This will convert your 'Bu from wiping several times after washing to completing a cycle and parking.
PLEASE NOTE: This modification will require you to cut two of your stock wires. Consider not doing this if you don't want to make this permanent adjustment.
DISCLAIMER: Only you are responsible for any damage, incidental or otherwise, as a result of attempting this modification.
Thanks to CMF member and technical guru Starship for his contribution of torque specs, component images, and GM disassembly instructions!
Definitions:
BCM = Body Control Module, located under the front portion of the center console
SPST = Single-pole Single-throw (on-off)
NOTE: Diagrams of BCM connectors are shown from the pin side, not the wire side. Use this to correctly identify the wires you need.
TOOLS NEEDED:
Wire cutter / stripper
Electrical tape
Small flat screwdriver
1/4-drive ratchet
Long extension
7MM socket
U-joint (for top screw on BCM - see steps 3 and 7)
Optional:
Soldering iron (butane is cordless and the most convenient)
Solder
Heat shrink tubing - assorted sizes
Scissors for tape & heat shrink tubing
PARTS NEEDED:
Blue = Auto parts store
Red = Radio Shack
Black = Your option
Bulb = Can be any of a number of small 12V bulbs, i.e. 168 or 194
Bulb socket (for above)
Add-A-Circuit = AutoZone part number BP-HHH-RP (#032416) for ATM fuses ($6.99)
Fuse = 10A ATM (same physical size as in car)
Diode = 2 required, can be of any design or size capable of passing coil amperage (These are polarized and can be damaged during soldering if a heatsink is not used.)
Wire = 18, 20, or 22 gauge - can be stranded or solid
SPST relay = 12V coil, with minimum contact rating of 5A
Ring terminal = Small (red) for wire above, sized for BCM screw (see steps 3 and 16)
Optional:
Project box
If you prefer crimp connectors:
Butt splices
Taps (allows you to tap into a wire and add a new one to it)
HOW TO:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. (I didn't, but it's my car.)
2. Remove the passenger side floor console extension panel.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums...10408/CMF/RightFloorConsoleExtensionPanel.gif
You will see the BCM. This is mine with 2 modifications (DRLs using the turn signal filaments; 1-wipe wash)
3. Remove 3 screws (1).
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/starshiptrooper010408/CMF -- DD/BCM.gif
4. Move the BCM (2, above) toward passenger side to find connector X4, on backside of BCM.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/starshiptrooper010408/CMF -- DD/BCMBottomView.gif
5. Find the orange wire at pin B1 and cut it.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/starshiptrooper010408/CMF -- DD/BCMConnectorX4.gif
6. Attach ~2 feet wire to end that is not on connector X4. I used solder and heat shrink tubing for a connection that won't need to be diagnosed in the future. Route it so that it will be available on the passenger side of the BCM.
7. Reinstall BCM to car. Tighten screws (1, above) to 1.5 N·m (13 in lb).
8. Identify BCM connector X3. (Two images)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/starshiptrooper010408/CMF -- DD/BCMTopView.gif
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/starshiptrooper010408/CMF -- DD/BCMConnectorX3.gif
9. Find orange wire at pin C12 and cut it. Attach wire from step 6 to the end that is not on connector X3, plus add another wire that is ~1 foot long. (To the stock orange wire you will attach two wires: the one from step 6 and a new one.) Mark one or both as "Washer" and/or "Washer Switch".
10. Identify BCM connector X1 and disconnect it by gently prying (with screwdriver or other tool) the center gray tab just slightly away from the blue cover and moving it upward. Remove the blue cover by unsnapping it. You may have to move the bail back and forth to make room for its removal.
11. NOTE: The drawing shows the pin numbers from the PIN side, not the WIRE side. The second column of pins begins between pins 1 and 55 and is #19. Find the DARK GREEN wire at pin 22 and tap a new wire into it. Mark it as "Wiper".
