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I pulled the trigger on my Homelink install

37K views 71 replies 23 participants last post by  Youngs98 
#1 ·
So after over a year off looking for answers on how to install the home link on my 2011 bu I finally found the overhead part on Ebay and decided to give it a shot. So what I thought was going to be a big pain in the but was really easy. Here are a few pics of my new Home link install.

Pic 1 my old overhead on the left and my new one on the right

Pic 2 where i tapped on for power the Black wire for ground and the orange wire for my constant hot found at the plug for the map lights.

Pic 3 installed and working!!
 

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#5 ·
#4 ·
Looks like you did a great job.
We have it from the factory in our 2013 but it is useless to us at this time. Do you have any ideas on how to use it to turn on the back porch light at least?
 
#6 ·
Pic 2 where i tapped on for power the Black wire for ground and the orange wire for my constant hot found at the plug for the map lights.
This is good news. I have been wanting to do this as well, but was concerned where to get power. The orange wire you tapped for the map lights is a spot I considered. However, I am not confident it is hot 100% of the time. It is labeled "Courtesy Lamp Supply Voltage" in the schematics. It comes from the BCM, pin A3, and I believe is actually involved in the battery save/light control function. I think it can be turned off by the BCM automatically if a map light is left on.

My worry in using it was that possibly the BCM would see it as a constant load (no clue how much current it draws, but can't be much since in it's as designed config, it gets an always hot power supply from the battery -- see schematic figure 54, pin D6 of Left Rear Wheel Fuse Panel) and switch off the courtesy power after some number of minutes after the car is off.

Have you experienced any problem with it not being functional after some period of time?

Any of the GM tech's see any "issues" tapping the Courtesy Lamp Power for this mod?
 
#7 · (Edited)
I can see you concern here I spent a ton of time in my car with the doors closed with my voltage meter connected and did not have any problems with where i tapped in for power. Even if the BCM did shut the power down for some reason you will more then likely have to open the door before using the opener so the power will be restored before you press and of the buttons.

I forgot to add I have not had any problems with the function of my Homelink.
 
#18 ·
I got this installed myself. Got console off e-Bay with opener for $70. Ordered the Standard Motor Products S-715 pig tail from rock auto.com for $9. Used the same wiring scheme as Johndoe0336, tapping Orange power line and black ground for map lights. Only caution is that the pig tail I used had orange wire on the GND pin side and black wire on the power pin side of the garage door opener connector, so the connection was a bit strange with the orange on the pig tail to the black on the car harness, and vice versa. It does work, and I did conclude there is no back light on the buttons. Thanks for posting your pics and experience up, it motivated me to get it done!!!
 
#22 ·
Can someone tell me on the GDO assembly which side the Positive wire is on? Is the Neg. terminal closest to the map lights (windshield) and the positive terminal facing the cabin (rear window). I want to make sure my wiring harness is the same as yours. I believe I will have to go black wire on s-715 pigtail to orange wire maplight harness and red wire on s-715 pigtail to black wire on maplight harness. Just want to confirm i'm thinking correctly.
 
#23 ·
Black is ground, orange is B+ that is controlled by the BCM's battery monitor, which turns it off after a period of time (~10 mins.) after key-off.

You may also see purple and/or gray wires. The gray carries the ground signal to the dome lamps to turn them on when the door opens or the dimmer is turned fully clockwise. Purple interconnects one dome to the other IF you have a separate On/Off/Door switch, which mine does not.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Thanks driven, I guess I should have been a bit more clear. On the connector for the garage door opener, which side does positive come off of? I believe the pigtail I have when it is plugged in has the red wire neg and the black wire positive. So I would have to wire it black on GDO to orange on vehicle harness and red on GDO to black on vehicle harness. I want to try and confirm my suspicion.
 
#25 ·
My '09 had the opener but my '11 doesn't. I don't have the connector to look at. I provided info from the schematic drawings.
 
#26 ·
Thanks Driven,
Here is the Wiring diag from what I can tell from an '10 garadge door opener factory connector:



here is a pic of my GDO with the S-715 Pigtail connected:



So Judging by the pic, I think the red wire on the pigtail is actually neg on the opener. I will confirm it when I pull the current maplight down and post it here for future ref.
 
#27 ·
Nope, don't do it! Pull the plug off and examine it for numbers molded into it. You should see the same numbers as in the drawing. Also, look at the drawing and the plug and arrange it in the same manner as the drawing.

If I were a betting man I'd wager the black is ground. However, someone at the point of assembly could have put the right wire in the wrong opening.
 
