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Car does not want to start after adding gas to the gas tank

90K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  indianraja 
#1 ·
2010 Chevy Malibu (86,000 miles)

I filled my tank about halfway a few days ago and when I went to start it, it would not start. I had to pump the gas a couple of times. My husband drove it the next morning and the check engine light came on. He took it to get the code and it is throwing a gas cap code. Replaced it and hoped the light would go off. This morning, I filled it half way with gas again, and same thing...car wouldnt start and i had to pump the gas pedal to get it to start. Both times the start was really rough. The light is still on. Any ideas as to what this could be?

I appreciate the help.
 
#2 · (Edited)
To start with, "pumping the gas" doesn't work on EFI vehicles like ours. In the days of carburetors the physical action would actually squirt fuel into the intake and make a richer AFR (air-fuel ratio), enabling a cold engine to start more easily, but only if it wasn't flooded with too much fuel.

On EFI the fuel is controlled by the computer and reacts to the "gas" pedal, which now simply moves the throttle plate to allow more air to enter the intake. The computer meters the air flow (MAF - mass air flow - on ours) and calculates the correct injector timing pulse or looks up a value in a table.

Being difficult to start can be several different things.

1. Is the battery fully charged and capable of starting your car in cold weather? On a 2010 the battery may still be covered either fully or at a pro-rated amount. Have it tested and make a decision on whether to replace it.

2. Is the alternator charging the battery fully? Have it tested and possibly replaced under warranty if defective.

3. Are the battery cables clean where they connect to the battery? Are they clean where they connect at the other ends? A poor or dirty ground connection can do what you describe.

4. When driving the car did it seem like it was running poorly, especially at highway speeds? You may have gotten junk or water in the fuel. Water is heavier than gas and sinks to the bottom of the tank, which is what you'll suck up first. If it's just a small amount it could make starting difficult but still allow just enough fuel to sputter. Then, once running, the increased flow would be enough to keep it running, even if poorly. When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Might be a good time to service it.

5. Did you fill up at the same station and/or same pump? You might have junk or water from the first time, and if the same pump, more of the same. See #4 above.

6. The gas cap code won't prevent it from starting. It simply lets you know you didn't get the tank sealed properly, either from leaving it off, not closing it fully, or from a failed gasket.

7. If the injectors are leaking fuel after shutting off it could be flooding the engine with fuel vapors and stepping on the throttle allows more air to mix and eventually start. Do you use "Top Tier" fuels or "Mom N Pop" gas? Top Tier fuels actually help keep things clean, including your injectors. If you use Mom N Pop fuels then you might want to consider Chevron Techroline additive. It might be good to double-dose it a time or two. If dirty injectors and/or valves is the cause this product can definitely help!

8. Is the starter weak? Or drawing too much amperage? Having it checked can possibly lead to a solution.
 
#7 · (Edited)
To start with, "pumping the gas" doesn't work on EFI vehicles like ours. In the days of carburetors the physical action would actually squirt fuel into the intake and make a richer AFR (air-fuel ratio), enabling a cold engine to start more easily, but only if it wasn't flooded with too much fuel.
Absolutely right. The only input from the accelerator pedal the fuel injection computer will respond to while in start mode is if you press the pedal to the floor & hold it there. That engages 'clear flood mode' which cuts off most of the liquid fuel being injected into the cylinders until the engine starts.
 
#3 ·
There are no problems with starting other than these two instances. The car runs fine once it is started. I did get fuel both times from the same place. I will check everything else and fuel up somewhere else to see if that alleviates the problem. Thanks for the tips :)
 
#4 · (Edited)
Maybe its a Fuel Pressure Problem. Has it been checked? I had one in a previous car that, When I shut the engine off, Lost all pressure. The heat from the engine was causing "Vaporlock". Would not start unless I cycled the key a couple of times. The Escape(Traded for Malibu) does not use a Return Line to the tank. The Pressure Regulator (Built into the pump) was stuck open. I wonder if its the same problem here??
 
#6 · (Edited)
2010 Chevy Malibu (86,000 miles)

I filled my tank about halfway a few days ago and when I went to start it, it would not start. I had to pump the gas a couple of times. My husband drove it the next morning and the check engine light came on. He took it to get the code and it is throwing a gas cap code. Replaced it and hoped the light would go off. This morning, I filled it half way with gas again, and same thing...car wouldnt start and i had to pump the gas pedal to get it to start. Both times the start was really rough. The light is still on. Any ideas as to what this could be?
That is most often caused by a stuck-open evap purge valve. What exact code did it throw?

Pressing the accelerator pedal to the floor & holding it there will activate fuel injection 'clear flood mode' & make it easier to start if I'm right about the purge valve.

Good news is that its a very simple to replace part.
 
#11 ·
Greenman,

You were absolutely right! The dealer confirmed it was the purge valve, so the purge solenoid and canister will need to be replaced. The dealer quoted around $200 to repair, but I am taking it to my regular mechanic and he will do the repairs for around $100. Thank you all for the info!
 
#8 ·
We certainly apologize for any inconveniences you are experiencing with this. If you would like, I can check your VIN to see if anything is applicable on your vehicle. Also please send me the mileage along with the VIN. Have you been to the dealership yet for this concern?

Brandon (assisting Michelle)
Chevrolet Customer Service
 
#9 ·
Hi Brandon,

I have not been to the dealer yet because I am recovering from Christmas and dread the cost of diagnostics (if there is or will be a cost). I am going to give them a call when they open this morning. Also, just to let you know, I filled completely up this morning and the car started really rough, but it started the first time. I do not have this problem any other time, only after fueling.

My VIN is 1G1ZC5E05AF167837
Mileage is 86182
 
#13 ·
I have a exact similar problem for the last 5 weeks on my 2011 Chevy Malibu LT with 123K miles. Recently took it to dealership about 4 weeks ago. They replaced some O2 sensors and said it should be all good. Paid a bill of $450 plus. Then 2 days later I am back to the same problem and the check engine light is on again. Took it to the dealership and they have no clue what is causing it. I may have to try what's suggested above. I just dread taking it to the dealership again. Its very sad that my 2000 Honda civic had 315 thousand miles and had been to the dealership less than this Chevy has been in the 2 years I have had it. May have to be my last Chevy!! :(
 
#14 ·
It is very hard for anyone to help you over the internet with such little information. If the check engine light is on, then a code must be set in the car's computer. You can take your car to a local auto parts store such as "Autozone" where, usually for no charge, they will read the fault codes. With these codes it's a little easier to determine what is wrong.
 
#15 ·
I have taken it to the dealer each time the check engine light has come one. Their error code interpretation is Oxygen sensor bank one. (Whatever that means) It was the second visit that they replaced those sensors and I paid the $450 plus.
Fast forward and 3 more times I have taken in for the check engine light both at the dealership and autozone. Same error code interpretation.
Now they want to sit there and replace more O2 sensors that they say are in the rear. And me having to pay another $500 bill. And that's their GUESS what is causing the car to not start after filling gas.
I am willing to pay for a solution but not be a guinea pig and have to pay for them to figure out a solution at my expense.
I had another problem in this same car when it was at 30K miles and it took two dealerships and 90 days and me reaching out to GM to be finally taken care of. Shouldn't the dealership be capable enough to handle issues on the car they sell and are certified to repair????
I am just frustrated the way they handle things and with their incompetency.
 
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