How hard would it be for the DIYer and what is the best place to get a good price for a decent pair of these.., I am not looking for high dollar ones, I am using the made in China complete struts in the front and those are good.
Please let me know the best toute.., whether to DIY or take it to the shop.
I'll stick with the 'how hard to do' end of this as I wouldn't use off brand parts. Probably Moog only but I'm sure some other members can point you in the right direction there. There's a pair of flats on the inboard end of the inner tie rod, that is what you unscrew the rod with. There's a tool to do it, an example of what is looks like and what you'll spend for it is here
. You'd need a half inch drive breaker bar, a torque wrench if you're so inclined when you put it together, you would also need to get the bellows kits or some way to retain the bellows to the rack when you go back together since the bellows boot comes off to access the flats on the inner tie rod. Loosen the lock nut on the tie rod, pop the outer tie rod out and unthread it from the inner tie rod. Count the number of turns you come out as it's a ball park gauge to where you need to be going back together. Change the tie rod, there's usually a drop or two of red thread locker put on the threads where they screw into the rack. Put it back together in the reverse order. 74 ft.lbs. is the torque spec for the inner tie rod to the rack. You should get an alignment done as toe will be off. Check the rack end seals for leakage. If they're leaking replace the rack.
Moog, ACDelco, Raybestos Professional Grade (NOT SERVICE GRADE!!!) - that's all I would bother with going back on. Don't bother with the Moog bellows, though - I went through two sets (!!) on my Cougar inside of a year, got ACDelco on there now (THOSE seem to be lasting much better.)
The tool can be bought at Harbor Freight, http://www.harborfreight.com/inner-t...set-96558.html . Note: Rodents would chew one of those up in a month or so on the rack, but for a DIY, it's a bit more affordable. Or, of course, there's the Loan-A-Tool type programs most of the regional/national parts houses have.
RwP
__________________
335K miles on original motor and tranny (only motor work 2 x LIM replacement), Monroe SensaTrac struts front and back (new at approx. 300K miles), and Alero discs in back. LS fogs added with custom wiring. HID high beams, HIR low and halogen fogs. Raybestos Pro Grade front rotors and Bendix D747 ceramic pads on front.
Addendum: Rest in peace. Surge tank blew, motor overheated, I think she's lived a long and useful life.
Last edited by RalphP; 06-22-2012 at 08:12 PM.
Reason: Added note about bellows
Some stuff at Harbor Freight is okay, I've got some stuff from there and it is what it is for the price. Did you try a parts place, Advance, AutoZone. I think some of them rent or loan tools unless I'm dreaming that up. It's most likely a tool you'll use once and maybe never again.
Some stuff at Harbor Freight is okay, I've got some stuff from there and it is what it is for the price. Did you try a parts place, Advance, AutoZone. I think some of them rent or loan tools unless I'm dreaming that up. It's most likely a tool you'll use once and maybe never again.
They do, Rodents. I did mention that also
But with *counts* back down to three R&P vehicles in the family, I figured it was well worth having the tool for us.
RwP
__________________
335K miles on original motor and tranny (only motor work 2 x LIM replacement), Monroe SensaTrac struts front and back (new at approx. 300K miles), and Alero discs in back. LS fogs added with custom wiring. HID high beams, HIR low and halogen fogs. Raybestos Pro Grade front rotors and Bendix D747 ceramic pads on front.
Addendum: Rest in peace. Surge tank blew, motor overheated, I think she's lived a long and useful life.
I will rent the tool from Auto zone, and install the when they arrive.
I hope I do not need seals for the steering rack/pinion.
I figured that all the rest of the front end is Primechoice brand stuff, and I have had that on there for a year and a half with no problems, so might as well continue the cheap, made in China theme with the front end parts.
The reality of it all, is nothing lasts forever anyway, (Ralph can attest to that) so might as well do it on the Cheap! Besides, after putting all this money into the front end, the tranny could go, or some A hole w/out insurance could hit me, and then I would really be screwed!
I figured that all the rest of the front end is Primechoice brand stuff, and I have had that on there for a year and a half with no problems, so might as well continue the cheap, made in China theme with the front end parts.
My problem with that, personally, is that ... there's only one of me. A tie rod comes apart while driving (has happened to me!), and there's a good chance there's no more of me after the car runs sideways into a brick divider (luckily I was going slow over a rail road track, and could pull off to the right like the right tire was pointing ... )
Nothing wrong with shopping around, but I insist on good quality parts for my car's front end.
That's my choice, anyway.
RwP
__________________
335K miles on original motor and tranny (only motor work 2 x LIM replacement), Monroe SensaTrac struts front and back (new at approx. 300K miles), and Alero discs in back. LS fogs added with custom wiring. HID high beams, HIR low and halogen fogs. Raybestos Pro Grade front rotors and Bendix D747 ceramic pads on front.
Addendum: Rest in peace. Surge tank blew, motor overheated, I think she's lived a long and useful life.
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Replacing inner tie-rod ends 2001 Malibu
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