[Yeah138]

So I recently purchased a 2011 Malibu, it has the 2.4l Ecotec. It runs and drives fine (well as good as it can, being this is how I got it) however there is a steady check engine light that flashes every hundred miles or so, and I can feel a slight very almost unnoticable shake at idle, and when light is scanned it only comes back as a cylinder 2 misfire. I've already went through and replaced the plug and coil for the second cylinder from the far left with no change in engine light, or how it drives, check engine light stayed for cylinder 2 misfire. I've read some info here and there about the plug/injector wiring as well as a fault map sensor. My question to you more knowledgeable folk is what would be the next step in the troubleshooting process for a cylinder 2 misfire

 

[Yeah138]

I should also note that there is a ESC and Service Traction warning that also intermittently shows on the dash, I've heard that is is also related to what is causing the misfire

 

[DrivenDaily]

Read this thread about fretting corrosion and see if it helps.

FRETTING CORROSION: Service Traction Control/ ESC (See...

Saw there hasn't been a post on this for awhile. Had the Traction Control/ECS issue. First noticed the cruise control kicked off, my RPM went up, the car slowed down. I switched over to manual mode. The warning messages were flashing on and off. I held the info button down and they reset. Since...

www.chevymalibuforum.com

 

[Yeah138]

Thank you for sharing that link, After reviewing it I can't say I share any similar brake light issues, or other shifting/jerking or dying issues, i've put a few hundred miles on it since I bought it but so far only the misfire code and the slight shake/idle issue. I can't say it's supposed to drive better than it does now as it's been like this since I got it, so I don't know what it was like beforehand but i would say it gets a little bit less than what it should average with gas mileage, it runs drives and shifts great otherwise. Brakes engage and disengage properly. (3rth on lid of trunk is intermittent, but was told wiring issue under lid when getting it inspected, so likely separate issue)

 

[DrivenDaily]

The method they shared about disconnecting and reconnecting the BCM plugs is meant to burnish the terminals themselves, and the dielectric grease is there to help keep the outside environment just that - outside. It might work in your circumstance.

Your 2011 has a CHMSL at the bottom of the back window. You mention that it is on the trunk lid. If so, it may have had a non-stock spoiler added with a second CHMSL.

 

[Yeah138]

Sorry new to the website and just read the 3rd page! currently investigating while working, so I will definitely have to check that out thanks! Is there any further information about the proper process to do this? I've never owned a vehicle this new and don't want to pull the wrong thing or cause any further problems

 

[Yeah138]

I am seeing the portion about the BCM on the right side of the front floor compartment on that same thread, is this what I should be attempting? Sorry again, this new technical stuff is very confusing for a not very familiar user, but trying to avoid taking it to a shop/dealer

 

[DrivenDaily]

The BCM is inside the center console. There are 2 connectors visible from the passenger's side, and if you pull the cover on the driver's side, there's one more hiding back there.

ESC and TC could be related to the EPS motor and/or sensor, which are under the dash.

What you should start with is getting the codes read. Buy or borrow a scanner that can read all 4 code families, not just the P codes that cheap scanners do. The others are B, C, and U.

 

[Yeah138]

I've had a handful of places run a code scanner and all was shown was the cylinder 2 misfire code, but not sure if they coincidentally all only have ones that read P codes. Do you have any cheap scanners you would recommend if deciding to purchase? I've seen quite a wide variety of issues that go on with this car/model so I'm almost thinking about investing in one for personal use

 

[DrivenDaily]

I personally own a BlueDriver, selling for about $100 presently. I believe I've seen others mentioned here on CMF that run considerably less and were reported on favorably.

 

[Yeah138]

Okay, got into the passenger side and was met with a lot more than what I expected, here is a couple pictures as I'm having doubts on what I'm doing here

 

[DrivenDaily]

The blue ones, not the red one.

There's another blue one around back.

 

[Yeah138]

Okay, thanks for clarifying. Is it necessary to remove the Neg- battery terminal prior to doing so? Trying to get a good check list of stuff in the right order to go through on my next full day off work. Won't have the funds for a good code reader until payday, or if I happen to find someone locally with one

 

[DrivenDaily]

It's always a good practice to disconnect the battery, but to my knowledge it isn't necessary for this operation. I've unplugged my 2011 a number of times without any issues, and the battery was still connected.

 

[Yeah138]

Okay cool I'm gonna try to take some time later to pull all 3 and re-seat them a couple times to see if this results in any improvements. I will stay updated!

 

[Yeah138]

So I decided to get up early this morning to give this a shot before work, was able to pull both of the plugs on the passenger side, ironically enough there was already some grease on the higher end, slightly more hidden blue connector, however the drivers side only had a hardness where two connectors met, not sure where they were each leading to. I had removed each of these connectors a few times and re-seated them with no issues. I even went on a short test drive to see if there was any changes and I didn't see any service esc or traction control message the entire time, however the check engine light remained, not blinking but remained. Drivability had no difference as well. HOWEVER, when i finally pulled up back at home pretty thrilled at the results I ended up (for whatever reason I dont know) turning on the a/c, when that happened I felt the motor bog a little as the ac motor kicked in, and then rev back up to compensate. When this happened, the dreaded message came up on screen with the wavy traction control message, service esc ect. Also I was mistaken about the 3rd brake light, it is at the bottom of the back window as it should be

 

[Yeah138]

To test this a little bit more I shut the car off completely and waited a few moments. I started her back up and let it idle for a second, no dinging, lights or messages on dash besides check engine. I turned the ac on and immediately was presented with those same on dash messages

 

[Ken Rat]

Also Check and clean your mass air flow sensor. I changed mine and the #1 miss fire went away. I think just pulling the plug and pushing it back in did the trick.

 

[Yeah138]

I'll check that out! Where can I find the mass air flow sensor?

 

[DrivenDaily]

It's on the air filter tube right next to the air filter.

DO NOT TOUCH IT!

Do not spray anything on it except MAF cleaner!