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06 Malibu Maxx Reduced Engine Power/Traction Control/Check Engine

84K views 41 replies 17 participants last post by  Lee D 
#1 ·
About 4 weeks ago, my wife was driving our 2006 Malibu Maxx LT (with about 73,000 miles) to work when she called me and told me the engine lost power and the traction control and check engine lights came on. She had stopped at a stop sign, and when she pressed the gas to go, the console beeped, Check Engine and Traction Control lights came on along with a console message, and the car barely accelerated. I told her to put on the hazards and pull off the road and keep the engine on. She was able to slowly move the car into the median, and I drove out to her where she had pulled over 3 miles from home. Sure enough, the TC OFF light, Check Engine light were both lit, and there was a message on the console "Engine Power Reduced".

I checked the TC button, pressed the gas and the engine revved right up no problem. I turned the car off, checked electrical connections under the hood (found no blatant issues), and restarted it. The TC light was clear but check engine light stayed on. After running a few minutes, I restarted the car again, this time all lights were clear and it ran just fine. At that point I did a search on the forums and could not find any definitive answer on what causes this.

This morning it did the exact same thing, the only difference being that instead of making it 3 miles down the road, she didn't even make it the 1/2 mile to get out of our neighborhood. After turning the car off and back on, the TC light cleared, and after 3 more restarts, the Check Engine light cleared. We recently had all the fluids checked/replaced, and have not had any other apparent issues (besides the power steering).

As the car is over 6 years old, it is no longer under warranty. And I am hesitant to take it to the local dealer (not the one I purchased the car from) because of the run-around I got when the power steering was making the notorious thumping sound and locked up. I need to know what the issue(s) causing this is/are so I can either fix this myself if within my abilities or take it to a mechanic and KNOW what is going on. We are on a very tight budget, and I cannot afford to be shelling out $$ to dealers and mechanics just to find the problem persists like it has with many people. My wife is pregnant and we have a 5 year old daughter she takes to school, so SAFETY is very important here, and I want this fixed properly and definitively, and as soon as possible. I don't want this to happen again! Thanks in advance!
 
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#2 ·
I need to know what the issue(s) causing this is/are so I can either fix this myself if within my abilities or take it to a mechanic and KNOW what is going on.

We are on a very tight budget, and I cannot afford to be shelling out $$ to dealers and mechanics just to find the problem persists like it has with many people.
You can't always have what you want. That's not meant to be a snotty remark or a personal insult, just a statement of fact. Read on please.

Modern cars have a fantastic diagnostic tool built in. It gives out codes that help point a "mechanic" toward the problem when one occurs. You should have found a lot of references to that in your searching.

Reading this (and other) online forums tends to give an impression about car repair that is MUCH worse than reality. Most problems are fixed on the first visit without hassle. The cost of that, like a lot of other things is higher than it used to be.

So.......at this point you need to seek out a parts store like Autozone that will scan the codes and recommend a fix. That might be the cheapest option but it might be the most expensive too......as they will not take back parts that don't fix the problem.

Next would be an independent shop. Their rates are usually lower than a GM shop and they often are just as skilled; sometimes more so.

Then there is a visit to a GM dealer for an $80-150 "diagnostic" session.

With either of the shop options, make sure up front.....maybe by hand writing it on the work order.......that no work is to be done without prior authorization by you AND THAT YOU WILL NOT PAY FOR PARTS THAT DO NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. This is a completely foreign concept for many shops.

Nobody can reasonably give you an idea of what the problem is without being there or at least seeing what the codes are. You are seeing a "limp home" mode resulting from what the computer thinks is a major engine problem.
It could be a ton of different things......from a defective sensor to a plugged air filter or a bad fuel pump or plugged CAT converter in the exhaust.......or a loose wire or vacuum hose somewhere.

If you go the "do it yourself" route (not recommended if you don't have any experience with car mechanics), there are a few guys here that can help you make a decision.........but they need to know what the codes are.

By now, there might be SO MANY codes set that the first thing you need to do is clear all of them and drive it until the problem happens again. If you do that, write down all of the codes first though.
 
