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Hi everyone my names is James but i go by Jay, either one is fine , I own a 2010 Chevy Malibu LT 3.6 VVT , I've named it Bing Bing , because it always beeps at me and honks at me when I unlock it. I know it may seem like a huge waste of money to do a car like this, so that's why I'm doing it. In a short its to stand out and be different.
I'm also doing a lot of work my self to help everyone in my general area because no one at all seems to want to work on one of these, so whatever I learn along the way I'm happy to share, I've already blown the first factory engine :,/ that ended up costing more than the car itself but hey its working now so that's all that matters I guess.
So far all I have done is a straight pipe from the cats back ( dual to single exit conversion ) K&N performance air filter , Duralast Throttle body and I'm putting in a new Radiator soon.
I run it on 89 when I can afford it so 90% of the time I'm riding on 89. Now what blew my first engine was running 93 on low oil , so don't do that , the cars aluminum block can not handle the combustion heat from 93 and it ultimately fused my pistons to the engine block wall :/
So I mean I know what it can handle before it goes pop , in theory anyways.
I'm not 100% on how much horsepower is there but we have definitely added some
I mean originally I got it to pull in first gear and it would slide ( Semi-burnout) but only in first gear
I slapped on a filter and it will do a heavy pull for the first two gears which is actually what i wanted
if you plan on doing work to your Malibu, newcomers advice , there's 0 after market parts any mods you want to do will should be upgrading old rusted ones and
weight reduction. you cant really add much however i have seen someone turbo it before soo if I dive deep enough into this car hopefully well get there.
Here's my theoretical build list for the car
Project MALIBU
⚫Straight pipe- ( cat back) (single Dual exit conversion)
(resonator and muffler delete)
⚫Duralast Throttle Body ✓
⚫K&N Performance Air Filter ✓




Goal: 270-275Hp
--------------------------------
Brake kit, ⚫ Carbon fiber parts ⚫
Coil overs⚫ Performance tires ⚫
Body kit⚫ silicone hoses⚫
Racing pedals⚫ tune⚫
Aftermarket wheels⚫ Auxiliary gauge⚫
Subwoofer⚫ Spoilers⚫
suspension⚫, Headers ⚫
Racing seats⚫ radiator upgrade⚫(not installed) Sway bars? Control Arms?
Performance intake manifold ✓
Performance Air filter✓, Steering wheel ⚫
Audio System⚫
Camshaft Upgrade< fuel injectors⚫
Steel braided brake lines⚫


I will be updating this as I complete the list feel free to as any questions
I'm also very open to possibilities and new ideas so feel free to hmu
hopefully I can get some pics in here
If you want to see more I'm always active on Instagram @_whosjay3 ( Login • Instagram )
i should mention I'm a filthy weeb but Ijust appreciate the thighs :3

Automotive parking light Wheel Automotive side marker light Automotive side-view mirror Vehicle
Grey Rectangle Road surface Asphalt Gas
Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Asphalt Headlamp
Textile Sleeve Automotive design Vehicle Window


Engine bay post coming after this
 

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2017 SS Sedan 6.2L
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I run it on 89 when I can afford it so 90% of the time I'm riding on 89. Now what blew my first engine was running 93 on low oil , so don't do that , the cars aluminum block can not handle the combustion heat from 93 and it ultimately fused my pistons to the engine block wall :/
So I mean I know what it can handle before it goes pop , in theory anyways.
I'm not 100% on how much horsepower is there but we have definitely added some
I mean originally I got it to pull in first gear and it would slide ( Semi-burnout) but only in first gear
I slapped on a filter and it will do a heavy pull for the first two gears which is actually what i wanted
What you said about 93 octane is not true at all. You blew the engine running low on oil, yes, but it's actually better for the car to run 93 octane than the 87 octane you use when money is tight because the computer has to pull spark timing to run regular gas. You can run premium in any modern car and not hurt it (excluding diesel engines).

Your dirt breather (the K&N oiled panel filter) did not make your car noticeably faster. I tried one for a while before I learned more about K&N and oiled filters, put a factory-style filter back in asap.

Why are you swapping out the factory throttle body and radiator?

