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The Service dept. at Seaview In Lynnwood didn't find anything conclusive in the codes so they relearned the brake pedal. Same thing happened the next 2 mornings on the way to work. Didn't happen on the way home though. I hate intermittant problems. Left the car overnight pick it up today hopefully. i did noticed a down shift as the ECS light came on and the cruise kicked off. Thanks for the note Tricia
I'm guessing their next attempt at a fix will be putting dielectric silicone gel on the BCM connector.
 

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Well that's what they did, Dielectric grease on the Body Control Module connector. I'm thinking the service manager heard that I mentioned something here and looked or he came across the bulletin himself.
The trip home and the trip in the morning it didn't kick off. I am hopeful that fixes the problem.
I was expecting a much more expensive result per my experience elsewhere. Intermittent problems can be such a headache for everyone involved. But to my surprise this problem was handled quickly and with the minimum amount of pain for all involved. If it stays fixed for awhile I'll be happy.
Please let us know if that problem returns. We are trying to establish how effective that repair is in the long term. Connector corrosion seems to be affecting a lot of our cars.
 

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As an unanticipated spin off I believe the transmission is shifting less on going up hills. It was shifting up and down a whole lot before the connector reseat. (in the 5-6th gear) I have a degree in Avionics technology and as such know that dielectric grease (Silicon based) is not a conductor and may interfere with the flow of current through a connection. If "fretting" is the problem then that would indicate a solder connection on the board is the problem. Usually that is caused by a poor clean up of flux after the solder operation is completed The best way to handle the problem is clean, well as possible, the pins/connector in question with alcohol or a good anti corrision cleaner I recommend a non flourine based relay contact cleaner. Then reseat connector and hope for the best. Resoldering will present it's own complications.
Applying gease to a connector junction may help seal the connection form atmosphere but is not a long term fix. I found this quote from the internet.
While the indicated use of dielectric grease calls for it to be used only on the non-metal parts of a connection, it has been shown to be effective at preventing corrosion when applied directly to the metal connectors as well. Care should be taken when using it in this way, because this application can, in some instances, cause the connection to stop working. A common reason for such a failure is that the grease has not been pushed entirely out of the way between the two points of contact.
I pretty much agree with the statement.
But I think that if it works for a year or two I will be happy.
Fretting corrosion is caused by microscopic movement relative to the connector's conductor surfaces. I have been using dielectric silicone on car electrical connections for several years now & have never been made aware that's it has produced a high resistance connection. I understand that it's a bit counter-intuitive to use an electrically insulating lubricant. Nevertheless, it works for me (& GM I guess).

This explains it much better than I ever could:

http://connectors.delphi.com/dcsgdmcs/Del/attachments/Promotions/fretting.pdf
 
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