#3 ·
My '11 V6 did the same thing last year. It was on a day when it went from the 90's and very humid to the 70's and raining buckets in less than 1/2 hour. When I left to go home the TC Off was lit, Check Engine was lit, and "Reduced Power" message was showing. It ran like it had 3 cylinders or less. By the time I got home the reduced power was corrected, but TC and CEL were lit. Next morning all was well. Took it to dealer - no problem found.

I figured the humidity condensed on some connection that was susceptible to fretting corrosion and pushed it over the edge. Not sure, but it has never done it since. I hope it doesn't again!

You might try unplugging and plugging the BCM or other computer module to see if your issue stops. It's free and fast and can't hurt.
 
#4 ·
Zach - I'll toss a bit more in here.

Codes are nice, although you can't just jump at one and fix what it says, since the code says what the computer thinks is wrong, but it may be a "water in the intake" code*.

I'd recommend something like a decent Bluetooth or WiFi OBDII adapter, and a program such as Torque (for Android devices), and not only read the codes, but when it acts up, see what the computer THINKS is going on (TPS at 100% when throttle closed, instead of 0? ECT at 1,000F instead of the more accurate 55F outside temp? What has the computer so bumfuzzled it's limping?) It can also let you read your codes. This is almost as good a diagnostic as actually listening to the car, eyeballing the car, and thinking about how it works vis how it's not working.

RwP

*Water in the intake? OK - here's the joke. Think "Mad Men", 60's ad agency types. Think trophy wife, with "enhanced secondary sexual characteristics" and blonde hair. Guy comes home one day, and his trophy wife is sitting in the living room, in a robe with her hair in a towel, doing her nails. Guy asks, "That's not common. What's up?" The wife says, "I think there's water in the carburator of the Jag." He looks at here, then says, "Honey, I really do love you dearly, but I didn't marry you for your brains or your mechanical knowledge. What makes you think the Jag even HAS a carburator, much less water in it?" She replies, "Well, they sell carburator cleaner at the gas station, and you can't clean it if it doesn't have it, right? Besides, it's at the bottom of the pool."

The application is that "water in the carb" or "water in the intake" isn't the best way to describe what's wrong with the Jag, although it's actually very accurate.
 
#5 ·
I used to think I had water on the brain, but that would presume I had a brain, or that I could think! ;)
 
#6 · (Edited)
One thought I didn't see mentioned...How is your battery??? And even new batteries can get bad

I know as they get weaker and older the play havoc with the whole system. Have AZ (or whomever) test the battery and alternator. They usually do it for free as well. Let us know what you find. My '06 Mazz is at 121,XXXX without anything major yet (but I'm tempting fate even mentioning that it is doing ok.).
 
#7 ·
Thanks to those of you who responded without insulting my intelligence... : )

I know enough about cars to get codes read when the CE light comes on. I probably should have mentioned that there were no codes, but this is often the case with other people who have these same symptoms. Which is why I posted this in the first place. If codes were present, I would have some idea what to look at. Since I don't, I am asking others who have had this issue what they have found out. I will definitely have the battery checked asap. I am also interested in the moisture idea in connections/electronics, etc. I will look into that as well and check my connections thoroughly. And I will look into a BT OBDII adapter, my wife has an android phone, so that will be interesting. That way I/she can have real-time info when it happens again.

I personally drive a 1990 300zx. I have replaced fuel injectors and intake manifolds and such, and the nice thing about the Z is it has a built-in code system. When my injector went bad and I lost power, I could read the code myself without special equipment to determine that the left O2 sensor was reading lean. This led to me coil-pack testing all 3 left side cylinders to determine which injector had failed. The Malibu, however is much more electronically intensive and I can't troubleshoot myself. Of course it's no big secret that auto manufacturers do this on purpose, but it is rather frustrating.

I will try out the 3 ideas above: Battery, connections, and OBDII adapter and update soon.

Thanks again!
 
