I haven't tore into my malibu's electric yet but will soon and if it's anything like my sierra all the fuses were constant only place I could find a switched positive was up under the steering column for a remote for my amp.
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2013 Chevy Malibu 2LT
Crystal Red Tint
Leather and Pioneer
2011 GMC Sierra SLE
Chrome pkg and 20's
2008 Cadillac CTS4
2007 Harley Ultra Classic
1990 Chevy Camaro RS
1986 Ford Mustang
460/c6 caged and tied
1986 24' Searay 245se
1968 14' Duoboat
I am an electrical engineer, and those stuff wouldn't be a problem.
I read the electrical circuit graph of malibu, and it appears all fuses are directly connected to battery. Aren't they?
I'm not an engineer.
The schematics show quite a few fuses that are "Hot At All Times", but there are plenty more that aren't. Trust me, I've used the Add-A-Circuit on quite a few of my modifications and there are fuses with switched power in the fuse block.
Being an engineer you should be able to manage a simple test light. Get in the car, shut the doors (to turn off the lights and kill any RAP), then start testing. Start with key off, test all fuses, mark those with power. Move key to ACC and mark those that change, then move key to RUN and mark some more.
Takes time but you'll figure it out. If you can't, have someone help you.
__________________
'11 LTZ, born Aug 2010, Fairfax, KS
V6/A6, Red Jewel Tintcoat / Cocoa-Cashmere, Sunroof
Cool Mods: Drop-in K&N air filter; 20% tint, DRLs on turn signals,
Painted grilles, 1-wipe washer, WeatherTech mats, CHMSL Pulser
That's great! I thought all the fuse are constant.
If there're some switched fuse, the add-a-circuit is the best tool!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrivenDaily
I'm not an engineer.
The schematics show quite a few fuses that are "Hot At All Times", but there are plenty more that aren't. Trust me, I've used the Add-A-Circuit on quite a few of my modifications and there are fuses with switched power in the fuse block.
Being an engineer you should be able to manage a simple test light. Get in the car, shut the doors (to turn off the lights and kill any RAP), then start testing. Start with key off, test all fuses, mark those with power. Move key to ACC and mark those that change, then move key to RUN and mark some more.
Takes time but you'll figure it out. If you can't, have someone help you.
Pg 62 of that PDF has the switched fuses that are in the right side center console BCM.
Depending on the model you have, I would suggest using the fuse location for the Heated Seat/Roof fuse, since, it is possible you don't have heated seats or a power sunroof, and even if you do, you should be able to tap this fuse with an add a circuit, put a 10A fuse in for your power tap, and a 10A fuse for the roof/seats. This would put a 20A max load on the main circuit, which is probably OK. You Might want to be careful if you actually have heated seats, but this circuit appears to only be the power for the control portion of the roof or seats, not the actual current for the heater or roof motor; it also seems to protect the aux power outlet switch.
In general, be conscious of how much extra load you put on a tapped circuit, as the underlying wiring on the battery side of the fuse may not be properly sized for the extra current draw you add and you could create a fire hazard. Really, according to this simple table the underlying circuit should be 14guage wire if carrying 20A. Not sure what is used in our cars for power distribution, but you are likely safe tapping at the fuse panel with an add a circuit and 2 10A fuses in it. Then, use up to 15 feet of 18 gauge wire to run from there for power to your circuit.
Disclaimer: I only interpreted the tables and the schematics, I did not do an actual engineering assessment of your circuit plans, load, and whatever, so use the info above at your own risk.
Pg 62 of that PDF has the switched fuses that are in the right side center console BCM.
Depending on the model you have, I would suggest using the fuse location for the Heated Seat/Roof fuse, since, it is possible you don't have heated seats or a power sunroof, and even if you do, you should be able to tap this fuse with an add a circuit, put a 10A fuse in for your power tap, and a 10A fuse for the roof/seats. This would put a 20A max load on the main circuit, which is probably OK. You Might want to be careful if you actually have heated seats, but this circuit appears to only be the power for the control portion of the roof or seats, not the actual current for the heater or roof motor; it also seems to protect the aux power outlet switch.
In general, be conscious of how much extra load you put on a tapped circuit, as the underlying wiring on the battery side of the fuse may not be properly sized for the extra current draw you add and you could create a fire hazard. Really, according to this simple table the underlying circuit should be 14guage wire if carrying 20A. Not sure what is used in our cars for power distribution, but you are likely safe tapping at the fuse panel with an add a circuit and 2 10A fuses in it. Then, use up to 15 feet of 18 gauge wire to run from there for power to your circuit.
Disclaimer: I only interpreted the tables and the schematics, I did not do an actual engineering assessment of your circuit plans, load, and whatever, so use the info above at your own risk.
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Mods: Drop-in K&N air filter; 20% tint, DRLs on turn signals,
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