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2006 Chevrolet Malibu LT 3.5L 173,xxx mi
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
The comparison is as follows. There WERE changes, but not necessarily for the better. So could this be an ECU / BCM issue? If so I can get one, but not sure what needs to be done to get it programmed correctly.

Car Scanner ELM OBD2
DTC report
Selected brand: Chevrolet
VIN: REDACTED
Car Scanner ELM OBD2
DTC report
Selected brand: Chevrolet
VIN: NOT CAPTURED
C0121
Raw code: 4121
ECU: ABS/EBCM/ESC
Status: History DTC
Chevrolet: Valve relay circuit malfunction
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
C0121
Raw code: 4121
ECU: ABS/EBCM/ESC
Status: History DTC
Chevrolet: Valve relay circuit malfunction
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
C0899
Raw code: 4899
ECU: ABS/EBCM/ESC
Status: History DTC
Chevrolet: Device #1 voltage low
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
C0899
Raw code: 4899
ECU: ABS/EBCM/ESC
Status: History DTC
Chevrolet: Device #1 voltage low
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
C0240
Raw code: 4240
ECU: ABS/EBCM/ESC
Status: History DTC
Chevrolet: PCM traction control not allowed
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
C0240
Raw code: 4240
ECU: ABS/EBCM/ESC
Status: History DTC
Chevrolet: PCM traction control not allowed
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
B3006
Raw code: B006
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, Current DTC, History DTC
Chevrolet: Hood ajar circuit malfunction; Hood Ajar Circuit Short to Battery; Hood Ajar Circuit Short to Ground; Hood Ajar Circuit Open
General Electrical Failures: short to battery [0x01]

This is expected, the hood WAS open.
B3006
Raw code: B006
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, Current DTC, History DTC
Chevrolet: Hood ajar circuit malfunction; Hood Ajar Circuit Short to Battery; Hood Ajar Circuit Short to Ground; Hood Ajar Circuit Open
General Electrical Failures: short to battery [0x01]

This is expected. The hood WAS open.
B0685
Raw code: 8685
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Security system indicator circuit malfunction
General Electrical Failures: short to ground or open [0x06]
B1325
Raw code: 9325
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Device power #1 (low current #1) circuit malfunction
General Electrical Failures: voltage below threshold [0x03]
B1325
Raw code: 9325
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Device power #1 (low current #1) circuit malfunction
General Electrical Failures: voltage below threshold [0x03]
B1441
Raw code: 9441
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Device ignition OFF/RUN/CRANK circuit malfunction
General Electrical Failures: short to ground or open [0x06]
B2555
Raw code: A555
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Passenger compartment lamp control circuit malfunction
General Electrical Failures: short to battery or open [0x05]
B2575
Raw code: A575
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Left Headlamp Control Circuit Malfunction; Left Headlamp Control Circuit Open; Headlamps Control Circuit Short to Battery; Headlamps Control Circuit Short to Ground
General Electrical Failures: short to ground or open [0x06]
B2585
Raw code: A585
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Parklamp control circuit malfunction; Left Park Lamps Control Circuit Short to Battery; Left Park Lamps Control Circuit Short to Ground; Park Lamps Control Circuit Open
General Electrical Failures: short to ground or open [0x06]
B2585
Raw code: A585
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Parklamp control circuit malfunction; Left Park Lamps Control Circuit Short to Battery; Left Park Lamps Control Circuit Short to Ground; Park Lamps Control Circuit Open
General Electrical Failures: short to ground or open [0x06]
B2645
Raw code: A645
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Ambient light sensor circuit malfunction; Ambient Light Sensor Circuit Below Threshold; Ambient Light Sensor Circuit Above Threshold
General Electrical Failures: short to battery or open [0x05]
B3265
Raw code: B265
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Trunk release output circuit malfunction; Luggage Compartment Lid Release Output Circuit Short to Battery; Luggage Compartment Lid Opening Circuit Short to Ground; Luggage Compartment Lid Release Output Circuit Open
General Electrical Failures: short to ground or open [0x06]
B3265
Raw code: B265
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Trunk release output circuit malfunction; Luggage Compartment Lid Release Output Circuit Short to Battery; Luggage Compartment Lid Opening Circuit Short to Ground; Luggage Compartment Lid Release Output Circuit Open
General Electrical Failures: short to ground or open [0x06]
B3950
Raw code: B950
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Left Rear Turn Signal Circuit Short to Ground; Left Rear Turn Signal Circuit Open; Left Rear Indicator Circuit Short to Battery
General Electrical Failures: short to battery or open [0x05]
B3950
Raw code: B950
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC, Test not passed since current power up
Chevrolet: Left Rear Turn Signal Circuit Short to Ground; Left Rear Turn Signal Circuit Open; Left Rear Indicator Circuit Short to Battery
General Electrical Failures: short to battery or open [0x05]
C0277
Raw code: 4277
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Brake Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Low Voltage/Open; Brake Pedal Position Sensor Circuit High Voltage; Brake Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Too Fast Transitions; Brake Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Calibration Not Learned
General Electrical Failures: short to ground or open [0x06]
U2108
Raw code: E108
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: CAN data bus, ABS system - no communication
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
U2109
Raw code: E109
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Lost communications with Powertrain Multiple Control System
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
U2111
Raw code: E111
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Lost communications with Steering Control System
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
U2116
Raw code: E116
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Lost communications with Driver Information & Displays Control (IPC) System
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
U2122
Raw code: E122
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Lost communications with Entertainment/Audio Control (Radio) System
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
U2137
Raw code: E137
ECU: EHU (Entertainment Head Unit)
Status: DTC supported by calibration, History DTC
Chevrolet: Lost communications with Security Control (VTD) System
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
 