#8 ·
Thanks to those of you who responded without insulting my intelligence... : )

I know enough about cars to get codes read when the CE light comes on
Thanks for being understanding.
It's often hard to know where to start.......especially when your experience level is not spelled out in the first post. :)

I find it REALLY strange that no codes were set. The system thought it saw a major fault. Maybe one of those hidden ones that only the priveleged can see. ;)
Or the central computer responsible for monitoring all the fault inputs.

We have some experienced mechanics on here. Now armed with a little more info. maybe they can shed some light on your situation.
 
#9 ·
I had the same type of car: 2006 Chevy Malibu Mxx LT, 40000 miles; the same problem as yours,actually even worse than yours. In addition to the power loss during driving, I also had crank but wont start, grinding noise under the engine and steering whining noise.

At the beginning, when the car stall off on the street as you described, i thought it might be related to grinding noise. Recently, I had the problem of crank but won't start as well as lose power during driving. I did the following check based on googled information:

1. check the relay of fuel pump (Maxx has a relay box in the trunk). Previouly that box is flooded. I heard the clicking sound with key on, the relay looks fine. THe fuse is also OK
2. Listen to the sound of fuel pump with key on, unfortunately no sound. Which lead me to think the fuel pump is down
3. Spray the starting fluid to the air intake. it seems the engine start to work, but still lose. Howeve, better than without spraying starting fluid.
4. with key on, press the needle inside the schrader vale on the fuel delievery rail, no gas come out,which means no fuel pressure. This also lead me to the bad fuel pump
5. use a spare spark plug to check the coil, it sparks. NO problem for starter and electrical disribution

I don't know how to check the compression pressure.

I heard a lot of people talking about BCM, what is that BCM, where can I find it?

Since the water leaked into the trunk before, the electrical box was flooded. At that time, battery was drained. After that happend, I had the issue of power off during driving, crank but wont start. In addition, the instrumental cluster panel and one of the tail light are always off. I still think power off issue might be related to some electrical problem. Any clue is appreciated.

Thanks
 
#10 ·
I think you have a big clue.

I'd start with that trunk mounted fuse block and replace it, or at least go through all the connectors and verify that it's not corroded.

After that, I'd check the fuel pump's wiring at the fuel pump to see if it has 12V.

Don't know about that grinding sound.

The steering whining - you mean the hydraulic whine a low power steering pump gets? But it's not low? Sounds like air in the system there.

RwP
 
#11 ·
thank you for reply.

I want to check the voltage of fuel pump. Unfortunately, I did not know where I should start. Different thread in this forum give different suggestion. I just wonder if you could give some clue. I will check the relay, and I also want to check the voltage directly on the pump.

Power steel noise. When I make a turn, I heard the noise. Lot of people mentioned that.
 
#13 ·
Thanks again.

I changed the relay for the fuel pump in the rear fuse block, and I can start the car.:) The flooding damaged that relay. The weird thing is that it did not lose its function immediately but slowly.

However I still have the same problem as Zack mentioned: During driving, the engine miss.

When I pressed the gas pedal, either in idle or in D shift, I can clearly hear the grinding noise under the engine, just like metal is ground on the sand wheel. usually when the weather is hot, after a strong grinding noise, engine miss. Except showing "TC control" on the instrument panel, I also saw "engine lower power" or "engine reduced power" on the information panel. When I start again, it is shown engine disabled. After 1 minutes, I can start the car.

I really think that grinding noise might indicate sth wrong in timing chain or knock sensor, any ideas?


I use typical code reader to obtain some code, but get nothing. Can i use other advanced reader to get some info why the car dies during driving.?
 
#16 ·
thanks.

finally I brought my car to one local shop. Since I can't see the code, they should. They got the P0601, P0606 and U0107. It turned out the PCM is down. THe shop is nice. They told me the PCM is under 8/80 warranty. I have to send the car to the dealer. Hopefully this is the root cause. I hope Zack also should do it
 
#17 ·
I still need the help.

