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Alot of people have asked about it and talked about doing it. So here it is, I installed a full leather interior including seats, steering wheel, and shift knob. Along with the rear view mirror from an Ltz car.

I'll post some before and after pics
 

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More pics. Just waiting on my paint for the interior to get here.
 

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Very nice looking! Other than the interior trim painting, what else is left to convert this into a Z?
 

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Thanks guys! As far as what's left is just a couple it's just a couple very minor things. I am going to do lighted sunvisors, need to add the fog light switch on the dash. And then the paint and that should be about it.
 

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More pics. Just waiting on my paint for the interior to get here.
Hey Jon S...looks great. Where did you get the leather? Web dealer/Site? My daughter tore the hell out of her cloth but the front seats are heated so I wanted to recover with leather in the 2011 LT.

Really nice looking wood grain trim pieces too.
 

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Thanks man! I actually got the entire interior out of a wrecked ltz and swapped everything over. I know katzkin does leather for these cars too. But your cheapest and imo best option is to just find a wrecked car with leather. And swap them that way.
 

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I have a little inside info for anyone looking to swap seats.

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During the Gen7 period, Chevy switched over to seatbelt pretensioners, which means a couple of important differences.

1. The airbag connector under the seat has moved from 2 wires to 4 wires, the extra 2 being needed for the pretensioner. When putting newer seats into older models, you can just ignore the pretensioner wiring, but you may want or need to find a 4-wire pigtail to wire into your older system. When putting older seats into newer models, you'll get an airbag alert message and light. I have no idea how to fake the SRS module into thinking that there's a pretensioner, so I get the message and light every time I start the car.

2. The seat belt anchor point needs to be modified when going from older to newer seats, since the earlier models attach directly to the seat frame and newer models attach to the pretensioner.

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If you're upgrading to factory heated seats after not having them, you'll need to run extra power to the seat. It's pretty easy, but the way the factory did it is weird. When the heat is on and you turn off the engine, the RAP will keep the heat on until you open the door or RAP times out, which is also when the radio turns off. This means that there are actually 2 power circuits with 2 separate fuses. For me, I'd make it simple and still have 2 fuses as well, but they'd both turn off with the key and not use RAP. The 2 fuses would go into an aux fuse panel so they wouldn't be just floating around somewhere, also allowing a place for additional fuses for future projects.
 
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