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K, lots of stuff like that.... mayfind a common connection that has failed
 

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2006 Chevrolet Malibu LT 3.5L 173,xxx mi
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Aside from the connectors at the Body Control Module, what other common connectors are there?
 

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Maybe there power module or whatever its called where the relays under the hood are plugged into....it has had wonky connections for some. Also check out the shared body grounds , etc. Make sure no corrosion in on the connections with any big guage power wires,etc
 

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2006 Chevrolet Malibu LT 3.5L 173,xxx mi
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Okay popped the battery ground cable again, and started doing the in / out thing with the Power Control Module / ECU connectors and holy smokes are they in there tight.

I managed to the the connector closest to the radiator off and run in / out a couple of times, tried pulling the middle connector and it wiggles out about 1/4" but that is about as far as I can budge it for now. Partially because I can't really get my big old hands on it very well. And I lsot my light for the day. I figure when I get after it tomorrow, I am going to pull the left connector and try to swing it out of the way so I can get to the middle connector, swing that out of the way, and then go after the right connector / closest tot he fender...

Mind you, I really like this car, but right now, with this issue, it is making it a LOT harder to appreciate its qualities....
 

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2006 Chevrolet Malibu LT 3.5L 173,xxx mi
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Okay I have spent the last HOUR wiggling and wriggling the connectors free. I was getting overheated (97 deg F outside right now) so I came back in to get cooled off. Yeah brilliant idea for the guy that doesn't handle heat well to live in Texas I know...

Anyway the middle connector was VERY difficult to get loose from the PCM. I am thinking run each connector in / out at least 24x, blow out the connector sockets with compressed air, and apply the dielectric lubricant into the connector holes via brush, then clean the common surface using paper towels and alcohol wipes, hoping that does the trick.

Sadly I do not have brushes. So I ordered a new bag of flux / acid brushes as I use them for spreading wood glue in my workshop and needed them anyway...Hopefully prime Delivery ends up being 1 day...
 

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2006 Chevrolet Malibu LT 3.5L 173,xxx mi
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
So I dug up brushes, but forgot to charge the battery well after the last test run. I did the run in / out of the conectors, blew it out with compressed air, and they finally fit like electrical components are supposed to so I am thinking progress has been made. Got the car running, and forgot to probe the battery with it running. Ooops...

I was concentrating on codes.

The results of the scan were aside from the VIN being pulled this time, identical to the prior scan from yesterday.. It occurred to me that the error codes would be held in history, so I went ahead and cleared the codes, and a quick rescan shows only the hood open warning. Not shocking... HOWEVER, I am NOT in the clear yet, just because they codes don't show up, there is a big YET to place there...

