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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, so my Malibu (2006 Malibu Maxx LT 3.5) has always had issues with the windows since I got it, and I thought I had gotten them all fixed after replacing a broken window regulator and the worn out master window switch.

But after I plugged in the the new genuine GM master window switch I had bought from RockAuto, I tested the switches, and none of them did anything (not sure if this issue started ‘after’ the switch was installed, or before). I wondered at first if the new switch was bad. But after trying the switches on the other doors, which I knew worked previously, and finding none of them worked now either, I suspected the fuse had blown. (note: I had done all of this with the engine on, for some reason)

So, I checked the passenger compartment fuse box, and sure enough, the 30-amp power window switch was blown.

I had a lot of extra fuses since I had just replaced the engine compartment fuse box, so I pulled out the blown fuse, and stuck in a good one. ‘Instantly’ it blew, without me even touching anything.

At that point I shut the engine off, and pulled the second blown fuse out.
I wondered if the new switch might be part of the issue, so I unplugged the master window switch, turned the key to the ‘on’, but not ‘start’ position, and put in another good 30-amp fuse. This time, it didn’t blow.

I plugged the master window switch back in. Fuse still good. I tested the switch: all four windows worked. Finally, I was abled to fully raise the window I had replaced the regulator on! It had been slightly down for 3 days, it had been raining, and now the seat smells like mildew…

I shut the vehicle back off and removed the power window fuse until I could figure out some idea as to what’s going on with it.

Sorry for the sort of long story, but to summarize:

Any ideas why the fuse blows instantly when the engine is running, but is fine, and the windows work, when the power is on but the engine is off?
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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No worries about the story length. It told me a bunch of good info.

Have you tried installing a good fuse and running the engine? When it blew the first time, there's no sure reason why, but it worked the second time, albeit without the engine running. The ON position should provide the same power to the switches with or without the engine running.

The way your window switches work is that both wires to each motor form a loop from one to the other. They do this through the contacts in both switches, the one on the door and the other one in the driver's master panel. (Except the driver's window, of course, which makes the loop through just that one switch.) While at rest, both of the wires are switched to ground.

When you move the switch for that window, only one of the two contacts moves to connect it to power. The other remains at rest, providing the ground path.

It's not impossible that there was something inside one of your new switches that caused it, but you'd have to disassemble all of them to find out. It's also possible that one or more of your window motors had come to rest in a position that caused it/them to draw a lot of power when you plugged them in, overpowering the circuit and blowing the fuse.

That's why I asked the above. It shouldn't matter if the engine is running or not. If they work with the key ON, they should work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay, so, tried again, and now it is doing something different.
The fuse is blowing as soon as the key is turned to the (I) On position, without even starting the engine.

I’ve uploaded a short clip showing the [current] issue here:
 

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As expected, having the engine running or not didn't make a difference. However . . .

When you say "one turn", do you mean that it's on ACC, and "two turns" means it's on RUN?

If so, then on ACC is when I saw it start to have an issue. Turning it to RUN just finished the job.

If you unplug the switch panel, does the fuse blow at any key position? If not, then the switch panel is where the issue exists.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As expected, having the engine running or not didn't make a difference. However . . .

When you say "one turn", do you mean that it's on ACC, and "two turns" means it's on RUN?

If so, then on ACC is when I saw it start to have an issue. Turning it to RUN just finished the job.

If you unplug the switch panel, does the fuse blow at any key position? If not, then the switch panel is where the issue exists.
Yes, you are correct on what I meant about “one turn” and “two turns”

I thought I noticed that as well, but I wasn’t 100% sure. Glad you could confirm it for me.

Unfortunately, I’m out of good 30-amp Jcase fuses currently, so further testing will have to wait to wait for a bit.
 

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Driven seems to be on the right path but I will add this. From my experience I have seen a lot of issues with window switches and door problems stemming from the wiring inside the door jamb. The drivers door is obviously opened and closed numerous times throughout the vehicles life. Being 15 years old I’m sure it’s seen it’s fair share. You can inspect the wires inside the rubber boot for broken insulation and exposed copper. I’ve solved numerous complaints of door locks not functioning, windows inoperable, only goes down and not up etc. The way it seems so intermittent it could be a possibility and it doesn’t cost anything to pull apart the rubber boot and Inspect. Oh and btw. Never apologize for a long story. As previously mentioned lost of good info that can be absorbed to help point in the right direction. Keep us posted. Good luck.
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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@Nojokes09 makes a good point. It could be the wiring between the driver's door and the body. I had a Ford Crown Vic bust a wire in the middle of that harness. Cut it open, repaired the wire, never had another issue.

If your issue is there, you should be able to find it. I like his idea of using a flashlight, too. Shiny stuff attracts things, sometimes even "Precious" things.
 

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A continuity tester would make life easier testing your wiring. They are cheap to buy and a must have for the do it yourselfer. Also a nice extra long piece of wire with aligater clips on each end might be needed if you are tracing wiring over a long length
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, I can’t seem to figure out where the short is.
I don’t have any tools for electrical testing, so that doesn’t help.

I’m probably just going to end up getting a mechanic to diagnose it.
 

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continuity testers are like 10 bucks. Can find them at any local hardware store.
Any garage diagnosing wiring is going to cost you a big chunk of change potentially....so be ready for that

Best of luck, let us know how you make out
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Think i found the problem…
When I installed the new window regulator in the drivers side rear door, I made the mistake of sandwiching part of the wiring harness between it and the door frame before tightening it down..
this was the result from the lip on the metal box around the window motor

I resolved that issue, but still need to get another good fuse to test it
Body jewelry Finger Wrist Thumb Knot
 

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Ouch!
 

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You can inspect the wires inside the rubber boot for broken insulation and exposed copper. I’ve solved numerous complaints of door locks not functioning, windows inoperable, only goes down and not up etc.

Ding ding..... the winner is.....
Glad you got it solved Esbeth
 
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