So i'm fixing a car for a friend. Just replaced the lower intake manifold gasket that went fine. The car is not starting. It has fuel pressure at the rails, and the fuel pump is priming. It has spark since i was able to run it off carb cleaner. The theft light is on. Not blinking. when i attempt to start the car it turns over but will not fire. The theft light goes off after attempting to start. Doesn't blink when trying to start. It was sitting for a few months prior to replacing the gasket and wouldn't start before I got my hands on it. All vaccum lines attached correctly along with all electrical connectors. It has a fully charged battery(it was on a trickle charger for about a week).
It seems to me that the injectors aren't firing. I read about the crappy theft system. Attempted the work around (10 minute thing) but didn't work. I might not have done it right. I'm about ready to cover it in gasoline and light the thing on fire. Its probably something really stupid. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the bad sentence structure. Let me know if you need any more info.
Okay, let's assume the theft light is your problem. Turn the key to the crank position like starting the vehicle, when it doesn't start, leave it in the run postion for 10 minutes, the theft light should go out. Then turn the key off for 10 seconds and see if it starts. Really before you do this, disconnect the battery for a minute, reconnect the battery and go right to the relearn procedure. If it then runs, you need the Passlock sensor replaced which is part of the ignition lock cylinder. If you do that, put an ignition switch in at the same time since you're right there anyway and they fail a lot. Good luck.
When i go to crank the car the theft light goes out 1-2 seconds after cranking and doesn't come back on. I will try the relearn procedure again though. Any other thoughts would help me out as i am at a loss for ideas besides trying to rewire the whole system to bypass the theft module. I do appreciate the reply.
Okay, I didn't see that the theft light went out after cranking, it was in the first post, I just didn't see it. Now, is the check engine light on when you turn the key to the run position? If it isn't the car won't start. If it is not on with the key in the run position, check the PCM ACC and IPC/BFC ACC fuses in the accessory, run and crank positions for battery voltage (12V). Also check the F/P INJR and PCM IGN fuses in the run and crank positions, again for battery voltage. Obviously when you check the fuses and you're cranking, the voltage may be 10 or 11 volts. That's fine, what you don't want to see is 3 to 5 volts or so. You're checking here for a bad ignition switch or fuse block.
You say the fuel pump is running and there's pressure. How much pressure? Spec is 52-59 psi, KOEO and pump running. Pressure tap is by the p/s pump, not real convenient to get to but it's where it is. You're in a bad spot here since it didn't run when you got it. See where you get now and we'll go from there. Just got to get some sort of idea of what we do and don't have for the car to start.
The fuel pressure is about 59 give or take .5 psi. The CEL is on when the key is in the on position. The car did run before it was parked just poorly (bad lower intake manifold gasket). The most i can do at the moment is check the resistance in the system and to see if the fuse is blown. I don't have anyone to crank the car for me.
Got fuel pressure, spark, check engine light is on in the key on position, runs on carb cleaner, assuming for the time being there is not a theft system issue. Double check the injector harness connector that it's completely connected. It's in the area of the back of the alternator, 16 way connector. Pin A, pink wire, is common power, pin B, yellow wire, is CTS signal, pins C through H are the ground side of the injectors 1 (pinC) through 6 (pin H). Injector resistance is 12 ohms and acceptable range is 11.4 to 12.6 ohms. Don't go jamming a probe in the terminal but verify power is good in the RUN position, then key OFF check your individual injector resistances. Coolant temp sensor is connected right? If not, the PCM sees -40 degrees and it might not start with that much raw fuel. CTS is forward and below the thermostat, two wire connector.
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