Steering/front suspension noises/clunks thread.

[DrivenDaily]

OE parts under warranty will almost 100% of the time be replaced with an OE part, no upgrade, unless the mfr. approves the change.

Imagine if the B2B covers it and it fails at 10K miles. If they install a Monroe strut to replace an OE part and the Monroe fails in 20K miles (now at 30K and still under B2B) who pays the labor this time? Well, since they set the precedent they will have to do it under warranty again and it's not even their part that failed - they were just "doing you a favor". They would rather stick their heads in a hornet's nest!

If you really just gotta have the best parts or think the OE parts are just so much junk then maybe you should sell the car and go buy the right one to start with. I'm not defending the OE's use of "junk" but we all know going in that they subcontract the parts out to the lowest bidders and then have to work with those suppliers if/when parts fail or become problematic. Neither the OE nor the parts supplier want to have to make a design change to the original design of the part, but if that's what it takes for the supplier to keep the contract then that's what will happen. (I'm sure I'm leaving all sorts of legal and other details out, but you get the drift.)

When my stuff finally wears out, or if I become dissatisfied with the performance, I'll replace the parts with ones I like and hope they work better and/or longer. I'll even complain about the build quality or idiotic design, but I'm keeping the car nonetheless.

[hjlint]

Originally Posted by DrivenDaily

OE parts under warranty will almost 100% of the time be replaced with an OE part, no upgrade, unless the mfr. approves the change.

Imagine if the B2B covers it and it fails at 10K miles. If they install a Monroe strut to replace an OE part and the Monroe fails in 20K miles (now at 30K and still under B2B) who pays the labor this time? Well, since they set the precedent they will have to do it under warranty again and it's not even their part that failed - they were just "doing you a favor". They would rather stick their heads in a hornet's nest!

If you really just gotta have the best parts or think the OE parts are just so much junk then maybe you should sell the car and go buy the right one to start with. I'm not defending the OE's use of "junk" but we all know going in that they subcontract the parts out to the lowest bidders and then have to work with those suppliers if/when parts fail or become problematic. Neither the OE nor the parts supplier want to have to make a design change to the original design of the part, but if that's what it takes for the supplier to keep the contract then that's what will happen. (I'm sure I'm leaving all sorts of legal and other details out, but you get the drift.)

When my stuff finally wears out, or if I become dissatisfied with the performance, I'll replace the parts with ones I like and hope they work better and/or longer. I'll even complain about the build quality or idiotic design, but I'm keeping the car nonetheless.

My dealer and the Factory field rep said this problem is normal and refused to try anything. Another dealer replaced the r/f strut mount and it lasted about 100 miles. I made the mistake of leasing this car. I have months left and it goes back. I'll not put $300 plus if it can't be fixed. GM calls this noise normal. The factory rep told me while on a test drive, !!remember this is only a chevrolet not a cadillac.

[ericthex]

I cant believe that a field rep. would say that. I dont know about you but that noises is not normal at all. Ive drove cars with WAY more miles than what mine has and don't sound or feel like that.. I hope that GM comes up with something soon.. thats just my opinion. and I am thinking about buying something different if there isnt a fix .

[hjlint]

Originally Posted by ericthex

I cant believe that a field rep. would say that. I dont know about you but that noises is not normal at all. Ive drove cars with WAY more miles than what mine has and don't sound or feel like that.. I hope that GM comes up with something soon.. thats just my opinion. and I am thinking about buying something different if there isnt a fix .

A little background on this and me. I bought my 1st GM in 1947. I am a Auto technician by trade. Cadillac pontiac Service Manager for 15 years ( I treated my customers like Sutliff Chevrolet treated me i would have been fired.)
Tis noise came at about 200 miles on the speedo. Also had a bad engine surge in 5t/6th gear at 2000 RPM. They didn't want to fix either item. After leaving the car for two days the said theu couldn't duplicate the problem. No I guess not. The car wasn't moved in those two days. The #2 trip milage was still at (0). Neve move from the spot it was parked in. When I confronted the write up man his response was, I had 125 cars tuesday and 100 that day( 2nd day) what did I expect. I providded he tech bulletien for the PCM Update to correct the surge. Never anything done for the rattle R/Front. They continued to tell me that noise is normal on this line of GM line of car.. You can look through Malibu forum and find this is a problem back to 2008 models including Saturn and Olds. When I contacted GM Tech support, I get a Foriegn Tec support person, they contact the dealer service Dept, they tell him cars is ok, nothing to fix. Two times with this. I finally got an appointment with the Field rep, Met him inside the show room, Before he got in the car he said, the noise you hear is normal for this model. (again he hasen't hear the noise yet) While on the road test he keep saying see this is normal. He then told me about Cadillac hacing a noise but said now because it is a Cadillac we fix it (but remember this is only a Chevrolet) Initials of the rep. B W. I know when something is normal and I can assure any ne this rattle trap is not normal. Thank you for replying. You have more interest in this than GM has shown.

[Chevrolet Customer Svc]

Originally Posted by ericthex

I cant believe that a field rep. would say that. I dont know about you but that noises is not normal at all. Ive drove cars with WAY more miles than what mine has and don't sound or feel like that.. I hope that GM comes up with something soon.. thats just my opinion. and I am thinking about buying something different if there isnt a fix .