#28 ·
The harness connector I got isn't the GM p/n. I talked to GM and you can't purchase just the Garage door connector you have to get the ENTIRE roof harness to get the connector. The connector I got was Standard Motor Parts S-715 just like the one Michaelj3 had earlier in the thread. He is the one that gave a heads up the pigtail might in fact be backwards to the way GM wires are in the factory. That is what i'm trying to decide before I splice it into the factory harness. If I look at the diagram from GM and the wires THEY use for + and - then I look at the S-715 pigtail I purchased I think the S-715 pigtail has the red and black wire reversed per GM's diagram.




The way i'm looking at it, this has to be flipped upside down and turned 180 to match the GM diagram. If that is the case I "Think" but I may have confused myself, On the GM Harness the Black wire would be facing the rear of the vehicle. Where on the S-715 Pigtail it is red.
 
#29 ·
The device determines what is hot and ground. If the harness that came with it should be wired for it, not for the GM car. In that case they should use black for ground and the other color for hot. Use your best discretion.
 
#30 ·
I believe that is where the confusion is. The garage door opener is a gm part. Gm will not sell the pigtail but standard motor parts has a pre wired pigtail for homelink / Lear openers. The gm garage door opener and the pigtail came from two different sources thus why the confusion and mis matched info. I may go test drive a 2010 with the GDO and pull down the map lights to confirm!
 
#32 · (Edited)
Thought I would keep this thread going. Just purchased the complete map console assembly with garage door opener(Lear car2U) from an online GM parts supplier (GMPartsShop.com) for only $73.00(includes shipping).

The part is titanium in color and the part number is GM 25871867. It included everything-the 3 button Lear opener, the cover, microphone and harness, ambient lights and harness, map light lenses and the ring that holds up the unit in the roof. Only other part needed is the S-715 pigtail (bought for $9.00 AutoRock).

Tested the unit to see if it worked, the previous posts are correct for the pigtail, black is power and red is ground. I programmed per the instructions on learcar2u.com and it worked.

Installed the unit today. Took some time to find a constant power source. Found one in a group of three wires(purple,orange and black). Used the orange wire as power(+) and the black wire as negative(-). Works great and looks factory.

Thanks CMF for all the the info for this install.
 
#40 ·
It finally warmed up enough to get outside and make one more mod: get the backlight working.

I soldered a wire on the center card edge connector, ran it out of the housing and tapped the red wire in the ambient lights on the overhead console. This allows removal by unplugging as before. Then I plugged everything back together and now have backlit garage door opener buttons.

So, the only question left is why GM never planned the wiring for the backlight on the original included GDO? The schematics from the previous model and the comments from those with the originally equipped GDO indicate the backlight was never wired....I suppose it maybe saved a small amount of cash in the wiring harness for the GDO. Evidently cost savings was a key design element for this vehicle...not surprising I suppose.

Thanks again bu-n-blk for confirming the back lights were there. I'm happy now!
 
#41 ·
I need some quick help. For my 2009LT, i bought the GM unit with the opener and the SMP pigtail S715. I connected the orange wire of the pigtail to a black wire that connects to one of the map light switches and connected the black wire of the pigtail to the red wire running through the area.

Thought i had it working fine, but my door was open! Turns out it only works with door open or when i use the dash switch to turn on the map lights.

Obviously picked a wrong wire. See pic

Whats's my next move? Which wire is wrong, or is it both?
 

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#42 ·
Whats's my next move? Which wire is wrong, or is it both?
You need to find the harness in the car roof with the orange and black wire. See previous in this thread' and the schematics. Net, the power and ground wire you are looking for is in the roof of the car, not on the map light/dome light plate. Then, as crazy as it seems, you hook the black wire on the 715 pigtail to the orange wire in the roof, and the red wife on the pigtail to the black wire in the roof.
 
#45 ·
So I just did the installation. In order to get the lights to come on, I went what's probably a risky way because of the possibility of an arch or something. I took a 14 Ga wire, removed some shielding and jammed into the center of the connector with a little dielectric grease and then spliced it into the ambient lighting as suggested by another poster. All works well except the garage door responds when the car is inside and when outside with the garage door open. But if the car is outside with the garage door closed it doesn't work. But works fine with the regular remote. Does the home link have bad range or something?
 
#46 · (Edited)
I wanted to add my .02 cents. I'm including the sticker from my part, ordered from GMPARTSDIRECT.com.
On my 2011 LTZ w/sunroof I tapped into the orange(pink)/black wire pair. There were 2 bundles of wires wrapped in that nasty, sticky black crap. One bundle has 3 wires, one has 2, I used the 2. I hooked the black to black and the other color to color. Sorry, I did this at night so the colors weren't that discernible. You may want to change the ambient lights from the new part because for whatever reason the new part lights are orange/reddish. Everything is working just fine, the light on the button lights up when you press the button.

Thanks to the OP and everyone that contributed!

P.S. That part number is for a TAN plate and has everything: ABL, sunroof switch, Homelink buttons, and MIC.
 

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