TROLL ^^^
I am going to respond to this once, just in case I am wrong, but after that you have to do your own research to figure out why King is wrong.
I have never, ever, seen the number 70% for stopping power. What else provides stopping power ... maybe the friction of the tires, maybe wind resistance. But in an emergency stop, 100% of "braking power" is done by the front and rear brake pads. It is true that the front brakes work harder than the rear brakes. This is the reason why the front rotors/calipers are bigger than the rear. Some newer cars (mostly german) use the ABS system to make the rear brakes work harder and the rear brake pads wear out quicker. This is to decrease dive and increase drive comfort. During an emergency stop or a harder than normal stop, all cars brake harder with the front brakes.
Disk brakes do not have a power advantage. In fact, large tractor trailers use drum brakes because they cannot get a large enough rotor under the wheel so they have really really wide drum brakes to get more surface area for friction between the pads and the drum.
Disk brakes have a heat advantage. Drum brakes have no real way to dissipate the heat, and this leads to brake fade and failure. Again, this is why tractor trailers are more likely to have brake failure going down steep inclines.
Some disk brakes do utilize cooling fins. On most passenger cars the front rotors have cooling fins and the rear rotors are solid disks of metal.
The rotor and where you purchase the rotor does not matter. It is a metal disk ... if its metal and it spins its perfectly fine for your application. I always buy the cheapest rotor I can find.
The difference between the expensive and the cheap is normally the coating placed on the rotor. This coating wears off the rotor surface after you apply the brakes the first time. The coating does prevent the rotor hat from rusting, but this is just cosmetic. There are no braking advantages at all from any of the coatings placed on higher priced rotors. The dealer rotors are over prices, just like everything else at the dealership.
I usually go to NAPA because I don't have to pay shipping on the high weight rotors and they have good prices and the rotor is a rotor, it has cooling fins, holes in the correct spots, it is the correct diameter ect. ect.
Brake pads can squeak, not the rotor. Cheaper pads are normally not chamfered, which could cause squeaking. Very expensive race pads will squeak because noise is not their concern. However, a properly bedded in race brake pad will not squeak.
I used to run Axxis ULT's on my street car, and unless I followed the proper bedding procedure, they would squeak. They would also squeak from a lot of normal city driving and then a good bed in procedure would fix that.
I hope that I have covered all the areas where King was wrong, but like I said, look everything up for yourself. Don't believe the internet forum people.