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2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT
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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed I have oil all around my filter housing, also near the battery area
And around the struts
Here’s a couple pictures

DA22029C-241E-4C5D-B45C-37A6F4AA13B6.jpeg 1A6101B9-F16C-456A-8A78-7BDC7D096DBD.jpeg A3C215CC-F54C-4450-AA63-928392A1F1EE.jpeg D50B8C01-A4B6-46DF-B7F0-F427285DAA3C.jpeg 54E6386B-531E-42ED-BA34-98F877FB071E.jpeg E6AD5E92-518C-47CF-8A1D-09D8D021E11B.jpeg
This ones a little dark but passengers side of engine is grimey F85EDBDC-8002-4E03-91B3-27F6AD26AD15.jpeg

And a wire I noticed is this a problem or soon to be?
C43D241D-5710-47E6-B12E-32F5524552E6.jpeg
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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Has it always looked like this, or has it just recently started to get oily?

What does the oil level look like after 1 week, 2 weeks, etc?

It could be PS fluid or motor oil. Have you checked the steering rack and hoses?
 

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2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT
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Discussion Starter #3
Kinda always but there’s more to notice now, always had black but lately there’s the clearish oily substance.
My oil levels aren’t usually down much.
Just changed oil so I’ll keep a mental note on how much it’s down come the next change. I usually change before noted kilometres. It’s never seemed low.
I believe my Malibu Maxx has electronic power steering the 3.9 Maxx SS will have a reserve though.
The back PCV valve looks grungy all around it while the front crankcase valve is clean.. maybe that? Mechanic said no. But the pools of oil around side of my hood say something is up.
The wire harnesses / looms are falling apart. It’s always been less than satisfactory on the looks but this is getting real bad no? The driver side doesn’t look remotely similar, so maybe something is out of sync causing the engine gunk on passenger side?
And no I have not had anti rust spray lately so we can rule that out
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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Possibilities/Thoughts:
Timing chain cover.

Valve cover gasket(s).

Spilled oil during a change.
 

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2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT
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Discussion Starter #5
I don’t believe there was spilling so I’m gonna hope that I can fix this with that blue devil oil stop leak stuff.
Otherwise it’ll stay dirty

And your other trick of drying certain connections and stuff did help get my car power back in lower rpms.
Or was that all related to this issue. Never ending this vehicle
 

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Clean up underhood and watch or ultraviolet dye in the oil are the 2 options.
 
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2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Clean up underhood and watch or ultraviolet dye in the oil are the 2 options.
Degreaser and a tooth brush style? Or do you know any better ways. I’m honestly horrified of spraying water underneath the hood, could unravel a whole new set of problems

And for anyone reading this.. here’s a video

Mine is a 06 that’s why I’m a bit hesitant, apparently 07 and up are built to withstand water more?
Any suggestions as to what I should be covering/ not get wet..
 

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I have a 2004 Malibu Maxx with the same engine. 310,000 miles by the way!! The alternator is on that side. Just be careful with that. I went to a car wash and used engine degreaser. Then sprayed it off with the hose. The have oil/ separators so it is fine with the environment. Just be careful spraying and you will be fine. Your second to last picture is what my engine area looks like as well. I cleaned it off and saw a very slow anti-freeze leak from the cylinder head. Engine is still very powerful and I have had this vehicle since August of 2005. It had 910 miles on it. I have done most of the maintenance myself so I know the car very, very well!! Let me know if you have any other questions. Kevin
 

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2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT
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Discussion Starter #9
I have a 2004 Malibu Maxx with the same engine. 310,000 miles by the way!! The alternator is on that side. Just be careful with that. I went to a car wash and used engine degreaser. Then sprayed it off with the hose. The have oil/ separators so it is fine with the environment. Just be careful spraying and you will be fine. Your second to last picture is what my engine area looks like as well. I cleaned it off and saw a very slow anti-freeze leak from the cylinder head. Engine is still very powerful and I have had this vehicle since August of 2005. It had 910 miles on it. I have done most of the maintenance myself so I know the car very, very well!! Let me know if you have any other questions. Kevin
Well thanks, I’ll be messaging you from time to time I need to start doing more myself to save cash. Now some questions.
after I cover my alternator with a bag should I remove the belt so the degreaser doesn’t have a chance to make it slick/slippery? Or will it rinse off.
Did you ever have a problem with using the a/c and it smells? I got this horse smell going on and it’s gross. The air is still cold, just stinky. The grill/ rad area has a similar stench

