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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a no crank no start condition on my 2007 Malibu.
-new touchscreen radio installed.
-started fine for a week after install.
-condition occurred day after car wash but did still start multiple times that night and next day after washing it in the touch less car wash with underbody wash.
-Wisconsin car.
-garage kept but driving temps are in the 30s.
-new/good battery.
-starter cranks when I jump the relay.
-12.7v at starter and battery.

I did have an issue with the radio not working when I got the wrong aftermarket steering wheel control module. Once I changed this, it worked fine.

Last night it didn’t want to start when I left work. then moved the shifter and it started.

I then drive to Stevens point Wisconsin from Wausau(35miles) that night and would not start after I got out of a gas station. Tried to duplicate the Shift sequence and this didn’t help this time.

Could the key/transponder be bad?
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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If there is any water that got into any plugs, when it freezes it gets larger and can force things apart.

It sounds a lot like the fusebox relay for the starter is having an issue. Try swapping it with a known good one, such as the AC relay or one of the fan relays.
 

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I too would suspect the fuse box. If key was an issue the security light would be lit up on the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If there is any water that got into any plugs, when it freezes it gets larger and can force things apart.

It sounds a lot like the fusebox relay for the starter is having an issue. Try swapping it with a known good one, such as the AC relay or one of the fan relays.
Thank you. I did swap with other relays and jumped the pins on the starter relay to engage the starter. The starter did crank at that point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I too would suspect the fuse box. If key was an issue the security light would be lit up on the dash.
something I forgot to mention was that on the dash cluster when I lock the doors with the button on the door it will flash the lock and car key illumination light but that goes out and there’s never giving me any issues. I plugged the factory radio back in last night and tried to crank it that way and nothing. Also the factory radio shows no information as far as a security issue. The stereo works and the aftermarket radio worked as well. Is there anything in that circuit for the BCM that might affect a no start no crank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I too would suspect the fuse box. If key was an issue the security light would be lit up on the dash.
starter changed due to being the original with 200k on it. Thought it might be an intermittent issue. No change.
now after turning the key, I notice a message that says error below the PRNDL indicator. I didn’t think it had anything to do with the issue but now that I think of it right after I got this car a couple months ago I took it to the Chevy dealer for a recall and they changed a bracket for the shift cable and install the new shift cable but no spark switch. When I pull on the bracket for the part switch it does move forward like it has more room to go but it falls back to where it was sitting in park. When I have somebody come over to my garage I will have them hold the parking lever all the way over to make sure it’s fully engaged in the park position. Is there a way to adjust the parking cable for more slack??? Does this error message mean that it’s not seeing what gear it’s in? The air message only happens after I shift the gear. Maybe it went out of range when I played with it. Please help. I really hope I’m getting onto something here.
 

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Have you scanned it for codes? That is step #1, any stored codes will help diagnosing it. Especially with an error message.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I recently change the radio in my car and that works just fine and then about a week later I took it through a car wash and this happened. I drove my car about 40 miles and turned it off and then it wouldn’t start. I left it sit for a couple hours and came back and then it started up. I also have a U0101 code for loss of communication to the transmission module. Please don’t quote me because I believe that’s correct. The only thing that I believe could have happened is the fact that two of the green wires for the stereo were serial data communication lines with a 10 V reference signal. I did not get the wire schematic for what is 10 V wires actually give or search for data on. Other variables include the temperature dropping pretty low in northern Wisconsin. I also had a piece of exhaust Waldron and I would assume that they were smart enough to unhook the battery when doing it. I also had the Chevy dealer do a recall on my transmission shift cable. I was wondering if it had something to do with you PRNDL Switch located just under the ABS unit under on top of the trans under the hood. I thought of and checked for 1 million different things. I’ve gone through everything from checking relays to all of the fuses in the trunk, near the kick panel on the passenger side under the center consul, I’ve also checked all the fuses near the computer under the hood. I have some corrosion on the 80 amp fuse for the power steering. This can be slightly confusing due to the fact that the power steering fuse doesn’t look like any of the other fuses. It’s actually two wires that connect together via a large electrical crimp next to the fuse box and also attached to the fuse box. I have not taken these wires off and clean them and tried putting them back together yet. After my car died the first time, it started up again immediately and then after it died the second time it hasn’t started again. I checked pins four and 16 on the diagnostic connector and it showed about 60 ohms. According to some YouTube genius this meant that the control module communication was good on that circuit. I have about 12 V on my battery which I believe it’s actually 11.9 and should be enough to actually crank the car. There is a used alternator in this car just for the information of knowing that it’s a used alternator but a new battery. I’ve recently done a tuneup on the car changing the spark plug wires call pack and plugs. I did notice that there was some damaged wire conduit around the cluster of wires that Rob on the side of a coolant line coming out of the firewall directly under the intake/throttlebody. I will look further into this and correct those wire connections if needed. The most important variable I believe is me washing the car just a day or two before having this issue and then the temperature dropping so low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I scanned for codes tonight and there were two codes. One code was a U0101 transmission communication code. The other code was a P1682 code for ignition 1 switch circuit 2. I cleared the codes and turn the ignition back on and tried starting it for shits and giggles but still…NC/NS.

I scan for codes again and the only code that came back was U0101 transmission communication failure code. On the dash underneath the PRNDL it is displaying the mileage and then going to a message saying “error”. I have read similar posts about people having that error code underneath the PRNDL and having that same code relate to a transmission control module.

I’m will assume that the code for the P1682 was probably just a error code from taking one of the fuse out and checking it.
 

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What is P1682 CHEVROLET code meaning?
There are 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits supplied to the Engine Control Module (ECM). The first ignition circuit is provided by the powertrain relay, through a fuse. This ignition 1 voltage circuit supplies power to all the internal ECM circuits associated with the throttle actuator control (TAC) operation. The second ignition 1 voltage circuit is supplied by the run/crank relay through a fuse, and is used to power the remaining internal ECM circuits. If the ECM detects a voltage difference between the 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits, DTC P1682 will set.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I believe this answered my question. Now… do you know a good way to explain the two dark green 10v signal wires on the radio circuit? This almost sounds like what you are describing. I guess I could take some time and try to get a wire schematic for the BCM to see exactly what the wires go to after it leaves the radio circuit.
 
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