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/starshiptrooper010408/CMF -- DD/BCMConnectorsX1X2.gif
12. On same connector (X1), find YELLOW wire at pin 26 and tap a new wire into it. Mark it as "Park".
13. Reattach blue cover and reconnect X1 to J1 on BCM. Snap bail securely.
14. Using the schematic from my DropBox file (below, in Excel format), wire up your 1-wipe wash mod. For now, have a black wire ~1 foot long coming out as your ground. Also have a wire ~1 foot long coming out for the contact labeled "Wiper Switch Fuse". Later you will use the Add-A-Circuit wire as the source of your 12V.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4191695/1-Wipe Wash.xls
15. I mounted my mod in a project box and placed it at the front cavity of the console, nearest the firewall, wedged down into the foam. Place yours as you find appropriate.
16. Route black wire for ground over to 3rd screw at bottom BCM and attach a ring terminal to it. Screw it down.
17. Attach final wire for power to the Add-A-Circuit. Place a 10A fuse in the top hole that is in line with the wire.
18. Remove the fuse in the fuse block identified as "10A Wiper Sw" on the inside of the console cover.
19. Install it in the other opening in the Add-A-Circuit, then install the Add-A-Circuit in place of the stock fuse. The wire needs to be aimed down to the floor in order for the proper circuit protection. The +12V is on the top terminal and the protected circuit is on the bottom. In the image below, it is on the far right, second row, third from right, with a + at the inside and top of the fuse.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/starshiptrooper010408/CMF -- DD/BCMTopView.gif
20. Double-check your wiring and the assembly of your mod components for proper polarity. (Diodes are polarized.)
21. Reattach the negative battery cable, if disconnected. The torque value on the battery clamp nut is 5 N·m (44 in lb).
22. Test by turning key to Acc or Run, then press the Wash button. The washer will squirt and the wipers will begin wiping. After releasing the wipers will complete a cycle and park.
FINALLY: If your circuit does not work, check it again for proper assembly of the component parts, including polarity of the diodes and each connection. If it still doesn't work, send me a PM. Please DO NOT POST a comment in this thread about any difficulties. I'll do my best to help each one if that is needed, but I'm only a member and volunteer here, just like you.
PLEASE NOTE: This modification will require you to cut two of your stock wires. Consider not doing this if you don't want to make this permanent adjustment.
DISCLAIMER: Only you are responsible for any damage, incidental or otherwise, as a result of attempting this modification.
Thanks to CMF member and technical guru Starship for his contribution of torque specs, component images, and GM disassembly instructions!
Definitions:
BCM = Body Control Module, located under the front portion of the center console
SPST = Single-pole Single-throw (on-off)
NOTE: Diagrams of BCM connectors are shown from the pin side, not the wire side. Use this to correctly identify the wires you need.
TOOLS NEEDED:
Wire cutter / stripper
Electrical tape
Small flat screwdriver
1/4-drive ratchet
Long extension
7MM socket
U-joint (for top screw on BCM - see steps 3 and 7)
Optional:
Soldering iron (butane is cordless and the most convenient)
Solder
Heat shrink tubing - assorted sizes
Scissors for tape & heat shrink tubing
PARTS NEEDED:
Blue = Auto parts store
Red = Radio Shack
Black = Your option
Bulb = Can be any of a number of small 12V bulbs, i.e. 168 or 194
Bulb socket (for above)
Add-A-Circuit = AutoZone part number BP-HHH-RP (#032416) for ATM fuses ($6.99)
Fuse = 10A ATM (same physical size as in car)
Diode = 2 required, can be of any design or size capable of passing coil amperage (These are polarized and can be damaged during soldering if a heatsink is not used.)
Wire = 18, 20, or 22 gauge - can be stranded or solid
SPST relay = 12V coil, with minimum contact rating of 5A
Ring terminal = Small (red) for wire above, sized for BCM screw (see steps 3 and 16)
Optional:
Project box
If you prefer crimp connectors:
Butt splices
Taps (allows you to tap into a wire and add a new one to it)
HOW TO:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. (I didn't, but it's my car.)
