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Old 06-10-2011, 05:06 PM   #1
rluck9277
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Default Changing the Transmission filter on my 4T45 this weekend....

My car is almost at the magical 50,000 mile mark, so this weekend I am going to drop the trans pan and change the filter. I know there has been some confusion on here about whether it should be done or not, on the 4-spd auto is recomended to have a filter change and fresh fluid at 50,000. GM trying to help get business into dealerships didn't put a dip stick on the trans in this car, but I am sorry, I am not going to pay the dealership $170 for something I can do myself for $80.

So how do you know how much trans fluid to put in after the filter change? There is a level check bolt on the passenger side of the transaxle, right above the pan flange near were the axle comes out. Here is a pic.....



What you do is once you get the new filter on and pan put back on, you add 7quarts of trans fluid and then start it and let it run a few minutes and shift it through the gears a few times and let it warm up a bit and then pull the plug out. If no fluid is visible or coming out, then you add fluid till it comes out and then stop adding fluid, and when it stops coming out it is full.

I wanted to use Mobil 1 Dexron VI Synthetic ATF, but I can't find it anywhere so I picked up some Castrol Synthetic Blend Dexron VI for $7.50 a quart which wasn't a bad deal. I will take a few pics tomorrow when I am doing it and put them on here so ya'all can see how it went.
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Old 06-10-2011, 05:10 PM   #2
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Default Re: Changing the Transmission filter on my 4T45 this weekend....

I actuall found this write up from an ASE mechanic on another site that explains how to change the filter really well....

This was on a Pontiac G6 with a 4T45....jhvcx.

Automatic Transmission Fluid Filter and Seal Replacement
Removal Procedure
Caution: Ensure that the vehicle is properly supported and squarely positioned. To help avoid personal injury when a vehicle is on a hoist, provide additional support for the vehicle on the opposite end from which the components are being removed.





Position the vehicle on a hoist and raise the vehicle.
Place a drain pan under the transaxle oil pan.
Remove the oil pan bolts from the front and sides only.
Loosen the rear oil pan bolts approximately 4 times.
Notice: Pry the oil pan carefully in order to prevent damage to the transaxle case or the oil pan sealing surfaces.

Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or carefully pry in order to allow the oil to drain.
Remove the AIR. Refer to Transmission Fluid Check .
Inspect the fluid color.



Remove the remaining oil pan bolts and the oil pan.
Remove the oil pan gasket.



Remove the oil level control valve.
Remove the oil filter and oil filter O-ring seal. The seal may stay in case when filter is removed.



Important: Do not score or damage the transaxle case when removing the filter neck seal.

Using a chisel, indent the top of the filter neck seal to relax the press fit.
Remove the filter neck seal from the transaxle case and discard.
Remove all traces of the old gasket material.
Clean the transaxle case and oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent, and allow to air dry.
Installation Procedure




Notice: Use petroleum jelly when lubricating the components. Greases other than petroleum jelly will change the transaxle fluid characteristics and will cause undesirable shift conditions or filter clogging.

Install a new filter neck seal. A large socket can be used as an installation tool as shown. Two mallets can be used as well.



Coat the new filter O-ring seal with a small amount of petroleum jelly, and install the filter into the case.
Notice: Push straight down on the center of the oil level control valve in order to prevent damage to the case bore.

Install the oil level control valve.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.





Install the oil pan gasket, the oil pan, and hand start the oil pan bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the oil pan bolts to 12 Nm (9 lb ft).

Lower the vehicle.
Refill transaxle using DEXRON VI to the specified refill capacity.
Specification

• The bottom pan removal capacity is approximately 6.5 L (6.9 qt).

• The complete overhaul capacity is approximately 9 L (9.5 qt).

• The dry capacity is approximately 12.2 L (12.9 qt).

Start the engine. Warm up the transaxle and check for leaks.
Check for proper fluid level. Refer to Transmission Fluid Check

As for checking the level, there is a small plug that needs to be removed from right (passenger side) of the trans, sits just below the axle seal, and aprox 12 mm head on it, with car running, on a level surface, undo that plug, have a catch pan ready incase its over full, when the fluid stops draining out its full, if nothing comes out, add fluid until it comes out that hole. Fluid is added through the vent cap wich is on top of the trans, kinda under the air inlet duct for the engine.
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Old 06-10-2011, 06:17 PM   #3
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Default Re: Changing the Transmission filter on my 4T45 this weekend....

