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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,
I am new to the group and I appreciate ya'll's willingness to help. I have a 2016 LT Malibu although mine seems to be a basic Malibu, no heated seats, nothing special. Anyway the buttons on my key fob are busted out and I need a new one. I checked with a dealer and they said I couldn't buy just a case, I have to buy the entire key fob. Does anyone know if it is what I heard a piggy back key, or will I have to take it to the dealer to get it programmed?

Thanks for the help,
oletrkguy in SC
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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Try looking on Amazon. I've seen key fob shells/cases available for a number of different brands. GM/Chevy is likely available for yours, but I'm not sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Try looking on Amazon. I've seen key fob shells/cases available for a number of different brands. GM/Chevy is likely available for yours, but I'm not sure.
Thanks for the reply. I have checked around on different websites and from what I can tell there isn't a case available for the particular model I have. I have found the entire fob with the key ranging from 30$ to 73$, the 73$ one was from the dealership. I asked the dealer about programming and he said he wasn't sure if mine was the piggyback type fob or if it had to be programmed entirely. He was the parts guy and the service manager had left for the day. I am going to do a little more research to see if the 30$ fob I found is the actual one I need. The price sounds really good, but we all know the old saying, if it sounds to good to be true, blah blah blah. Anyway thank you and everyone for your input and help.
 

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1midatlanticlocksmith

I have bought several fobs from these folks. Check your FCC ID and numbers
that they give with those on your FOB in the long info at bottom of
page to check.

Notice that cutting the key prong is a separate additional charge. You send them a picture of
your current key's slot as an attachment when you order the extra cost

OR there are videos showing how to gently punch the tiny pin out (1/16 inc) to separate
the key blade on your old one and switch it with the uncut blade on the new one. I've done
that several times. Just work slowly and on a surface where if you lose control of the little
pin, it doesn't get lost. Mine have all been a slow press out job with no danger of slipping away.

If you don't have passive entry, the programming is to just use a known good key to turn on the
ignition to RUN. Remove it and within 15 seconds or so insert the new key with its FOB and turn to RUN and wait for the security light to cycle. Voila. New key works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

1midatlanticlocksmith

I have bought several fobs from these folks. Check your FCC ID and numbers
that they give with those on your FOB in the long info at bottom of
page to check.

Notice that cutting the key prong is a separate additional charge. You send them a picture of
your current key's slot as an attachment when you order the extra cost

OR there are videos showing how to gently punch the tiny pin out (1/16 inc) to separate
the key blade on your old one and switch it with the uncut blade on the new one. I've done
that several times. Just work slowly and on a surface where if you lose control of the little
pin, it doesn't get lost. Mine have all been a slow press out job with no danger of slipping away.

If you don't have passive entry, the programming is to just use a known good key to turn on the
ignition to RUN. Remove it and within 15 seconds or so insert the new key with its FOB and turn to RUN and wait for the security light to cycle. Voila. New key works.
Thank you for the link and the info. I believe when the parts guy mentioned piggyback key, he was referring to what you mentioned about using a good key to program the new one. That sure is a small pin, wonder if they can be bought seperately, like several of them, I may need a couple extra. LoL Thanks again for the info, its very helpful.
 
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