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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My auto start/stop keeps not working. I have taken it to the dealership and they just drive it in circles around the building over and over for a couple hours (or for two days the last time they kept it) and decide they have no clue. Last time when they kept it for two days, they said all they did was charge the aux battery and that fixed it. The first two times when I sat there and waited they reset the computer and that fixed it. All three times it has worked for one week exactly and then stopped working again. Anyway, reason for my question is I don’t fully trust that the battery is bad like they claim. I know they also reset the computer again so I don’t know if that’s what really caused it to start working again or them charging the battery. Nothing else has any issues. It’s not throwing any codes at all. Before I go and spend $400 on a battery I wanted to try charging the battery myself to verify it is the battery. I have googled and searched YouTube and cannot find anything about the location of the aux battery (I assumed in the trunk) for a 2017. All results show a 2016 and mine does not have a cut out in the trunk liner like all the pics/videos show. Does anyone know where to find the aux battery on a 2017 LT?
 

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2016 Malibu 1LT 1.5T
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The 2016 and newer Malibu 1.5T (gen9) do not have an aux battery. It is a one battery system. Certain gen8 models (2013-2016 Malibu Limited) have the original 2 battery system.

While it is certainly time for maintenance battery replacement on a 2017, I can't guarantee it will resolve the intermittent start/stop behavior you are experiencing. I would want to see a code scan that includes B C P and U codes and know a little more about the conditions. But, without getting in to all the detail, battery replacement is fairly easy and it is time anyway.

The $400 battery cost I assume is dealer price? You can get an OEM ACDelco 48AGM for $185 including shipping on Amazon, $154 plus shipping from Rockauto, and likely other parts sites. When you do change the battery make sure retained accessory power (RAP) is off.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The 2016+ Malibu 1.5T (gen9) do not have an aux battery. It is a one battery system. Certain gen8 models (2013-2016 Malibu Limited) have the original 2 battery system.

While it is certainly time for maintenance battery replacement on a 2017, I can't guarantee it will resolve the intermittent start/stop behavior you are experiencing. I would want to see a code scan that includes B C P and U codes and know a little more about the conditions. But, without getting in to all the detail, battery replacement is fairly easy and it is time anyway.

The $400 battery cost I assume is dealer price? You can get an OEM ACDelco 48AGM for $185 including shipping on Amazon, $154 plus shipping from Rockauto, and likely other parts sites. When you do change the battery make sure retained accessory power (RAP) is off.
Thanks. I was wondering if it even had the second battery since no where would show where it was. Guy at the dealership even mentioned it but I guess he didn’t know what he was talking about either. And yes, that was the dealer price. I had no intentions of ever spending $400 on a battery lol he tried to give me a long speech about not buying a cheaper one, saying everyone that has had to come back and buy one from them anyway but I know that’s all just to get my money.

My other concern is charging it and then not resetting the computer to see if the charge really is the problem. He claims that the computer will have to be reset regardless. He said it would have to be reset to reset any codes. I reminded him that it’s not giving any codes and he was like, “yea but it will still have to be reset.” My thought is if it’s not working bc the charge is too low but it has no code, I shouldn’t have to reset the computer, which would also allow me to verify if charging is the fix or something with the computer. I’m going to charge it for a couple hours this evening and see what happens.
 

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I agree with not buying a cheaper product; in my experience and based on other reports here, the problem-free replacements tend to be OE battery for OE battery. The rest of the dealer stuff is just poor communication... or just wrong.

Some reading if interested:

2016-2021 Battery Sensor Module Learn Procedure
https://www.chevymalibuforum.com/attachments/2016-2019-batterymodulelearn-pdf.68115/

2017+ Battery Learn Adjustments
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10140302-9999.pdf

GM Second Generation Stop/Start System Summary
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I agree with not buying a cheaper product; in my experience and based on other reports here, the problem-free replacements tend to be OE battery for OE battery. The rest of the dealer stuff is just poor communication... or just wrong.

Some reading if interested:

2016-2021 Battery Sensor Module Learn Procedure
https://www.chevymalibuforum.com/attachments/2016-2019-batterymodulelearn-pdf.68115/

2017+ Battery Learn Adjustments
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10140302-9999.pdf

GM Second Generation Stop/Start System Summary
Well I referring to buying one of the ones like suggested, just not from the dealer bc I know his mark up is probably huge. But I don’t think it’s the battery at all. My car reads a 13.6-13.7 constantly. Just for the heck of it, I still hooked it up to the charger for 45 mins and then test drove it and no change. Something is fixing it when they reset the computer but with it throwing no codes, no clue what’s going on. I honestly just think they have no idea (they told me that the first two times they looked at it, said they were going to call GM directly and ask for guidance) and he’s just saying it’s the battery bc he doesn’t know what else to do.


To add to reply: I just read the links you attached. Maybe the battery sensor module is the issue 🤔? Just weird with everything else on the car working perfect and no codes. I just can’t afford to be replacing stuff that’s not going to fix it. 😏
 

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2016 Malibu 1LT 1.5T
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No point throwing random parts. Battery is due for replacement; if dealing with electrical problems and it's due that's the first stop. You don't have to wait to be stranded at an intersection to replace a battery.

