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2008 LS Body Control Module Problem & Location

55K views 19 replies 7 participants last post by  cpmman 
#1 ·
I ran my battery dead last week (left the key on due to opening sun roof while parked) and ran the battery dead. Charged for 3 hours with a professional charger and it started fine.
BUT.......

Now the key fob does not work and the tire presure indicator in the DIC does not work. This means the car will not accept any RF signals as I read the tire pressure indicators work off of RF signals

One dealer said to reprogam something it for $40.00. Another dealer said no way it should work after the charge and said it sounds like the BCM was spiked and is gone.

I can replace it myself if I can find it...

Can anyone help out with this problem??

Thanks,
 
#4 ·
Have you tried disconnecting the battery for about 15 minutes, then reconnecting and then retrying the fobs? Also scroll through the DIC and check to see if there is a feature that will let you program the remotes to the car. I could have sworn I saw something like that last time I was messin around with it.
 
#5 ·
The TPMS can be owner reprogramed, the key fobs cannot.

Here's the process to reprogram the TPMS:

TPMS Sensor Matching Process

Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the vehicle’s tires, the identification codes need to be matched to the new tire/wheel location. The sensors are matched, to the tire/wheel locations, in the following order: driver side front tire, passenger side front tire, passenger side rear tire, and driver side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool. See your dealer/retailer for service. The TPMS sensors can also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure. When increasing the tire’s pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall. To decrease the tire’s air-pressure use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key. You have two minutes to match each tire and wheel position. If it takes longer than two minutes to match any tire and wheel position, the matching process stops and you need to start over.

The TPMS matching process is outlined below:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the
engine off.
3. Press and hold the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter’s LOCK and UNLOCK buttons, at the same time, for about five seconds to start the TPMS learn mode. The horn sounds twice indicating the TPMS receiver is ready and in learn mode.
4. Start with the driver side front tire. The driver side front turn signal also comes on to indicate that corner’s sensor is ready to be learned.
5. Remove the valve cap from the tire’s valve stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for about eight seconds. The horn chirp, can take up to 30 seconds to sound. It chirps one time and then all the turn signals flash one time to confirm the sensor identification code has been matched to the tire/wheel position.
6. The passenger side front turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side front tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5.
7. The passenger side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5.
8. The driver side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5.
9. After hearing the single horn chirp for the driver side rear tire, two additional horn chirps sound to indicate the tire learning process is done. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF. If no tires are learned after entering the TPMS learn mode, or if communication with the receiver stops, or if the time limit has expired, turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF and start over beginning with Step 2.
10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label.
11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.
 
#6 ·
I tried disconnecting battery for about 8-10 minutes..not luck..maybe the extra time will help??

Some are telling me how to reprogram the tire pressures sensors but my question now is will that make the key fob work??? Seems odd the key fob will come to life once the tire pressure sensors are set..

Whatever receives the RF signal in the car seems to be gone..

One dealer said the Body Control Module was "spiked" during charging and killed the BCM but I tend to doubt it since it was a normal charge however willing to try and replace the BCM if that is where the RF signal is receiced.

Thanks....
 
#7 ·
Did you notice if you left the key in the ACC or ON position when it was charging, or did you turn it on while it was charging to see if it was ready to run? If so then that could have allowed a spike through to the BCM. If not, then charging with a battery charger shouldn't have hurt anything, but I don't have the device here so I'm guessing.

Check your fuses as well. Pull each one if you can't test it in place. Some of them will be live only with the key in ACC or ON, so pulling each one and testing with an ohm meter or continuity tester will be the best way to tell. Don't rely on a visual inspection as a fuse can look good but be bad. There are 3 fuse boxes: 1 under the battery cover, 1 at the BCM under the right front console, 1 in trunk behind carpet flap on left wheel well.

For future reference, disconnect one of the battery cables if you ever need to charge the battery. Battery chargers rarely have any kind of serious smoothing circuitry, since the battery serves that function. They simply rectify the AC into pulsed DC and the battery smoothes out the pulses the same way a capacitor would. (A capacitor is like a mini battery.) If there was any kind of spike while charging, or if you had it turned on when you hooked it up, then the spike had to go somewhere.
 
#9 ·
Thats kinda odd since I dont believe the RF signals for the key fobs and TPMS are received in the same place. The receiver for the keyless entry is located on the rear package shelf between the speakers. I'll have to do some poking around the factory service manuals to see where the TPMS signal is received.
 
#10 ·
Just looked it up. The Remote Control Door Lock Reciever (RCDLR) receives RF signals from both the key FOBs and the TPMS.

I'd take DrivenDaily's advise and start checking fuses. Or at least see if that receiver can be re-synced to the BCM.
 
#11 ·
Does your car have XM radio? If so, is it working? How about your Homelink buttons? If you have them and it's programmed, does it work? Because those two things, plus the receiver for the key fobs and TPMS all work off the same fuse. Its on the fuse panel inside the trunk. It would be fuse #16, 7.5amp fuse labeled RKE/XM.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I have XM and BT. XM subscription has expired but that's not an issue for any other components. The radio works fine, as does the BT. I have the HomeLink buttons but they're not programmed.