So now I am am needing to have the battery charge fully, get back out there with the multimeter, and crank it up again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Okay testing done. Codes not coming back, BUT... alternator still not charging. My Haynes manual arrived today and shows that the car is indeed equipped with a fusible link.

Found this video on testing the fusible link,

Now on the fuse box (underhood) for this car, I am unsure what the "plate" is.... However I test against the posts, and there is a couple of bolts that connect to what is marked littlefuse so I assume some sort of bolt in fuse? ANyway no resistance anywhere between the B post and any of those test points....

The question I have then is, where do I get the fusible link...?
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
I haven't lifted the car up yet, but reaching around to the solenoid, which takes some doing for my fat hands.... and the cable coming off of hte alternator, which at that end should if my Haynes manual is right, and that can be a crap shoot, but it SHOULD be a fusible link...

And the wire itself is, well... crusty at best.

I REALLY don't want to try soldering that big old wire on the vehicle, so I spent WAY too much time unwinding electrical tape and crumbling split loom, undoing the harness to get back to the starter. I ran out of light with about 16" left to go... Yay!

Tomorrow is another day,and the tropics are heating up. I am hoping I can get this thing sorted before I have to run for my life!
 

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Well sounds like your onto it. I am not 100 %on this but I think you can supliment the fuseabpe link for a wire with a fuse. I forget what the fuseable link was supposed to fail at. I think someone posted it on here a while ago

Defeniately don't half ass it ....whatever way you go. If its just not able to be done by you .....bite the bullit take'r in
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
So sorry about the multiday sidetrack. My wife does NOT want me outside working in the heat of the day, and I don't want me working on the car in the dark... so I had to wait for the temp to come down a bit... Got the alternator cable traced all the way from the alternator to the starter, broke it out of the split loom except for the last junction where they just taped it too dang well... Working on that still... But I can finally get a clear view of the fusible link, and with 100% certainty the fusible link is one seriously crispy critter.

I am trying CAREFULLY to remove the remainder of the cable without damaging the rest of the wiring harness, and will be wrapping the loom back up with ample quantities of electrical tape and zip ties.

Now if I understand it correctly, the alternator output is 115 amps, and fusible link should hold that output, since I can't find a 115 amp rated fusible link, doing the research says 10ga holds 60 amps, so 2 10 ga fusible links in parallel should hold 120 amps I believe.

From what I can see, it looks like cable end, about a foot of cable, maybe 4" of fusible link wire, and then cable again, solder joints and heat shrink making the middle.

My plan of attack here is thus...

#1. Carefully get the cable all the way out of the car, and give it a thorough clean down / degreasing with alcohol wipes.
#2. Validate where the fusible link starrts / stops. Trim out bad fusible link wire.
#4. Size the new fusible links, make needed solder joints protected with heat shrink tubing, using heat gun shrink said tubing.
#5. Test for continuity.
#6. Reinstall.
#7. Tie up harness with zip ties and electrical tape. No loose wires!
#8. Test alternator function.

Since the majority of errors I was seeing were "Generatl Electrical Failure" I have to assume low voltages due to lack of alternator power is a leading issue there. But test...

Once we are past that, pressure test the cooling system. I suspect I have something not quite right after I swapped out the water pump and hoses... Fix any leaks.

Lastly, once everything is happy, hit it with a copious amount of Foamy Engine Brite, again... It would appear I have an oil leak. Most likely valve cover at the front of the car, so right bank facing the engine head on... Yay me!
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
Well sounds like your onto it. I am not 100 %on this but I think you can supliment the fuseabpe link for a wire with a fuse. I forget what the fuseable link was supposed to fail at. I think someone posted it on here a while ago

Defeniately don't half ass it ....whatever way you go. If its just not able to be done by you .....bite the bullit take'r in
I'd be good with a relay configuration, but fuse? At 115 amp fuse? That would have to be huge. No thanks... Mind you, I took auto shop all 4 years in high school, and graduated with an A.S. in Auto Diesel Technology from tech school, but that was when carburetors were on almost every production car on the planet,and Chrysler was shipping cars with "Lean Burn". Computerized systems existed, but were far less complex, and not quite as common... The typical cars I worked on were 1970s era Amierican and Japanese cars... A career in IT makes my auto repair brain crusty...

