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Discussion Starter #1
Saw there hasn't been a post on this for awhile.
Had the Traction Control/ECS issue. First noticed the cruise control kicked off, my RPM went up, the car slowed down. I switched over to manual mode. The warning messages were flashing on and off. I held the info button down and they reset. Since it has been a long time since it has happened I wanted to wait a few days before I took it into the dealer. Seems to be happening everyday now. Starts soon after I get into highway cruise speeds. Don't notice it much around town. Doesn't keep a hard fail so I might just have a damaged brake control module or a wiring problem. The dealer Service will hopefully find some stored codes to help narrow it down.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The brake lights didn't come on that I noticed. I will look for that.
I will take it in today to see what codes if any are stored. I noticed this morning that it occurred when the car's cruise control is on and I was on a downgrade. The cruise went off and the traction warning lamp came on. I hope it does it again on the way to the dealer. Hate showing up and and there isn't a symptom.
 

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The brake lights didn't come on that I noticed. I will look for that.
I will take it in today to see what codes if any are stored. I noticed this morning that it occurred when the car's cruise control is on and I was on a downgrade. The cruise went off and the traction warning lamp came on. I hope it does it again on the way to the dealer. Hate showing up and and there isn't a symptom.
Keep me updated in regards to your progress at the dealer. Feel free to send me a private message if you have any questions in the meantime. Thank you.

Tricia, GM Customer Service.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The Service dept. at Seaview In Lynnwood didn't find anything conclusive in the codes so they relearned the brake pedal. Same thing happened the next 2 mornings on the way to work. Didn't happen on the way home though. I hate intermittant problems. Left the car overnight pick it up today hopefully. i did noticed a down shift as the ECS light came on and the cruise kicked off. Thanks for the note Tricia
 

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If your concern does not seem to be resolved, please feel free to contact me privately. Be sure to include your contact information, VIN, current mileage, and dealer information. Thank you in advance.

Tricia, GM Customer Service.
 

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The Service dept. at Seaview In Lynnwood didn't find anything conclusive in the codes so they relearned the brake pedal. Same thing happened the next 2 mornings on the way to work. Didn't happen on the way home though. I hate intermittant problems. Left the car overnight pick it up today hopefully. i did noticed a down shift as the ECS light came on and the cruise kicked off. Thanks for the note Tricia
I'm guessing their next attempt at a fix will be putting dielectric silicone gel on the BCM connector.
 

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If the traction control kicked off there almost has to be a trouble code stored somewhere, not on your paperwork from the dealer? Here's a bulletin, you may want to print this out and take it with you to the dealer next time.

#08-05-22-009C: Intermittently Brake Lights (Stop Lamps) Do Not Function Correctly, Cruise Control Inop, DTCs C0131/C0161/C0277 (Perform Repair Outlined) - (Sep 30, 2010)


Subject: Intermittently Brake Lights (Stop Lamps) Do Not Function Correctly, Extended Travel to Shift Out of Park, Cruise Control Inoperative, DTCs C0131, C0161 or C0277 Set (Perform Repair as Outlined)


Models: 2004-2008 Chevrolet Malibu, Malibu Maxx

2008 Chevrolet Malibu Classic

2008-2011 Chevrolet Malibu

2005-2010 Pontiac G6

2007-2009 Saturn AURA




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This bulletin is being revised to update the models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-05-22-009B (Section 05 - Brakes).


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Condition
Some customers may comment that intermittently the brake lights do not function correctly. Other symptoms may include extended pedal travel required to shift out of PARK, cruise control does not function correctly, and DTC C0131, C0161 and/or C0277 may be set.

Cause
The most likely cause of this condition is high resistance due to terminal fretting corrosion in the body control module (BCM) C2 or X2 connector (specifically pins 18, 31 and 59).

Correction
DO NOT replace the BCM for this condition. Disconnecting the C2 or X2 connector, adding dielectric lubricant and reconnecting the connector per the procedure below will correct the high resistance condition due to terminal fretting corrosion.

Remove the right side front floor console side trim panel to access to the Body Control Module (BCM).
Locate the C2 or X2 connector on the BCM.
Unlatch the connector and disconnect the connector from the BCM.
Apply dielectric lubricant (clear gel), GM P/N 12377900 (in Canada, use P/N 10953529) or equivalent, on all the connector pins (apply with a one-inch nylon bristle brush). This will treat the pins against fretting corrosion.
Reconnect the connector back on the BCM and re-latch. Wipe away any excess lubricant.
Reinstall the right side front floor console side trim panel.
Using the Tech 2®, check that the BPPS ratio is equal to BPPS learned home when the brake pedal is not depressed.
• If they are equal, the brake lamps should be operating correctly and no further steps are necessary.

