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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all:smile: new to the forum. I am trying to find info for our transmissions. So I see the black cheezy plastic fill cap on the top deck.
I see a small hex plug like 3/8 inch on the bottom of the case which looks like a pressure measuring port not a drain.

So what am I missing? How would you fill it back up to the proper level? Is there a higher plug I'm missing and you fill till it comes out?

Thanks for any help. I need to do a DYI with photos for this site!
 

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Re: 2016 LTZ transmission fluid change

Your 2016 shouldn't have a fill cap for the transmission. The last model to have a cap/dipstick was the Gen7 with the 3.6L engine. (I have one, have had 2 before.) The 4-cylinder Gen7 and all Gen8 and newer models have a fill plug and a drain plug, but no cap.

While it might be a valid argument with a group of engineers, for me, having a transmission and no easy way to check the level tells me that the designers haven't had to care for their own cars before and don't realize just how important it is to someone who does.
 

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Re: 2016 LTZ transmission fluid change

Wow, that's a cap alright! I wonder if there's a dipstick/cable attached to it like mine has. I've read just about every post on here there is to read (one of the hazards of being the Admin) and was totally under the impression that there was no filler cap on anything newer than the Gen7.

Thanks for clarifying that!

Just as a comparison, here's the drain plug on my Gen7's underside. It doesn't look like a drain plug, so the first time I took it out, I wasn't sure if I was messing with an adjustment or not. Pic with finger is from online of an SUV, but it's the exact same location and size as mine. Pic with red circle is my car.

Edit: These 2 pictures are for the 6T70. Yours may or may not have this plug.
 

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I am jealous of how accessible that filler cap appears to be. I have the same transmission in my gen9 but that same cap is squeezed in tight below and between the battery and ECM. I'd need to remove the battery or find some long pliers to try and twist it off. Or maybe my wife could grab it.... anyway congrats on that at least. The plug DD showed in his pic is the same in my 6T40. It rises out a bit just like that and doesn't really look like a plug.
 

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To drain it it is the plug shown in drivendailys picture, you fill it from the cap on top and to check the level there’s a plug on the side of the driver axle.
 

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Re: 2016 LTZ transmission fluid change

I edited my post to make sure that folks know that I have the 6T70. Apparently, the 6T40 has the same plug, so that's nice to know!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Re: 2016 LTZ transmission fluid change

@ Driven Daily
Hello thanks for the response. The cheezy cap is just threaded and has no dip stick/cable. I do have the same drain plug (if they want to call it that) on the bottom.

So myself being very old lol struggles with the idea of 239.00 to service transmission at the dealer. Service being push pull 11 quarts thru the coolant lines.

Im just trying to wrap my head around how to change the fluid and give the transmission a chance to survive. I do my own oil changes so I am right there anyway to do a partial dump/fill.

So my next step is to try to find the level port.
 

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To drain it it is the plug shown in drivendailys picture, you fill it from the cap on top and to check the level there’s a plug on the side of the driver axle.
Roger that Ricky. I will get my eyes down there and find the plug.

My head hurts from reading all the crap about changing the fluid. Do it hot, do it cold, do it level, do it by measure, add extra 2 oz for good luck, do it by level side plug not running, do it by level side plug hot, keep temperature at 77 degrees, keep it at 177 degrees, make sure you press gas to floor three times and rotate key to on off on off for 3 minutes while singing God Bless America...

This is some crazy stuff for sure over replacing some fluid LOL:grin:
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Purchased 13 quarts of Castrol DeX vi trans max for 5 bucks a quart at autozone. Went next store to dollar store and purchased a lemonade pitcher. Jacked drivers side up a little and removed 7/16 plug. Drained black oil in pan. Replaced drain plug. Filled lemonade pitcher to the tip top. Dumped old oil in recycling bucket. Filled pitcher w 4 quarts 3 oz. Removed filler cap. Dumped in the top filler port. Replaced cap. Located level port on drivers side next to output shaft. Closed hood.

20 minute job. Extremely easy skill level. Thanks for all the help from the forum members.

Will do this 2 more times in the next few weeks. 37,950 miles on vehicle.

Fluid DID NOT SMELL BURNT. Seemed to be in good condition when you run your fingers in it.

I can't imagine the black is clutch wear. I drive 80 percent freeway at 65mph w cruise on. I'll bet it's an additive but that's my opinion...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Found Valvoline full synthetic DeX vi on sale for 5 bucks a quart plus a 10 dollar off reward credit so I did 2 more exchanges. Fluid nice and clean now.
 

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I've often wondered about fluid color also. Could, just could it be due to an interaction between the basically aluminum casting of the transmission and the moisture that has built up and boiled off after the many miles of use? Yeah I know that it'll probably be shot down by some system administrator but having years of experience in metallurgy and knowledge of oxidation with aluminum it is suspect. :nerd:
 

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That's a pretty interesting idea about how it might get some of its color. I guess I never thought about it that much.
 

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Black fluid, as long as it does NOT smell burnt, does not necessarily imply anything. Calling the fluid color black is also, to a certain extent, a judgment call. Dark brown is usually a more accurate description and that is normal. If you see any metallic appearance however I would be concerned. The fluid will not retain it's red color for long. IMO, there is no such thing as lifetime fluid. Now with that said, the fluid doesn't wear out, but the additive package will be consumed at some point and at that time the fluid needs to be changed.

Fluid level is critical, too much would probably be the one I'd be more concerned with, however, too little is more common in my experience. If you do your own service and you measure what you remove and then add in the same amount, you're back to where you started with fluid level but you still don't know whether that level is correct. In regards to the 6T40, as an example, the temperature you're supposed to check level at is around 190 degrees, ATF temperature that is, not coolant temperature. Also keep in mind, some of the late model transmission cooler lines have thermostats in them which blocks off cooler flow until trans temp is high enough. That is important as if the cooler circuit is not full of fluid when you set the level, when the thermostat does open the air will be purged from the cooler and your fluid level will drop, most likely not a lot but a drop none the less. Yes, it's a PITA to go through all the steps to set proper fluid level but these transmissions aren't the turbo 350's of 40 years ago either. Just my 2 cents.
 
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