You do realize that you're going to need to recover and recharge the A/C system correct? I can't say off the top of my head if there's any real short cuts, can't say I've done more than one or two of these myself and none recently. Quite a bit of removal here, sure you're up to it? If you get it apart and then decide you don't want to finish it, best of luck to you, some shops don't take that very well. If you need some more detail than Chilton gives, I'll try to help from GM service information.
Yes, Chilton's was pretty clear about the A/C issue, which is a bummer as that system is working just fine. I've got a few days cleared to put into it and will be taking notes as I go. This is definitely more complex than the last two cores I did--'49 Ford F-1 and a '56 Buick Century.
How long does the GM manual think this should take? I'll probably need triple that! Thanks for the assistance.
Well, I'm 3 hrs in. Chilton's isn't as clear or as applicable for this year and model as I thought it would be. I thought I was removing the dash COVER, which I did--mostly, until the steering wheel got in the way, a little detail not mentioned by Chiltons.
What it looks like the manufacturer intended is the removal of the ENTIRE DASH ASSEMBLY including sub-structures. That means there is nothing left between the seats and the firewall. Not sure if I'm ready to do that. I think I'll spend a few hours under the dash looking for other options.
If I can make a suggestion - Since you'll be recovering the freon ANYWAY, I'd swap the evaporator while you were in there. My plans are when I swap the dash (which is cracked!) on the Cougar, I'll be swapping both cores while it's apart. Just because Ford apparently hung both in mid air and built the car around them ...
335K miles on original motor and tranny (only motor work 2 x LIM replacement), Monroe SensaTrac struts front and back (new at approx. 300K miles), and Alero discs in back. LS fogs added with custom wiring. HID high beams, HIR low and halogen fogs. Raybestos Pro Grade front rotors and Bendix D747 ceramic pads on front.
Addendum: Rest in peace. Surge tank blew, motor overheated, I think she's lived a long and useful life.
Now you've seen the light. I think Alldata showed 6.6 hrs to do the evap core not including recovery and recharge of the A/C system. Once you've done a couple yeah maybe down and back in a day, first one is not a money maker though. That's the bad part about the Haynes and Chilton type books anymore, they can't cover the material thoroughly enough for doing every job. Alldata is the same thing, just enough info to get you into trouble, then you're on your own.
If you still want to do this, let me know and I'll see if I can print out some of the stuff you need so I can email it to you. It's not the good old days anymore. I think you're going to find there's a couple screws and a panel or two in your way, not much but just enough to keep it from being done.
Good news! The heater core case is a 2 part unit--a few screws and the lower cover came off, a couple of nuts on the engine side of the firewall to make the core slide out easier, and it's out. Evap core not affected at all--it's farther up in the case--so there was no need to recover and recharge the A/C system at all--too bad I already paid for that...
Will do a detailed write-up when I've got the thing back together, paying careful attention to what DID NOT have to be done. BTW--it was Hayes, not Chilton's that led me astray.
Good! By the picture in GM service information it wasn't real clear if there were screws hidden along the way. Usually just a couple screws or a panel somewhere cause a lot of additional labor but you got it. Great. Books are only guides.
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