• If they are not equal, perform the Brake Pedal Position Sensor Calibration procedure in SI to complete the repair.

Verify proper operation of the brake lights. If incorrect, refer to SI and perform normal diagnostics.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well that's what they did, Dielectric grease on the Body Control Module connector. I'm thinking the service manager heard that I mentioned something here and looked or he came across the bulletin himself.
The trip home and the trip in the morning it didn't kick off. I am hopeful that fixes the problem.
I was expecting a much more expensive result per my experience elsewhere. Itermittant problems can be such a headache for everyone involved. But to my surprize this problem was handled quickly and with the minimum amount of pain for all involved. If it stays fixed for awhile I'll be happy.
 

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Well that's what they did, Dielectric grease on the Body Control Module connector. I'm thinking the service manager heard that I mentioned something here and looked or he came across the bulletin himself.
The trip home and the trip in the morning it didn't kick off. I am hopeful that fixes the problem.
I was expecting a much more expensive result per my experience elsewhere. Intermittent problems can be such a headache for everyone involved. But to my surprise this problem was handled quickly and with the minimum amount of pain for all involved. If it stays fixed for awhile I'll be happy.
Please let us know if that problem returns. We are trying to establish how effective that repair is in the long term. Connector corrosion seems to be affecting a lot of our cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
As an unanticipated spin off I believe the transmission is shifting less on going up hills. It was shifting up and down a whole lot before the connector reseat. (in the 5-6th gear) I have a degree in Avionics technology and as such know that dielectric grease (Silicon based) is not a conductor and may interfere with the flow of current through a connection. If "fretting" is the problem then that would indicate a solder connection on the board is the problem. Usually that is caused by a poor clean up of flux after the solder operation is completed The best way to handle the problem is clean, well as possible, the pins/connector in question with alcohol or a good anti corrision cleaner I recommend a non flourine based relay contact cleaner. Then reseat connector and hope for the best. Resoldering will present it's own complications.
Applying gease to a connector junction may help seal the connection form atmosphere but is not a long term fix. I found this quote from the internet.
While the indicated use of dielectric grease calls for it to be used only on the non-metal parts of a connection, it has been shown to be effective at preventing corrosion when applied directly to the metal connectors as well. Care should be taken when using it in this way, because this application can, in some instances, cause the connection to stop working. A common reason for such a failure is that the grease has not been pushed entirely out of the way between the two points of contact.
I pretty much agree with the statement.
But I think that if it works for a year or two I will be happy.
 

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As an unanticipated spin off I believe the transmission is shifting less on going up hills. It was shifting up and down a whole lot before the connector reseat. (in the 5-6th gear) I have a degree in Avionics technology and as such know that dielectric grease (Silicon based) is not a conductor and may interfere with the flow of current through a connection. If "fretting" is the problem then that would indicate a solder connection on the board is the problem. Usually that is caused by a poor clean up of flux after the solder operation is completed The best way to handle the problem is clean, well as possible, the pins/connector in question with alcohol or a good anti corrision cleaner I recommend a non flourine based relay contact cleaner. Then reseat connector and hope for the best. Resoldering will present it's own complications.
Applying gease to a connector junction may help seal the connection form atmosphere but is not a long term fix. I found this quote from the internet.
While the indicated use of dielectric grease calls for it to be used only on the non-metal parts of a connection, it has been shown to be effective at preventing corrosion when applied directly to the metal connectors as well. Care should be taken when using it in this way, because this application can, in some instances, cause the connection to stop working. A common reason for such a failure is that the grease has not been pushed entirely out of the way between the two points of contact.
I pretty much agree with the statement.
But I think that if it works for a year or two I will be happy.
Fretting corrosion is caused by microscopic movement relative to the connector's conductor surfaces. I have been using dielectric silicone on car electrical connections for several years now & have never been made aware that's it has produced a high resistance connection. I understand that it's a bit counter-intuitive to use an electrically insulating lubricant. Nevertheless, it works for me (& GM I guess).

This explains it much better than I ever could:

http://connectors.delphi.com/dcsgdmcs/Del/attachments/Promotions/fretting.pdf
 

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We're not talking about a solder connection on the BCM, it's a connector terminal fretting issue. Here's GM's bulletin and their solution, at least for now.

#09-06-03-004D: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules-Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion - (Dec 8, 2010)


Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules -- Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion (Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)


Models: 2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks



Attention: This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.