Totally agree on doing it right. Honestly if AC Delco still had an available cable complete with fusible links, I would go that way. Just buy the right one and drop it in place... Sadly no part number. And yeah I looked it up...
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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It's good to see you found the issue.

Check with your local auto parts store and/or Rock Auto for the right fusible link.
 

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Sometimes we have to bite the bullet and go to a dealer for a odd ball part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Well crusty and swollen or not. I finally got the alternator cable out of the car, and the fusible link LOOKS nasty, but apparently where I was testing was NOT the right cable, I am getting .4ohm across the the entire cable assembly, which given the amount of gunk on the connectors is to be expected.

Planning on cleaning up the ends, replace the fusible link for good measure, but on to the next possibility. Tracing back the wire from clip on connector back to wherever it connects, I suspect it goes to the ECU...

At his point, we are dealing with a very much pain in the butt, however I am NOT going to let this stupid thing beat me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Okay update here. Fusible link done, traced back trigger wire for voltage regulator, and found it does indeed go back to the ECU, wire does have conductivity with no issues. The old connector at the alternator end was slightly melty / deformed which is why I replaced it. Checked out the ECU at the connector the alternator plugs into the ECU there is a whiff of ozone. Given this, and the large number of codes I ordered a replacement ECU.

Swapped ECU, screwed everything back together where it goes, spent a considerable amount of time with degreasing things, wiping it all down to get the layers of crud off of the starter, and harness. Looks like I need to do a valve cover gasket.... Anyway moving on...

So de-gunked, I cleaned the terminals of any and all corrosion so we have good solid connections. And everything is bolted back together with the exception of the battery hold down clamp, and the engine cover and battery cover trim pieces.

The new ECU is installed, battery is charged up 100%, and I am reviewing the Anti Theft Password Relearn procedure from the doucmentation that was included with the new ECU from Flashmasters. The process should take some time, and I do not want to just sit out in the car waiting in the heat of the day for the procedure. So planning on doing that this evening.

Is there anything I need to look out for as far as this job is concerned?

I know from the documentation I need to pay someone else to do the Crankshaft variation relearn procedure as it needs to be done with a professional scan / programming tool... Yay fun.

What else do I have to look for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
A little update. Did the ECU security / key relearn procedure, and started the car up. It ran like absolute s#$t for the first 30 seconds or so, then smoothed out leaving a big plume of smoke out of the tailpipe. I am figuring just been sitting long enough to not be a happy camper.

Let it run for about 10 minutes as that seemed to be the it was gonna croak time, tested the alternator. 14.5v output, temp gauge reading in the happy range, and smooth as butter. Tapped the throttle a few times and it actually responded quicker than I recall.

It wasn't throwing codes that I was being notified about previously, but I suspect the ECU has been working on dying for a while.

Going to do an oil change on it, and assuming nothing creeps up suddenly again, we are DONE, back to the regularly scheduled program. May end up R&Ring the BCM as well as I am having issues iwth the locking system, and trunk release, may be related, and heck, at the price of a replacement, why not be certain?

Will keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Okay I am left with sub optimal running, and one code. MAP sensor. Looking at the physical condition of the sensor itself, I suspect that the code is flat out right as it looks cracked and crusty, and potentially has a leaky grommet. Cheap enough, ordered one from Amazon. Tropical storm headed my way before it will arrive though, car runs well enough to GTFO if I need to, so not worried there...

Oh, and since the ECU was replaced, trunk opens now...
 

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Definitely outta my relm of knowledge. ... hoping you get'r dialed in
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Yeah, I think I am almost done. It runs and drives, runs out okay, but the MAP sensor is definately on the must do list, along with there is a bit of a, hmm. not sure how to describe it. Hard shifting. this did not occur prior to swapping out the ECU so not really sure what is going on here. Need to get the car to a level surface, get it in the air and check the fluid level. I would like to meet the engineer and manager that decided omitting the transmission dipstick from these cars was a good idea, and beat the holly living snot out of them.

Engineering schools should emphasize the same thing that programming courses do...

Always design a thing in such a manner as if the person who has to maintain it after you is a a potentially homicidal maniac with your home address.

If that happened, we would have much better cars being built...
 
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