Also did your car sound as squeaky as mine? I can literally just rock side to side and squeak squeak squeak squeak. Is this my control arms?
Every time I told my mechanic he’d do something then 10 mins after I leave it’s back at it. along with metal clunk when I turn all the way to the left.
I was told when I get an anti rust undercoating that should take care of the squeaking.

Is there a good/easy way to flush and change the transmission fluid?

I’m also trying to get my passengers wiper arm off to paint, I think it’s seized. Drivers came off but this ones stubborn, I may have to just get the little tool for it because I’ve tried like 4 YouTube techniques but it ain’t budging and I don’t think I should spray penetrating lube near the vents

Thanks
 

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No need to remove the belt. Just make sure you don't spray the degreaser on it directly. Everything will wash off nicely once you spray it with water. I never did receive a bad small from the A/C. This may be a small anti-freeze leak from the radiator that is burning. Not sure why it would be in the car though. My A/C pumps out really well!!

Yes, the suspension is very squeaky and I replaced quite a bit that helped. You may want to to replace the front strut assemblies and stabilizer links. I also replaced the inner and outer tie rods and both lower control arms at 207,000 miles. Cost for all that was $252 at Rock Auto. At 282,000 miles, I replaced the rear shocks and shock mounts. I am not sure what your mechanic is talking about but I never heard of anti-rust coating helping squeaking. That makes no sense to me. By the way, if you have some experience working on cars, you can do all this yourself. I was able to.

Do not do a flush to your transmission. I learned the hard way. Simply drop the pan, change the filter and refill. Although this does not get all the fluid out, it won't do damage like a flush will. Do not let anyone talk you into a flush!!

My wipers need painting as well but I haven't gone down that road. Sorry, no advice on that one.

I have a great spreadsheet listing all the maintenance items I did. If you would care to see it, I can send it to you or post it.

I am hoping to get another year or two from car, probably get it up to 325,000 to 330,000 miles!!! Since I wax it all the time, it looks really good body wise!!

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No need to remove the belt. Just make sure you don't spray the degreaser on it directly. Everything will wash off nicely once you spray it with water. I never did receive a bad small from the A/C. This may be a small anti-freeze leak from the radiator that is burning. Not sure why it would be in the car though. My A/C pumps out really well!!

Yes, the suspension is very squeaky and I replaced quite a bit that helped. You may want to to replace the front strut assemblies and stabilizer links. I also replaced the inner and outer tie rods and both lower control arms at 207,000 miles. Cost for all that was $252 at Rock Auto. At 282,000 miles, I replaced the rear shocks and shock mounts. I am not sure what your mechanic is talking about but I never heard of anti-rust coating helping squeaking. That makes no sense to me. By the way, if you have some experience working on cars, you can do all this yourself. I was able to.

Do not do a flush to your transmission. I learned the hard way. Simply drop the pan, change the filter and refill. Although this does not get all the fluid out, it won't do damage like a flush will. Do not let anyone talk you into a flush!!

My wipers need painting as well but I haven't gone down that road. Sorry, no advice on that one.

I have a great spreadsheet listing all the maintenance items I did. If you would care to see it, I can send it to you or post it.

I am hoping to get another year or two from car, probably get it up to 325,000 to 330,000 miles!!! Since I wax it all the time, it looks really good body wise!!

