Door Lock Actuator Recall?

[greenman]

Originally Posted by monla

I'm sorry, but I am so glad that it happened to you! One has to have a witness to be taken seriously. I'm going to print out your comments when I go to service this week. Thanks a MILLION!

Fair warning:

If you're looking for warranty coverage under B2B, unless the tech can replicate the problem for himself, you would be completely wasting your time. That's the way it rolls with intermittent issues.

If you want to just pay for it yourself, tell them to replace the latch (a dealer charges over $200).

[monla]

[quote=greenman;107058]Fair warning:

Oh my thanks for the warning. I'll have them try and if they have no success I'll follow:

the How-To section about using aftermarket actuators to completely bypass the defective-by-design

that DrivenDaily referred to.

I'd try your

Have you tried squirting white silicone grease (walmart or any auto parts store) into the latch?

but then I'd run the risk of it being the latch, which due to the sporatic nature of this problem, I suspect.

[monla]

I took my 2010 Malibu LT in for service. I took copies of several of the e-mails in this stream but the service advisor was not interested in seeing the conversation. He said they would test the lock. They replaced the lock and the paperwork said "no/incorrect communication--internal failure". At first they said it was covered under warranty but have since called to say they will be charging me $100 since warranty has expired. After re-reading gamester5, I think I will see if I can get that reduced. Not too happy after re-reading DrivenDaily "still the same basic part" but we'll see what happens.

[DrivenDaily]

If they said in writing that it was covered under warranty and/or if you have the concern noted before warranty expired, you should be able to get them to waive the $100. I'm not there so I don't know all the details and what was said, etc, so you'll have to fight that battle, but it's one worth considering.

[monla]

Originally Posted by DrivenDaily

If they said in writing that it was covered under warranty and/or if you have the concern noted before warranty expired, you should be able to get them to waive the $100. I'm not there so I don't know all the details and what was said, etc, so you'll have to fight that battle, but it's one worth considering.

I had complained the two previous times that it happened but they did not write it down. Im learning; (one) now I'm going to the same service guy each time and (two) I need to make sure they write these things down.

[yomik]

What a POS this is.........let me name the ways besides the Actuator:

- water leaks on drivers side
- recalls of Herculean proportions
- click in front end when turning
- replaced the fobs already
- hesitation at high speed


3 words.....by Japanese engineered

[DrivenDaily]

Japanese engineering isn't to blame. The decided to combine the latch and actuator, which by itself isn't an issue, but putting the actuator motor in the housing and having the contacts touch instead of soldering them is basically what causes the failures.

If/when mine fail I'm installing aftermarket units that bypass the failure-prone stock versions.

The water leaks - is that from a sunroof or something else?

Recalls? I've never had one. I owned an '09 and now an '11.

The fobs are notorious for failing, but if ya know how to do even the simplest repairs you can fix it yourself and save a lot of $$. I added the KeylessFix.com contact inserts to mine and that cured the problem immediately.

Hesitation - 4-cylinder or V6? Both suffer from the same drive-by-wire issues. Slow to respond to pedal input, slow to shift to another gear, slow to downshift when you goose it. Is that the hesitation you speak of, or something else?

Before we get too far off-topic, if there is going to be a lengthy discussion of your issues, please start a new thread.

[monla]

Originally Posted by DrivenDaily

If they said in writing that it was covered under warranty and/or if you have the concern noted before warranty expired, you should be able to get them to waive the $100. I'm not there so I don't know all the details and what was said, etc, so you'll have to fight that battle, but it's one worth considering.

Oh yes "that battle", the Service Tech said the $100 is the deductible for the expired warranty?? What deductible? When I received the "bill" for the $100, it was a short letter from the "warranty administrator" asking for the $100 attached to a copy of the original invoice that shows "N/C" all over it. The letter says "the repairs are no longer covered by the factory warranty...the factory will cover the cost of the repairs less $100 participation from you the customer". So I called the Head of the Service Dept to ask about this "deductible" or "participation" and really no "invoice" just a letter. He said I did not have to pay the $100, that I had my car, but that the $100 would fall on the Service Tech, as it was his error. During our conversation he also said something to the effect that other kinds of cars have these problems. At that point, I was truly sorry that I had purchased a Malibu, my first Chevy. Why did I buy it? It had a great SAFETY write-up; what a crock! I have NEVER had a car that had door lock problems, and now I have no respect for this dealership that wants to make light of this problem. I have had VWs, Toyotas, Hondas, Fords and a Saturn....not one door lock did not open EVER. And as for that pesky $100, the Service Tech is a nice enough guy and we all make mistakes (me in buying a Chevy) so I'll sent my $100 so that he doesn't have to eat it.

[DrivenDaily]

He won't - it'll come out of the dealerships. It's not likely they can force him to pay for that.

[TA Tom]

Has there been updates to the power lock actuators? Seems everytime I check there's a different set of part numbers and prices.

Latest part numbers:
22865518
22865519
22865520
22865521