Hi there,
I need a 12V power for my electronics. At first, I wanted to get the power from the fuse box. But it appeared that it is a constant power, which may cause the battery drained and I don't want that...
So, guys, where did you get the power for your in-car stuff? Which starts up as key turning on, shuts down as you left the car?
Front center console, right side. Pull cover to reveal fuses. Cover has what is what molded into it. Find the circuit you want and use an Add-A-Circuit to add a fused tap without having to splice into wires. Cheap, easy, removable!
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'11 LTZ, born Aug 2010, Fairfax, KS
V6/A6, Red Jewel Tintcoat / Cocoa-Cashmere, Sunroof
Cool Mods: Drop-in K&N air filter; 20% tint, DRLs on turn signals,
Painted grilles, 1-wipe washer, WeatherTech mats, CHMSL Pulser
Front center console, right side. Pull cover to reveal fuses. Cover has what is what molded into it. Find the circuit you want and use an Add-A-Circuit to add a fused tap without having to splice into wires. Cheap, easy, removable!
It has the contacts to slide in where the stock fuse goes which is then plugged into the lower set of holes. The upper set is where you tap into the circuit.
Note: To properly install it have the prospective donor circuit powered (such as heater, AC, etc), then pull the stock fuse. Using a light tester find which of the two pins is powered. The side of the device without the wire coming off of it is the side that will plug into that powered pin. That makes sure that the original circuit is protected by its fuse and the new circuit is protected by the new fuse without having to go through the stock fuse.
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'11 LTZ, born Aug 2010, Fairfax, KS
V6/A6, Red Jewel Tintcoat / Cocoa-Cashmere, Sunroof
Cool Mods: Drop-in K&N air filter; 20% tint, DRLs on turn signals,
Painted grilles, 1-wipe washer, WeatherTech mats, CHMSL Pulser
Yes. This is exactly what I did. It's easy and safe, but the biggest problem is the power is constant. I only need the power when driving, pretty much the same as windows or radio.
It has the contacts to slide in where the stock fuse goes which is then plugged into the lower set of holes. The upper set is where you tap into the circuit.
Note: To properly install it have the prospective donor circuit powered (such as heater, AC, etc), then pull the stock fuse. Using a light tester find which of the two pins is powered. The side of the device without the wire coming off of it is the side that will plug into that powered pin. That makes sure that the original circuit is protected by its fuse and the new circuit is protected by the new fuse without having to go through the stock fuse.
Geeti - Pick another fuse then. Or if there's not a switched fuse in that block, pick another block with a switched fuse and then extend the wire back to control the relay.
RwP
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335K miles on original motor and tranny (only motor work 2 x LIM replacement), Monroe SensaTrac struts front and back (new at approx. 300K miles), and Alero discs in back. LS fogs added with custom wiring. HID high beams, HIR low and halogen fogs. Raybestos Pro Grade front rotors and Bendix D747 ceramic pads on front.
Addendum: Rest in peace. Surge tank blew, motor overheated, I think she's lived a long and useful life.
Sunroof fuse is almost always switched on GM cars. One of my cars that didn't have a sunroof still had the fuse there in the block and it was switched 12v.
Geeti - Pick another fuse then. Or if there's not a switched fuse in that block, pick another block with a switched fuse and then extend the wire back to control the relay.
I am an electrical engineer, and those stuff wouldn't be a problem.
I read the electrical circuit graph of malibu, and it appears all fuses are directly connected to battery. Aren't they?
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrivenDaily
If you are unable to figure that much out by yourself then maybe you should reconsider doing any electrical modifications to your car.
After all, it is filled with wires that are for the LAN and splicing into them can do irreparable harm to the BCM. Not cheap!
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