2. Remove the passenger side floor console extension panel.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums...10408/CMF/RightFloorConsoleExtensionPanel.gif
You will see the BCM. This is mine with 2 modifications (DRLs using the turn signal filaments; 1-wipe wash)
3. Remove 3 screws (1).
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/starshiptrooper010408/CMF -- DD/BCM.gif
4. Move the BCM (2, above) toward passenger side to find connector X4, on backside of BCM.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/starshiptrooper010408/CMF -- DD/BCMBottomView.gif
5. Find the orange wire at pin B1 and cut it.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/starshiptrooper010408/CMF -- DD/BCMConnectorX4.gif
6. Attach ~2 feet wire to end that is not on connector X4. I used solder and heat shrink tubing for a connection that won't need to be diagnosed in the future. Route it so that it will be available on the passenger side of the BCM.
7. Reinstall BCM to car. Tighten screws (1, above) to 1.5 N·m (13 in lb).
8. Identify BCM connector X3. (Two images)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/starshiptrooper010408/CMF -- DD/BCMTopView.gif
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/starshiptrooper010408/CMF -- DD/BCMConnectorX3.gif
9. Find orange wire at pin C12 and cut it. Attach wire from step 6 to the end that is not on connector X3, plus add another wire that is ~1 foot long. (To the stock orange wire you will attach two wires: the one from step 6 and a new one.) Mark one or both as "Washer" and/or "Washer Switch".
10. Identify BCM connector X1 and disconnect it by gently prying (with screwdriver or other tool) the center gray tab just slightly away from the blue cover and moving it upward. Remove the blue cover by unsnapping it. You may have to move the bail back and forth to make room for its removal.
11. NOTE: The drawing shows the pin numbers from the PIN side, not the WIRE side. The second column of pins begins between pins 1 and 55 and is #19. Find the DARK GREEN wire at pin 22 and tap a new wire into it. Mark it as "Wiper".
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/starshiptrooper010408/CMF -- DD/BCMConnectorsX1X2.gif
12. On same connector (X1), find YELLOW wire at pin 26 and tap a new wire into it. Mark it as "Park".
13. Reattach blue cover and reconnect X1 to J1 on BCM. Snap bail securely.
14. Using the schematic from my DropBox file (below, in Excel format), wire up your 1-wipe wash mod. For now, have a black wire ~1 foot long coming out as your ground. Also have a wire ~1 foot long coming out for the contact labeled "Wiper Switch Fuse". Later you will use the Add-A-Circuit wire as the source of your 12V.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4191695/1-Wipe Wash.xls
15. I mounted my mod in a project box and placed it at the front cavity of the console, nearest the firewall, wedged down into the foam. Place yours as you find appropriate.
16. Route black wire for ground over to 3rd screw at bottom BCM and attach a ring terminal to it. Screw it down.
17. Attach final wire for power to the Add-A-Circuit. Place a 10A fuse in the top hole that is in line with the wire.
18. Remove the fuse in the fuse block identified as "10A Wiper Sw" on the inside of the console cover.
19. Install it in the other opening in the Add-A-Circuit, then install the Add-A-Circuit in place of the stock fuse. The wire needs to be aimed down to the floor in order for the proper circuit protection. The +12V is on the top terminal and the protected circuit is on the bottom. In the image below, it is on the far right, second row, third from right, with a + at the inside and top of the fuse.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd445/starshiptrooper010408/CMF -- DD/BCMTopView.gif
20. Double-check your wiring and the assembly of your mod components for proper polarity. (Diodes are polarized.)
21. Reattach the negative battery cable, if disconnected. The torque value on the battery clamp nut is 5 N·m (44 in lb).
22. Test by turning key to Acc or Run, then press the Wash button. The washer will squirt and the wipers will begin wiping. After releasing the wipers will complete a cycle and park.
FINALLY: If your circuit does not work, check it again for proper assembly of the component parts, including polarity of the diodes and each connection. If it still doesn't work, send me a PM. Please DO NOT POST a comment in this thread about any difficulties. I'll do my best to help each one if that is needed, but I'm only a member and volunteer here, just like you.