[Ashwesley]

Hello! this may be a lengthy post, but I need help and only want to explain in detail, so hopefully someone may know what I need to do.
I have a 2013 chevy Malibu LT Eco with a 2.4 L engine. I'm unsure if my sound system is stock or not but I pulled my amp out (I've done a lot of YouTubing and I'm thinking I need to replace the amp) and the amp is LG model: TC95AAJU and the speakers inside the car are pioneer.

Anyway, lets get to my problem. absolutely no sound is coming out of my speakers, no music, no blinker sounds for turning signals, no chimes when I press buttons on the radio, nothing. The radio itself has power, but no sounds.

This problem first started with a cutting in and out of no sound, I would be listening to music and out of nowhere it cut out, even the chimes when I press the screen, and blinkers made no sound, very irritating. I dealt with that cutting in and out for 6 months, then it just kinda stopped cutting in and out and usually worked, for about 2 months. Then one day I got in my car and tried to listen to music and it was just static really bad, even when I turned the volume down, and the radio off (this happened about 2 weeks ago). Eventually the static ceased, and there was no sound at all.

since then, every time I got in my car id turn the volume up, hoping id have sound, still no sound out of the speakers, but id hear a thump in my trunk, as if I were playing music and the bass was thumping.

but now I don't even get that thump in the trunk, its completely quiet in my car, very awkward lol.

My grandpa and I removed the driver door panel and removed the speaker and took it in the garage and he took some red wire, and connected one end to the speaker, and connected the other end to his stereo he has in his garage and SOUND CAME OUT OF THE SPEAKER!

Soooo...... what's going on? do I need to remove all the speakers and check them that way to ensure the speakers aren't blown, then go from there? if I do check them all that way, and none of them are blown, what do I need to do? My uncle said it's not a fuse since the radio screen is working, I still checked that fuse and its fine. I honestly can't afford to just replace multiple things and hoping I get a fix out of one of the replacements, and can't afford to take it to someone to get checked, when I could hopefully/ probably fix it myself.

sorry for such a long post, I just want you to know EVERYTHING, so hopefully one of you experts can say "oh its this, do this and this and it should be fixed"

I love listening to music in my car, when it was working it sounded GREAT, someone please help

 

[DrivenDaily]

You may want to see if you can externally add an input to one or more channels of the amp to see if it will generate sounds. That way, you'll be able to determine if the fault lies between that connection and the speakers (amp or wiring), or between that connection and the HU (head unit or wiring).

Do you live where you might have had rodents chewing wires?

 

[Ashwesley]

You may want to see if you can externally add an input to one or more channels of the amp to see if it will generate sounds. That way, you'll be able to determine if the fault lies between that connection and the speakers (amp or wiring), or between that connection and the HU (head unit or wiring).

Do you live where you might have had rodents chewing wires?

I lived in an apartment complex that definitely wasn’t the best but I never had a rodent problem indoors 🤷🏼‍♀️ I guess it could be possible. I don’t know much about cars or anything to do with them but I can learn pretty quickly. How would I go about doing that? My uncle used to be good at this type of stuff but says it’s been so long since he’s messed with any of it he doesn’t have any idea what to do and hasn’t really seemed like he wants to help me. So I’m on my own. This is the amp I think, it was in my trunk. I’ve seen posts where people say to use a multimeter to test the ground and all that but then again my uncles also saying that it’s dangerous to mess with the boards inside here, he wants me to just find a new amp, and they run anywhere from used ($40) to new from GM($300). Where my fingers are pointing, is where it had plug ins. Nothing was in j3.

 

[DrivenDaily]

I'm not sure that's the amp. It has an antenna jack, but I can't tell if it's an AM/FM, SXM, or OnStar. Also, the "output" says 0.6W for the Transmitter, so it's not an amp.

 

[Ashwesley]

I'm not sure that's the amp. It has an antenna jack, but I can't tell if it's an AM/FM, SXM, or OnStar. Also, the "output" says 0.6W for the Transmitter, so it's not an amp.

Well yikes, okay so do you know where I can find the amp? I’m sorry I need so much help but no one else will 😅

 

[DrivenDaily]

I'm not sure it has one. If it doesn't have the Bose name somewhere (front door speakers, etc.) then it has been my understanding that the amp is in the HU. With the Bose, the amp is in the trunk.

