Chevrolet Malibu Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

2.4L Oil Change How too...?

52K views 36 replies 18 participants last post by  E_Net_Rider 
#1 ·
I've been picking through the oil change thread and seen pics posted of filters and links & talk of the required socket to get at the filter.

I have a pretty shallow socket that still would not clear the plastic cover above it. Nor can I see how to get the plastic engine cover off. Now I am a pretty mechanicly inclined guy, have changed out rear diff seals, fuel pump on my truck, recently did wheel bearings on it but some what I seen under the hood scares me.

I'm not due for an oil change for awhile but intend on doing it early. I just want to be prepared.

So... Could someone post a how to with pics next time they do theirs?

Thanks
 
#8 ·
I have a lift in my garage and enjoy doing minor maintenance on my vehicles. The Malibu is probably one of the easiest oil changes to do - after getting the right socket tool. It is not messy either. After hearing about the oil shooting out of the drain plug, I was prepared and had my oil catch basin in just the right spot. Synthetic in, dino oil out!:)
 
#9 ·
Changed mine today 2188 miles. Easy job, switched to Pennzoil Synth. I did find two metal shavings in the filter so I bagged & tagged it.

Oil life meter was only at 83% at that rate and the way my wife drives... the first oil change would be due at 11,000 miles. No way would I wait half that long on the first one.
 
#11 ·
I don't have any ramps (yet) and any easy details around what anyone has that works for length/height/incline angle or even make/model of ramps would be appreciated?

I was concerned about being able to clear the ramp considering how low the car is. I'm ready to do my first oil change and really appreciate all the good info in the forum. Thanks
 
#13 ·
They make some nice ramps now - for low cars like Corvettes - that you can remove the drive up section after your car is there, though its best to have her nice and level while in the air. A sloped driveway is good for that. Too bad you are not close, could swing by and use my lift. Doing Vette headers tomorrow and installing some clear mask on a Caddy and another Vette.
 
#15 ·
I'm going to put in my two cents..

For anyone getting ready to do this, be prepared for an oil stream that will knock your socks off! (now on to an explanation)

I have drain pan that has very shallow sides, and the top is used as the collection basin, with the reservoir below. The oil shot out with such force, and at a shallow angle, that it ricocheted over the sides of the pan and splashed onto the floor. After a second i was able to push the pan back MUCH farther and minimize the splash-over, but then there was a very fine dribble that fell straight down from the plug.

Since the plug is horizontal, i think this exacerbates the problem.

Did anyone else have this happen to them?

BTW, with the Lisle filter socket, that part is a dream...

ferb!
 
#17 ·
Thanks for the warning. Haven't changed the oil in my Bu yet, but I did have that happen with my Honda outboard the first time I changed it. It shot about 3 feet past the bucket, and all over my shoe, before I could move the bucket. A small drain hole on the bottom of 7 quarts of oil really throws a pretty good stream.
 
#18 ·
This is an easy car to change the oil.

1. I run my Malibu up onto two ramps I bought at walmart.

2. Drain the oil into a container bought at walmart. Clean the drain plug and tighten. (Not to tight)

I use a "BIG" crescent wrench to unscrew the cap to the oil filter on top of the engine.

3. I carefully remove excess oil from inside the filter location with a clean paper towel.(optional)

4. Snap on a new FRAM oil filter from Walmart, and screw it in to the engine tight, but not to tight.

5. Next I pour in one 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 5W30 full synthetic motor oil. You guessed it, bought at Walmart.

6. Like I said at the beginning. This is one of the easiest cars I have ever changed oil. Your done, log the oil change in the back of your owners manual.
 
#21 ·
Filters are a LOT cheaper than ANY damage to your engine. Run synthetic oil longer than recommended if you wish but change filters and top off every 3000 miles or so. Anything more is foolish and CAN invalidate a warranty. Personally I've run Mobil1 up to 25,000 miles in a V8 Jeep with filter changes and the oil still looked new...

P.S. Why would anyone change the oil but leave the old filter in place? DOH!
 
#24 ·
it was something a friend told me he had done. This is the first car i've been able to run synthetic in, so this is all new to me.

Does anyone know how the k&n filters are? I've been using the delco ones since i bought the car.
 
#25 ·
K&N filter for the 2.4 works just fine.

Eliminating the factory airbox is even better and looks good but don't expect to gain much/any real power this way - the main benefit is that the engine will run and sound better. A true CAI is best of course but we all know that $s are not always easy to come by...
 
#27 ·
Got the first oil change for my Bu 08 2LT a week ago. It was at 3300 miles. The job was pretty easy comparing to the Sienna 04 and Civic 96 I also own and do oil change by myself. I did struggle a little bit with the oil cap but it is just the first time learning curve. Next time it will be a lot of easier. I was using a small adjustable wrench I bought from Walmart for 9 bucks. I use the ACDelco oil filter which I bought from the dealer. I did not see any chips or flakes in my oil filter. Not sure that is normal. One thing I don't like about the oil pan: it looks very cheap with some very small hair like cracks along the corner (where the bottom and the upside meet). It looks like a recycle part to me. At first I was scared when found them as I thought they might be defect! But I looked around to the other metal parts and I saw them too! I hope they are just cosmetic and won't develop to real cracks when the car gets old!
 
#31 ·
I tried changin the oil on my 2008 Malibu but couldn't find the right socket to fit the drain plug. Is it metric. I tried 1/2",5/8" and a few Metric. Seems like maybe it's stripped. The car only have 40K miles on it so It doesn't seem like the drain plug should be stripped.

Also if I purchase a Oil filter Special Socket, will I then need to buy a flex socket and an extension piece?

Thanks Mike
 
#33 ·
It was 15mm my 2.4L. I use a six-point socket to minimize the chance of rounding. The oil cap socket will need an 8" extension bar.
__________________
My 1st? '76 (2nd gen.) Camaro LT
'04 ION 2 QC (standby)
'10 Malibu LS


Thanks for the help. I'll give it another try this evening with the correct tools.
 
#37 ·
Actually there was a time when the recommended was filter every other time the oil was drained. Oils were not near as high quality and the interval may have been 2K miles.
When it comes to filters, you have to consider how fine it will filter and how much medium there is in the filter. If there is not a lot of medium, ie surface area, the filter could plug prematurely. And if it filters down to smaller than normal particles, the extra medium is necessary so you don't restrict oil flow. You never want to reach the point the bypass valve opens in the filter. I don't know about this engine, but many engines had a bypass pressure regulator as part of the oil pump system. Using a filter that does not allow enough flow, a thicker oil, or over-revving in combination with those could activate that circuit dumping oil back to pan and not providing enough flow to important places.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top