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Discussion Starter #1
So, I am a Chevy Parts guy, and 2 years ago I lucked into a very well used 2003 Malibu with a 3.1. While getting Donuts one day a year ago, I found another local with a near identical "05 classic. Long story short-ish, I bought it from her a couple months ago feeling knowing they are 90% the same car.

Both cars had been hit in a front door at one point or another and I am trying to determine if I must swap the entire manual crank module from the 2003 damaged L/F Door Shell to the 2005 L/F undamaged door shell or, I am currently hoping, someone can stoke my dreams of upgrading the 2003 to electric windows....

I have access to ALLL of GMs documentation on these vehicles and I can puzzle it out eventually but if someone else here has played this game, I would not want to re-invent the wheel on the matter.

Shane
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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I haven't done exactly what you want to do, but electrical mods are pretty easy when compared to mechanical, for me anyway.

I'd vote to put the 2005 EW (electric window) door on the 2003 and then run a power and heavy ground to the door. You will want the power to be affected by the key, so I'd use a separate 40A relay ($5 most places), a 30A fuse between the battery and it, plus a 2A fuse between the key (or other circuit) and the coil to prevent issues in the original circuits.

That way, you'll have 4 switches with 1 power window on the EW door, and 3 manual windows on the original doors.

Next, consider moving the regulator with EW on the damaged 2005 to the undamaged 2003 F/R door and stretch 2 wires from the driver's door to the R/F. Once you've done that, you'll want to swap in the rear doors, too, and it'll be more of the same: lather, rinse, repeat.

For the added relay, terminals 85 and 86 are the coil. Ground one, run a fuse holder to the other and insert a 2A fuse, then run that to an ACC circuit on the 2003. Turn the key to ACC and the relay will click, indicating that it's ON. Turn it to RUN to be sure it stays on and doesn't click again.

Next, on terminals 87 and 30, wire a fuse holder to one of them, insert a 30A fuse into it, and run the other end to battery power (not ACC or RUN). The other relay terminal gets wired to the driver's door. If you add the R/F EW to the car, that same wire will be its power supply. If you add the rear EWs, they will be powered through the driver's panel since it contains a lock-out switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I haven't done exactly what you want to do, but electrical mods are pretty easy when compared to mechanical, for me anyway.

I'd vote to put the 2005 EW (electric window) door on the 2003 and then run a power and heavy ground to the door. You will want the power to be affected by the key, so I'd use a separate 40A relay ($5 most places), a 30A fuse between the battery and it, plus a 2A fuse between the key (or other circuit) and the coil to prevent issues in the original circuits.

That way, you'll have 4 switches with 1 power window on the EW door, and 3 manual windows on the original doors.

Next, consider moving the regulator with EW on the damaged 2005 to the undamaged 2003 F/R door and stretch 2 wires from the driver's door to the R/F. Once you've done that, you'll want to swap in the rear doors, too, and it'll be more of the same: lather, rinse, repeat.

For the added relay, terminals 85 and 86 are the coil. Ground one, run a fuse holder to the other and insert a 2A fuse, then run that to an ACC circuit on the 2003. Turn the key to ACC and the relay will click, indicating that it's ON. Turn it to RUN to be sure it stays on and doesn't click again.

Next, on terminals 87 and 30, wire a fuse holder to one of them, insert a 30A fuse into it, and run the other end to battery power (not ACC or RUN). The other relay terminal gets wired to the driver's door. If you add the R/F EW to the car, that same wire will be its power supply. If you add the rear EWs, they will be powered through the driver's panel since it contains a lock-out switch.
Thank you so much for your quick response!

I would certainly rather do what you are suggesting....

The 40a Relay? would that be meant to be located in the I/P fuse area on the drivers side, or out to the under-hood block? I see only fuse locations references in my paperwork as opposed to the actual terminal addresses. Could I terminate into the UHFB into on of the unused areas? ( I know the answer is ultimately yes, but is it what you mean?)
 

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The relay can be located near the interior fuse panel, or somewhere convenient to you if you ever need to service it. Just so I'm not misdirecting you, here's a link to an image of the 30/40A relay that is available in many auto parts stores.

The terminal addresses I mentioned are on the added relay, not the car. BTW, most relays like this with 5 terminals don't have two #87 terminals. They'll have 1 each of 87 and 87a. 87 is NO (normally open) and 87a is NC (normally closed). The NO is what you want to use. If you need something to be energized until you turn the key on, but not after, use 87a.

https://www.amazon.com/Volt-Mini-Relay-Automotive-Prongs/dp/B01MUX5Y8R

67965



I wouldn't buy one online since the shipping doubles the price. I buy them 10 at a time and the shipping is pretty close to nothing most times.

Additionally, the image below is of an Add-A-Circuit that lets you tap into a circuit without having to cut or splice it. It also lets you restore it to stock if needed by just removing the device.

67964
 
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