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This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011 model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).


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Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:

• An intermittent no crank/no start

• Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination

• Intermittent service lamp illumination

• Intermittent service message(s) being displayed

The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.

Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector. This may be caused by any of the following conditions:

• Vibration

• Thermal cycling

• Poor connection/terminal retention

• Micro motion

• A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement

On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent connections.

On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and may cause a device to become inoperative.

Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or component for every vehicle.

• Blower Control Module

• Body Control Module (BCM)

• Communication Interface Module (CIM)

• Cooling Fan Control Module

• Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)

• Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)

• Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module

• Engine Control Module (ECM)

• Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module

• HVAC Actuator

• Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)

- Any AIR BAG module

- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner

- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner

- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set: B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023

• Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

• Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)

• Transmission Control Module (TCM)

Correction
Important: DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:

• The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.

• The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can no longer be duplicated.


Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.

Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any existing history or current DTCs from all of the control modules (refer to SI).
⇒ If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control module/component which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).

⇒ If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control module/component which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).

When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component Connector End Views and Component Locator documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the condition.
Note: Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or identified without the use of a magnifying glass.





Important: DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown, as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors.

Use ONLY a clean nylon brush that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.


With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure

- Circuit/System Description

- Conditions for Running the DTC

- Conditions for Setting the DTC

- Diagnostic Aids

- Circuit/System Verification

⇒ If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete.

⇒ If the condition can be duplicated, then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
 

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I have a 2009 Malibu with approximately 60,000 miles. The traction control light comes on and intermitely shuts off when I shut the engine off and restart it.

when the car was still under warranty I did bring it to the dealership for this problem and they said they could find nothing wrong. The problem went away and has just recently resurfaced.

The dealer wants $150 just to diagnose the problem.

Do I have any options?
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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Use the search feature for "fretting corrosion" and see if that might be what you need to do.
 

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I have 2010 Malibu with 86k miles. The Service traction warning and ESC off light started coming on about a week ago. After a while the check engine light comes on with P0301 and P0201 codes.

Took to local dealer and they only performed the recall 13036 Brake Lamp Malfunction recall and said they did not see any codes in the system after 3 days. Picked up car and within a few minutes, the same warnings occurred.

Dealer took another look and now have all the same codes as I told them on day one. They told me it was a bad injector wiring harness that needs replacement @ $280 and that anytime the service engine light comes on the Traction and ESC go off.

Wondering if anyone else has seen the same and this is anything related to the injector harness.
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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I have a 2011 with 3.6L V6.

I get the Service Traction warning and ESC Off message and never get them together with a CEL. I can almost 100% of the time generate the 2 messages by simply turning the steering wheel. A year ago I replaced the front wheel bearings believing that it might be the VSS (veh speed sensors) that also serve as the ABS sensors. Nope.

The 2 codes you got might be why they recommend the injector harness service. Is yours a 4-cylinder engine? If so, there have been TSBs about the harness near the coil packs needing to be moved and/or shielded plus a ground wire added for the coil packs. What happens is the EPS (electronic power steering) draws so much power that it causes the alternator to charge very strongly. The power passes by the coils and can induce a current in them, causing a misfire. Also, they can misfire and cause an induced current in the EPS that makes it twitch or do other funny stuff. My V6 has hydraulic PS so it doesn't have this issue.

Get them to provide more information on why they recommend the service. You, after all, are the one who is in control of your wallet. Don't go easily into the dark night of misguided advice on services that aren't needed or are completely wrong.
 

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I have a 2011 with 3.6L V6.

I get the Service Traction warning and ESC Off message and never get them together with a CEL. I can almost 100% of the time generate the 2 messages by simply turning the steering wheel. A year ago I replaced the front wheel bearings believing that it might be the VSS (veh speed sensors) that also serve as the ABS sensors. Nope.

The 2 codes you got might be why they recommend the injector harness service. Is yours a 4-cylinder engine? If so, there have been TSBs about the harness near the coil packs needing to be moved and/or shielded plus a ground wire added for the coil packs. What happens is the EPS (electronic power steering) draws so much power that it causes the alternator to charge very strongly. The power passes by the coils and can induce a current in them, causing a misfire. Also, they can misfire and cause an induced current in the EPS that makes it twitch or do other funny stuff. My V6 has hydraulic PS so it doesn't have this issue.

Get them to provide more information on why they recommend the service. You, after all, are the one who is in control of your wallet. Don't go easily into the dark night of misguided advice on services that aren't needed or are completely wrong.
yes a 4 cyl, thanks for the info
 
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