Lastly, a turbocharger will blow the transmission apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What you said about 93 octane is not true at all. You blew the engine running low on oil, yes, but it's actually better for the car to run 93 octane than the 87 octane you use when money is tight because the computer has to pull spark timing to run regular gas. You can run premium in any modern car and not hurt it (excluding diesel engines).

Your dirt breather (the K&N oiled panel filter) did not make your car noticeably faster. I tried one for a while before I learned more about K&N and oiled filters, put a factory-style filter back in asap.

Why are you swapping out the factory throttle body and radiator?

Lastly, a turbocharger will blow the transmission apart.
shrug I don't care to test the 93 again at all I mean like down to bone dry no oil with no check engine or check oil light for the whole time. I'm not at all saying the gas was the cause , I'm just saying it beats up the block a little extra with the added power and it definitely isn't good foor a non oiled engine lol , and when using 93 I ONLY use Shell brand V- Plus Nitro, idk if brand makes a difference but I'm sticking to 89.
As far as the air filter , it seems fine for now I'm not to wise on the oiled panel and what not but I will look into it. I'm not saying it added any horsepower its just a bonus if it does
but for the feeling of how it pulls now is much better than factory. I simply traded this throttle body and filter upgrade off for a K&N cold intake for a Pontiac G6 intake system and I feel like its a smart move ( instead of worry about parts not fitting and rewiring if needed ).
The car it self is about 10 years old now so most parts are old and starting to show it. My Radiator fins are bent and even in one of the lower bars that holds the fins is curving upwards its rusted old and dirty and from blowing the first engine I feel like this engine appreciates a lot of air ( as does any engine) with an even amount of oil and somewhere to put the farts.
and even if the turbo is meant for like +2hp in boost lol would it still blow if so what about a supercharger then?
thanks for reaching out - Jay
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What you said about 93 octane is not true at all. You blew the engine running low on oil, yes, but it's actually better for the car to run 93 octane than the 87 octane you use when money is tight because the computer has to pull spark timing to run regular gas. You can run premium in any modern car and not hurt it (excluding diesel engines).

Your dirt breather (the K&N oiled panel filter) did not make your car noticeably faster. I tried one for a while before I learned more about K&N and oiled filters, put a factory-style filter back in asap.

Why are you swapping out the factory throttle body and radiator?

Lastly, a turbocharger will blow the transmission apart.
oh and im also wondering if i should complete the straight pipe and delete both cats or just one and if it would affect the car in a negative way at all
 

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shrug I don't care to test the 93 again at all I mean like down to bone dry no oil with no check engine or check oil light for the whole time. I'm not at all saying the gas was the cause , I'm just saying it beats up the block a little extra with the added power and it definitely isn't good foor a non oiled engine lol , and when using 93 I ONLY use Shell brand V- Plus Nitro, idk if brand makes a difference but I'm sticking to 89.
As far as the air filter , it seems fine for now I'm not to wise on the oiled panel and what not but I will look into it. I'm not saying it added any horsepower its just a bonus if it does
but for the feeling of how it pulls now is much better than factory. I simply traded this throttle body and filter upgrade off for a K&N cold intake for a Pontiac G6 intake system and I feel like its a smart move ( instead of worry about parts not fitting and rewiring if needed ).
The car it self is about 10 years old now so most parts are old and starting to show it. My Radiator fins are bent and even in one of the lower bars that holds the fins is curving upwards its rusted old and dirty and from blowing the first engine I feel like this engine appreciates a lot of air ( as does any engine) with an even amount of oil and somewhere to put the farts.
and even if the turbo is meant for like +2hp in boost lol would it still blow if so what about a supercharger then?
thanks for reaching out - Jay
Again, what you're saying about octane is flat out incorrect, 93 octane does not beat up an engine in any way. Using octane below the recommended minimum can "beat up" an engine with spark knock, but premium wont hurt anything.

K&N oiled panel filters do not filter fine particles anywhere near as well as factory cotton filters and dirty oil from the panel frequently gunks up your MAF sensor and puts vehicles in limp mode. Poor filtration is bad for your engine's moving parts over time. No daily driver car should have an oiled filter in it.

I didn't really follow what you said about your throttle body and a pontiac G6 intake, sorry.

The 6-speed automatic (6T70) is not designed to handle a lot of power. If you put a turbocharger or supercharger on the 3.6L V6, it will tear the transmission apart. There's no such thing as a 2 horsepower turbo kit. Lmao.