When I give the dealer of the report from one shop. They need to do the dignothesis. I paid $85 for that. If it is PCM, they will charge the PCM maker.
Today I received the call from the Chevy dealer. They think they need to clean my throttle valve at first, because it is not clean, and that could also cause the trouble. I told them, there are three codes: P0601, P0606 and U0107. The first two is definitely related to PCM malfunction, and the third also related to PCM and I did not see any power reduction before engine shut down by itself. But they insisted that they had to do it. Only they did it, they will help to get the warranty. Even it is not related to throttle valve, I still need to pay $200+ 85. I can take the car back, and ask other shop do this, but I have to pay current $85, and need pay another $85 to continue the diagnothesis.

Then I asked them how could you confirm it is PCM malfuction, they said they did not know, they had to do all kinds of test. Now it seems I will be in a trap, they can do what kind of test they think.
 
#19 · (Edited)
They think they need to clean my throttle valve at first, because it is not clean, and that could also cause the trouble. I told them, there are three codes: P0601, P0606 and U0107. The first two is definitely related to PCM malfunction, and the third also related to PCM and I did not see any power reduction before engine shut down by itself. But they insisted that they had to do it. Only they did it, they will help to get the warranty. Even it is not related to throttle valve, I still need to pay $200+ 85. I can take the car back, and ask other shop do this, but I have to pay current $85, and need pay another $85 to continue the diagnothesis.

Then I asked them how could you confirm it is PCM malfuction, they said they did not know, they had to do all kinds of test.
Now it seems I will be in a trap, they can do what kind of test they think.
This is the kind of stuff that gives guys in my profession a bad name. There's no need for it, it's just a money making crock of s**t. P0601 is about as cut and dried as it gets. Code is set, it needs a PCM. Always a good idea to verify the integrity of the powers and grounds supplied to the PCM, but it's all but guaranteed the PCM is bad. There is no further testing to do past power and ground verification. The P0606 and the U0107 aren't quite as easy but with the P0601 set, I'd fix what you know is bad first and reevaluate the concern.

With the P0606 only, it would be the same check power and ground to the PCM, if all checks okay, replace the PCM. The U0107 should be addressed with replacing the PCM in your case but there's a chance there are other issues as well so I'd say drive it and get back to me if there are more issues, if I were working on it. The U0107 can be set if the battery voltage is too low, marginal battery, corroded terminal somewhere, loose ground somewhere, stuff like that. The PCM is detecting a fault with the TAC system (throttle actuator system). It can cause the car not to start.

Since you said this car was flooded at some point in the past, it's very possible that corrosion has set in on a connector somewhere and it may be something to consider if the problems persist after the new PCM is installed. As for charging two diagnostic fees, it's wrong, period. I get advising you about the first 85 dollar fee. If the problem is not covered under the 8yr/80K warranty, you should have to pay the diagnostic fee. You don't work for free, nor do I. BUT, if the problem IS covered under the 8/80 warranty as it seems this would be, then there should be no diagnostic fee at all since it is a covered repair. Diagnostic time is paid by GM.

The throttle body cleaning is a good service, should be done regularly as a preventive maintenance. Is it going to fix your issue? Probably not. So in reality, they aren't being completely dishonest but are at the same time running your bill way up and frankly ripping you off. I'm not sure I understand what you said about them helping you get warranty coverage. They had to clean the throttle body before they would help? No, no, no. Coverage is valid for 8 years or 80,000 miles and is not contingent upon any service being done aside from properly diagnosing the vehicle. The warranty PCM replacement must be done by a GM dealer, an outside shop can't get paid to do it by GM.

You're in a lousy situation, I'd talk to the service manager about how you are being charged and get it in writing if possible. I'm all but absolutely sure there is no way you can be charged additional fees for this kind of repair. If the dealer insists on charging you, call Chevrolet Customer Assistance first, before the work is authorized, and talk to them. Don't know what else to tell you. It's a shame that this knid of nonsense goes on. There is more than adequate honest money to be made in this business, this ripping people off is just wrong, Society just losing it's morals.
 
#18 ·
I have to finish this post:

My question is how a professional techs can make a decision that engine stall is caused by PCM. If it really need a diagothesis, it is fine. However, I can't pay all kinds of test they want to run even they are wrong.