Kevin
That sounds awesome, ya I guess post it here incase anyone else reading this would like a peak.
I thought that the rust thing didn’t sound right...
I recently just replaced the front struts like 20k kilometres ago but it’s still squeaking so I’m going to assume I need to replace the tie rods and control arms also the rear needs done.
Will that also eliminate the metal clank sound when I turn the wheel?

320k miles gives me hope, just tipping 200k kilometres I may get another 10 years outta this... maybe not.. do you get winter weather and salted roads?

Just got back from a trip and I think the ac blower or whatever it’s called is crapping out my car makes a weird sound when I turn ac on and stops when off but I swear it sounds like it was behind me. Didn’t notice the sound until I opened my window. Still cold though.
Transmission has a filter? Learning something new here.
 

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Sorry to say that it most likely won't fix the clunk. That may be the steering column. Check out repair #123 on my list. The Maxx has a history of issues with the steering. Mine acted up then would disappear. Finally, it was happening too frequently so I took it in to the dealer.
I live in Atlanta so no winter weather here!!
I am pretty sure there is a filter there!! I am on my 3rd transmission (original plus two). Last one I bought at Rock Auto and had it shipped to a local transmission shop. Saved a bunch of money doing that way.

I attached my spreadsheet (had to use PDF format) for your viewing pleasure!!! In column "F", if you see Advance or AA that means the parts came from Advance Auto. When you see RA, it is Rock Auto. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Kevin
 

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2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Sorry to say that it most likely won't fix the clunk. That may be the steering column. Check out repair #123 on my list. The Maxx has a history of issues with the steering. Mine acted up then would disappear. Finally, it was happening too frequently so I took it in to the dealer.
I live in Atlanta so no winter weather here!!
I am pretty sure there is a filter there!! I am on my 3rd transmission (original plus two). Last one I bought at Rock Auto and had it shipped to a local transmission shop. Saved a bunch of money doing that way.

I attached my spreadsheet (had to use PDF format) for your viewing pleasure!!! In column "F", if you see Advance or AA that means the parts came from Advance Auto. When you see RA, it is Rock Auto. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Kevin
Your awesome. If I’m ever in hotlanta I’m buying you a keg hehehe.

After skimming through, I think I got a lotta money I’m gonna have to sink into this.
You’re in US dollars also shiiiiiiii***...
I’m gonna have to sink like 5 g’s into this thing... I may just buy a cheap shell car and do an engine swap lmao.
Or take cp the nerds advice and get a new car.
Oh man... your hard on your brakes huh? Oh yaaa miles not km.
I definitely need a new transmission, I’m hoping some new fluid will breathe some life back into it but it feels like it’s wanting to slip sometimes.
I’ll be adopting this spreadsheet formula to myself. It’s very well put together. Great idea.
Did you put the same tranny in every time or did you upgrade it ever?

Could we get the impala transmission to fit? I read on their forums someone with the 3.5 apparently could get the 5.8 transmission if they wanted. Apparently it’s a lot better.

Oh and what’s best way to get the PCV in the back? I believe I need a new one it’s real grungey lookin, oily .

Somebody give this guy a trophy or something.
 

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I am glad you like the spreadsheet!!

If your engine is still running great, I would start fixing everything in phases. Maybe start with rear shocks and shock mounts. That is an easy fix. Then go to front suspension. This could be an all weekend project. When you take out the tie rods, you will immediately see that you are doing the right repair, because they will be very loose!! You will probably see rotted rubber seals on the control arms as I did. If you can do it yourself, the savings and satisfaction of doing it right, is awesome. Don't forget your alignment once done!!!

I have learned quite a bit with brakes. I am a strong believer in Akebono brake pads. I put a front set on my Volvo XC90 and they are still on there 100,000 miles later. I should have learned that early on with the Maxx!! I will be replacing the front very soon as well as you can see I just did the rear. I always replace calipers with the pads.

Regarding the transmission, I just wanted one to work!! The first replacement, I just trusted the shop to replace it with their rebuilt one. The second, I did some more research and bought one from Rock Auto. Not sure if the Impala will fit, but sounds like a good idea.

Good luck and keep me posted!!
 
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