter/solenoid, ignition/cylinder swith, passkey issue, or something else? At this point, I'm just trying to figure out the best place to start troubleshooting. I'm about to try the relearn procedure 'cause I'm out of ides. Thanks in advance!!
That's initially along the lines that I was thinking, but the battery has a charge and should at least try to crank... but nothing. It's like the strater isn't engaging.
I read that it's good to replace both at the same time. Can you get them together as an assembly? Also, based on the symptoms, am I on the right track? I just checked the ignition-related fuses in the engine compartment, and all they were all good.
I read that it's good to replace both at the same time. Can you get them together as an assembly? Also, based on the symptoms, am I on the right track? I just checked the ignition-related fuses in the engine compartment, and all they were all good.
Yes, both are available as an assembly.
A good locksmith can either rekey the ignition tumblers to match your key, or custom cut a key to have the ignition pattern one side, the door pattern the other side (means it'll take at least three tries to unlock the door or start the car, but eh ... )
RockAuto has the two as a combo.
Just be sitting down - I almost swallowed my tongue at how much it would run.
RwP
__________________
335K miles on original motor and tranny (only motor work 2 x LIM replacement), Monroe SensaTrac struts front and back (new at approx. 300K miles), and Alero discs in back. LS fogs added with custom wiring. HID high beams, HIR low and halogen fogs. Raybestos Pro Grade front rotors and Bendix D747 ceramic pads on front.
Addendum: Rest in peace. Surge tank blew, motor overheated, I think she's lived a long and useful life.
symptons -
when i turn the key, complete silence
dash lights come on
battery charged 12.48Volts
will not start with a 500Amp portable battery pack
may i ask how have you guys narrowed it down to the ignition switch ?(just don't know how you ruled out the starter or tumbler)
i measured the voltage at the cigarette lighter and it reads .02 volts more while putting the key in the final position (remember complete silence) - not sure if this can help us in figuring out if this the ignition switch, starter, tumbler
its to my understanding the voltage should drop 2volts during this process
Probably by using a voltmeter. Or going off of "most common failures".
But if the key is turning, then it's not the tumblers - the tumblers unlock the cylinder so it can turn.
RwP
__________________
335K miles on original motor and tranny (only motor work 2 x LIM replacement), Monroe SensaTrac struts front and back (new at approx. 300K miles), and Alero discs in back. LS fogs added with custom wiring. HID high beams, HIR low and halogen fogs. Raybestos Pro Grade front rotors and Bendix D747 ceramic pads on front.
Addendum: Rest in peace. Surge tank blew, motor overheated, I think she's lived a long and useful life.
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