My 2011 LTZ has the Bose and the amp is directly in front of the right taillight, attached to a plate next to the quarter panel. If yours has an amp, it might be there or under the package tray but still inside the trunk. It should not have any antenna jacks on it, either.

 

[Ashwesley]

I'm not sure it has one. If it doesn't have the Bose name somewhere (front door speakers, etc.) then it has been my understanding that the amp is in the HU. With the Bose, the amp is in the trunk.

My 2011 LTZ has the Bose and the amp is directly in front of the right taillight, attached to a plate next to the quarter panel. If yours has an amp, it might be there or under the package tray but still inside the trunk. It should not have any antenna jacks on it, either.

Okay is the head unit located behind my radio? Or in the radio? I seen a video of a guy installing a new sound system just so I could try and see if there was an amp behind the radio but there wasn’t anything “behind” it that I could tell. I’m gonna go check my trunk and look near the headlight like you said yours has and see if I can find anything.

 

[Leon Bruce]

Almost exactly my issue! I was just about to make a post for myself about it.
Only difference is I have a 2.5L and my screen is black.
Good luck!
Following

 

[Ashwesley]

I'm not sure it has one. If it doesn't have the Bose name somewhere (front door speakers, etc.) then it has been my understanding that the amp is in the HU. With the Bose, the amp is in the trunk.

My 2011 LTZ has the Bose and the amp is directly in front of the right taillight, attached to a plate next to the quarter panel. If yours has an amp, it might be there or under the package tray but still inside the trunk. It should not have any antenna jacks on it, either.

Okay so I’m in my trunk and I think I found what you’re talking about, Looks like there is no antenna Jack’s just three plugs at the top

 

[DrivenDaily]

That larger one looks like it.

The HU is the radio.

 

[Ashwesley]

That larger one looks like it.

The HU is the radio.

Okay so I need to remove this from the trunk and how do I do the testing you spoke of at first?

 

[DrivenDaily]

You leave the amp in place.

If you have a meter capable of measuring very low voltages (most do), then you need to turn on the HU and check the amp for any inputs that are changing in value. This should indicate that the HU is outputting a signal. Do this by using a pin to probe into the plug while it's plugged into the amp. If you can't find any inputs that are rising and falling, then the HU needs to be checked itself.

 

[Ashwesley]

You leave the amp in place.

If you have a meter capable of measuring very low voltages (most do), then you need to turn on the HU and check the amp for any inputs that are changing in value. This should indicate that the HU is outputting a signal. Do this by using a pin to probe into the plug while it's plugged into the amp. If you can't find any inputs that are rising and falling, then the HU needs to be checked itself.

Is the meter you’re talking about a multimeter? I’ve seen some videos where they said to use one, does it, does it matter which plug i pin in the amp?

 

[DrivenDaily]

Yes. Yes.

You have to use the meter to gather information. If one wire has no signal, test more of them. It might be good to have a small table or array that you can write the results in based on which wire you're testing, then test every wire.

 

[Ashwesley]

Yes. Yes.

You have to use the meter to gather information. If one wire has no signal, test more of them. It might be good to have a small table or array that you can write the results in based on which wire you're testing, then test every wire.

Okay thank you so much so I’m testing the wires that are going into the plastic piece for the plug? Do I just take the pin and stick it where the wire is or do I cut the wires off the plastic piece and check them, then reconnect it to the plastic ?

 

[DrivenDaily]

Okay thank you so much so I’m testing the wires that are going into the plastic piece for the plug? Do I just take the pin and stick it where the wire is or do I cut the wires off the plastic piece and check them, then reconnect it to the plastic ?

You leave the amp in place.

If you have a meter capable of measuring very low voltages (most do), then you need to turn on the HU and check the amp for any inputs that are changing in value. This should indicate that the HU is outputting a signal. Do this by using a pin to probe into the plug while it's plugged into the amp. If you can't find any inputs that are rising and falling, then the HU needs to be checked itself.

Don't cut any wires or strip them.

You're using the pin because it's small enough to reach into the plug and touch the metal while it's still plugged in and functioning. The meter lead is attached to the pin.

If you're still not sure about this, get a friend or family member to help guide you in the use of a meter. You might also find YouTube videos to help.

 

[FieroGT]

By process of elimination, it is not the speakers. The speaker simply takes DC voltage and converts into sound, by displacing air as the woofer and tweeter cones move.