Quote:
Originally Posted by rluck9277 View Post
but I am sorry, I am not going to pay the dealership $170 for something I can do myself for $80.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rluck9277 View Post
Caution: Ensure that the vehicle is properly supported and squarely positioned. To help avoid personal injury when a vehicle is on a hoist, provide additional support for the vehicle on the opposite end from which the components are being removed.
THAT is the most important thing that will be posted in this thread.
Had a friends husband decide he would change the transmission fluid in his truck.....on ramps.....in PARK. He was gonna save around $200 too.

While he is messing around near the tranny, he bumps the shift linkage and it comes out of PARK. The rest isn't pretty.

It rolls down off the ramps, crushing one of his legs and his wife runs out to his screams to help get it off him. He likely will always walk with a limp but says he is lucky to have that leg at all. So far it took 3 fairly major operations to set and pin everything.........and it cost him a good bit more than $200 in the end.
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Old 06-10-2011, 06:33 PM   #4
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Default Re: Changing the Transmission filter on my 4T45 this weekend....

Not trying to make this thread take a morbid turn, but when I worked at NEC back in 2000-2001 there was an engineer on the Safety Team who was working on his car at home. It fell on him and he died.

Take the time to use a jack stand or two. Please!

PS: The plea for safety is for ALL who read this, not just the OP.
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Last edited by DrivenDaily; 06-10-2011 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 06-10-2011, 06:38 PM   #5
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Default Re: Changing the Transmission filter on my 4T45 this weekend....

Quote:
Originally Posted by MalibuKen View Post
THAT is the most important thing that will be posted in this thread.
Had a friends husband decide he would change the transmission fluid in his truck.....on ramps.....in PARK. He was gonna save around $200 too.

While he is messing around near the tranny, he bumps the shift linkage and it comes out of PARK. The rest isn't pretty.

It rolls down off the ramps, crushing one of his legs and his wife runs out to his screams to help get it off him. He likely will always walk with a limp but says he is lucky to have that leg at all. So far it took 3 fairly major operations to set and pin everything.........and it cost him a good bit more than $200 in the end.
That is a very sad story, but I am well of aware of the need to be safe. My father has worked in the auto industry for 40 years, and in the past I have worked in dealerships. I have built my own drag car, and usually do all my own maintence. I own a floor jack and four 2-ton jack stands to safely raise the vehicle up off the ground. I am n a position that can afford to have any maintence done at a dealership that needs to be done on my car. But I just have a hard time paying for something I can do myself. Plus I like working on my cars, and I know it is done right, and not by some kid justr out off high school.
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Old 06-10-2011, 07:31 PM   #6
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Wink Re: Changing the Transmission filter on my 4T45 this weekend....

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrivenDaily View Post
Not trying to make this thread take a morbid turn, but when I worked at NEC back in 2000-2001 there was an engineer on the Safety Team who was working on his car at home. It fell on him and he died.

Take the time to use a jack stand or two. Please!

PS: The plea for safety is for ALL who read this, not just the OP.
Yeah, after I read my post I realized I came off as kind off an ass. I didn't mean too. My 8 month old has been sick the last few nights and I havent had much sleep. I appreciate the concern and agree that people should use proper tools and equimpment when working on their own cars. She seems to be doing better tonight, so hopefully my wife and I can get some sleep tonight.
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:24 PM   #7
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Default Re: Changing the Transmission filter on my 4T45 this weekend....

You didn't come off that way to me. I went back and edited in the PS: so you wouldn't think I was directing it at you. This is a public forum so I try to make sure that other readers are benefitted as well.
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Old 06-11-2011, 09:48 AM   #8
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Default Re: Changing the Transmission filter on my 4T45 this weekend....

Just pay for an atf exchange and get it over with. You will waste more time then money.
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Old 06-11-2011, 03:24 PM   #9
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Default Re: Changing the Transmission filter on my 4T45 this weekend....

Well I just got done. It wasn't very hard, but it would have been much easier with a hoist or bigger jack stands. I did really well not spilling a drop of trans fluid when I took the pan off, but forgot to put the drain pan back under when I took the filter out and about a half quart spilled on the floor.

As far as how it drives...before I did the change it had the classic GM clunk when going from reverse to drive. After words the clunk is gone, seems to shift smoother as well.

My wife and I are going out to dinner now, when I get back I will do a little write up and upload a few pics I took.
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Old 06-11-2011, 04:24 PM   #10
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Default Re: Changing the Transmission filter on my 4T45 this weekend....

Did you switch to a synthetic or blend?
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