If I want to repair PCM by myself, how much I should pay. I am in MD.
 
#20 ·
thank you for your help.

I already replaced all of the relays and fuse in the trunk. I still had the same problem.

Finally, the dealer told me that they still found the code even after they cleaned the throttle valve and the injector. They repalced the PCM. The good thing is no engine stalling. It is confirmed the PCM is wrong.

However my nightmire did not end. I found the idling become very rough, and I can see the tachmeter needle jump from 680 to 700 rpm. At the beginning, I thought maybe there is vaccume leaking since there seems to be a leaking sound around throttle valve. The dealer checked again, and said everything is OK, and the engine should be like that. I am a engineer. Since there is no any code, I can't say anything. Today I used my code reader to check my car. It did not have any code. However, the code reader shows that this car is NOT ready for emission test, then I am surprised. A 6 years old car with less than 40000 can't pass the emission test after throttle valve and injector cleaning. More information from the reader:

Catalyst: incomplete
EGR system: incomplete
EVAP system: incomplete
Oxygen sensor: incomplete
secondary air system: incomplete

I used the code reader to test my another car, it did not show above information. It means my code reader is good.

I called the dealer again. They told me I need to turn on and off the key more times to get the computer work. I already drived for more than 20 miles, and on/off more than 6 times. I hope their saying is right, otherwise there will be another argument.

Thank you for your professional explanation on these codes and compassion. I just wonder if the dealer's suggestion is right?

In addition, I have to take action on the dealer.
 
#21 ·
When the PCM was replaced, all monitors were reset. They would also be reset after disconnecting the battery or reprogramming the PCM. That's how it is. There is a procedure, certain operating conditions for specified periods of time, that if done correctly will usually get you ready for an emission test in one trip. Usually won't get all the monitors but most programs I know of allow one monitor to not be set. Give it a few days and see how many are set.
 
#22 ·
thank you for your suggestion. I found the standard profile for GM's car. Hopefully other people can use it. Now all of the system are complete, and the coder reader shows that my car is ready for emission test. However, the EVAP is still not completed, and car still has large vibration during idling. Does the the EVAP will affect the idling?

As followed, please find GM's standard profile for PCM activation:

•Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup.
Do not leave the key in prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

•Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire, and - if closed loop is achieved- Fuel Trim.

•Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

•Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

•Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

•Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

•Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

•Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears
 
#24 ·
I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu LT, and I too have the same problems with my car. I called GM and and explained the same to them and asked why a Recall has not been issued on the throttle body problem. They too told me to take my Malibu to and authorized GM dealership for a diagnostic. I did call not only the GM dealership where I purchase my Malibu, but also over a dozen other dealerships as well as as many auto garages, to inquire about the throttle body, reduced engine power, traction and engine light problems. (The diagnostic that I did have done did register several codes including the throttle body).

All of the above stated that this is a common complaint and problem with GM's cars including the Malibu, Maxx, Impala and so on. They also stated that the model years span a wide range including 2004 through 2012.

What's it going to take for GM to issue a Recall? This is not only an expensive repair, but potentially a serious injury and/or death situation waiting to happen, especially driving in congested traffic as I, and I'm sure many GM owners do, going back and forth to work, shopping, as well as many other daily activities.

Any serious thoughts on this? :confused:
 
#25 ·
Hi MrMarv,
By any chance was a Service Request opened for you when you contacted GM Customer Service? I can look up the details on your case for you. Please PM me the info, or your contact information and I can look into this for you.

Also, have you taken your vehicle in to the dealer for an official diagnosis? The service technicians are the best equipped to look at the issue for more information as I cannot give any diagnostic information on your specific vehicle issues.

For now, I will go ahead and document your concerns. I am always happy to assist when possible.

Thank you,
Sara
Chevrolet Customer Service
 
#26 ·
I (original poster) had this issue corrected a few months ago, but completely forgot about this thread until I received a thread update email, so I decided to post what happened.