Then amplifier only does as its name implies, amifies the sound. For example, since I don't know what the RMS or peak wattage level is on the stock radios, I am going to use an example. I also don't know the ohms of resistance in the speakers. The higher the ohms of resistance, the lower the speaker wattage operates at.

When you hook up an amplifier, to a receiver, you can turn the receiver's wattage into the amplifier's wattage level. Wattage level directly affects volume. Higher the wattages, the louder the volume in decibels.

According to your post, you disconnected the amplifier, and the sound still worked for a short time, then went intermittently in and out, to completely out.

By process of elimination, this rules out the amplifier.

Your problem lies in the receiver or the head unit.

GM uses 8-digit part numbers, NOT the Pioneer or Bose part numbers, when identifying the parts in your car, even if they contracted Pioneer or Bose to manufacture the components. They also use RPO codes for identifying parts in the car. They used to have a Service Parts Identification tag, and it was usually on the spare tire cover, or the glove box, with those RPO codes. I was unable to locate the Service Parts Identification tag, which would include the VIN, on the "usual" locations of my 2015 Malibu.

I recommend having a reputable GM dealership look at the car, and see if they can find the problem. Calling them and providing your VIN will give them access to see if your vehicle has ever received service at a GM dealer in the past, and why. It will also provide the the Trim level of your Malibu, and should give them access to the RPO codes, to find out which radio is in your car.

Tracing wires and testing leads only does you any good, when you actually know the voltage, amperes, or ohms of resistance that you should be reading on the Digital Multimeter, versus what reading you actually have on the display. You should also only be messing with the wires, if you have an appropriate wiring diagram, so you don't run into the possibility of causing additional damage to the circuits.

 

[debbiedoo01]

Hello! this may be a lengthy post, but I need help and only want to explain in detail, so hopefully someone may know what I need to do.
I have a 2013 chevy Malibu LT Eco with a 2.4 L engine. I'm unsure if my sound system is stock or not but I pulled my amp out (I've done a lot of YouTubing and I'm thinking I need to replace the amp) and the amp is LG model: TC95AAJU and the speakers inside the car are pioneer.

Anyway, lets get to my problem. absolutely no sound is coming out of my speakers, no music, no blinker sounds for turning signals, no chimes when I press buttons on the radio, nothing. The radio itself has power, but no sounds.

This problem first started with a cutting in and out of no sound, I would be listening to music and out of nowhere it cut out, even the chimes when I press the screen, and blinkers made no sound, very irritating. I dealt with that cutting in and out for 6 months, then it just kinda stopped cutting in and out and usually worked, for about 2 months. Then one day I got in my car and tried to listen to music and it was just static really bad, even when I turned the volume down, and the radio off (this happened about 2 weeks ago). Eventually the static ceased, and there was no sound at all.

since then, every time I got in my car id turn the volume up, hoping id have sound, still no sound out of the speakers, but id hear a thump in my trunk, as if I were playing music and the bass was thumping.

but now I don't even get that thump in the trunk, its completely quiet in my car, very awkward lol.

My grandpa and I removed the driver door panel and removed the speaker and took it in the garage and he took some red wire, and connected one end to the speaker, and connected the other end to his stereo he has in his garage and SOUND CAME OUT OF THE SPEAKER!

Soooo...... what's going on? do I need to remove all the speakers and check them that way to ensure the speakers aren't blown, then go from there? if I do check them all that way, and none of them are blown, what do I need to do? My uncle said it's not a fuse since the radio screen is working, I still checked that fuse and its fine. I honestly can't afford to just replace multiple things and hoping I get a fix out of one of the replacements, and can't afford to take it to someone to get checked, when I could hopefully/ probably fix it myself.

sorry for such a long post, I just want you to know EVERYTHING, so hopefully one of you experts can say "oh its this, do this and this and it should be fixed"

I love listening to music in my car, when it was working it sounded GREAT, someone please help

Hello, I am not an expert, but I am a Malibu Premier owner. I very recently experienced the reverse of what you explained. You could not see the radio, back up camera, or phone display, but you could hear the radio. It worked, then didn’t, off and on. Towards the end, it was a crapshoot if it would work, and it finally quit altogether. It was not a fuse, which was suggested to check. Instead, it was an HMI module that was checked, removed, replaced, and reprogrammed. Unless you have an extended warranty, which I do, it is a costly endeavor, at least at a dealership. The module alone was $783.46 from the invoice. I know wiring can be a task to track down just in case that is the culprit, but this might be an option to look at also.