2013 sputtered then died

535 Views 10 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Moonwink, 11 d ago

leeklm

Discussion Starter · 30 d ago

Hello all, have owned my 2013 2.5ltr since new, now with 180k. About the only things replaced so far were water pump, both pcv, and cam position solenoids... been a good car!

Today out of the blue the engine started to sputter, feeling like it was out of gas. Car died and would not start. Checked codes with cheap universal code reader and had a p0106 and p0303. Since the 106 code pointed toward map sensor- put a new one in.

Car fired when i cranked it, thinking for a moment it was fixed! Nope, engined sputtered as it did prior, and required me to work the throttle trying to keep it running for a few seconds. Again, feels like engine is not getting fuel. Also tried new maf sensor, no change.

I am now thinking either the lift pump in fuel tank or the high pressure pump on engine. I have no related codes ,but not sure my Elcheapo reader can read them anyway.

Anyone experience similar symptoms?? On a side note, seems the car will sputter, trying to start after sitting for an hour, otherwise
Will crank over with no hint of firing.

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repairman54

· #2 · 29 d ago

The 2.5 is known to have the intake manifold bolts loosen up causing idling issues. Since you have high mileage, I would check them for tightness.
It may not set any codes for this issue also.

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leeklm

Discussion Starter · #3 · 29 d ago

Bolts were ok. Considering the engine was running smooth before abruptly surging, then dying seconds later- i am leaning towards fuel.

while engine was hot, it would crank over with no attempt to fire. Afyer sitting a while, and now overnigt, the engine will fire, sputter and surge (like it is starving for fuel). I am going to try tracking down a better code reader that will read fuel related codes.

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leeklm

Discussion Starter · #4 · 28 d ago

Well, this explains the #3 misfire.

charging bore scope to have a closer look. Fuel rail pressures are good before and after high pressure cam pump.

Is it possible the timing chain jumped and caused this piston interference? Hopefully not a dropped valve

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leeklm

Discussion Starter · #5 · 28 d ago

Well this is not good, pic of #3 piston. Just found a local replacement motor with 80k miles so that will be the route we go!

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DrivenDaily

· #6 · 28 d ago

I'm sorry to hear that this happened. I hope the next engine goes a lot farther!

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leeklm

Discussion Starter · #7 · 28 d ago

Ya know, you preach to your kids about checking oil, etc... welll sometimes theses lessons get costly!

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leeklm

Discussion Starter · #8 · 26 d ago

Starting to pull the motor, does not appear to be too bad of a job. I'm no mechanic, but pretty sure the catalytic converter did not come with an extra valve stem....

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Moonwink

· #9 · 26 d ago

I'm no expert either but I'd say that's a bad sign. That must have some sputtering!

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leeklm

Discussion Starter · #10 · 11 d ago

Quick update... pulling the 2.5ltr on this car is not too bad of a job for the DIY. There is a battery box bracket protruding from fender that would prevent the engine from coming out the top side. Buzz that bracket off with sawz all, and motor comes right out. Weld bracket back on after install. MUCH easier than dropping motor out the bottom when at home with no lift!

There was some damage to the new engine harness, so transfered the old harness over. The "new" 80k engine included transmission so left that all intact. Replaced all hoses and threw in a new alternator for good measure and all new fluids. Two of us got the job done in about 10-12 hrs total time and car runs like a champ!

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Moonwink

· #11 · 11 d ago

Thanks for coming back and letting us know you're back in business. I hope I never have to go through an engine swap but I'm glad to know it's possible without a lot of problems. May your new (to you) engine last and last!

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