As for your exhaust, leave the cats alone. It's illegal for emissions tests and it will throw fault codes.
 
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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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I added this video to your other thread before coming here, but this is the better place for it.


You seem set on trying to believe someone else (or your own thinking) that higher octane will beat up an engine. Wrong. Period. I have driven 3 models with the 3.6L since December of 2008. The first was a 2009 2LT in the same color as your BGM, then a 2011 LTZ in RJT (red jewel metallic), and then this 2011 LTZ in RJT as a replacement for the other one that was taken by a flood.

I kept scrupulous spreadsheet data starting with my 2009. I can show data that proves that 89 is the best octane to run in these engines. 87 pulls power because the ECM detects knock (which is what REALLY beats up an engine), and 93 adds no discernible mileage or power so it just costs more per mile.

93 octane had absolutely nothing to do with your engine dying. What probably happened was that you were getting frisky with it like I used to do, and running at high RPMs frequently can start to run the clock backwards on its expected lifespan. Couple that with long right-hand corners to get onto and off of freeways and the windage pulls the oil away from the pickup tube, starving the engine of its needed lubrication. That is what I believe probably killed my engine at 94,ooo miles. On top of all that, you've shared that yours was low on oil to start with, so that was its death knell. Not octane.

I see a bit of an issue with your statements as well. You want to boost the HP, and yet you don't want 93 to beat it up from too much power. Which is it?

To add a turbo to an NA (naturally aspirated) engine, you'll need a completely new ECM to handle it, and there were none from GM. You'll be on your own when the MAP goes from below 1 atmosphere of pressure to above. I have a 2001 Nissan Xterra that offered the 3.3L V6 with and without a super-charger. The ECMs are not interchangeable, so that is where I get my comments from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Again, what you're saying about octane is flat out incorrect, 93 octane does not beat up an engine in any way. Using octane below the recommended minimum can "beat up" an engine with spark knock, but premium wont hurt anything.

K&N oiled panel filters do not filter fine particles anywhere near as well as factory cotton filters and dirty oil from the panel frequently gunks up your MAF sensor and puts vehicles in limp mode. Poor filtration is bad for your engine's moving parts over time. No daily driver car should have an oiled filter in it.

I didn't really follow what you said about your throttle body and a pontiac G6 intake, sorry.

The 6-speed automatic (6T70) is not designed to handle a lot of power. If you put a turbocharger or supercharger on the 3.6L V6, it will tear the transmission apart. There's no such thing as a 2 horsepower turbo kit. Lmao.

As for your exhaust, leave the cats alone. It's illegal for emissions tests and it will throw fault codes.
Oh well I have no way of testing gas but I will take your word for it ( not that what you've stated isn't factual because it is ) well aware of how limited this poor transmission is :(
as far as like the air filter if i can find a cotton filter that's as tin as the K&N i will happily swap it out ( but i also don't mind cleaning it every time i need to start my car )
and the turbo wouldn't be for boost but for noise and seeing that its kind of counterintuitive its like what's the point lol but thank you so much for your help you have cleared a lot of my worries and myths I've had for some time now.
and per say i wanted to go faster >3> what would be required? at this point I'm only bringing up tires ( for grip) and weight reduction
the goals to have a head turning fun reliable daily driver that can do 0-60 in 6s( if it needs too)
im also just considering buying a completely different car for all of this xD
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Instead of throwing all this money on a family sedan you should go out and buy a Camaro or mustang.;)
I considered that half way through my build so i may stop building after a new suspension and tint :/ I only have like 1200 so I'm tryna find something less or equal too preferably a Honda or Nissan but ill take what i can get my hands on, any recommendations for cars in that price range?
 

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I added this video to your other thread before coming here, but this is the better place for it.


You seem set on trying to believe someone else (or your own thinking) that higher octane will beat up an engine. Wrong. Period. I have driven 3 models with the 3.6L since December of 2008. The first was a 2009 2LT in the same color as your BGM, then a 2011 LTZ in RJT (red jewel metallic), and then this 2011 LTZ in RJT as a replacement for the other one that was taken by a flood.

I kept scrupulous spreadsheet data starting with my 2009. I can show data that proves that 89 is the best octane to run in these engines. 87 pulls power because the ECM detects knock (which is what REALLY beats up an engine), and 93 adds no discernible mileage or power so it just costs more per mile.