I've had my battery go dead three times now. Once I was standing with the door open talking to a buddy and it turned into a lonnnnnnggggg one. Two other times I was working on mods and had the radio going. Doesn't take long for all that electronic equipment to snuff out a battery! Got a jump each time and had no issues. I've also jumped at least three separate vehicles (Lincoln SUV, Nissan, Saturn) with no ill consequences.

I think you're onto something, though!

cpmman, head for the tail (pun) and check those fuses first. I think LowSaturn has some good gut feelings here.
 
#14 ·
I did pull the 7.5 fuse in the trunk last weekend and it appeaed good however I did not test it...yet.

On travel and will resume chasing the problem this weekend...Hope it starts when I get back to the airport parking garage!!

Thanks for all the help so far.

If the fuse tests good where do I try next??
 
#15 ·
Check out the schematic by following this link:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4191695/08_chevy_malibu_complete.pdf

On the BCMs, if the schematic shows an X1, X2, or X3, then look on the BCM for a J1, 2, 3 and that will be the correct connector, then look for the pin number or wire color in that loom.

Also, not that it's likely, but make sure the connectors are firmly and fully engaged into the BCM. They have a locking snap device that should make it impossible to not be secure, but . . . . .
 
#16 ·
There is a bulletin out on your problem. The dealer that said you need to reprogram the RCLDR is probably right.

#08-03-16-001B: Key Fobs Inoperative, TPM System Not Reading Correctly - Dashes on Al Four Tire Readings, DTCs C0775, C0569, B3105 Set, Unable to Program TPM Sensors (Reprogram RCDLR) - (Jul 31, 2008)


Subject: Key Fobs Inoperative, TPM System Not Reading Correctly - Dashes On All Four Tire Readings, DTCs C0775, C0569, B3105 Set, Unable to Program TPM Sensors (Reprogram RCDLR)


Models: 2008 Chevrolet Cobalt, HHR, Malibu

2008 Pontiac G5, G6, Solstice

2008 Saturn AURA, SKY




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to update the Important statement to reflect the new direction to no longer contact TCSC. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-03-16-001A (Section 03 - Suspension).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition
Some customers may comment that the key fobs are inoperative or that the TPM system is showing dashes as the reading for all four tires.

Technicians may find DTCs C0775, C0569 and B3105 set simultaneously in the RCDLR module.

In addition, the technicians may find Tire Pressure Monitoring sensors are unable to be programmed to the vehicle by adding or releasing pressure to the tire while the vehicles in the TPM learn mode.

Cause
These conditions may be caused by the following:

• The RCDLR may lose its transmitter and tire pressure monitoring data from its memory if a low voltage condition occurs on the vehicle.

• The ability for TPM learning by adding or releasing pressure to the tire has been disabled in the RCDLR.

Correction
Reprogram the RCDLR with an updated software calibration to address both issues listed above. This new service calibration is available on TIS2WEB using Service Programming System (SPS). As always, make sure your Tech 2® is updated with the latest software.

Important: If the Tech 2® could not establish communication with the RCDLR AND the programming event ended with error, attempt to reprogram in Service Programming System (SPS) by selecting "Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (TSB 08-03-16-001) with E4399 error -- Pass Thru Only".

Once the RCDLR module has been reflashed with the latest software and calibrations, the following may also be necessary:

• Relearn all keyless entry transmitters.

• Reconfigure the tire pressure placards and the tire type.

• Relearn the tire pressure sensors.

Refer to SI for the procedures to relearn transmitters, placard and tire type configuration and tire pressure sensor learn.

Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

R4481
Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR), Reprogram with SPS
Use Published Labor Operation Time

Add:
Diagnosis Time
0.0-0.3 hr


Bill
 
#17 ·
When we all need to Replace the battery, Make sure to use a "Memory Saver" to prevent this. It works by supplying just enough power to keep the memory alive.

I do find it interesting that the Factory didnt experience this problem during assembly.
 
#18 ·
Okay...all fixed..$49.00 to reprogram the fobs and tire pressure indicator...BUT ..

The dealer said my intermediate steering shaft is bad AND the left front strut is leaking.

I am failry good mechanic and have access to a lift. Are these hard to do and what is the cost for for a strut and steering shaft?

Thanks for all the replies....
 
#19 ·
Well good thing you finally got it fixed, and yikes! So they found those issues while fixin the other ha....... Your no longer under warranty? No clue on the steering shaft but the strut is fairly cheaper.
 
#20 ·
No warranty on the car since it has 47K miles on it. I will do the front strut soon...

The funny part here is the car passed NH state inspection earlier in the day (before it went to the dealer) and the inspction station did not say anything about either of those issues and the car passed without any comments from them...

Clearly the dealer is trying to generate business since times are tough..

Thanks
 
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