I purchased the 06 Malibu Maxx from Smith Chevrolet in Hammond, IN in April 2010 and it had about 42,000 miles. This is the 4th GM my wife and I have owned, and we have had nothing but issues with all of them. Here are some examples:

94 Olds Cutlass Ciera: failed window motors (all of them, one by one) tranny issues, brake issues...

97 Pontiac Sunfire (most reliable of our GM's): Electrical issues...

2000 Buick LeSabre (worst vehicle I have ever owned): all 4 wheel hubs ($250 each to do it myself) failed, all 4 window motors failed (another $200 each), intake manifold (plastic) EXPLODED due to faulty throttle body/TPS (before recall, and GM didn't do a darn thing before or after to help a low-income Sailor, me, who had to do the repair out of pocket at some $500 for parts in the naval base parking lot through the middle of the night), the engine started making this awful squealing noise that turned out to be a bad bearing in the belt tensioner, the ceiling fabric completely fell off, and all of this and more was WELL BEFORE the car hit 10 years and 100,000 miles.

Now our 06 Malibu: at under 90,000 miles, window motors are starting to go (see a trend?), power steering failed with under 75,000 miles and the dealer wanted some $700 to fix it (my wife was DRIVING and the wheel would NOT turn) and that was something I could not do with my limited set of tools, but could not afford so we paid some $80 to have it "temporarily greased" which has been working fine for over a year, and of course, this random engine power reducing failure. Dealer here in Lafayette where we now live wanted to charge some $125 to trouble shoot, but I said no and took it to autozone to read the codes. All the codes were TPS related, but of course you cannot just get a TPS anymore for $30 or so. Nope, they have manufactured it in a SEALED throttle body assembly, much like the sealed wheel hub bearings. Way to rip us off, instead of a new $30 sensor, I bought a used throttle body off eBay for $75 because I could not afford a new one at over $300. Swapped them out and it is running ok.

I took the old throttle body apart... Feel/oil INSIDE the TPS and motor. The rubber gasket was not the right fit for this throttle body. Thankfully the used part had a properly fitting gasket.

Wheel hubs, window motors and throttle bodies.... I am a senior engineering student at purdue university with six years of US Navy service as a mechanic. I know how things work, how things are engineered, designed, manufactured, assembled and built. And I can tell you from my knowledge and experiences that GM chronically does a poor job at all of these.

I have a 1990 (made in 1989) Nissan 300zx 2+2 with almost 90,000 miles and the window motors are still strong, the wheel bearings are in great shape, and the cable/mechanical dual throttle bodies have never failed. The steering works even when the PS pump wore out, and the aluminum intake manifold has never ruptured, and even when a fuel injector wore out, the engine never shut itself down in "safety mode" on the interstate. Here is the thing: how come my almost 25 year old FOREIGN SPORTS CAR that I bought for $4,000 is more reliable and SAFER for me, my wife and 2 kids than my modern "family-oriented" American-engineered sedan which cost me 4 times as much?

Chevy, I have met with hiring agents at the job fairs here on campus. I know what your requirements are to hire engineers. And the overwhelming majority of the products by GM have issue after issue... Maybe you need some new engineers. Keep this in mind: there are only a handful of schools that offer as stringent and exceptional of an engineering program as Purdue. When you hire an IU or Northwestern grad with a 3.6 GPA over a Purdue grad with a 2.9, you have purchased the engineer lesser quality skills and training. This results in poor products which results in poor business. Look at your sales, look at your ratings, look at your reviews, look at your finances and look at your bailouts...

My family will trade this Malibu in for a Kia, Nissan, Honda or Subaru. And we will never willingly purchase another GM vehicle again. Poor products and even worse customer service.... You have permanently lost a previously loyal customer.
 
#27 ·
Zach,
Sorry it has all gone so poorly for you, and that is a well-written post. I feel that with your experiences you've reached a reasonable conclusion about your future car-buying decision metrics.

And thank you for returning to let us know how it turned out. Again, sorry it wasn't better. No one in their right mind wishes stuff like this on anyone.
 
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