Are the brake lamps on when they shouldn't be?
Maybe have someone follow you for awhile.The brake lights didn't come on that I noticed. I will look for that.
Keep me updated in regards to your progress at the dealer. Feel free to send me a private message if you have any questions in the meantime. Thank you.The brake lights didn't come on that I noticed. I will look for that.
I will take it in today to see what codes if any are stored. I noticed this morning that it occurred when the car's cruise control is on and I was on a downgrade. The cruise went off and the traction warning lamp came on. I hope it does it again on the way to the dealer. Hate showing up and and there isn't a symptom.
I'm guessing their next attempt at a fix will be putting dielectric silicone gel on the BCM connector.The Service dept. at Seaview In Lynnwood didn't find anything conclusive in the codes so they relearned the brake pedal. Same thing happened the next 2 mornings on the way to work. Didn't happen on the way home though. I hate intermittant problems. Left the car overnight pick it up today hopefully. i did noticed a down shift as the ECS light came on and the cruise kicked off. Thanks for the note Tricia
Please let us know if that problem returns. We are trying to establish how effective that repair is in the long term. Connector corrosion seems to be affecting a lot of our cars.Well that's what they did, Dielectric grease on the Body Control Module connector. I'm thinking the service manager heard that I mentioned something here and looked or he came across the bulletin himself.
The trip home and the trip in the morning it didn't kick off. I am hopeful that fixes the problem.
I was expecting a much more expensive result per my experience elsewhere. Intermittent problems can be such a headache for everyone involved. But to my surprise this problem was handled quickly and with the minimum amount of pain for all involved. If it stays fixed for awhile I'll be happy.
Fretting corrosion is caused by microscopic movement relative to the connector's conductor surfaces. I have been using dielectric silicone on car electrical connections for several years now & have never been made aware that's it has produced a high resistance connection. I understand that it's a bit counter-intuitive to use an electrically insulating lubricant. Nevertheless, it works for me (& GM I guess).As an unanticipated spin off I believe the transmission is shifting less on going up hills. It was shifting up and down a whole lot before the connector reseat. (in the 5-6th gear) I have a degree in Avionics technology and as such know that dielectric grease (Silicon based) is not a conductor and may interfere with the flow of current through a connection. If "fretting" is the problem then that would indicate a solder connection on the board is the problem. Usually that is caused by a poor clean up of flux after the solder operation is completed The best way to handle the problem is clean, well as possible, the pins/connector in question with alcohol or a good anti corrision cleaner I recommend a non flourine based relay contact cleaner. Then reseat connector and hope for the best. Resoldering will present it's own complications.
Applying gease to a connector junction may help seal the connection form atmosphere but is not a long term fix. I found this quote from the internet.
While the indicated use of dielectric grease calls for it to be used only on the non-metal parts of a connection, it has been shown to be effective at preventing corrosion when applied directly to the metal connectors as well. Care should be taken when using it in this way, because this application can, in some instances, cause the connection to stop working. A common reason for such a failure is that the grease has not been pushed entirely out of the way between the two points of contact.
I pretty much agree with the statement.
But I think that if it works for a year or two I will be happy.
yes a 4 cyl, thanks for the infoI have a 2011 with 3.6L V6.
I get the Service Traction warning and ESC Off message and never get them together with a CEL. I can almost 100% of the time generate the 2 messages by simply turning the steering wheel. A year ago I replaced the front wheel bearings believing that it might be the VSS (veh speed sensors) that also serve as the ABS sensors. Nope.
The 2 codes you got might be why they recommend the injector harness service. Is yours a 4-cylinder engine? If so, there have been TSBs about the harness near the coil packs needing to be moved and/or shielded plus a ground wire added for the coil packs. What happens is the EPS (electronic power steering) draws so much power that it causes the alternator to charge very strongly. The power passes by the coils and can induce a current in them, causing a misfire. Also, they can misfire and cause an induced current in the EPS that makes it twitch or do other funny stuff. My V6 has hydraulic PS so it doesn't have this issue.
Get them to provide more information on why they recommend the service. You, after all, are the one who is in control of your wallet. Don't go easily into the dark night of misguided advice on services that aren't needed or are completely wrong.