93 octane had absolutely nothing to do with your engine dying. What probably happened was that you were getting frisky with it like I used to do, and running at high RPMs frequently can start to run the clock backwards on its expected lifespan. Couple that with long right-hand corners to get onto and off of freeways and the windage pulls the oil away from the pickup tube, starving the engine of its needed lubrication. That is what I believe probably killed my engine at 94,ooo miles. On top of all that, you've shared that yours was low on oil to start with, so that was its death knell. Not octane.

I see a bit of an issue with your statements as well. You want to boost the HP, and yet you don't want 93 to beat it up from too much power. Which is it?

To add a turbo to an NA (naturally aspirated) engine, you'll need a completely new ECM to handle it, and there were none from GM. You'll be on your own when the MAP goes from below 1 atmosphere of pressure to above. I have a 2001 Nissan Xterra that offered the 3.3L V6 with and without a super-charger. The ECMs are not interchangeable, so that is where I get my comments from.
After being corrected several times , I'm sure 93 is fine for the car and all but I'm okay with 89 , seeing that 93 is just expensive and adds no power.
and the turbo idea would be for noise but I'm not sure if that's possible. seeing that the ecm is stuck I guess id be better of with a performance tune. thanks for reaching out- Jay
 

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Oh well I have no way of testing gas but I will take your word for it ( not that what you've stated isn't factual because it is ) well aware of how limited this poor transmission is :(
as far as like the air filter if i can find a cotton filter that's as tin as the K&N i will happily swap it out ( but i also don't mind cleaning it every time i need to start my car )
and the turbo wouldn't be for boost but for noise and seeing that its kind of counterintuitive its like what's the point lol but thank you so much for your help you have cleared a lot of my worries and myths I've had for some time now.
and per say i wanted to go faster >3> what would be required? at this point I'm only bringing up tires ( for grip) and weight reduction
the goals to have a head turning fun reliable daily driver that can do 0-60 in 6s( if it needs too)
im also just considering buying a completely different car for all of this xD
I'm not sure you quite understand how a turbocharger system works. It costs thousands of dollars and cannot be installed just for noise. It's a huge project to take on that has to be built into the exhaust, routed through an intercooler and completely redesign the intake. Then it needs a full engine calibration from scratch.

Anyway, before I upgraded to my Chevy SS (an imported Holden Commodore SSV), my 2009 Chevy Malibu would run a 14.3 quarter mile at 98 mph, which translates to a 0-60 of around 5.7 seconds.

I had a custom intake that I put together with a dry performance filter and a tune that I wrote myself with HPTuners. I also had a GM Performance strut tower brace and good michelin tires for handling and ride improvements. No weight reduction or exhaust mods.

My intake thread:
 
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And I'm running his tune on my current ride. Even on a humid night above 80°F at the track, I was running in the 14's as well. Shout out to @cp-the-nerd!
 

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In my opinion, I try and ensure any modifications I make to my 'Bu 'fit the spirit of the car'. Like @Malo83 mentioned, it's a family sedan. That's not to say you can't do a lot of work to it! I've made plenty of quality of life modifications to mine, and make sure it is in immaculate condition, both mechanically and cosmetically.
But at the end of the day, you can't get too carried away with it, because otherwise you are in conflict with the spirit of the car, which in this case is a grocery-getter. And that conflict can come with any car, even Chevy's crowning vehicle, the Corvette. Bladed Angel actually has a good reflective video on that topic with his own vehicle.
Modding a car is cool, don't get me wrong. But I would definitely focus on saving your money and getting a different platform to begin a new adventure with. If in the meanwhile you want to scratch the modding itch on a budget, I'd keep an eye on local junkyards for some LTZ models and pull some parts from those. I know on mine, I drove about 3 hours there and back to get leather seats for mine, but totally worth it. (I've got a whole writeup on my profile of all the work I've done on mine so far if you were curious.)
That's where my head is at. It's a great vehicle to dump money into, but it feels like you might be working against the spirit of the car on this one...
 

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That Corvette guy is insane. He's upset with the entire city of Atlanta because a single car t-boned his Mustang.

But to keep this thread on topic, I think @Goaliescottie has hit the nail on the head. Homerun!
 
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