If you are determined to run that battery until dead, you need a proper code scan. A scan for P codes won't show the active code that is intermittently disabling auto stop. If Auto Stop should be activating, and it is being blocked, there are a series of codes that will be stored. They are not read by all scanners. You need to determine what those are.
 

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4 year old battery, it's due for replacement. 13.6 volts showing means charging system is working.
Auto stop failing to work means system is detecting a issue so it keeps it running so you do not fail to restart at a traffic light.
Basically get a new battery before you become the traffic jam at a intersection.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, so I went ahead and got a new battery, had a mechanic install it and then do a reset on the computer, he ran it for codes and of course got nothing, said he did a clear just in case anyway. So new battery, and auto stop is still not working. Every time dealer reset the computer, auto stop worked for a week. So now my question is the reset the dealership does, I’m guessing it resets more than the computer that the mechanic uses? And is there anyway to do the kind of reset the dealership does without actually going to the dealership?
 

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I have no idea what reset is being done. I also have no idea how you clear codes that aren't showing. My guess is there are codes, B, C, and U and they clear them but they just come back. Auto Stop also won't work right after battery replacement. When I pull the negative or did battery replacement it didn't work until the battery learn completed and about 50 miles were driven.

The dealer reset is probably in the same category as as the charging of the aux battery the dealer claimed to do.
 

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OK, so I went ahead and got a new battery, had a mechanic install it and then do a reset on the computer, he ran it for codes and of course got nothing, said he did a clear just in case anyway. So new battery, and auto stop is still not working. Every time dealer reset the computer, auto stop worked for a week. So now my question is the reset the dealership does, I’m guessing it resets more than the computer that the mechanic uses? And is there anyway to do the kind of reset the dealership does without actually going to the dealership?
It will eventually reset itself. Just got to give it time.
 

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Auto stop may not work a few times after hood has been opened. That's normal.
Your not saving any money with auto stop not working anyway so I would not worry about it.
The auto stop in my '15 has been disabled for a while, same miles per gallon with or with out it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Auto stop still not working. Been driving back and forth (50+ miles) each day to work and all over the county last weekend so well over 300 miles since the new battery and no change. Whatever the dealer did made it immediately work, even if only for a week. Thinking about taking it to one of the other Chevy dealers here and just asking them to do reset and see if they have any other thoughts 🤷🏼‍♀️
 

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Thanks for your post QueenV85 and thanks to the Super Moderators for your inputs. My Auto Stop quit working on my 2017 Malibu LT 1.5L Turbo about a year ago. As pesky as the system is when it's working properly, my curiosity demands to know "why?" when it's not working. Mine started about the time I had an erroneous B1516 DTC. A $130 visit to the dealer (bumper-to-bumper expired) just for them to inform me that I needed a new Battery Current Sensor. "Don't touch it!" I said. After returning home I removed the Battery Current Sensor to get the part number which isn't visible while installed. After reinstalling the BCS, the MIL and DTC code disappeared permanently. Fast forward one year and a bi-directional scan tool later, I have erased a previous fear of draining the "OnStar" battery (because there isn't one) when I removed the BCS. I have no active DTCs in any module. When using the Auto/Stop/Start Special Test with my scan tool, all "YES/NO" PIDs for Auto Stop Disable Reason are in the NO state except for the most ambiguous PID: Invalid Data Received. I'm assuming the ECM is seeing something it doesn't like but unfortunately I can't determine easily what that is. There are other PIDs besides YES/NO and the data displayed could be out of tolerance and, if it is, there's no distinguishing indications i.e. red fonts. The Battery State of Charge is displaying 77% during the special test. I'm getting close to replacing the OEM battery that was installed in 09/2016. We'll see if a new battery makes a difference.

p.s. The only time that I really miss this Auto/Stop function is when I'm in the Captain D's drive through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So far mine still doesn’t work after the battery replacement however I haven’t been back to the dealer to ask them to reset the computer. I’ve been told I can just remove the battery cable and it will reset it but I’ve always seen (and been told by Advance) I could possibly cause the car to need to be reprogrammed by the dealer if I do that so I have been hesitant to try since I can’t get a clear answer. I still feel there was nothing wrong with my battery but…who knows. Please update if you change the battery and it fixes it for you. Thanks 😀
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Had computer reset, worked again for exactly one week, again. So nope. Wasn’t the battery and as I thought, dealer has no clue and just told me that bc they didn’t know what else to say. Time to take it to another dealer.
 

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What you spend financially and time wise on trying to make Auto Stop work you will never see enough fuel savings from it in your entire lifetime to repay a tiny fraction of the amount of money you will be paying to fix it.
 
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What you spend financially and time wise on trying to make Auto Stop work you will never see enough fuel savings from it in your entire lifetime to repay a tiny fraction of the amount of money you will be paying to fix it.

I understand this. I’m not worried about the money saving part actually. I just went and paid in full for a car that is certified and suppose to work flawlessly and that’s what I expect it to do. If I pay for something, especially that much, I expect it to work correctly. And I expect a dealership to be able to tell me why it’s not working correctly when it doesn’t. Someone else may be having the same issue and this thread could help them figure out why theirs isn’t working either if I can ever find out the real reason mine keeps stopping. I searched and searched the internet before I even asked the dealer and I have still not found a single person who has the exact same issue/temp fix as I do. But again, I just want what I pay for to work how it’s suppose to.
 
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