Originally Posted by hjlint

A little background on this and me. I bought my 1st GM in 1947. I am a Auto technician by trade. Cadillac pontiac Service Manager for 15 years ( I treated my customers like Sutliff Chevrolet treated me i would have been fired.)
Tis noise came at about 200 miles on the speedo. Also had a bad engine surge in 5t/6th gear at 2000 RPM. They didn't want to fix either item. After leaving the car for two days the said theu couldn't duplicate the problem. No I guess not. The car wasn't moved in those two days. The #2 trip milage was still at (0). Neve move from the spot it was parked in. When I confronted the write up man his response was, I had 125 cars tuesday and 100 that day( 2nd day) what did I expect. I providded he tech bulletien for the PCM Update to correct the surge. Never anything done for the rattle R/Front. They continued to tell me that noise is normal on this line of GM line of car.. You can look through Malibu forum and find this is a problem back to 2008 models including Saturn and Olds. When I contacted GM Tech support, I get a Foriegn Tec support person, they contact the dealer service Dept, they tell him cars is ok, nothing to fix. Two times with this. I finally got an appointment with the Field rep, Met him inside the show room, Before he got in the car he said, the noise you hear is normal for this model. (again he hasen't hear the noise yet) While on the road test he keep saying see this is normal. He then told me about Cadillac hacing a noise but said now because it is a Cadillac we fix it (but remember this is only a Chevrolet) Initials of the rep. B W. I know when something is normal and I can assure any ne this rattle trap is not normal. Thank you for replying. You have more interest in this than GM has shown.

ericthex and hjlint,
I am sorry to hear about the issues you have been experiencing. If either of you would like to private message me about your concerns please feel free to do so anytime! Please include your contact information, VIN, mileage and name of dealer with any inquiries. I am willing to assist you in any way I can.
Thank you,
Sara
Chevrolet Customer Service

[hjlint]

Originally Posted by Chevrolet Customer Svc

ericthex and hjlint,
I am sorry to hear about the issues you have been experiencing. If either of you would like to private message me about your concerns please feel free to do so anytime! Please include your contact information, VIN, mileage and name of dealer with any inquiries. I am willing to assist you in any way I can.
Thank you,
Sara
Chevrolet Customer Service

I tried several times to work with GM Tech support but that was a waste of The field reps and my time. The dealer service manager is not willing to do anything for this problem and instructed the field rep to do nothing. I somewhat understand why Sutliff refused to do anything. They have to install the same OE parts and that will not last. Another dealer was willing to try to help.(Klick Lewis) They replaced the Steering rack and Right strut mount. Worked for about 100 miles and now is worse than before. I had a PO code that needed to be looked at and had to take it to Klick Lewis to get it repaired. Sutliff takes your vehicle, parks it and lets it sit for several days and then tell me can't dublicate the problem.
Hedley Lint
24,000 miles.
VIN# 1G1ZC5EBXAF252075.
Sutliff Chevrolet in Harrisburg, PA. is the selling dealer.
I have 6 months left on my lease. I will turn it in as required but will buy another vehicle eslwere.

[Chevrolet Customer Svc]

Originally Posted by hjlint

I tried several times to work with GM Tech support but that was a waste of The field reps and my time. The dealer service manager is not willing to do anything for this problem and instructed the field rep to do nothing. I somewhat understand why Sutliff refused to do anything. They have to install the same OE parts and that will not last. Another dealer was willing to try to help.(Klick Lewis) They replaced the Steering rack and Right strut mount. Worked for about 100 miles and now is worse than before. I had a PO code that needed to be looked at and had to take it to Klick Lewis to get it repaired. Sutliff takes your vehicle, parks it and lets it sit for several days and then tell me can't dublicate the problem.
Hedley Lint
24,000 miles.
VIN# 1G1ZC5EBXAF252075.
Sutliff Chevrolet in Harrisburg, PA. is the selling dealer.
I have 6 months left on my lease. I will turn it in as required but will buy another vehicle eslwere.

Hi Mr. Lint, I will send you a private message regarding your situation.

Thank you for contacting me.

Sincerely,
Sara
Chevrolet Customer Service

[White Diamond]

Finally success! After changing my OEM struts to Monore Sensatrac and Monroe mounts all frontend clunks have been eliminated. Not a sound! Just the way the car should have been from new. The new struts have improved the ride and impact noise from bumps, but most of all regardless of the temperature all clunking has now disappeared. I didn't go with Monroe Quick Struts but bought separate struts and mounts.

[AuditorBill]

My dull thunking (like an empty milk jug) on the driver's side on washboard roads at 25 or so mph, ended up being a strut, which the dealer replaced for free yesterday. The noise is gone. They had replaced a control arm bushing on that side 10K miles ago, but the noise never really went away.

A 66-year old mechanic friend of mine is appalled that they only changed the one side's strut (and control arm bushing, for that matter). I swear, when I picked the car up it did seem like it was listing to the right a bit. Maybe that will go away.

[tregojoe]

Struts or shocks should always be replaced as a pair. The OEM struts are crap so your pleasure may be temporary. Park your car on a level surface, make sure the tires have the same PSI, and measure from the ground to the bottom of the fender just above the tires to see if one side is higher than the other.