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I would suggest a second opinion from a different Chevy dealer. I agree there's no way the same control module goes bad 3 times on a 5 year old car without something else causing the problem.
 
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This is the third time that I have taken my malibu to the dealership for the same problem. The "dual battery control module" keeps going out. There has to be more to this.
Is this a problem with my 2014 Malibu, I took mine to dealer, they ran diagnostics and said battery cables were loose and cleared me. Next day check iengine light came back on with same problem. How expensive is this module
 

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Is this a problem with my 2014 Malibu, I took mine to dealer, they ran diagnostics and said battery cables were loose and cleared me. Next day check iengine light came back on with same problem. How expensive is this module
I had the exact same problem with my 2014 malibu. I bought my own scanner and ran diagnostics on it and it came back with problem/fault code of P305F. I checked all battery connectors on the auxilary battery and main battery, all tight. Also checked all ground connections, all tight. I also tested the auxilary battery in the trunk, it tested good. The problem was more than likely a faulty dual battery control/isolation module. However, you can't replace the DBIM itself. It is located on the battery distribution fuse block, so the whole fuse block must be replaced. This is located at the top of the back end of the main battery. I searched on line for a new one and found several online GM parts distributors were selling it from $230 to $280. It normally retails for around $300. I was actually able to order a new one from Amazon for $196 as well as another $20 for the wiring/connector kit which you'll need. The fuse block part # is 23223079, and the wiring kit part # is 13581092. This information is off of the technical service bulletin issued by GM. Bulletin # 18-NA-367. Anyone that has ever had a problem with the check engine light coming on, I would advise to buy a automotive scanner. Very reasonably priced on Amazon and other sites. I'm not a mechanic and never work on cars, but the part was somewhat easy to replace myself. The total cost me just a little over $200. If I had taken it to the dealership, it would have cost me hundreds more. Once replaced, I used my scanner to erase the error/problem (DTC) code and turn the check engine light off. It hasn't come back on since. I would also advise purchasing some type of device now available on line that would disable the start/stop feature like I did. Most useless feature to ever be included on a vehicle. The start/stop feature can cause more expensive problems down the road.
 

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This is the third time that I have taken my malibu to the dealership for the same problem. The "dual battery control module" keeps going out. There has to be more to this.
Bypass it run a wire from positive on battery to the post by fuse box an it will start
 

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I had the exact same problem with my 2014 malibu. I bought my own scanner and ran diagnostics on it and it came back with problem/fault code of P305F. I checked all battery connectors on the auxilary battery and main battery, all tight. Also checked all ground connections, all tight. I also tested the auxilary battery in the trunk, it tested good. The problem was more than likely a faulty dual battery control/isolation module. However, you can't replace the DBIM itself. It is located on the battery distribution fuse block, so the whole fuse block must be replaced. This is located at the top of the back end of the main battery. I searched on line for a new one and found several online GM parts distributors were selling it from $230 to $280. It normally retails for around $300. I was actually able to order a new one from Amazon for $196 as well as another $20 for the wiring/connector kit which you'll need. The fuse block part # is 23223079, and the wiring kit part # is 13581092. This information is off of the technical service bulletin issued by GM. Bulletin # 18-NA-367. Anyone that has ever had a problem with the check engine light coming on, I would advise to buy a automotive scanner. Very reasonably priced on Amazon and other sites. I'm not a mechanic and never work on cars, but the part was somewhat easy to replace myself. The total cost me just a little over $200. If I had taken it to the dealership, it would have cost me hundreds more. Once replaced, I used my scanner to erase the error/problem (DTC) code and turn the check engine light off. It hasn't come back on since. I would also advise purchasing some type of device now available on line that would disable the start/stop feature like I did. Most useless feature to ever be included on a vehicle. The start/stop feature can cause more expensive problems down the road.
You could of disabled the auto start stop by unplugging the hood sensor an wouldnt of had to pay for something to bypass it
 

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Disconnecting the hood sensor will kill the remote start feature and possible hood open messages.
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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I havent had an open hood message disconnecting the hood sensor on the count of the car cant tell the hood is open... its summer who needs remote start?
Why be dismissive of those who use remote start in the summer, whether it's to run the AC or for some other reason? I have a simpler way: I just don't push the button.

Most folks don't recommend unplugging the hood latch switches so they can be warned if the hood isn't fully closed. Of course, it's gonna be rare that anyone drives around with the hood only half-closed, but there are times when it happens. And not everyone is as aware of their car as some others, so they may not notice that the hood is ajar.
 

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2016 Malibu 1LT 1.5T
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I found both of 2015 Malibu's comments bizarre and don't recommend anyone follow the advice in either. The first comment was a strange idea (with no detail at all) offered to a forum member that posted nearly 2 years ago. The other post was a "here's what you should have done" to a forum member that took time to diagnose the problem, detail and explain a proper fix, then bypass the feature with an available method that doesn't compromise safety or reliability.

Since the OP of this thread never returned in 2 years, the other poster fixed the problem months ago, I think this one can close.
 
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